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mtbediz

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Everything posted by mtbediz

  1. mtbediz
    Yes, unfortunately if the model is not going to be painted, the basswood is not a good choice. In my opinion it would be better if you switch to black.
  2. mtbediz
    Friends, thank you for your nice feedback. I use this method often in deck planking of my models. It's a bit of a lazy job, but it's an effective method. In this case, I drilled all the planks which are going to be laid in the same space by stacking them on top of each other, which ensured regularity. By the way, Jon's bolts are much more realistic. Even if I could find the material he used, I'm not sure if I would have the patience to make it. Below is an example for the deck. I did this on my Alert model.
  3. mtbediz
    I have started planking the spar deck bulwark and adding the pin racks and other detail. I drilled 0,6 mm diameter holes into the planks to represent the bolts and was happy with the result. For the bolts, I didn't feel the need to struggle for a more realistic look at this scale.
  4. mtbediz
    These can never be bent, but remember that since they are hardened metal, they are more brittle. They require more careful work.
  5. mtbediz
    You are so right, Phil. I actually experience that happiness at the end of every working day. Sitting in front of the model for a while and watching what I did makes me so happy every day. That is the best part of this hobby.
  6. mtbediz
    I solved this problem by purchasing the drill bits on the link below from Aliexpress. I recommend it. https://tr.aliexpress.com/item/32861744539.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.63923d12uWMMlA&gatewayAdapt=glo2tur
  7. mtbediz
    Thank you Peter.
  8. mtbediz
    Thank you Greg. Yes, the gun deck detail and spar deck beams are complete. It was a real marathon for me. Especially building the beams and knees was a lot of repetition and hard work. Thank God it's over. I think it'll be more fun from now on.
  9. mtbediz
    I completed the frames of the spar deck gunports and cut the gunports. I protected the sills with a brass jig to prevent damage during cutting.
  10. mtbediz
    Yes, there is such a risk if I don't take measure. I have some measures in my mind and I will try to implement them.
  11. mtbediz
    I have started making the gun ports in the front. I glue the bottom sills of the gun port frames to the planksheer and mount it on the waterway. I will cut the gun ports after the frames are completed.
  12. mtbediz
    It was very clever of you to make each piece separately from the model, Peter. I worked entirely on the model when making the galleries and it was very difficult. As always, you did a very clean and neat job.
  13. mtbediz
    I think the reason is that it makes the hull of the ship stronger against lateral forces. Like zigzag braces on lattice electric poles. If there is an expert on the subject here, maybe he/she can contribute to the reason for this.
  14. mtbediz
    Actually, I did not use a file when chamfering the curved bow waterway on the port side. I thought about how I could do it better. I attached a drum sander to my hand drill mounted on my drill stand and made an inclined table in front of the drum. Thus, by sanding the waterway at a fixed angle, I achieved a more regular chamfer and completed the job in a much shorter time.
  15. mtbediz
    The spar deck waterways have been completed.
  16. mtbediz
    Thank you.
  17. mtbediz
    Hi Jon, actually there aren't many ways to do this. I do what most modelers do. First, I make a template and transfer it to the wood. After cutting it with a scroll saw, I chamfer it with a file. Finally, I make corrections with sandpaper, that's all.
  18. mtbediz
    Peter, windows look very good. I've never worked with styrene before. What tools do you use to cut and shape it properly? Thanks.
  19. mtbediz
    I'm making the waterways. I made a jig for my circular saw to chamfer the waterways.
  20. mtbediz
    A legendary work.
  21. mtbediz
    In my opinion, a milling machine is a tool that every modeler should have. It makes things a lot easier and helps a lot in getting the job done properly. It will take you a few months at most to use the milling machine effectively. You will need a vise compatible with the milling machine and end mills of different diameters.
  22. mtbediz
    Thank you so much Ronald.
  23. mtbediz
    Gratings on the spar deck were completed and varnished.
  24. mtbediz
    The windows look perfect, Peter. I have never used styrene in the models I have made but I will definitely use it from now on.
  25. mtbediz
    Thank you Jon.

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