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mtbediz

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Everything posted by mtbediz

  1. mtbediz
    I didn't want to go down that path because I foresaw that this would happen to me I chose a path that I felt safe in. Also, I wasn't an expert in soldering, but I learned quickly while doing it. Thanks for the steering wheel plans Jon, they will come in handy.
  2. mtbediz
    Round nose pliers is an ideal tool to make those loops.
  3. mtbediz
    Nope, that's just sandpaper attached to a round stick with double-sided tape.
  4. mtbediz
    I began fabricating the ship's wheel. I started with the fellies Photos tell everything
  5. mtbediz
    Hi Peter, I will try to explain how I made the double eye bolts. First I cut 20 mm long brass rod from 0,5 mm brass wire. I make loops on both ends of the rod with round nose pliers then I bend the rod in the middle with needle-nose pliers.
  6. mtbediz
    Hi Greg, I used 0,7 mm brass wire.
  7. mtbediz
    All the canopies are complete. I will paint them.
  8. mtbediz
    Hi Peter, I used a round nose pliers, needle-nose pliers and side cutter. I will tell you how I made the double eye bolts with photos tomorrow morning. It's not so difficult.
  9. mtbediz
    Hi Peter, My method is actually quite simple and easy to apply. If you can be patient, I will show you with photos tomorrow. I can't do it right now because it's too late in the country I'm in.
  10. mtbediz
    If you mean the eyebolts on the gun beds, then yes, I won't be adding tackless to them. Because I added a tackle to a carronade to try it out and I didn't like the look because it looked too crowded. After all, the model is ours, we can do whatever we want.
  11. mtbediz
    Great job Greg. I don't know the quality of the ropes you're going to use for the rigging, but if there is any fuzz on the ropes, a quick run of a lighter flame over the ropes will remove the fuzz and make it look much better. Just a tip before you start.
  12. mtbediz
    I completed two of the canopies.
  13. mtbediz
    I admire Xken's metalwork, but there's no way I'll ever reach that level. I didn't try to join the rods together by making a central hub, I concentrated on joining them together by soldering neatly in the centre. Because I couldn't convince myself that I could make such a hub to scale. After a few unsuccessful attempts I found a method that gave me a satisfactory result. As can be seen in the photos I fixed the 0,7 mm diameter rods on a flat surface and soldered them all together in the centre. Here only the diagonal rods are in single piece, the other four are separate pieces. I then bent the rods using a jig and fixed it to a jig to solder the horizontal rods. I find the result satisfactory but the excess solders still need to be filed down.
  14. mtbediz
    Yes Peter, that's the plan.
  15. mtbediz
    All fife rails are complete. At this stage I decided to make the canopies. While making the canopies I will solder the connection points. I will not be able to make the cube shaped elements in the connection points on the real ship in this scale. The canopy in the photo is a prototype I made to design how to do the job. I will not use it. Now I am working on a jig that will do this job properly.
  16. mtbediz
    Yes Peter, I exactly drilled them with a 1 mm diameter drill bit.
  17. mtbediz
    Thank you Phil. Pickle was a great rest stop for me after Essex.
  18. mtbediz
    I answered because I knew it would be difficult for you to find the answer you were looking for in my log. I didn't want you to get tired
  19. mtbediz
    Thanks Greg. Yes, the masts go under the gun deck and fit into slots in the false keel. You can see these slots in the MS kit plan. You can also see the mast holes in the gun deck in the photo.
  20. mtbediz
    Main fife rail completed. There is one more fife rail to be built for the mizzen.
  21. mtbediz
    Thank you Jon. I was very inspired by your work when I started building this model and I still benefit from it. I would be happy if I could help others too.
  22. mtbediz
    Fore fife rail completed.
  23. mtbediz
    Thanks Greg. I have a basic DB250 and a FD150 lathe. I don't have a PD250. I used the DB250 when I made the fife rail stanchions. You can work soft metals like brass, aluminum and copper with all three lathes. I bought the FD150 about two years ago and haven't had much use for it. The FD150 and PD250 are lathes that require a bit more skill. If you are thinking of buying a lathe, I would recommend getting the basic DB250 first. If I had my thoughts back then I would reconsider buying the FD150. They are quite expensive machines and I still don't know how much use I will get out of them. If I had to choose between the FD150 and the PD250 right now I would choose the PD250 because the FD150 is a very short lathe and a bit of a pain to work with.
  24. mtbediz
    The rigging of all the guns are complete and I started making the fife rails. First I fabricated ridding bitt knees. To make the stancions I shaped the 4x4 mm pear bar with a file on the lathe then I opened holes and channels to represent the sheaves.
  25. mtbediz
    If you used CA when gluing the carriage parts, you can try using pure acetone to separate them without damaging the parts. Pure acetone has the ability to dissolve dried CA. I have done this from time to time. But you should use pure acetone, that is, the diluted acetone that women use to remove nail polish does not work.

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