Worldway

Just curious, why would you want straight deadeyes if you're trying to produce an accurate model?  As Tom stated they all have different tension on them therefore they would never be in a perfect line.  In my opinion (as novice as it is) wouldn't it be easier and more accurate to just install the deadeyes "freehand"?
 

 
I truly hope BetaQDave doesn't mind me borrowing his picture

Mind if I ask if there is a problem with your NRG number showing? 

I like the rat lines.  It's a good reminder to keep an eye on spacing / scale.  Rework is all part of the game.  You're doing an amazing job.

Had to get some yard work done. Cut the grass. Install a new 1000 litre tote box/ rain water collector for the garden. Move three yards of mulch.
My shop needs cleaning and the wife's new out door dory wooden flower pot is cut, steamed and bent and sitting on the bench for more than a week now waiting to be assembled so she can paint it.
But the sun was out... raining buckets today.
 
Got my crutches/oar lock pockets cut into the washstrakes using files and mini chisels.
Rudder installed with blackened paper gudgeons and pintles.
Tiller made and installed.
Just the sweeps/oars left to do. I've got all pertinent dimensions and am ready to move... but I better get the dory done first.

The tiller is a black jewellery wire dabbed in Weldbond PVA glue to create the balled end.  When dry this was painted black with acrylic paint.
This was cut to length and glued to the rudder.
 
The rudder is mounted to the boat with blackened paper bands and jewellery wire pins.
The fastener heads on the bands are simulated with dabs of Weldbond PVA glue using a fine point straight pin.
The glue goes on white but dries crystal clear so it seems to be black as the paper under it is black.

 

I agree with Bruce but will it look out of place with the rest of the model?   Sweet looking boat.

I was wondering if anyone uses hide glue or Old Brown Glue and what their opinion is of it.  I did do a forum search on the topic and found a couple of older discussions but nothing current.
 
I see that it is a reversible glue in the sense that parts can be unglued using heat and water.  I thought that might be a benefit to someone like me who tends to do a lot of rework.
 
I know there is a downside to hide glue, whereby it has to be heated.  Apparently, and correct me if I’m wrong, Old Brown Glue is basically a hide glue that doesn’t need to be preheated.  I also read that hide glue tends to shrink when drying effectively pulling the parts together tighter.
 
Just wondering if this might be something worth considering.

I made my quarter deck counter beam (twice) and installed it (once).
Working on my short clamps to install the aft portion of the upper deck clamps so I can then make and install that deck counter beam.
Meanwhile I have been slowly adding frame timbers to my small boat....

and I modelled, 3D printed and painted a nameplate for the model.
It is in 3 parts. The main piece with image, a bevelled stand for it, and a ribbon.

After cleaning the pieces up (scraping away stringers and sanding) I shaped the figure by chiselling away the corners, sanding again, cutting in the mane and tail hair, and I added raised details with well placed drops of Weldbond on the wings to give more definition.
 
Then I added the javelin and it's head. They are made of bamboo and lift away from the base plate to give more interest. The head is glued to the shaft. These parts were too small for my filament printer. I used a PLA/Wood mix filament.

I chose the transom painting scheme for the main part with the lettering in gold. The ribbon in cherry red with white lettering.
Bellerophon himself is the only part unpainted but his helmet is gold with a white plume and his cloak red.
Now if I decide to take the model to either of the two local events to show this summer I have a nameplate.

Started today working on the fore gaff.  The kit comes with laser cut jaws.  I used the material originally supplied to assemble the dories as shims to center the jaw on the gaff.  Once assembled, I set this aside to let the glue dry.
 

 
I wanted to finish the bowsprit, or at least paint it and install it so I could eventually install the traveler block.   I originally installed the two strips of wood on either side of the center line of the bowsprit but was unhappy with how it turned out so I removed them and tried again.  In removing them, I did a little damage but I think I cleaned it up OK.  I contemplated scrapping and starting over again but decided it wasn't necessary.
 

 
While studying the drawings I discovered that I had yet to install the deadeyes on the ship's rails.  So I wrapped them in the 0.014" dia wire.  It was a little fiddly but went pretty well non the less.
 

 
I had some issues drilling holes and installing them properly.  I purchased a set of micro drill bits off Amazon and found "a deal".  However, they weren't the best quality and they broke pretty quickly.  So I started drilling with the correct size, broke it, switched to another size, broke it, etc. etc.  Also, because I hadn't installed the main rail and monkey rail with the accuracy required, I couldn't install the deadeyes in the proper locations on the external edge.  As such, I'm not sure if I will add the metal straps below the deadeyes.  It won't align properly and think it would look worse instead of adding more realism to the finished model.
 

 
 

I thought I would shift focus and move on to sails for the time being.  I had a friend give me the patterns for his Bluenose sails but they weren't the correct scale. I also wasn't sure if the kit provided me with enough material to make the sails; considering I will likely have to remake a few of them as a learning exercise.  
 

 
I went to our local Fabric shop and picked up some material that was similar to the material provided in the kit.  I don't know if the material is to proper scale (thickness) but for now it will do.  I also picked up some tracing paper and started tracing out the sails.
 

 
I plan on photocopying the patterns before I attempt to use them.  I have a feeling the copies will be needed.
 
I have been loosely following Bob Hunt's practicum.  However, with the Bluenose he does not cover the sails.  His practicum is for a ship without sails.  His series of practicums increase in skill level as the builder moves from one practicum to the next.  With the Bluenose he didn't cover the sails as this practicum was designed for the beginner.  Luckily I do have a couple of articles on sail making and, of course, I got all the information at my fingertips on this forum. 

I thought I would shift focus and move on to sails for the time being.  I had a friend give me the patterns for his Bluenose sails but they weren't the correct scale. I also wasn't sure if the kit provided me with enough material to make the sails; considering I will likely have to remake a few of them as a learning exercise.  
 

 
I went to our local Fabric shop and picked up some material that was similar to the material provided in the kit.  I don't know if the material is to proper scale (thickness) but for now it will do.  I also picked up some tracing paper and started tracing out the sails.
 

 
I plan on photocopying the patterns before I attempt to use them.  I have a feeling the copies will be needed.
 
I have been loosely following Bob Hunt's practicum.  However, with the Bluenose he does not cover the sails.  His practicum is for a ship without sails.  His series of practicums increase in skill level as the builder moves from one practicum to the next.  With the Bluenose he didn't cover the sails as this practicum was designed for the beginner.  Luckily I do have a couple of articles on sail making and, of course, I got all the information at my fingertips on this forum. 

I thought I would shift focus and move on to sails for the time being.  I had a friend give me the patterns for his Bluenose sails but they weren't the correct scale. I also wasn't sure if the kit provided me with enough material to make the sails; considering I will likely have to remake a few of them as a learning exercise.  
 

 
I went to our local Fabric shop and picked up some material that was similar to the material provided in the kit.  I don't know if the material is to proper scale (thickness) but for now it will do.  I also picked up some tracing paper and started tracing out the sails.
 

 
I plan on photocopying the patterns before I attempt to use them.  I have a feeling the copies will be needed.
 
I have been loosely following Bob Hunt's practicum.  However, with the Bluenose he does not cover the sails.  His practicum is for a ship without sails.  His series of practicums increase in skill level as the builder moves from one practicum to the next.  With the Bluenose he didn't cover the sails as this practicum was designed for the beginner.  Luckily I do have a couple of articles on sail making and, of course, I got all the information at my fingertips on this forum. 

Slowly getting there. Installed two short outer counter timbers as seen in the photo below, two more slightly longer ones to go.
 
I also made and installed the roundhouse counter beam. I made it to size, assuring I didn't transpose the radii which is easier done then one would want to admit, and then I marked off and chiselled a groove on the inboard side for the deck planks. I measured up 5-1/2", the height of the roundhouse beams and marked that, then measure up 2-1/2", the height of the deck planks and marked that.  Used a micro chisel to cut out a trough between the scribed marks.
 
This is different from the way I had done all my scrap pieces.  The plan shows the piece as having a nose extension that the deck runs under. I found these to make the part fragile with the counter timber notches cut in. This time I decided to assume a deck beam was under the nose and the whole thing was a bit stronger for it.
 
I'll get those last two short counter timbers made and installed and then do the quarter deck and upper deck counter beams. Then cut out the quarter gallery doorways.

Started today working on the fore gaff.  The kit comes with laser cut jaws.  I used the material originally supplied to assemble the dories as shims to center the jaw on the gaff.  Once assembled, I set this aside to let the glue dry.
 

 
I wanted to finish the bowsprit, or at least paint it and install it so I could eventually install the traveler block.   I originally installed the two strips of wood on either side of the center line of the bowsprit but was unhappy with how it turned out so I removed them and tried again.  In removing them, I did a little damage but I think I cleaned it up OK.  I contemplated scrapping and starting over again but decided it wasn't necessary.
 

 
While studying the drawings I discovered that I had yet to install the deadeyes on the ship's rails.  So I wrapped them in the 0.014" dia wire.  It was a little fiddly but went pretty well non the less.
 

 
I had some issues drilling holes and installing them properly.  I purchased a set of micro drill bits off Amazon and found "a deal".  However, they weren't the best quality and they broke pretty quickly.  So I started drilling with the correct size, broke it, switched to another size, broke it, etc. etc.  Also, because I hadn't installed the main rail and monkey rail with the accuracy required, I couldn't install the deadeyes in the proper locations on the external edge.  As such, I'm not sure if I will add the metal straps below the deadeyes.  It won't align properly and think it would look worse instead of adding more realism to the finished model.
 

 
 

Started today working on the fore gaff.  The kit comes with laser cut jaws.  I used the material originally supplied to assemble the dories as shims to center the jaw on the gaff.  Once assembled, I set this aside to let the glue dry.
 

 
I wanted to finish the bowsprit, or at least paint it and install it so I could eventually install the traveler block.   I originally installed the two strips of wood on either side of the center line of the bowsprit but was unhappy with how it turned out so I removed them and tried again.  In removing them, I did a little damage but I think I cleaned it up OK.  I contemplated scrapping and starting over again but decided it wasn't necessary.
 

 
While studying the drawings I discovered that I had yet to install the deadeyes on the ship's rails.  So I wrapped them in the 0.014" dia wire.  It was a little fiddly but went pretty well non the less.
 

 
I had some issues drilling holes and installing them properly.  I purchased a set of micro drill bits off Amazon and found "a deal".  However, they weren't the best quality and they broke pretty quickly.  So I started drilling with the correct size, broke it, switched to another size, broke it, etc. etc.  Also, because I hadn't installed the main rail and monkey rail with the accuracy required, I couldn't install the deadeyes in the proper locations on the external edge.  As such, I'm not sure if I will add the metal straps below the deadeyes.  It won't align properly and think it would look worse instead of adding more realism to the finished model.
 

 
 

Started today working on the fore gaff.  The kit comes with laser cut jaws.  I used the material originally supplied to assemble the dories as shims to center the jaw on the gaff.  Once assembled, I set this aside to let the glue dry.
 

 
I wanted to finish the bowsprit, or at least paint it and install it so I could eventually install the traveler block.   I originally installed the two strips of wood on either side of the center line of the bowsprit but was unhappy with how it turned out so I removed them and tried again.  In removing them, I did a little damage but I think I cleaned it up OK.  I contemplated scrapping and starting over again but decided it wasn't necessary.
 

 
While studying the drawings I discovered that I had yet to install the deadeyes on the ship's rails.  So I wrapped them in the 0.014" dia wire.  It was a little fiddly but went pretty well non the less.
 

 
I had some issues drilling holes and installing them properly.  I purchased a set of micro drill bits off Amazon and found "a deal".  However, they weren't the best quality and they broke pretty quickly.  So I started drilling with the correct size, broke it, switched to another size, broke it, etc. etc.  Also, because I hadn't installed the main rail and monkey rail with the accuracy required, I couldn't install the deadeyes in the proper locations on the external edge.  As such, I'm not sure if I will add the metal straps below the deadeyes.  It won't align properly and think it would look worse instead of adding more realism to the finished model.
 

 
 

Started today working on the fore gaff.  The kit comes with laser cut jaws.  I used the material originally supplied to assemble the dories as shims to center the jaw on the gaff.  Once assembled, I set this aside to let the glue dry.
 

 
I wanted to finish the bowsprit, or at least paint it and install it so I could eventually install the traveler block.   I originally installed the two strips of wood on either side of the center line of the bowsprit but was unhappy with how it turned out so I removed them and tried again.  In removing them, I did a little damage but I think I cleaned it up OK.  I contemplated scrapping and starting over again but decided it wasn't necessary.
 

 
While studying the drawings I discovered that I had yet to install the deadeyes on the ship's rails.  So I wrapped them in the 0.014" dia wire.  It was a little fiddly but went pretty well non the less.
 

 
I had some issues drilling holes and installing them properly.  I purchased a set of micro drill bits off Amazon and found "a deal".  However, they weren't the best quality and they broke pretty quickly.  So I started drilling with the correct size, broke it, switched to another size, broke it, etc. etc.  Also, because I hadn't installed the main rail and monkey rail with the accuracy required, I couldn't install the deadeyes in the proper locations on the external edge.  As such, I'm not sure if I will add the metal straps below the deadeyes.  It won't align properly and think it would look worse instead of adding more realism to the finished model.
 

 
 

Today I finished up the main mast.
 
For the chafing piece for the boom jaws, I had a piece of brass tubing that I cut to length and slid on the mast.  
 

 
I installed the 4 chocks, cutting pieces out of 1/16" x 1/8" basswood.  I also made sure I installed the mast hoops first.  I found that the quantity of mast hoops I had didn't total the same quantity that shows on the drawing.  Not sure what to do, I simply divided the total quantity by 2 and used half on the main mast and will put the other half on the foremast.  Hopefully I can make it work from there.
 

 
The drawing shows a white band at the bottom of the mast called a Canvas Mast Coat.  I had some spare fabric and cut a strip to suit and glued it on.
 

 
I still haven't permanently installed the main mast.  Probably won't until all the masts, booms etc are done.
 

 
I think I will work on the bowsprit or the fore boom and gaff before tackling the foremast.

Today I finished up the main mast.
 
For the chafing piece for the boom jaws, I had a piece of brass tubing that I cut to length and slid on the mast.  
 

 
I installed the 4 chocks, cutting pieces out of 1/16" x 1/8" basswood.  I also made sure I installed the mast hoops first.  I found that the quantity of mast hoops I had didn't total the same quantity that shows on the drawing.  Not sure what to do, I simply divided the total quantity by 2 and used half on the main mast and will put the other half on the foremast.  Hopefully I can make it work from there.
 

 
The drawing shows a white band at the bottom of the mast called a Canvas Mast Coat.  I had some spare fabric and cut a strip to suit and glued it on.
 

 
I still haven't permanently installed the main mast.  Probably won't until all the masts, booms etc are done.
 

 
I think I will work on the bowsprit or the fore boom and gaff before tackling the foremast.

Today I finished up the main mast.
 
For the chafing piece for the boom jaws, I had a piece of brass tubing that I cut to length and slid on the mast.  
 

 
I installed the 4 chocks, cutting pieces out of 1/16" x 1/8" basswood.  I also made sure I installed the mast hoops first.  I found that the quantity of mast hoops I had didn't total the same quantity that shows on the drawing.  Not sure what to do, I simply divided the total quantity by 2 and used half on the main mast and will put the other half on the foremast.  Hopefully I can make it work from there.
 

 
The drawing shows a white band at the bottom of the mast called a Canvas Mast Coat.  I had some spare fabric and cut a strip to suit and glued it on.
 

 
I still haven't permanently installed the main mast.  Probably won't until all the masts, booms etc are done.
 

 
I think I will work on the bowsprit or the fore boom and gaff before tackling the foremast.

Today I finished up the main mast.
 
For the chafing piece for the boom jaws, I had a piece of brass tubing that I cut to length and slid on the mast.  
 

 
I installed the 4 chocks, cutting pieces out of 1/16" x 1/8" basswood.  I also made sure I installed the mast hoops first.  I found that the quantity of mast hoops I had didn't total the same quantity that shows on the drawing.  Not sure what to do, I simply divided the total quantity by 2 and used half on the main mast and will put the other half on the foremast.  Hopefully I can make it work from there.
 

 
The drawing shows a white band at the bottom of the mast called a Canvas Mast Coat.  I had some spare fabric and cut a strip to suit and glued it on.
 

 
I still haven't permanently installed the main mast.  Probably won't until all the masts, booms etc are done.
 

 
I think I will work on the bowsprit or the fore boom and gaff before tackling the foremast.

Hi Alan,
 
I'm not sure if the following will shed any light on your problem but I found this in my book The Anatomy Of Nelson's Ships.  I may be completely off base.  If so, please disregard.
 

It's been quite a while so I thought I would offer a brief update on the progress of my Bluenose.  I can say that progress has been very slow however I have not abandoned the project nor do I plan to.  I keep getting sidetracked but always seem to gravitate back to the shop, and I can say that my interest in ships and ship history hasn't diminished.  I have projects in mind that I would like to do in the future but am determined to finish the ones I have started and abandoned.  I have 3 other ships in the drydock that I would like to finish first before I tackle anything new.
 
At one point I thought about finishing the Bluenose without the sails but quickly decided that the sails are one of the recognizing features of the Bluenose.  I was fortunate enough to have a friend give me his patterns for the sails so should make that task a little easier.  
 
I have pretty much finished the deck complete with the 8 dories normally carried when she was used as a fishing vessel.  I've yet to lash them down.  The main mast is almost complete.  It's not permanently mounted yet but it's close.  I plan to start on the foremast shortly.  As previously reported, the dories and the crates/barrels are 3D printed.  Although not authentic, I think the crates/barrels add a little to the deck.  


 

 
 
I will still add to this build log as I progress.  I hope that I will post more often in the future and hopefully have the Bluenose complete in a timely manner.

It's been quite a while so I thought I would offer a brief update on the progress of my Bluenose.  I can say that progress has been very slow however I have not abandoned the project nor do I plan to.  I keep getting sidetracked but always seem to gravitate back to the shop, and I can say that my interest in ships and ship history hasn't diminished.  I have projects in mind that I would like to do in the future but am determined to finish the ones I have started and abandoned.  I have 3 other ships in the drydock that I would like to finish first before I tackle anything new.
 
At one point I thought about finishing the Bluenose without the sails but quickly decided that the sails are one of the recognizing features of the Bluenose.  I was fortunate enough to have a friend give me his patterns for the sails so should make that task a little easier.  
 
I have pretty much finished the deck complete with the 8 dories normally carried when she was used as a fishing vessel.  I've yet to lash them down.  The main mast is almost complete.  It's not permanently mounted yet but it's close.  I plan to start on the foremast shortly.  As previously reported, the dories and the crates/barrels are 3D printed.  Although not authentic, I think the crates/barrels add a little to the deck.  


 

 
 
I will still add to this build log as I progress.  I hope that I will post more often in the future and hopefully have the Bluenose complete in a timely manner.

It's been quite a while so I thought I would offer a brief update on the progress of my Bluenose.  I can say that progress has been very slow however I have not abandoned the project nor do I plan to.  I keep getting sidetracked but always seem to gravitate back to the shop, and I can say that my interest in ships and ship history hasn't diminished.  I have projects in mind that I would like to do in the future but am determined to finish the ones I have started and abandoned.  I have 3 other ships in the drydock that I would like to finish first before I tackle anything new.
 
At one point I thought about finishing the Bluenose without the sails but quickly decided that the sails are one of the recognizing features of the Bluenose.  I was fortunate enough to have a friend give me his patterns for the sails so should make that task a little easier.  
 
I have pretty much finished the deck complete with the 8 dories normally carried when she was used as a fishing vessel.  I've yet to lash them down.  The main mast is almost complete.  It's not permanently mounted yet but it's close.  I plan to start on the foremast shortly.  As previously reported, the dories and the crates/barrels are 3D printed.  Although not authentic, I think the crates/barrels add a little to the deck.  


 

 
 
I will still add to this build log as I progress.  I hope that I will post more often in the future and hopefully have the Bluenose complete in a timely manner.

It's been quite a while so I thought I would offer a brief update on the progress of my Bluenose.  I can say that progress has been very slow however I have not abandoned the project nor do I plan to.  I keep getting sidetracked but always seem to gravitate back to the shop, and I can say that my interest in ships and ship history hasn't diminished.  I have projects in mind that I would like to do in the future but am determined to finish the ones I have started and abandoned.  I have 3 other ships in the drydock that I would like to finish first before I tackle anything new.
 
At one point I thought about finishing the Bluenose without the sails but quickly decided that the sails are one of the recognizing features of the Bluenose.  I was fortunate enough to have a friend give me his patterns for the sails so should make that task a little easier.  
 
I have pretty much finished the deck complete with the 8 dories normally carried when she was used as a fishing vessel.  I've yet to lash them down.  The main mast is almost complete.  It's not permanently mounted yet but it's close.  I plan to start on the foremast shortly.  As previously reported, the dories and the crates/barrels are 3D printed.  Although not authentic, I think the crates/barrels add a little to the deck.  


 

 
 
I will still add to this build log as I progress.  I hope that I will post more often in the future and hopefully have the Bluenose complete in a timely manner.