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mtbediz

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About mtbediz

  • Birthday 04/18/1961

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    https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15541-santa-maria-by-mtbediz-handmade-kit-by-a-friend/#comment-498648
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    https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20981-hms-schooner-pickle-1800/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mersin, Turkey
  • Interests
    Ship modelling

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  1. Sorry my friend, I didn't understand the question.
  2. I bought 0.5-0.6-0.7mm cutters from Ali Express. They're not expensive, so I recommend them. You might need them again.
  3. Unless you're adding sails, there are lot of belaying pins that won't be attached anyway. I'd leave the holes empty; it looks more natural.
  4. I've often considered sourcing small parts like blocks and deadeyes, which are used in large numbers in sailing ship models, from external suppliers. Sometimes I wonder if all the effort I put into making them myself is really worth it. The quality of the rigging ropes truly makes a significant difference in the overall appearance of sailing ship models. Since I couldn't find a supplier in my country that offered the quality I was looking for, I started making the ropes myself. I was pleased with the results, so I’ve continued doing it ever since.
  5. Hi Turcic, I made the eyebolts myself. I used 0.6mm brass wire and the inner diameter of the eyelets is 1mm.
  6. The chain plates and deadeyes have been mounted to the main channel on the starboard side.
  7. The stancions look fantastic, Peter, very good job. I only worked with a miniature file set and some sandpaper when making them. I was just wondering what kind of cutters you used to make the stancions. I'm sorry they hurt your hands.
  8. Prepare the tackle outside as shown in the photo and tighten it with a pair of tweezers after attaching it in place. This will make it much easier.
  9. Here's what actually happened. When I first made the stancions, I tried using the three-jaw chuck on the lathe, but I couldn't get the square part to center properly, so I bought Proxxon's DB 250 lathe-compatible plastic four-jaw chuck and used it to make the stancions. I just realized I didn't show this in my build log. I see you have a four-jaw chuck, too, and can easily turn square parts. So, you won't need to make a shank.
  10. I started mounting the chain plates to the fore channel.
  11. One more thing Peter. To mount a square workpiece in a three-jaw chuck, drill a hole at one end of the workpiece, insert a screw or stud of appropriate diameter, and cut its head to create a round shank. Then, clamp the shank into the chuck. There will be no loosening of the shank since the cutter will apply a force in the tightening direction to the screw while the workpiece is rotating. (Apologize for the terrible drawing. It was a bit rushed)
  12. By the way, I sometimes use the milling machine as a lathe. I do this by clamping the workpiece in the chuck and the cutter in the vice. This way, I can move the workpiece (up and down) and the cutter as I please. In this case, the cutter does its job while the workpiece is rotating. Keep that in mind.
  13. Good decision. To be honest, I'm not entirely satisfied with how the canopies I made look either. They're still in place for now, but the thought of removing them keeps crossing my mind. I might replace them with a basic rope guardrail.
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