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About Worldway

  • Birthday 10/30/1963

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  • Gender
  • Location
    : Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Driving my wife nuts. She suggested I get a hobby.

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  1. Personally, I wouldn't use a crimp type bender. Building this model was my first and I had a lot of trial and error. In the end, I ended up soaking the wood and bending with a curling iron. I have one that runs off butane so it doesn't need to be plugged in. I also found that once you soak the wood and bend it using heat, it's usually dry enough to install right away.
  2. No pictures tonight, but I finished the keel assembly and transferred the plank run and port position marks to the opposite side of the bulkheads. To do this I used miniature screw clamps. I lined up one side on the line then retraced the line on the other side of the bulkhead. One question I had, is that when I finished the head knee assembly, I finished it with wipe on poly. Now I have the keel assembly done and sanding has meant that I sanded into the head knee assembly. So, should I be using wipe on poly at this stage or wait and apply it at a much later date. Is there an
  3. So, I ran into another problem and I was going to PM Chuck with this to get his opinion but I thought this forum is the best place to let people know what not to do. The biggest what no to do is to not pay close attention to the monograph. Read and re-read until you are familiar with all steps. As with my last post above, I omitted adding the keel which I fixed tonight. However, reading through the monograph again I noticed a very important piece of information. It states "When installing the bulkheads I made sure that the laser etched reference marks were facing the
  4. Today I decided to re-read Chuck's monograph to make sure I am on the right track. I realized I forgot an important step. I didn't finish installing the keel. So I started to install it but had some dimensional issues. If you look at the pictures, the length of the keel doesn't add up, however, if I look at each of the 4 sections, they match the drawing precisely, length wise. I don't know how the dimensions are off and can't figure it out. I've looked at a few of the other build logs and haven't seen anyone else with the same problem. If someone could suggest a f
  5. Just curious about the blades. Could we not simply purchase them from Jim Byrnes on his website? I know we are all looking for after market blades but maybe the best bet is Jim himself. I certainly can't find a supplier easily in Canada.
  6. It's been quite some time since my last post. Luckily, I've had the false keel lying on a flat surface. Time seems to have removed any warpage or bending that I previously had. I attached the Knee of the Head to the false keel. Unfortunately, with a lot of sanding and clamping I still ended up with a gap. I'm hoping this can be covered up later in the build when I do the planking. I assembled the brackets and attached them to my build board to support the false keel. Next, I dry fitted the bulkheads to ensure a nice tight fit. I'm in the
  7. If I remember correctly, the fence tapers 0.005" from the blade to the back of the saw.
  8. Well, after a bunch of sanding, I still have more to do but I'm getting closer. I bought an electric hand held belt sander with a 1/2" wide belt. It helps and removes a lot of wood fast although it's butchering the plywood bulkheads. I will do more hand sanding to achieve the final results. I'may be at this for a while longer.
  9. I have warpage in the false keel. I'm not too concerned. I will add additional brackets when I assemble my building board. I'm thinking 6 per side. Hopefully that should correct the problem.
  10. I finished with the head knee assembly. I tapered as per the instructions and even managed to smooth the edges on the bobstay holes and gammon slot although it's not very visible.
  11. So here is the sorta final assembly. I still have to taper the edges and put a finish on it. I'm thinking of a wipe on poly. I have also decided not to paint at all. I'm not into historically completely accurate ships, honestly I hate painting and I think a natural wood finish looks better. I figure I will enjoy this more if I don't have to worry about painting.
  12. I started the head knee assembly and thought I would break it down to a few sub assemblies. I figured this would give me a tighter joint. The practicum recommends the use of Titebond II glue and no removal of the laser char. I ended up getting Titebond III and have not removed any char. I hope I end up with a good tight strong joint. (BTW, I've had problems finding Titebond II at the usual places. But my wife found Titebond III tonight at another hardware store. It's supposed to be better and stronger.)
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