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mtbediz

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Everything posted by mtbediz

  1. mtbediz
    I gave up on making the chain plates from brass wire because I'm not very good at hammering 1mm thick brass wire into flat strips. The strips don't come out very smooth. Instead, I cut 1.5mm-wide strips from 0.4mm thick brass sheeting I had on hand. After cutting the strips and drilling the bolt holes, I chemically blackened them. I haven't decided yet whether to settle for blackening or paint them black as well. I mounted a deadeye onto the pre-made chain plate and mounted it in place as a test. I used some black 0.6mm diameter nails I had on hand. I haven't glued it in yet.
  2. mtbediz
    When I first got into ship modeling, my initial two builds were kit based. To be honest, I didn’t enjoy them much, and at one point, I even considered giving up the hobby altogether. But while browsing through the build logs on this forum, I stumbled upon some incredible scratch built models. That discovery changed everything for me. Inspired, I decided to try my hand at a relatively simple scratch build. I started by gathering the basic tools needed for scratch building and set out to see what I could create. To my surprise, I thoroughly enjoyed the process. Working from scratch gave me a sense of freedom I hadn’t felt with kits I wasn’t confined by pre made parts or instructions. As time went on, I gradually expanded my toolkit and began tackling more detailed projects. Of course, scratch building demands both time and patience, and having a dedicated workshop space is essential. But for me, the creative freedom and satisfaction it brings make it all worthwhile.
  3. mtbediz
    Thank you Rick.
  4. mtbediz
    When attaching the deadeyes to the chain plates, I'll use the same method I used on the Cutter Alert model, as this is the closest I can get to the appearance of the real ship. P.S. : I flatten the 1mm diameter brass wire by hammering it and use it in the production of chain plates and I drill two holes for the bolts with a 0.6 mm drill bit.
  5. mtbediz
    Yes you are right, I forgot to write it. Diameter of the dowel is 6 mm.
  6. mtbediz
    I haven't sanded the deadeyes yet. I'll post photos of that later. I've used it before and it works well.
  7. mtbediz
    After this step, there are a lot of small parts like deadeyes and blocks that need to be sanded clean, so I made a simple sander to make the job easier. You just drop the parts in, turn the sander with a motor, and they come out clean and sanded.
  8. mtbediz
    I have reached the point where I need to make deadeyes. At first, I considered buying ready made ones but I decided to fabricate them myself. I began by using a triangular file on the lathe to carve the classic grooves into the dowel. Next, I sliced the dowel into discs of the correct thickness using a circular saw, then drilled three evenly spaced holes in each disc using a 0.8 mm bit. After drilling, I remounted each piece on the lathe and gently chamfered the edges with a file. This final touch gave them a smooth, polished finish. The result: clean, functional, and completely handmade deadeyes.
  9. mtbediz
    I don't have any idea about rolling pins but the others look like truckles for the carronade carriages.
  10. mtbediz
    I have the same problem, but I have to leave it as is. Otherwise, I would have to remove the beams that the hatch sits on and many other things.
  11. mtbediz
    Yes my friend, I will do the rigging.
  12. mtbediz
    Yes, due to the angle of the photos, the paths and stairs used to reach the monastery are not visible. Getting there is a bit challenging and tiring, but it is safe.
  13. mtbediz
    You know how to take advantage of the dividing attachment's capabilities. I have one too, but I've realized I haven't been making the most of it yet.
  14. mtbediz
    Clean and precise work, as always. I absolutely agree with your opinion about the Proxxon mill. Every modeler should have it. I was wondering how you would made the square holes for the capstan bars, but I assume you're leaving them round, or will they be square?
  15. mtbediz
    Hi Peter. The outer diameter of the pipe on my grommet is 2.4 mm. I believe the 2 mm measurement on the grommet you found is the inner diameter of the hole, and the outer diameter is probably equal to mine.
  16. mtbediz
    Hi Greg, no I didn't cut these from brass tubing. I bought them from a hobby store.The diameter of the flange is 3.6 mm and the outer diameter of the pipe is 2.4 mm. I first drilled 2.4 mm holes in the ship's hull and placed the portholes inside.
  17. mtbediz
    I am sorry I just noticed your message, Peter. I know it's too late for this, but I'll answer anyway. My curtains are 0,8 mm thick.
  18. mtbediz
    I'm back at my shipyard after a long break. At this stage, I've decided to add the berth deck portlights. I'll be making the channels and chain plates next. I've completed the installation of the starboard portlights. They will be painted black later.
  19. mtbediz
    Nice detail.
  20. mtbediz
    Thanks Greg, I'm planning to finish my vacation next week and go back to my shipyard. I really miss working
  21. mtbediz
    Hi Greg, you're adding gun deck details. Why don't you consider building the bowsprit bits, forward bits and chain stoppers from scratch in accordance with the original? You have the skills and tools to build them from scratch.
  22. mtbediz
    Great work!
  23. mtbediz
    Perfect!
  24. mtbediz
    Looking good, Greg. This build log looks like it will be a good guide for future modellers who add a gun deck to this kit.
  25. mtbediz
    I left the bottom straight without thinking too much about it. Since the lids would be open anyway, they wouldn't be visible

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