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About Worldway

  • Birthday 10/30/1963

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  • Location
    : Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Driving my wife nuts. She suggested I get a hobby.

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  1. I hate to break it to you Per but I also have the S21 Ultra and it's getting old.😁 Actually it is a really nice phone and the camera is very good on it.
  2. Thanks Per. I pick up the printer on Saturday and will spend the better part of the weekend getting familiar with it. I'm looking forward to using it. I plan on also downloading Fusion 360 so I can develop my own files (hopefully). If I can master this fast enough I may go back in my Bluenose build and 3D print some of the Britannia fittings which didn't turn out so well and reinstall them.
  3. Alan, according to the library's web site they use PLA plastic filament (Polylactic Acid). It's quite rigid. The detail wasn't too bad and was good enough for what I needed. As a side note, I broke down and bought a 3D printer. I ended up buying the Creality Ender 3 2V. I looked at resin printers but figured I would get more use out of a filament printer as I wanted it for a lot more than just modelling. Plus I don't have to deal with possibly dangerous chemicals. We'll have to talk some day soon so I can see what your 3D printing experience has been like and perhaps compare notes. Luckily, our IT department at work has a printer and has offered to help me plus there is a lady at work who uses one extensively in a side business she has and has also offered to help me. David, I happened upon the library's website and noticed they did 3D printing so I thought it might be a good solution. Like you, I hated trying to put the dories together and eventually I gave up with a pile of scrap. I wasn't going to add the dories to the Bluenose until I saw the library's site. I found a file on Thingiverse which I rescaled and emailed to the library. I had no idea if I was sending them the correct file or if the scale would show up correctly or if I nested the duplicates properly. I talked with one librarian who runs the printer and she looked at everything I sent her and told me it was fine. I was happy with the results. I had a quick look at the website you suggested and will definitely be spending more time there, not just for the sails but for other build aspects as well. As far as sails go, I met up with Alan a few weeks ago and he was showing me a sail he made with silk span and I was very impressed with the results. So I'll be experimenting with it as well. So many options. John, I'll be happy to help as much as I can as I'm sure anyone on MSW would. However, I'm a beginner and am learning as I go as this is only the second build I've done.
  4. I solved my Dory problem. I downloaded a file from Thingyverse, rescaled it, emailed it to my local library and had them 3D printed. For the $3.50 it cost I would say well worth it. I need 8 for the Bluenose but ended up with 10. It gives me two to play around with. There will be two stacks of 4 each. Only the top of each stack will need to be detailed. I'll work on that over the next bit. First up is to remove all the flashing and clean them up a bit.
  5. Hi Peter, welcome to MSW. I grew up in Trenton so I am familiar with your neck of the woods.
  6. I have had an order in with SIG for about a month now. When I placed the order they told me that their silkspan is on backorder and would be about 4 weeks before they had more and asked me if I wanted to cancel the order or keep it on backorder. I decided to keep it on backorder and am expecting it any day now.
  7. Thanks for the information Alan and Bob, it proved to be very helpful. One thing I did to guide me along was to label the foremast with port/starboard/aft. It helped me to ensure I had the correct orientation with the mast. Also I found the tenon at the base of the mast very useful in aligning or indexing the mast as required. I cut the mast to length then tapered as required along the port/starboard/aft side. I found that by cutting the length of the dowel down to size and tapering 3 sides I virtually removed all warpage I have. I then cut out for the cheeks and trestle trees. I again used my guide blocks to limit the depth of cut and to index the mast. After installing the cheeks and trestle trees I installed the halliards, making sure they were tapered per the drawing. After that I installed the halliard bands. I used brass strips that came in the kit and cut them to length (circumference). I drilled a hole for the eyebolt, installed it with the band and secured it with glue. I made a lot of progress this weekend and am relatively happy with the results. I realize there are some areas where I wished I had taken a different approach. One big regret I have is not darkening the eyebolts on the deck furniture and rails. I have a darkening agent which would have made it simple. I probably should have darkened the brass bands and eyebolts on the foremast as well. I think I'll spend the next few days trying to understand the drawings better and get a better understanding of the components that goes into the masts, booms etc. I was feeling a little overwhelmed (information overload) this afternoon and need to take a step back to review. I want to compare my Practicum with the drawings to understand where I'm going and the steps that need to be taken.
  8. This could start to get very interesting. The practicum I'm using for guidance doesn't do the rigging for sails. The thought being is that the practicum is based on a beginner level and adding sails only complicates things. However, I really want sails. Therefore, I have a challenging journey ahead of me and will be using this forum for guidance as I go. I did start by taking a length of 5/16" dowel and cut the base to form a 5/16" x 3/16" tenon on one end. I got the idea of using a 1/4" sized block as a saw guide knowing if I cut down to the block I would be cutting down 1/16". I then used my X-Acto chisel to remove the waste Once the one side was complete, I shimmed it using a 1/16" spacer block to assure myself that I was cutting 180 degrees from the previous and repeated the process. Nice tight fit However, I noticed that I have a slight warp in the dowel. It won't be as bad when I cut it down to length however I still want the warp removed. Is there an easy way to remove a minor warp? Also, the drawings says to taper the mast on the aft side & P/S. What does that mean or refer to??
  9. I spent the last two days painting and finishing the deck details. I also attached all the eye bolts and belaying pins. I haven't installed the dory kids yet because I'm still undecided if I will have the dories or not. Also, I didn't spend as much time as perhaps I should have on the windlass. The plans show wooden wedges installed but I thought, for simplicity, I would simply paint the windlass. One problem I encountered was with the cathead. The cast piece was very fragile and broke apart. Even if it hadn't it may have been too brittle to use anyway. Perhaps the blackening process weakened the fitting. I'll have to come up with some other way of duplicating it. It's been a lot of tedious work and has been a long time in the making. The next steps are onward and upward. I'm looking forward to the masts and rigging although I tend to think that it will be quite tedious as well. This is my first attempt at rigging a ship so I hope it goes well for me.
  10. Disaster struck, and it's likely not what you're thinking, it's even worse. I have a small shop and my workbench is at a height for standing while using. A while back the admiral bought me a higher than normal chair so I could sit at the bench. Excellent to have, one problem thought. I'm not a tall man, only 5' 6". In order to get in the chair I actually have to use a small foot stool to boost myself up with. Once settled, it always seems I have to get up to grab something anyway so the chair was becoming more of an annoyance than a luxury. However, today I was doing a lot of bench work and was happily using my chair. In order to minimize the amount I had to come down off it, I moved a portable workstation closer to the chair. It's where I set out a couple of drawings and the instructions and other things I could refer to when needed. It's also where I store my Byrnes table saw. After dinner I wanted to go down to the shop to get a few more things done. I went to prop myself up in the chair and lost my balance. I fell slightly backwards, stumbling, unable to get my footing and I inadvertently pushed the portable workstation over. Of course, everything fell off the table on onto our cement floor, including my Byrnes saw. I was devastated. I didn't care about anything else that fell, just the saw. I immediately picked it up, set it on the bench and started to assess the damage. The most obvious was the fence. But as I looked closer at things I noticed that the brass knurled nut on the fence slide wouldn't turn. I removed the assembly and couldn't see any obvious signs of damage but the screw is probably bent and will need to be replaced. I had one of the screws holding the table down break off. It will have to be removed and replaced. I also found another screw lying on the ground which broke off somewhere but for the life of me can't find where it came from. From what I can tell that was the extent of the damage. I've emailed Jim to get an idea of parts replacement costs, hoping I can replace a few parts and it will be good as new again. If I lived closer I would likely sent the complete saw back to him to be rebuilt properly. The worst part is, this saw hasn't been used a great deal. I bought it with a thought that one day I would like to try my hand at scratch building and have slowly been amassing tools and equipment to do that. I would hate to have significant damage on a saw that I've yet to truly enjoy. But having said that, for the tumble it took, it came out pretty unscathed. Here's hoping Jim will be able to send me what I need and I'll be able to make the saw new again.
  11. Just a bit of an update. Tomorrow I'm hoping to start painting the deck furniture. I spent time today finishing last minute details and getting acquainted with my airbrush. I've never used an airbrush so spent time watching videos on use and care. One (or two) things I did was make my own batch of air brush cleaner and acrylic paint thinner. Very simple to make with easy to get, inexpensive ingredients. I put the bottles in a larger plastic pail as I they contain liquid with isopropyl alcohol and I'm not sure if it will react with the plastic bottles I have them in. In case there is a leak the larger bucket will contain the liquid. I also bought a package of alligator clips mounted on wires. I'm hoping they will work well holding the objects as I airbrush them. I then drilled holes in a 2 x 6 to hold the clips while the paint dries. I painted the cap rail and am in the process of forming the monkey rail base. I used the leftover after removing the monkey rail from the laser cut sheet in order to form the monkey rail base curve for the taffrail. I soaked the strip wood for 15 minutes before forming it but it still crimped in spots around the tight curve. Hopefully, if everything goes as planned, I'll be reporting on a successful paint job tomorrow.
  12. Getting close to finishing the deck furniture. The hoisting engine box is almost completed. I just have to add the clutch cover box. I will build this bit out of a solid piece of wood. I've glued up some wood and am waiting for it to dry prior to completing that part. I glued up the arms of the jumbo boom crutch. Finally this afternoon I completed the samson post, bowsprit bits and platform I'm hoping to be in position next week to break out the air brush. I want to paint the deck furniture and the main rail. Hopefully after that I will be in a position to finish the monkey rail and permanently install the deck furniture.
  13. Thanks Allan, Yes, I am referring to the original Bluenose. One source I have is from Wikipedia which states: " Bluenose, being a Lunenburg schooner, used the dory trawl method. Lunenburg schooners carried eight dories, each manned by two members of the crew, called dorymen." I will do a bit of further investigation to see if I can find any additional detail.
  14. Just a curious question. All pictures I can find of the Bluenose don't show any kind of cover over the dories even though they are stored upright. The Bluenose typically had 8 dories, stacked in 2 groups of 4. I would have thought they would get filled with water without a covering. Are my assumptions wrong?
  15. I just finished the skylight and started to work on the companionway. Again, I figure this would be easier to build if I started with a solid piece of wood. I found some scraps and glued them together to get the desired width I needed. Once completed I will still have to fabricate the Hoisting Engine Box and the Clutch Cover Box. I think after that things will get a little tricky with the Jumbo Boom Crutch and Hoisting Machinery Support and the Windlass. The Britannia fittings that come in the kit aren't the best but I'll have to work with them. I did order some Pewter Black from Blue Jacket Shipcrafters. It does a good job at blackening the Britannia fittings. Once I finish up with the deck furniture and gear I will then paint everything. I haven't decided on colours or how much I will paint. I'm not too interested in staying true to the original Bluenose colours and colour detail. That would mean more detail than I care to get into. I will hopefully find a compromise that will still be appealing to look at and will be somewhat close to original. Meeting with Alan and taking into consideration what Bob mentioned above, I've ordered some silkspan and will experiment with it over the next few months to see if I can produce decent looking sails. If not, I'll revert back to the material that came with the kit. As far as the heavier material I bought recently, perhaps I can make a shop apron or something similar from it. It's definitely too heavy to be used as sails. As you can now see, things have progressed nicely the last little while. She's starting to take shape.
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