tlevine

The outboard edges of the transom planks are protected by a black decorative strip.  This was carried down across the bottom of the transom to seal the junction of the transom and counter.  This was done with one piece of basswood that had been wet and then slowly bent to the required shape.  Finally, the taffrail was installed.


The hull is now completed.  At this point one could add treenails but I have chosen not to...maybe some day.  I was asked about ports by one of our members.  If one were to install ports, it would be necessary to finish the inside of the hull, as this would be visible through the ports.  Although possible with the use of sanding discs, it would take a lot of effort to remove the frames.  Don't forget that these frames were selected for strength so the hull would be stable during construction.  There was never any thought that they might be trimmed/removed later.
 
The hull is finished with one coat of Watco's Danish Wood oil and then buffed with a cotton cloth.

The hull was removed from the building board by inserting a razor blade inserted between the hull and the paper pattern.  It is surprising how strong this hull is.  I do not plan on mounting her but if one wanted to I would suggest covering the open parts of the hull with a sheet of basswood, either left natural or painted black.
Here is the final result.  I hope this project will encourage some of you to take the plunge and plank your next hull the way it was originally done.

 
 

There are four rows of counter planks.  You can see that the upper counter plank extends beyond the counter.  This is to allow a good fit with the transom planking.  Remember that the lowest row of the bulwark planking was not trimmed so that it would protect the end of the counter planks.  And the lowest row of counter planking protects the ends of lower hull planks.  Everything is designed to prevent water penetration into the wood.  Later I will install a trim piece to protect the ends of the bulwark planks.  The aft end of the wale is now sanded down to blend into the counter planking.  After they were installed, the lowest bulwark plank was sanded to conform to the curvature of the counter.  

The wale has not received its first coat of dye.  I will eventually apply three coats.

The four rows of quarter deck bulwark planking are straight forward.

The transom has been planked and the junction between the counter and the transom planking as been cleaned up.

The easiest way to determine the shape of the cap rail is to lay a piece of paper along the top of the bulkheads and trace the outer edge of the planking onto the paper (black line).  I have chosen a rail width of six inches and have drawn a line three inches inboard and outboard from the traced line (red lines).  There is a significant curve in front of Frame 4a so I made the rail in two sections with a simple scarf joint at Frame 5.  It is drawn in blue ink on the picture below.

The shape of the quarter deck cap rail is determined the same way.  It is made in one piece.

For aesthetics I dyed the edge of the rails before installing them.  There is also a vertical piece at the break of the quarter deck which protects the ends of the quarter deck bulwark planks.  And here are the results.

 

The outboard edges of the transom planks are protected by a black decorative strip.  This was carried down across the bottom of the transom to seal the junction of the transom and counter.  This was done with one piece of basswood that had been wet and then slowly bent to the required shape.  Finally, the taffrail was installed.


The hull is now completed.  At this point one could add treenails but I have chosen not to...maybe some day.  I was asked about ports by one of our members.  If one were to install ports, it would be necessary to finish the inside of the hull, as this would be visible through the ports.  Although possible with the use of sanding discs, it would take a lot of effort to remove the frames.  Don't forget that these frames were selected for strength so the hull would be stable during construction.  There was never any thought that they might be trimmed/removed later.
 
The hull is finished with one coat of Watco's Danish Wood oil and then buffed with a cotton cloth.

The hull was removed from the building board by inserting a razor blade inserted between the hull and the paper pattern.  It is surprising how strong this hull is.  I do not plan on mounting her but if one wanted to I would suggest covering the open parts of the hull with a sheet of basswood, either left natural or painted black.
Here is the final result.  I hope this project will encourage some of you to take the plunge and plank your next hull the way it was originally done.

 
 

There are four rows of counter planks.  You can see that the upper counter plank extends beyond the counter.  This is to allow a good fit with the transom planking.  Remember that the lowest row of the bulwark planking was not trimmed so that it would protect the end of the counter planks.  And the lowest row of counter planking protects the ends of lower hull planks.  Everything is designed to prevent water penetration into the wood.  Later I will install a trim piece to protect the ends of the bulwark planks.  The aft end of the wale is now sanded down to blend into the counter planking.  After they were installed, the lowest bulwark plank was sanded to conform to the curvature of the counter.  

The wale has not received its first coat of dye.  I will eventually apply three coats.

The four rows of quarter deck bulwark planking are straight forward.

The transom has been planked and the junction between the counter and the transom planking as been cleaned up.

The easiest way to determine the shape of the cap rail is to lay a piece of paper along the top of the bulkheads and trace the outer edge of the planking onto the paper (black line).  I have chosen a rail width of six inches and have drawn a line three inches inboard and outboard from the traced line (red lines).  There is a significant curve in front of Frame 4a so I made the rail in two sections with a simple scarf joint at Frame 5.  It is drawn in blue ink on the picture below.

The shape of the quarter deck cap rail is determined the same way.  It is made in one piece.

For aesthetics I dyed the edge of the rails before installing them.  There is also a vertical piece at the break of the quarter deck which protects the ends of the quarter deck bulwark planks.  And here are the results.

 

The outboard edges of the transom planks are protected by a black decorative strip.  This was carried down across the bottom of the transom to seal the junction of the transom and counter.  This was done with one piece of basswood that had been wet and then slowly bent to the required shape.  Finally, the taffrail was installed.


The hull is now completed.  At this point one could add treenails but I have chosen not to...maybe some day.  I was asked about ports by one of our members.  If one were to install ports, it would be necessary to finish the inside of the hull, as this would be visible through the ports.  Although possible with the use of sanding discs, it would take a lot of effort to remove the frames.  Don't forget that these frames were selected for strength so the hull would be stable during construction.  There was never any thought that they might be trimmed/removed later.
 
The hull is finished with one coat of Watco's Danish Wood oil and then buffed with a cotton cloth.

The hull was removed from the building board by inserting a razor blade inserted between the hull and the paper pattern.  It is surprising how strong this hull is.  I do not plan on mounting her but if one wanted to I would suggest covering the open parts of the hull with a sheet of basswood, either left natural or painted black.
Here is the final result.  I hope this project will encourage some of you to take the plunge and plank your next hull the way it was originally done.

 
 

The outboard edges of the transom planks are protected by a black decorative strip.  This was carried down across the bottom of the transom to seal the junction of the transom and counter.  This was done with one piece of basswood that had been wet and then slowly bent to the required shape.  Finally, the taffrail was installed.


The hull is now completed.  At this point one could add treenails but I have chosen not to...maybe some day.  I was asked about ports by one of our members.  If one were to install ports, it would be necessary to finish the inside of the hull, as this would be visible through the ports.  Although possible with the use of sanding discs, it would take a lot of effort to remove the frames.  Don't forget that these frames were selected for strength so the hull would be stable during construction.  There was never any thought that they might be trimmed/removed later.
 
The hull is finished with one coat of Watco's Danish Wood oil and then buffed with a cotton cloth.

The hull was removed from the building board by inserting a razor blade inserted between the hull and the paper pattern.  It is surprising how strong this hull is.  I do not plan on mounting her but if one wanted to I would suggest covering the open parts of the hull with a sheet of basswood, either left natural or painted black.
Here is the final result.  I hope this project will encourage some of you to take the plunge and plank your next hull the way it was originally done.

 
 

The outboard edges of the transom planks are protected by a black decorative strip.  This was carried down across the bottom of the transom to seal the junction of the transom and counter.  This was done with one piece of basswood that had been wet and then slowly bent to the required shape.  Finally, the taffrail was installed.


The hull is now completed.  At this point one could add treenails but I have chosen not to...maybe some day.  I was asked about ports by one of our members.  If one were to install ports, it would be necessary to finish the inside of the hull, as this would be visible through the ports.  Although possible with the use of sanding discs, it would take a lot of effort to remove the frames.  Don't forget that these frames were selected for strength so the hull would be stable during construction.  There was never any thought that they might be trimmed/removed later.
 
The hull is finished with one coat of Watco's Danish Wood oil and then buffed with a cotton cloth.

The hull was removed from the building board by inserting a razor blade inserted between the hull and the paper pattern.  It is surprising how strong this hull is.  I do not plan on mounting her but if one wanted to I would suggest covering the open parts of the hull with a sheet of basswood, either left natural or painted black.
Here is the final result.  I hope this project will encourage some of you to take the plunge and plank your next hull the way it was originally done.

 
 

Many thanks Toni for de-demonizing planking. Lovely job, attractive model and simple steps.
Well done. 
Bruce 

The outboard edges of the transom planks are protected by a black decorative strip.  This was carried down across the bottom of the transom to seal the junction of the transom and counter.  This was done with one piece of basswood that had been wet and then slowly bent to the required shape.  Finally, the taffrail was installed.


The hull is now completed.  At this point one could add treenails but I have chosen not to...maybe some day.  I was asked about ports by one of our members.  If one were to install ports, it would be necessary to finish the inside of the hull, as this would be visible through the ports.  Although possible with the use of sanding discs, it would take a lot of effort to remove the frames.  Don't forget that these frames were selected for strength so the hull would be stable during construction.  There was never any thought that they might be trimmed/removed later.
 
The hull is finished with one coat of Watco's Danish Wood oil and then buffed with a cotton cloth.

The hull was removed from the building board by inserting a razor blade inserted between the hull and the paper pattern.  It is surprising how strong this hull is.  I do not plan on mounting her but if one wanted to I would suggest covering the open parts of the hull with a sheet of basswood, either left natural or painted black.
Here is the final result.  I hope this project will encourage some of you to take the plunge and plank your next hull the way it was originally done.

 
 

The outboard edges of the transom planks are protected by a black decorative strip.  This was carried down across the bottom of the transom to seal the junction of the transom and counter.  This was done with one piece of basswood that had been wet and then slowly bent to the required shape.  Finally, the taffrail was installed.


The hull is now completed.  At this point one could add treenails but I have chosen not to...maybe some day.  I was asked about ports by one of our members.  If one were to install ports, it would be necessary to finish the inside of the hull, as this would be visible through the ports.  Although possible with the use of sanding discs, it would take a lot of effort to remove the frames.  Don't forget that these frames were selected for strength so the hull would be stable during construction.  There was never any thought that they might be trimmed/removed later.
 
The hull is finished with one coat of Watco's Danish Wood oil and then buffed with a cotton cloth.

The hull was removed from the building board by inserting a razor blade inserted between the hull and the paper pattern.  It is surprising how strong this hull is.  I do not plan on mounting her but if one wanted to I would suggest covering the open parts of the hull with a sheet of basswood, either left natural or painted black.
Here is the final result.  I hope this project will encourage some of you to take the plunge and plank your next hull the way it was originally done.

 
 

The outboard edges of the transom planks are protected by a black decorative strip.  This was carried down across the bottom of the transom to seal the junction of the transom and counter.  This was done with one piece of basswood that had been wet and then slowly bent to the required shape.  Finally, the taffrail was installed.


The hull is now completed.  At this point one could add treenails but I have chosen not to...maybe some day.  I was asked about ports by one of our members.  If one were to install ports, it would be necessary to finish the inside of the hull, as this would be visible through the ports.  Although possible with the use of sanding discs, it would take a lot of effort to remove the frames.  Don't forget that these frames were selected for strength so the hull would be stable during construction.  There was never any thought that they might be trimmed/removed later.
 
The hull is finished with one coat of Watco's Danish Wood oil and then buffed with a cotton cloth.

The hull was removed from the building board by inserting a razor blade inserted between the hull and the paper pattern.  It is surprising how strong this hull is.  I do not plan on mounting her but if one wanted to I would suggest covering the open parts of the hull with a sheet of basswood, either left natural or painted black.
Here is the final result.  I hope this project will encourage some of you to take the plunge and plank your next hull the way it was originally done.

 
 

There are four rows of counter planks.  You can see that the upper counter plank extends beyond the counter.  This is to allow a good fit with the transom planking.  Remember that the lowest row of the bulwark planking was not trimmed so that it would protect the end of the counter planks.  And the lowest row of counter planking protects the ends of lower hull planks.  Everything is designed to prevent water penetration into the wood.  Later I will install a trim piece to protect the ends of the bulwark planks.  The aft end of the wale is now sanded down to blend into the counter planking.  After they were installed, the lowest bulwark plank was sanded to conform to the curvature of the counter.  

The wale has not received its first coat of dye.  I will eventually apply three coats.

The four rows of quarter deck bulwark planking are straight forward.

The transom has been planked and the junction between the counter and the transom planking as been cleaned up.

The easiest way to determine the shape of the cap rail is to lay a piece of paper along the top of the bulkheads and trace the outer edge of the planking onto the paper (black line).  I have chosen a rail width of six inches and have drawn a line three inches inboard and outboard from the traced line (red lines).  There is a significant curve in front of Frame 4a so I made the rail in two sections with a simple scarf joint at Frame 5.  It is drawn in blue ink on the picture below.

The shape of the quarter deck cap rail is determined the same way.  It is made in one piece.

For aesthetics I dyed the edge of the rails before installing them.  There is also a vertical piece at the break of the quarter deck which protects the ends of the quarter deck bulwark planks.  And here are the results.

 

Now that the hull is perfectly smooth, the second layer of the wale will be installed.  Since I had saved the template for the first layer of wale planking, it was easy to cut out two more pieces.  Just for fun I made a hook scarf connecting the two pieces.  To to this I made the mating edge of the planks longer to take up the scarf.  The scarf was drawn onto the plank and cut out with the knife.  I dyed the joint edges and the sides of the planks before installing.



At the bow, the wale ends in the rabbet.  Since the rabbet does not become wider to accommodate the wale, the wale decreases in thickness as it enters the rabbet.

Something similar occurs at the stern.  The picture shows the wale tapering in thickness as it approaches the counter.  The counter has not been planked at this point but after it has been, the wale will be sanded down to fay into the counter planking.

 
 

Thanks for reminding me.  I have never used the cedar.  This project is actually the first time I have used any type of softwood on a single planked hull.  I am surprised at how nicely it finishes up.  It's biggest downside for me is the dents left behind by clamping, although most of those will come out by putting a drop of water on the dent and letting the wood absorb it.  This makes the wood fibers swell but after the wood dries out again, the dent is much less apparent.

Maury, what is AYC?
 
Bruce, I use a razor blade to release the model from the paper.  Some of the paper comes off as well, but a little sand paper takes care of it.

Now that the hull is perfectly smooth, the second layer of the wale will be installed.  Since I had saved the template for the first layer of wale planking, it was easy to cut out two more pieces.  Just for fun I made a hook scarf connecting the two pieces.  To to this I made the mating edge of the planks longer to take up the scarf.  The scarf was drawn onto the plank and cut out with the knife.  I dyed the joint edges and the sides of the planks before installing.



At the bow, the wale ends in the rabbet.  Since the rabbet does not become wider to accommodate the wale, the wale decreases in thickness as it enters the rabbet.

Something similar occurs at the stern.  The picture shows the wale tapering in thickness as it approaches the counter.  The counter has not been planked at this point but after it has been, the wale will be sanded down to fay into the counter planking.

 
 

The aft two planks of the upper row of planking were installed.  The fore plank (the one which will be dropped) was cut out a bit over-sized and bent to shape by wetting and clamping it to the hull.  At this point it is not permanently installed.




The fore plank of the third row was then trial fit by laying it over the temporarily installed drop plank.  The drop plank was then trimmed to fit and they were both permanently installed.



Here is the final result.  Everything has been planked below the wale.

 

Time to get back to work.  The lower two rows of the upper planking belt  are installed next.  There is nothing special about them.  There will be a dropped plank involving the upper two rows at the bow.  In the third picture you can see the dropped plank drawn onto the frames.



Using tape, the lower edge of the plank was determined by running a pencil line along the top of the plank below and the upper edge was drawn from the marks previously made on the frames.

This was repeated for the upper plank and the two tapes are seen below.  Notice that I added 1/16" to the fore end of the plank to allow it to seat into the rabbet.

 
 

Now that the hull is perfectly smooth, the second layer of the wale will be installed.  Since I had saved the template for the first layer of wale planking, it was easy to cut out two more pieces.  Just for fun I made a hook scarf connecting the two pieces.  To to this I made the mating edge of the planks longer to take up the scarf.  The scarf was drawn onto the plank and cut out with the knife.  I dyed the joint edges and the sides of the planks before installing.



At the bow, the wale ends in the rabbet.  Since the rabbet does not become wider to accommodate the wale, the wale decreases in thickness as it enters the rabbet.

Something similar occurs at the stern.  The picture shows the wale tapering in thickness as it approaches the counter.  The counter has not been planked at this point but after it has been, the wale will be sanded down to fay into the counter planking.

 
 

The aft two planks of the upper row of planking were installed.  The fore plank (the one which will be dropped) was cut out a bit over-sized and bent to shape by wetting and clamping it to the hull.  At this point it is not permanently installed.




The fore plank of the third row was then trial fit by laying it over the temporarily installed drop plank.  The drop plank was then trimmed to fit and they were both permanently installed.



Here is the final result.  Everything has been planked below the wale.

 

Thanks for reminding me.  I have never used the cedar.  This project is actually the first time I have used any type of softwood on a single planked hull.  I am surprised at how nicely it finishes up.  It's biggest downside for me is the dents left behind by clamping, although most of those will come out by putting a drop of water on the dent and letting the wood absorb it.  This makes the wood fibers swell but after the wood dries out again, the dent is much less apparent.

Maury, what is AYC?
 
Bruce, I use a razor blade to release the model from the paper.  Some of the paper comes off as well, but a little sand paper takes care of it.

Now that the hull is perfectly smooth, the second layer of the wale will be installed.  Since I had saved the template for the first layer of wale planking, it was easy to cut out two more pieces.  Just for fun I made a hook scarf connecting the two pieces.  To to this I made the mating edge of the planks longer to take up the scarf.  The scarf was drawn onto the plank and cut out with the knife.  I dyed the joint edges and the sides of the planks before installing.



At the bow, the wale ends in the rabbet.  Since the rabbet does not become wider to accommodate the wale, the wale decreases in thickness as it enters the rabbet.

Something similar occurs at the stern.  The picture shows the wale tapering in thickness as it approaches the counter.  The counter has not been planked at this point but after it has been, the wale will be sanded down to fay into the counter planking.

 
 

I have chosen to add a decorative strip approximately at the level of the quarter deck.  This will appear to be continuous with the main deck cap rail.  I used chart tape to determine the run of the strip.  This also happens to be the same width as the strip so it gives a good visual representation of the final result.


The upper and lower edges of the strip were drawn onto the frames and filled in with marker.

There are four rows of planking between the wale and the decorative strip.  The butts of these planks were drawn onto the frames in red and the width of the planks was drawn in black.

These planks are straight forward to install, requiring minimal spiling.  At the stern, leave the excess wood on the lower row.  The ends of counter planking will be covered up by this.


This is the perfect time to sand the hull.  All the planking from the main deck cap rail to the keel is the same thickness, making the job much easier.  I start with 120 grit and progressively sand up to 1500 grit.  With the finer grits, I wet the hull first and then sand.  This gives it almost a burnished appearance.  The decorative strip has been applied.  This is 1/32" thick and 1/16" wide, so it stands proud of the hull planking by 1/32".  I dye the wood before gluing it to the hull.

 

The aft two planks of the upper row of planking were installed.  The fore plank (the one which will be dropped) was cut out a bit over-sized and bent to shape by wetting and clamping it to the hull.  At this point it is not permanently installed.




The fore plank of the third row was then trial fit by laying it over the temporarily installed drop plank.  The drop plank was then trimmed to fit and they were both permanently installed.



Here is the final result.  Everything has been planked below the wale.