tlevine

I have progressed a little with the deck planking.  This is 2" thick, in contrast with the king plank which is 3" thick.  There is a mild taper in the planks towards the bow and (more noticeably) the stern.  Not all of the planks are the same width at midships.  In particular, the planks between the outboard edge of the hatchways and the king plank are narrower.  Caulking is represented by pencil.  The planking extends all the way to the beam edges for the scuttles but is recessed 5" for the hatchways to accommodate the hatch covers.
 
The riding bitts are temporarily installed to allow the deck planking to abut the timber.  At this point I decided to remove the bit and discovered that it would not come out.  The bitt is notched to fit into the fore platform and lower deck beam.  Not a problem when the framing is left exposed; big problem when the deck planking has been installed.  The solution was to remove the deck planking around the bitt and taper the fore edge down towards the lower platform, rather than having a notch for the lower deck beam.  The starboard bitt will be left with the notch intact.
 

 

 

I put in the centerline or king plank next.  This plank is 3" thick and the lateral edges are beveled.  My deck planking will be holly with one edge and end highlighted with pencil so the seams are more apparent.  The hardest part of deck planking is determining the centerline.  I drilled a hole in the midline of the stemson and inserted a pin into the hole.  A doubled thread then is secured to the pin and to the #19 pillar to determine the midline.  The thread is evident in the pictures.
 

 
The pins for the riding bitt, main topsail sheet bitt and the main jeer bitt were temporarily installed.  The riding bitt extends all the way to the thickstuff over the floorhead.  The other bitts end at the lower deck beams.  These are 9" square but have an aft taper below the upper deck.  The dimensions at the lower deck beam are 6"d x 9"w.  The foot is rounded over.  These are shown in TFFM as being bolted flush to the aft side of beams 11 and 12.  The draughts for Atalanta show that they are mortised into the beams and that the jeer bitt is also mortised into the after hatch framing.  These are (theoretically) bolted to the beams.  In the pictures I made no attempt to check for plumb, as these were only temporarily fastened.  During the construction of the lower deck framing, I did not think far enough ahead.  I should have made these bitts and drilled the bolt holes as assemblies 11 and 12 were made.  At this point, it would be next to impossible to put those holes in.
 

 

 
Of course, while I am taking pictures, Sadie decided that she was not getting enough attention.  It looks like she is taking a bite out of the stern.  In reality, she loves masking tape and the midline thread is secured with some (which she is trying to remove).  Since we almost lost her to urosepsis last week (a really bad kidney infection that gave her blood poisoning in normal people talk), I guess I can tolerate some of her idiosyncrasies.  But if she ate a piece of wood...
 

A milestone has been achieved.  The lower deck structure has been finished.  I have been applying finish to the underside of the beam sets before installing them.  The gap in front of lodging knee 17 in the fourth photo occurred because the assembly is not glued in yet and it shifted.  The last photo shows it better positioned.  I will not put on any upper surface finish until after the decking is installed.  Now on to the mizzen partner.
 

 
    
 

 

Danny, thanks for the head's up.
 
Not much has been accomplished the last week.  The spring here has been particularly cold and cloudy so now that it is a little warmer (50 degrees with a 30 mph wind!) I have been occupied in the gardens.  We finally saw the sun yesterday so I took Atalanta sailing in the lawn.
 

 

 

I have progressed a little with the deck planking.  This is 2" thick, in contrast with the king plank which is 3" thick.  There is a mild taper in the planks towards the bow and (more noticeably) the stern.  Not all of the planks are the same width at midships.  In particular, the planks between the outboard edge of the hatchways and the king plank are narrower.  Caulking is represented by pencil.  The planking extends all the way to the beam edges for the scuttles but is recessed 5" for the hatchways to accommodate the hatch covers.
 
The riding bitts are temporarily installed to allow the deck planking to abut the timber.  At this point I decided to remove the bit and discovered that it would not come out.  The bitt is notched to fit into the fore platform and lower deck beam.  Not a problem when the framing is left exposed; big problem when the deck planking has been installed.  The solution was to remove the deck planking around the bitt and taper the fore edge down towards the lower platform, rather than having a notch for the lower deck beam.  The starboard bitt will be left with the notch intact.
 

 

 

I have accomplished a lot of little things since the last posting.  Some of these included mock-up of internal planking to decide how I want to procede.  In order to show off the framing of the lower deck, I will leave the starboard deck completely bare.  (Yes I know it will be barely visible regardless.)  I will put in the waterway on the port side but will not install the spirketting on either side.  Internal bulkeeads will be installed on the port side only.
 
The waterways are 3" planks that taper medially to 2" to match the thickness of the deck planking.  They are 12" wide.  There is also a lateral bevel to mate with the bevel of the spirketting.  I could not get a good picture to demonstrate this.  The bevels were scraped in with a razor blade and then sanded.  Once I had fabricated the foremost waterway plank and its scarf, I cut the scarf in to the eking piece on the port side and copied it on to the starboard side.  I could not find a trunnelling diagram either in TFFM or in the various build logs for the waterways so I decided to put two trunnels into each beam and a single trunnel between frames and at the scarf joints.  The trunnels are decorative.
 

 

 

 
 
 

Both strakes of the upper deck clamps are in place.  I started with the upper stake which is 4" thick.  It tapers down to 3" where it intersects the lower strake.  In the pictures that has not been done yet except at the stemson to better highlight the top and butt planking.  There in an airspace below the lower strake which stops at the aft end of the upper deck.  For this reason the aftmost lower plank is 2" wider than the others.  The planks are all treenailed but they are decorative only.  In the pictures the wood looks mottled because I wet it down to try and highlight the treenails and the top and butt planking.
 
I am still trying to decide whether I will install the spirketting or treat it like I have the footwaling and leave it off.  I am leaning towards leaving it off to allow more light to enter the hull.  That decision will be made after the deck planking has been installed.  I will be planking the port side, leaving the starboard side open except for (possibly) the waterway.
 

 

 

 

 

Mark and Pat, thanks for looking in.
 
The mast partner has been installed and now it is time to install the upper deck clamps.  There are four strakes and an air space between the top of the lower deck and the upper deck beams.  The first task was to measure the top of the beams on the draughts and transfer this to the Mylar.  The sheer is less pronounced fore and aft than shown on the Mylar.  This height was then marked on the inside of the hull and a strip of tape was placed to ensure a smooth run for this line and also make sure that the line is parallel to the gun port sills.  The second photo shows the model laid on its side in order to show the run of the clamp to the stemson.  The beams are 7" in height and let into the clamp 1".  Therefore I measured down 6" to find the height of the top of the clamp.  This line was marked in pencil. 
 

 

 

 

Finishing the Rigging:  I finally had a Sunday evening free to work on a boat!  I was able to complete the fore and back stays, to the point that they just need to be finished by trimming the lines, and adding rope coils.  First I have to say, that I enjoyed this kit immensely.  I still have a little ways to go, but this little boat is really a wonderful project to work on.  I highly recommend it.
 
I am still really out of my element when it comes to rigging, so I do not have a whole lot to say as to the process, other than I followed Chuck's directions pretty closely.  Everything came out pretty smooth.  I think my favorite part was making the little hooks needed for the running back stays and the fore stay sails' running gear.
 
At this point I still have to trim off the ends of the rigging, I ran all of the lines pretty long so that I could finish each line easily.  Right now I have about a half dozen lines hanging from the boat, looking a little less than ship shape.  The next step for me is figuring out a good process for making rope coils, and finishing details such as the oars, anchor and windlass bars.  Not to mention some paint touch up from the handling process.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Finished the parrals.
 
 
For large and more detail photos see also:
http://www.flickr.co...han_gokcay/sets
Best go into the set and choose slideshow or
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilhan_gokcay/sets/72157626433922489/detail/?page=47

I have progressed a little with the deck planking.  This is 2" thick, in contrast with the king plank which is 3" thick.  There is a mild taper in the planks towards the bow and (more noticeably) the stern.  Not all of the planks are the same width at midships.  In particular, the planks between the outboard edge of the hatchways and the king plank are narrower.  Caulking is represented by pencil.  The planking extends all the way to the beam edges for the scuttles but is recessed 5" for the hatchways to accommodate the hatch covers.
 
The riding bitts are temporarily installed to allow the deck planking to abut the timber.  At this point I decided to remove the bit and discovered that it would not come out.  The bitt is notched to fit into the fore platform and lower deck beam.  Not a problem when the framing is left exposed; big problem when the deck planking has been installed.  The solution was to remove the deck planking around the bitt and taper the fore edge down towards the lower platform, rather than having a notch for the lower deck beam.  The starboard bitt will be left with the notch intact.
 

 

 

I have progressed a little with the deck planking.  This is 2" thick, in contrast with the king plank which is 3" thick.  There is a mild taper in the planks towards the bow and (more noticeably) the stern.  Not all of the planks are the same width at midships.  In particular, the planks between the outboard edge of the hatchways and the king plank are narrower.  Caulking is represented by pencil.  The planking extends all the way to the beam edges for the scuttles but is recessed 5" for the hatchways to accommodate the hatch covers.
 
The riding bitts are temporarily installed to allow the deck planking to abut the timber.  At this point I decided to remove the bit and discovered that it would not come out.  The bitt is notched to fit into the fore platform and lower deck beam.  Not a problem when the framing is left exposed; big problem when the deck planking has been installed.  The solution was to remove the deck planking around the bitt and taper the fore edge down towards the lower platform, rather than having a notch for the lower deck beam.  The starboard bitt will be left with the notch intact.
 

 

 

Both strakes of the upper deck clamps are in place.  I started with the upper stake which is 4" thick.  It tapers down to 3" where it intersects the lower strake.  In the pictures that has not been done yet except at the stemson to better highlight the top and butt planking.  There in an airspace below the lower strake which stops at the aft end of the upper deck.  For this reason the aftmost lower plank is 2" wider than the others.  The planks are all treenailed but they are decorative only.  In the pictures the wood looks mottled because I wet it down to try and highlight the treenails and the top and butt planking.
 
I am still trying to decide whether I will install the spirketting or treat it like I have the footwaling and leave it off.  I am leaning towards leaving it off to allow more light to enter the hull.  That decision will be made after the deck planking has been installed.  I will be planking the port side, leaving the starboard side open except for (possibly) the waterway.
 

 

 

 

 

Mark and Pat, thanks for looking in.
 
The mast partner has been installed and now it is time to install the upper deck clamps.  There are four strakes and an air space between the top of the lower deck and the upper deck beams.  The first task was to measure the top of the beams on the draughts and transfer this to the Mylar.  The sheer is less pronounced fore and aft than shown on the Mylar.  This height was then marked on the inside of the hull and a strip of tape was placed to ensure a smooth run for this line and also make sure that the line is parallel to the gun port sills.  The second photo shows the model laid on its side in order to show the run of the clamp to the stemson.  The beams are 7" in height and let into the clamp 1".  Therefore I measured down 6" to find the height of the top of the clamp.  This line was marked in pencil. 
 

 

 

 

I have progressed a little with the deck planking.  This is 2" thick, in contrast with the king plank which is 3" thick.  There is a mild taper in the planks towards the bow and (more noticeably) the stern.  Not all of the planks are the same width at midships.  In particular, the planks between the outboard edge of the hatchways and the king plank are narrower.  Caulking is represented by pencil.  The planking extends all the way to the beam edges for the scuttles but is recessed 5" for the hatchways to accommodate the hatch covers.
 
The riding bitts are temporarily installed to allow the deck planking to abut the timber.  At this point I decided to remove the bit and discovered that it would not come out.  The bitt is notched to fit into the fore platform and lower deck beam.  Not a problem when the framing is left exposed; big problem when the deck planking has been installed.  The solution was to remove the deck planking around the bitt and taper the fore edge down towards the lower platform, rather than having a notch for the lower deck beam.  The starboard bitt will be left with the notch intact.
 

 

 

Both strakes of the upper deck clamps are in place.  I started with the upper stake which is 4" thick.  It tapers down to 3" where it intersects the lower strake.  In the pictures that has not been done yet except at the stemson to better highlight the top and butt planking.  There in an airspace below the lower strake which stops at the aft end of the upper deck.  For this reason the aftmost lower plank is 2" wider than the others.  The planks are all treenailed but they are decorative only.  In the pictures the wood looks mottled because I wet it down to try and highlight the treenails and the top and butt planking.
 
I am still trying to decide whether I will install the spirketting or treat it like I have the footwaling and leave it off.  I am leaning towards leaving it off to allow more light to enter the hull.  That decision will be made after the deck planking has been installed.  I will be planking the port side, leaving the starboard side open except for (possibly) the waterway.
 

 

 

 

 

I put in the centerline or king plank next.  This plank is 3" thick and the lateral edges are beveled.  My deck planking will be holly with one edge and end highlighted with pencil so the seams are more apparent.  The hardest part of deck planking is determining the centerline.  I drilled a hole in the midline of the stemson and inserted a pin into the hole.  A doubled thread then is secured to the pin and to the #19 pillar to determine the midline.  The thread is evident in the pictures.
 

 
The pins for the riding bitt, main topsail sheet bitt and the main jeer bitt were temporarily installed.  The riding bitt extends all the way to the thickstuff over the floorhead.  The other bitts end at the lower deck beams.  These are 9" square but have an aft taper below the upper deck.  The dimensions at the lower deck beam are 6"d x 9"w.  The foot is rounded over.  These are shown in TFFM as being bolted flush to the aft side of beams 11 and 12.  The draughts for Atalanta show that they are mortised into the beams and that the jeer bitt is also mortised into the after hatch framing.  These are (theoretically) bolted to the beams.  In the pictures I made no attempt to check for plumb, as these were only temporarily fastened.  During the construction of the lower deck framing, I did not think far enough ahead.  I should have made these bitts and drilled the bolt holes as assemblies 11 and 12 were made.  At this point, it would be next to impossible to put those holes in.
 

 

 
Of course, while I am taking pictures, Sadie decided that she was not getting enough attention.  It looks like she is taking a bite out of the stern.  In reality, she loves masking tape and the midline thread is secured with some (which she is trying to remove).  Since we almost lost her to urosepsis last week (a really bad kidney infection that gave her blood poisoning in normal people talk), I guess I can tolerate some of her idiosyncrasies.  But if she ate a piece of wood...
 

I put in the centerline or king plank next.  This plank is 3" thick and the lateral edges are beveled.  My deck planking will be holly with one edge and end highlighted with pencil so the seams are more apparent.  The hardest part of deck planking is determining the centerline.  I drilled a hole in the midline of the stemson and inserted a pin into the hole.  A doubled thread then is secured to the pin and to the #19 pillar to determine the midline.  The thread is evident in the pictures.
 

 
The pins for the riding bitt, main topsail sheet bitt and the main jeer bitt were temporarily installed.  The riding bitt extends all the way to the thickstuff over the floorhead.  The other bitts end at the lower deck beams.  These are 9" square but have an aft taper below the upper deck.  The dimensions at the lower deck beam are 6"d x 9"w.  The foot is rounded over.  These are shown in TFFM as being bolted flush to the aft side of beams 11 and 12.  The draughts for Atalanta show that they are mortised into the beams and that the jeer bitt is also mortised into the after hatch framing.  These are (theoretically) bolted to the beams.  In the pictures I made no attempt to check for plumb, as these were only temporarily fastened.  During the construction of the lower deck framing, I did not think far enough ahead.  I should have made these bitts and drilled the bolt holes as assemblies 11 and 12 were made.  At this point, it would be next to impossible to put those holes in.
 

 

 
Of course, while I am taking pictures, Sadie decided that she was not getting enough attention.  It looks like she is taking a bite out of the stern.  In reality, she loves masking tape and the midline thread is secured with some (which she is trying to remove).  Since we almost lost her to urosepsis last week (a really bad kidney infection that gave her blood poisoning in normal people talk), I guess I can tolerate some of her idiosyncrasies.  But if she ate a piece of wood...
 

I have accomplished a lot of little things since the last posting.  Some of these included mock-up of internal planking to decide how I want to procede.  In order to show off the framing of the lower deck, I will leave the starboard deck completely bare.  (Yes I know it will be barely visible regardless.)  I will put in the waterway on the port side but will not install the spirketting on either side.  Internal bulkeeads will be installed on the port side only.
 
The waterways are 3" planks that taper medially to 2" to match the thickness of the deck planking.  They are 12" wide.  There is also a lateral bevel to mate with the bevel of the spirketting.  I could not get a good picture to demonstrate this.  The bevels were scraped in with a razor blade and then sanded.  Once I had fabricated the foremost waterway plank and its scarf, I cut the scarf in to the eking piece on the port side and copied it on to the starboard side.  I could not find a trunnelling diagram either in TFFM or in the various build logs for the waterways so I decided to put two trunnels into each beam and a single trunnel between frames and at the scarf joints.  The trunnels are decorative.
 

 

 

 
 
 

Both strakes of the upper deck clamps are in place.  I started with the upper stake which is 4" thick.  It tapers down to 3" where it intersects the lower strake.  In the pictures that has not been done yet except at the stemson to better highlight the top and butt planking.  There in an airspace below the lower strake which stops at the aft end of the upper deck.  For this reason the aftmost lower plank is 2" wider than the others.  The planks are all treenailed but they are decorative only.  In the pictures the wood looks mottled because I wet it down to try and highlight the treenails and the top and butt planking.
 
I am still trying to decide whether I will install the spirketting or treat it like I have the footwaling and leave it off.  I am leaning towards leaving it off to allow more light to enter the hull.  That decision will be made after the deck planking has been installed.  I will be planking the port side, leaving the starboard side open except for (possibly) the waterway.
 

 

 

 

 

Thanks, guys.  Just for comparison I took a picture of the longboat next to Atalanta.  They are both 1:48 scale.
 

Installed the floorboards and platforms.  Most of my modeling has been taken up by copper plating the Constitution.  I will start catching up with the group.
 
   Bob R.

Thanks, guys.  Just for comparison I took a picture of the longboat next to Atalanta.  They are both 1:48 scale.
 

If you decide not to take Chuck S. advise, once you break off the top of the stem (and you probably will), put it in the petri dish and leave it there until it is time to start rigging.  Enjoy the build.

Both strakes of the upper deck clamps are in place.  I started with the upper stake which is 4" thick.  It tapers down to 3" where it intersects the lower strake.  In the pictures that has not been done yet except at the stemson to better highlight the top and butt planking.  There in an airspace below the lower strake which stops at the aft end of the upper deck.  For this reason the aftmost lower plank is 2" wider than the others.  The planks are all treenailed but they are decorative only.  In the pictures the wood looks mottled because I wet it down to try and highlight the treenails and the top and butt planking.
 
I am still trying to decide whether I will install the spirketting or treat it like I have the footwaling and leave it off.  I am leaning towards leaving it off to allow more light to enter the hull.  That decision will be made after the deck planking has been installed.  I will be planking the port side, leaving the starboard side open except for (possibly) the waterway.