Captain Slog

Thought I’d add a ships launch 

So much life and activity going on! 
Outstanding!

So much life and activity going on! 
Outstanding!

So much life and activity going on! 
Outstanding!

So much life and activity going on! 
Outstanding!

So much life and activity going on! 
Outstanding!

So much life and activity going on! 
Outstanding!

Part 3, that’s the deck details done, gangways next 

 




 

After weeks of prepping little things and figures and a few weeks off for Josie work, starting to fill in things. The front part of the ship, so eventually I’ll have 2 subs alongside 

Part 2 

 

Added two more pieces of rigging etch and some more rigging.

A quick update, painted the rigging wires and touched up other parts.

Hi,
 
Here is Part 6.
 
This covers 4 of the 20, 3” guns and replaces the kit part with Pontos PE and turned brass.  These 4 guns are mounted in the bow and the stern and are simpler than the other 16 guns spread throughout the decks but do have a shield.
 

 
 
There are only 6 parts, 3 PE and 3 turned brass.
 

 
 
I like to use small PE scissors to remove the attachment nibs from the PE part and in the majority of cases there is no need to use a diamond file to clean up.
 

 
 
I drilled a 2mm hole in the corners of a small MDF block to hold the turned brass pedestals so the guns could be built up around them.  Photo shows the gun frame bent up and CA glued to the pedestal.
 

 
 
The 2 parts of the shield were bent to shape and being trial fitted.
 

 
 
I wanted to solder the shield together and used the method shown in a Paul Budzik (MSW member) video.  The liquid flux is applied to the parts and small slivers of solder are placed in the joint.  The soldering iron is held to the outside and the heat is quickly transferred through the thin PE.  Due to the quickness I was able to do one side at a time without affecting the other previously soldered side.
 

 
 
The 4 shields soldered and cleaned up.  Didn't touch the insides as will never be seen and happy how first attempt turned out...some better than others.
 

 
 
The barrel was super glued in place.
 

 
 
The completed guns were CA glued to toothpick/cocktail sticks for painting.  The bond is easily broken when time to install.
 

 
 
The guns were primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 and then top coated with Tamiya lacquers.  These guns are mostly hidden in the hull with barely the barrels sticking out.
 

 

 
 
YouTube link
 
 
 
 
Cheers
Slog

Thanks for all the likes and comments.
 
Part 5 is now done.
 
For mounting the hull I used M5 nuts and bolts, which will allow me to use Pontos pedestals as shown in Richmond’s log if I choose to when it comes time to mount the ship permanently.
 

 
 
I made a temporary baseboard with 12mm MDF, a couple of wood strip glued to the 2 long sides and some 18mm wood dowel. This allows me to work on the ship without worrying about knocking bits off when manhandling it.
 

 
 
To allow me to mount the ship in a semi-permanent state I wanted to paint the lower hull.  After final wet sanding I wiped the hull down with IPA and then followed this with an automotive painters tack cloth.  The grey 1500 primer showed up some rough areas at the stern and bow.  This was cleaned up with a wet sand using 2000 grit wet & Dry.
 
 

 
 
I started airbrushing on Tamiya Lacquer paint dull red but it was becoming tedious so blasted the hull with Tamiya aerosol TS-33 dull red and achieved satisfactory results to me.
 

 
 
Then it was on to the 6” guns.  I used Richmond’s tip of dispensing the CA glue onto a candle which greatly extends it’s working time.
 

 
 
The pink Mr Surfacer 1500 was used to prime the guns, this was done before the decision to swap to the grey 1500 used for the hull.  The grey sprays the same as the black 1500 so was happy for the switch.
 

 
 
The guns were top coated with Tamiya’s lacquer LP-14, one of the 4 IJN arsenal paints.  This is the colour I will use throughout. Tamiya’s LP lacquer range is a joy to use.
 

 
 
Like Richmond I sprayed up the lower gun deck in case you can see past the 6” gun ports but more so for airbrush practice and to test the 2 linoleum colours for preference down the track, XF-79 & LP-17.
 
Rather than force the hull tops apart to get the lower deck in, I scored and snapped it down the middle and installed in 2 halves.  I gave a quick varnish to the temporary baseboard using an aerosol can just to make wiping down easier. It's a temp base so wasn't fussy on finish.
 

 
 
The YouTube Video
 
 
 
Well, my Christmas holidays are over after today so progress will become more sporadic again.
 
Cheers
Slog

Thanks for the comments and likes.
 
After twisting Richmond’s arm, the starting gun has been fired and we are off at a sprint.  Part 3 deals with removing extraneous mouldings and making holes, all in preparation for the Pontos details.
 
Just a note about the pictures.  I don’t intend to take any still photos, relying instead on taking screen grabs from the video’s so apologise in advance for having my grubby little fingers in every shot.
 
First up is to go through the Pontos and MK1 instructions and highlight everything to be removed.  I used black marker for the Pontos stuff and red for the MK1 items.
 

 
 
Removing the steps by scrapping with a round blade.  From watching many YouTube videos this seems a fairly standard method.
 

 
 
However it is pretty slow going so decided to try the home made chisels from old No.11 blades I make to remove parts from paper models.  This sped things up immensely and a step could be removed with one or two passes.  I still needed to do a final scrape with the round blade to avoid damaging the surrounding hull.
 

 
 
Next up is drilling all the holes for the PE hull steps.  Pontos provide photo etch templates for this work although it’s disappointing that Pontos don’t replace all hull steps (ladders?).  I will use the MK1 steps to cover the missing Pontos ones.  Unfortunately, the MK1 set doesn’t provide templates for their steps but I will utilise a Pontos template so that the spacing is consistent.  Pontos require a 0.4mm drill and a quick test on scrap styrene confirms the MK1 steps use this size as well.
 

 
 
Then on to the portholes. I centre marked the porthole with an old airbrush needle by eyeballing it.  Tried passing different size drills through the PE porthole until found one which just goes through. Turns out 1.5mm is the size. 1.6mm is just a fraction too tight.
 

 
 
With the porthole drilled out it was required to relieve the backside due to the thickness of the hull plastic being 2mm to 3mm. This equates to a real thickness of 400mm to 600mm!  The thick plastic spoils the look of the porthole.  I tried removing this with just a drill but hard work and decided to use a carbide burr in the Proxxon rotary drill to remove the bulk of it….with the obvious dangers!
 

 
 
By finishing slightly back with the carbide burr, a smaller drill could be used to remove the last fraction. Once the drill point touches my finger, it’s twist/check/twist/check etc until happy.
 

 
 
With the porthole…hole? drilled I thought I would show a comparison of both sets PE portholes.  Pontos on the left and MK1 on the right.  The Pontos one is so much more refined and delicate and these are what I will use.  The MK1 is quite chunky and bland in comparison.
 
I am aware that the PE portholes are incorrectly represented by sitting on the hull surface like this and in reality would barely be visible sitting behind the hull plates but they are provided and to be honest I like the effect so going to use them, which doesn’t require debating.
 

 
 
The YouTube link to the video in case anyone wants to listen to my dulcet tones.  
 
 
 
Cheers
Slog

Short post just to highlight a point in the mast build, have decided to fit photo etch rigging two pieces at a time this time as painting all six fitted at once was a nightmare to hand paint, honestly I was like Clarence the cross-eyed lion from the series Daktari for those old enough to remember this. 😂

Next goal was to mask of for painting, and paint. Then it was assembly top mast and do some rigging then fit etch ladders. Next stage is to fit more etch and more rigging and start working on the jib, but feeling when I get this mast fitted onto model I will have turned the last big corner. 🤞Take some photos and post, next time the mast shall be on ship and rigged. 😊 Then I’ll be a happy bunny. 🤛

Hi,
 
Here is Part 6.
 
This covers 4 of the 20, 3” guns and replaces the kit part with Pontos PE and turned brass.  These 4 guns are mounted in the bow and the stern and are simpler than the other 16 guns spread throughout the decks but do have a shield.
 

 
 
There are only 6 parts, 3 PE and 3 turned brass.
 

 
 
I like to use small PE scissors to remove the attachment nibs from the PE part and in the majority of cases there is no need to use a diamond file to clean up.
 

 
 
I drilled a 2mm hole in the corners of a small MDF block to hold the turned brass pedestals so the guns could be built up around them.  Photo shows the gun frame bent up and CA glued to the pedestal.
 

 
 
The 2 parts of the shield were bent to shape and being trial fitted.
 

 
 
I wanted to solder the shield together and used the method shown in a Paul Budzik (MSW member) video.  The liquid flux is applied to the parts and small slivers of solder are placed in the joint.  The soldering iron is held to the outside and the heat is quickly transferred through the thin PE.  Due to the quickness I was able to do one side at a time without affecting the other previously soldered side.
 

 
 
The 4 shields soldered and cleaned up.  Didn't touch the insides as will never be seen and happy how first attempt turned out...some better than others.
 

 
 
The barrel was super glued in place.
 

 
 
The completed guns were CA glued to toothpick/cocktail sticks for painting.  The bond is easily broken when time to install.
 

 
 
The guns were primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 and then top coated with Tamiya lacquers.  These guns are mostly hidden in the hull with barely the barrels sticking out.
 

 

 
 
YouTube link
 
 
 
 
Cheers
Slog

Hi,
 
Here is Part 6.
 
This covers 4 of the 20, 3” guns and replaces the kit part with Pontos PE and turned brass.  These 4 guns are mounted in the bow and the stern and are simpler than the other 16 guns spread throughout the decks but do have a shield.
 

 
 
There are only 6 parts, 3 PE and 3 turned brass.
 

 
 
I like to use small PE scissors to remove the attachment nibs from the PE part and in the majority of cases there is no need to use a diamond file to clean up.
 

 
 
I drilled a 2mm hole in the corners of a small MDF block to hold the turned brass pedestals so the guns could be built up around them.  Photo shows the gun frame bent up and CA glued to the pedestal.
 

 
 
The 2 parts of the shield were bent to shape and being trial fitted.
 

 
 
I wanted to solder the shield together and used the method shown in a Paul Budzik (MSW member) video.  The liquid flux is applied to the parts and small slivers of solder are placed in the joint.  The soldering iron is held to the outside and the heat is quickly transferred through the thin PE.  Due to the quickness I was able to do one side at a time without affecting the other previously soldered side.
 

 
 
The 4 shields soldered and cleaned up.  Didn't touch the insides as will never be seen and happy how first attempt turned out...some better than others.
 

 
 
The barrel was super glued in place.
 

 
 
The completed guns were CA glued to toothpick/cocktail sticks for painting.  The bond is easily broken when time to install.
 

 
 
The guns were primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 and then top coated with Tamiya lacquers.  These guns are mostly hidden in the hull with barely the barrels sticking out.
 

 

 
 
YouTube link
 
 
 
 
Cheers
Slog

Thanks for all the likes and comments.
 
Part 5 is now done.
 
For mounting the hull I used M5 nuts and bolts, which will allow me to use Pontos pedestals as shown in Richmond’s log if I choose to when it comes time to mount the ship permanently.
 

 
 
I made a temporary baseboard with 12mm MDF, a couple of wood strip glued to the 2 long sides and some 18mm wood dowel. This allows me to work on the ship without worrying about knocking bits off when manhandling it.
 

 
 
To allow me to mount the ship in a semi-permanent state I wanted to paint the lower hull.  After final wet sanding I wiped the hull down with IPA and then followed this with an automotive painters tack cloth.  The grey 1500 primer showed up some rough areas at the stern and bow.  This was cleaned up with a wet sand using 2000 grit wet & Dry.
 
 

 
 
I started airbrushing on Tamiya Lacquer paint dull red but it was becoming tedious so blasted the hull with Tamiya aerosol TS-33 dull red and achieved satisfactory results to me.
 

 
 
Then it was on to the 6” guns.  I used Richmond’s tip of dispensing the CA glue onto a candle which greatly extends it’s working time.
 

 
 
The pink Mr Surfacer 1500 was used to prime the guns, this was done before the decision to swap to the grey 1500 used for the hull.  The grey sprays the same as the black 1500 so was happy for the switch.
 

 
 
The guns were top coated with Tamiya’s lacquer LP-14, one of the 4 IJN arsenal paints.  This is the colour I will use throughout. Tamiya’s LP lacquer range is a joy to use.
 

 
 
Like Richmond I sprayed up the lower gun deck in case you can see past the 6” gun ports but more so for airbrush practice and to test the 2 linoleum colours for preference down the track, XF-79 & LP-17.
 
Rather than force the hull tops apart to get the lower deck in, I scored and snapped it down the middle and installed in 2 halves.  I gave a quick varnish to the temporary baseboard using an aerosol can just to make wiping down easier. It's a temp base so wasn't fussy on finish.
 

 
 
The YouTube Video
 
 
 
Well, my Christmas holidays are over after today so progress will become more sporadic again.
 
Cheers
Slog

Hi,
 
Here is Part 6.
 
This covers 4 of the 20, 3” guns and replaces the kit part with Pontos PE and turned brass.  These 4 guns are mounted in the bow and the stern and are simpler than the other 16 guns spread throughout the decks but do have a shield.
 

 
 
There are only 6 parts, 3 PE and 3 turned brass.
 

 
 
I like to use small PE scissors to remove the attachment nibs from the PE part and in the majority of cases there is no need to use a diamond file to clean up.
 

 
 
I drilled a 2mm hole in the corners of a small MDF block to hold the turned brass pedestals so the guns could be built up around them.  Photo shows the gun frame bent up and CA glued to the pedestal.
 

 
 
The 2 parts of the shield were bent to shape and being trial fitted.
 

 
 
I wanted to solder the shield together and used the method shown in a Paul Budzik (MSW member) video.  The liquid flux is applied to the parts and small slivers of solder are placed in the joint.  The soldering iron is held to the outside and the heat is quickly transferred through the thin PE.  Due to the quickness I was able to do one side at a time without affecting the other previously soldered side.
 

 
 
The 4 shields soldered and cleaned up.  Didn't touch the insides as will never be seen and happy how first attempt turned out...some better than others.
 

 
 
The barrel was super glued in place.
 

 
 
The completed guns were CA glued to toothpick/cocktail sticks for painting.  The bond is easily broken when time to install.
 

 
 
The guns were primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 and then top coated with Tamiya lacquers.  These guns are mostly hidden in the hull with barely the barrels sticking out.
 

 

 
 
YouTube link
 
 
 
 
Cheers
Slog

Hi,
 
Here is Part 6.
 
This covers 4 of the 20, 3” guns and replaces the kit part with Pontos PE and turned brass.  These 4 guns are mounted in the bow and the stern and are simpler than the other 16 guns spread throughout the decks but do have a shield.
 

 
 
There are only 6 parts, 3 PE and 3 turned brass.
 

 
 
I like to use small PE scissors to remove the attachment nibs from the PE part and in the majority of cases there is no need to use a diamond file to clean up.
 

 
 
I drilled a 2mm hole in the corners of a small MDF block to hold the turned brass pedestals so the guns could be built up around them.  Photo shows the gun frame bent up and CA glued to the pedestal.
 

 
 
The 2 parts of the shield were bent to shape and being trial fitted.
 

 
 
I wanted to solder the shield together and used the method shown in a Paul Budzik (MSW member) video.  The liquid flux is applied to the parts and small slivers of solder are placed in the joint.  The soldering iron is held to the outside and the heat is quickly transferred through the thin PE.  Due to the quickness I was able to do one side at a time without affecting the other previously soldered side.
 

 
 
The 4 shields soldered and cleaned up.  Didn't touch the insides as will never be seen and happy how first attempt turned out...some better than others.
 

 
 
The barrel was super glued in place.
 

 
 
The completed guns were CA glued to toothpick/cocktail sticks for painting.  The bond is easily broken when time to install.
 

 
 
The guns were primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 and then top coated with Tamiya lacquers.  These guns are mostly hidden in the hull with barely the barrels sticking out.
 

 

 
 
YouTube link
 
 
 
 
Cheers
Slog

Hi,
 
Here is Part 6.
 
This covers 4 of the 20, 3” guns and replaces the kit part with Pontos PE and turned brass.  These 4 guns are mounted in the bow and the stern and are simpler than the other 16 guns spread throughout the decks but do have a shield.
 

 
 
There are only 6 parts, 3 PE and 3 turned brass.
 

 
 
I like to use small PE scissors to remove the attachment nibs from the PE part and in the majority of cases there is no need to use a diamond file to clean up.
 

 
 
I drilled a 2mm hole in the corners of a small MDF block to hold the turned brass pedestals so the guns could be built up around them.  Photo shows the gun frame bent up and CA glued to the pedestal.
 

 
 
The 2 parts of the shield were bent to shape and being trial fitted.
 

 
 
I wanted to solder the shield together and used the method shown in a Paul Budzik (MSW member) video.  The liquid flux is applied to the parts and small slivers of solder are placed in the joint.  The soldering iron is held to the outside and the heat is quickly transferred through the thin PE.  Due to the quickness I was able to do one side at a time without affecting the other previously soldered side.
 

 
 
The 4 shields soldered and cleaned up.  Didn't touch the insides as will never be seen and happy how first attempt turned out...some better than others.
 

 
 
The barrel was super glued in place.
 

 
 
The completed guns were CA glued to toothpick/cocktail sticks for painting.  The bond is easily broken when time to install.
 

 
 
The guns were primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 and then top coated with Tamiya lacquers.  These guns are mostly hidden in the hull with barely the barrels sticking out.
 

 

 
 
YouTube link
 
 
 
 
Cheers
Slog

Nifty little tips for working with the PE. Thanks.