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mtbediz

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About mtbediz

  • Birthday 04/18/1961

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    https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15541-santa-maria-by-mtbediz-handmade-kit-by-a-friend/#comment-498648
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    https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20981-hms-schooner-pickle-1800/

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    Male
  • Location
    Mersin, Turkey
  • Interests
    Ship modelling

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  1. Hey Greg, you're making great progress. You're probably aware of this, but I still want to remind you that most of the work and details you'll be doing on the gun deck from this point on will be compatible with the details on the spar deck. You'll have a little more time to get there, but I want to remind you now, as mistakes made now will be painful later. You've cut all the beams on the bulkheads, something you should have done anyway. But if you reattach these beams in the same locations, some of them won't match the details on the gun deck and spar deck. If you check out post 968 in Jon's build log, you'll see what I mean; this is just an example. The placement of the spar deck support beams should be carefully chosen throughout the ship. You also know you'll need to add additional beams.
  2. I'm lucky to have a completed Conny build here. XKen is a really good modeler.
  3. For trial purposes I formed a bobstay collar for the mast using a jig. I glued all the seizings with CA and trimmed excess ends. The result is good enough for me. I may have stolen some ideas from XKen.
  4. They appear to be elliptical openings rather than circles.
  5. Yes, Jon, you're right. I actually needed to make channel-shaped openings in the fighting top for the deadeye connections, but I chose to just drill holes.
  6. Peter, I attached the deadeyes the same way you did using brass wire; after feeding the free end through the hole in the fighting top, I bent it into a small loop underneath.
  7. I turned back to the fighting tops. The tops were painted gray and the bottoms white. The strip surrounding the top was soaked in boiling water for about 10 minutes and then held in place with clamps. Once dry, it was removed and, after being painted white, glued back in place. I finished today by installing the deadeyes that I had previously prepared for the top mast shrouds.
  8. Great start, Greg. You've made it even harder by choosing a 6-window transom version for the USS Constitution, which is already a difficult model to build. That's some commendable courage!
  9. Sorry Peter, I just noticed your post. I don't know why, some posts appear much later in my build log. I guess this is one of them. No, I didn't taper the channels. I didn't even know they needed to be tapered.
  10. I'm taking a break from working on the masts and tops for a while to complete some of the other missing parts. Right now, I'm fabricating the main brace bumpkins and the stern boat davits.
  11. Thanks! With my milling machine, I can get these joints looking sharp and clean.
  12. I am making the lower crosstrees and trestle trees of the fighting tops. The trestle trees haven't been glued to the platform yet. Once all remaining details are completed and the top is painted, the gluing will be done directly on the mast. If I had glued the trestle trees earlier, I wouldn't have been able to lower the top into place due to the protrusions of the brass bands on the square section of the mast.
  13. I’m fitting brass bands around the square tops of the masts. I milled 0.2 mm deep grooves, bent 0.3 mm brass strip to shape, and fixed it in place with CA glue.
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