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tlevine

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  1. Model Railroad Magazine did a feature article on the layout in 2007.
  2. Maury, with the softness of the basswood I find the surface visually smooth but when I rub my hand along it there is still some roughness. With hardwoods I usually stop at 400. It only takes a few minutes to sand it further because I am only sanding the lower hull, not the wale or bulwark planking.
  3. Actually, I don't remember what my logic was. That was almost seven years ago. But in general I work from the bottom up.
  4. The outboard edges of the transom planks are protected by a black decorative strip. This was carried down across the bottom of the transom to seal the junction of the transom and counter. This was done with one piece of basswood that had been wet and then slowly bent to the required shape. Finally, the taffrail was installed. The hull is now completed. At this point one could add treenails but I have chosen not to...maybe some day. I was asked about ports by one of our members. If one were to install ports, it would be necessary to finish the inside of the hull, as this would be visible through the ports. Although possible with the use of sanding discs, it would take a lot of effort to remove the frames. Don't forget that these frames were selected for strength so the hull would be stable during construction. There was never any thought that they might be trimmed/removed later. The hull is finished with one coat of Watco's Danish Wood oil and then buffed with a cotton cloth. The hull was removed from the building board by inserting a razor blade inserted between the hull and the paper pattern. It is surprising how strong this hull is. I do not plan on mounting her but if one wanted to I would suggest covering the open parts of the hull with a sheet of basswood, either left natural or painted black. Here is the final result. I hope this project will encourage some of you to take the plunge and plank your next hull the way it was originally done.
  5. There are four rows of counter planks. You can see that the upper counter plank extends beyond the counter. This is to allow a good fit with the transom planking. Remember that the lowest row of the bulwark planking was not trimmed so that it would protect the end of the counter planks. And the lowest row of counter planking protects the ends of lower hull planks. Everything is designed to prevent water penetration into the wood. Later I will install a trim piece to protect the ends of the bulwark planks. The aft end of the wale is now sanded down to blend into the counter planking. After they were installed, the lowest bulwark plank was sanded to conform to the curvature of the counter. The wale has not received its first coat of dye. I will eventually apply three coats. The four rows of quarter deck bulwark planking are straight forward. The transom has been planked and the junction between the counter and the transom planking as been cleaned up. The easiest way to determine the shape of the cap rail is to lay a piece of paper along the top of the bulkheads and trace the outer edge of the planking onto the paper (black line). I have chosen a rail width of six inches and have drawn a line three inches inboard and outboard from the traced line (red lines). There is a significant curve in front of Frame 4a so I made the rail in two sections with a simple scarf joint at Frame 5. It is drawn in blue ink on the picture below. The shape of the quarter deck cap rail is determined the same way. It is made in one piece. For aesthetics I dyed the edge of the rails before installing them. There is also a vertical piece at the break of the quarter deck which protects the ends of the quarter deck bulwark planks. And here are the results.
  6. Thanks for reminding me. I have never used the cedar. This project is actually the first time I have used any type of softwood on a single planked hull. I am surprised at how nicely it finishes up. It's biggest downside for me is the dents left behind by clamping, although most of those will come out by putting a drop of water on the dent and letting the wood absorb it. This makes the wood fibers swell but after the wood dries out again, the dent is much less apparent.
  7. Maury, what is AYC? Bruce, I use a razor blade to release the model from the paper. Some of the paper comes off as well, but a little sand paper takes care of it.
  8. Now that the hull is perfectly smooth, the second layer of the wale will be installed. Since I had saved the template for the first layer of wale planking, it was easy to cut out two more pieces. Just for fun I made a hook scarf connecting the two pieces. To to this I made the mating edge of the planks longer to take up the scarf. The scarf was drawn onto the plank and cut out with the knife. I dyed the joint edges and the sides of the planks before installing. At the bow, the wale ends in the rabbet. Since the rabbet does not become wider to accommodate the wale, the wale decreases in thickness as it enters the rabbet. Something similar occurs at the stern. The picture shows the wale tapering in thickness as it approaches the counter. The counter has not been planked at this point but after it has been, the wale will be sanded down to fay into the counter planking.
  9. I have chosen to add a decorative strip approximately at the level of the quarter deck. This will appear to be continuous with the main deck cap rail. I used chart tape to determine the run of the strip. This also happens to be the same width as the strip so it gives a good visual representation of the final result. The upper and lower edges of the strip were drawn onto the frames and filled in with marker. There are four rows of planking between the wale and the decorative strip. The butts of these planks were drawn onto the frames in red and the width of the planks was drawn in black. These planks are straight forward to install, requiring minimal spiling. At the stern, leave the excess wood on the lower row. The ends of counter planking will be covered up by this. This is the perfect time to sand the hull. All the planking from the main deck cap rail to the keel is the same thickness, making the job much easier. I start with 120 grit and progressively sand up to 1500 grit. With the finer grits, I wet the hull first and then sand. This gives it almost a burnished appearance. The decorative strip has been applied. This is 1/32" thick and 1/16" wide, so it stands proud of the hull planking by 1/32". I dye the wood before gluing it to the hull.
  10. The aft two planks of the upper row of planking were installed. The fore plank (the one which will be dropped) was cut out a bit over-sized and bent to shape by wetting and clamping it to the hull. At this point it is not permanently installed. The fore plank of the third row was then trial fit by laying it over the temporarily installed drop plank. The drop plank was then trimmed to fit and they were both permanently installed. Here is the final result. Everything has been planked below the wale.
  11. Time to get back to work. The lower two rows of the upper planking belt are installed next. There is nothing special about them. There will be a dropped plank involving the upper two rows at the bow. In the third picture you can see the dropped plank drawn onto the frames. Using tape, the lower edge of the plank was determined by running a pencil line along the top of the plank below and the upper edge was drawn from the marks previously made on the frames. This was repeated for the upper plank and the two tapes are seen below. Notice that I added 1/16" to the fore end of the plank to allow it to seat into the rabbet.
  12. Forget the gun ports on the plan. I had originally planned on building them out but had to choose between spacing the frames equally apart from each other or incorporating gun ports. Equal spacing won out because it made the butt shift easier to deal with. Also, if you put in the ports it allows you to look into the hull as there would not have been any covers fitted to these ports. There are a lot of things you can do with the hull once it has been planked including trunneling the hull, installing the ceiling, deck beams/planking, gun ports, hatch covers, etc. I stopped where I did because I wanted to focus on hull planking for the beginner.
  13. Just a quick update. I have the hull completed up to main deck cap rail. Unfortunately, I am having computer issues and will not be able to post any pictures until my new computer arrives later this week.
  14. I am not a great photographer. One of the things that I find indispensable is photo editing software. It compensates for a lot of sins. It does not need to be expensive but should allow you to adjust light and color, crop, erase and resize. I use an ancient version of Photoshp PSE 9. You could probably find some freeware that would serve your needs.
  15. At this point I am going to install the wale, or at least part of it. For ease of bending this will be made up of two laminations of the same thickness as the planking. This technique has the added advantage of using the second layer to disguise any slight gaps between the first layer of the wale and the upper row of hull planking. The wale will be made up of two planks. The first layer will have a butt joint located at the dead flat frame. The location of the wale had already been drawn onto the frames and this was transferred to the tape. I will be putting a scarf joint in the outer layer and its general location is also seen on the tape. The scarf does not need to rest on a frame since it will have a solid piece of wood underneath it. Take a look at the end of the wale. It does not rise above the counter. There is a smooth line connecting the ends of the planks of the upper belt with the end of the wale. Cut out the two pieces of the wale. Save the tape to reuse for the second layer. The wale will be a contrasting color. I have chosen to "paint" the wale with archival marker. The sides of the planks have been painted, even though they will not be seen.
  16. The lower two planking belts have been completed. The next two rows of planking are no different than any of the other recent rows except that the aft ends terminate on the counter. Before going any further, I wanted to finalize the location and shape of the drop plank. As I mentioned earlier, the kit goes through the technique of making a quarter-checked drop plank; this build log will utilize a half-checked. These are always located just below the wale. Using thin strips of tape I have marked out the forward rows of planking, with the drop plank terminating on Frame 5a. After I was happy with the alignment, I drew the planking rows onto the frames. Because of the multiple curves, I used small pieces of tape to determine the shape of the fore plank. Transfer the plank width onto the tape from the marks on the frames. You can see that the width of this plank is wider than those in the middle planking belt. I did not carry the middle belt high enough in front of Frame 2, causing this to occur. If this was a "real" model I would have re-planked the middle belt. But this hull will be joining its four siblings in a closet so I have chosen the lazy-person's way out and left it alone. The curve into the counter is actually very gentle and requires only a little encouragement to fit against the aft bulkheads.
  17. The soft basswood dents very easily. Consider putting a scrap piece of wood between the clamp and the plank to prevent damage. There is only going to be one planking belt so instead of paper tic strips, take thin strips of masking tape and lay them on the frames from the broad strake to the top of the frame. Decide how many rows of planking you are going to need. I had ten rows but I did not use the kit-provided planks. Measure the total length marked on the masking tape and divide by the number of planking rows. Then, using a caliper, mark out the planking rows directly on the frames. You will have no need for stealers or drop planks. Looking at the picture above, did you fair the frames enough fore and aft? This is a picture from my build, showing the amount of sanding required to get a smooth planking run.
  18. Although they are not the best pictures, there are some photos of the bow and stern in my build log that might be helpful.
  19. I cannot help you with the HTML stuff, sorry. Your pictures are OK. What do you use for photo software? Securing the subdeck will help correct the warp but I would suggest adding some temporary battens along each side as well. They can be removed as you start your first planking layer. On a kit like this, the rabbet will be simply a bevel sanded onto the edges of the keel piece and the backbone. It will help secure that first layer of planking but will have no impact on the veneer layer. It should be easy to do. The carbide drill bits you are using are extremely brittle, which is why they broke so easily. Get some HSS bits instead. Most of us only use the carbide bits in a drill press because they are so brittle. The type of Dremel you are using complicates things because you are holding it with a pistol grip rather than just grabbing it in your hand. This makes holding the Dremel perfectly still difficult. I had one...emphasis on the word had. Since you appear willing to spend a little money, I would suggest that you get a good quality pin vise for those tight spots and a straight moto-tool (either corded or not).
  20. Thank you to all the NRG members who attended the Conference in New Bedford. It was great seeing both old friends and new faces. Work has resumed on the half hull project. There are no complicated planks in the rest of the middle planking belt except for the aft plank in the top row. The pictures show the general sweep of the planking followed by the appearance of the planks at the bow and stern. The aft plank of the fourth row lands on both the counter and the sternpost. If you make a tape template it should not cause too much of a problem. At the Conference several people asked my how I bend my planks. The soft basswood only needs a little water to get it to bend. I will typically clamp it in place, putting a scrap between the clamp and the plank to prevent dimpling. After it has dried (no less than an hour) glue it to the hull. With hardwoods this is more of a problem, sometimes requiring heat and moisture. Never soak a plank in ammonia; it disrupts the wood fibers. The photo shows the curve of the planking without any high or low spots.
  21. Post a build log. We are here to help, not criticize. We are also good cheerleaders and teachers when the journey gets tough (and it will). Your best tool will be patience. Your second best tool will be solvent for your glue! We all started at the beginning. We all make mistakes, no matter how many years we have been building models. On my current project (see below) I ripped out three rows of planking, costing me several days of work. Just remember, this is a hobby... Have fun with it; and if you learn something along the way even better.
  22. Thanks, Paul. I will be back to work on her later this week.
  23. The 2019 Conference is over and I would like to thank all of the speakers and especially the members who joined us in New Bedford. For those who could not join us, you missed a fantastic group of fellow modelers and preeminent speakers. Hopefully we will see you next time.
  24. Don't you mean bulkheads? There are numerous build logs for this kit. Several of them discuss how to fair (sand) the bulkheads. Just type "armed longboat" in the search bar.
  25. Why don't you simply reply to your own topic, just like I am replying to you? It will then be a new post and put at the top of the queue.

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