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Keith Black
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Keith Black got a reaction from archjofo in USS Tennessee 1869 by Keith Black - scale 1:120 - Wood Hull Screw Frigate - ex Madawaska 1865
Once I had the three cowl vents completed I made a mockup of the deck where I could place the vents on the deck with the first try. I've included a couple of photos of one of the original model's cowl vents to show how far out of scale the original deck elements were.
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Keith Black got a reaction from archjofo in USS Tennessee 1869 by Keith Black - scale 1:120 - Wood Hull Screw Frigate - ex Madawaska 1865
The last deck elements I needed to make before completing the deck guns were the three cowl vents that go forward of the fore funnel. I'll show how I make these in hopes that in may help someone else who also has limited tools at their disposal.
1) Drill the opening for is to be the head and then turn using drill motor and jewelers file.
2) Once the head is turned cut it at a 45 degree angle and cut the tube at a 45 degree angle.
3) Mate the two with a generous supply of glue. (I wasn't able to figure a means of pinning the head and tube)
4) Because the head is so much larger than the tube, there is a lot of wood that needs to be removed with sandpaper and file to shape the two
pieces.
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Keith Black got a reaction from archjofo in USS Tennessee 1869 by Keith Black - scale 1:120 - Wood Hull Screw Frigate - ex Madawaska 1865
Model as it currently sits, back to making deck guns.
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Keith Black got a reaction from Scottish Guy in USS Tennessee 1869 by Keith Black - scale 1:120 - Wood Hull Screw Frigate - ex Madawaska 1865
Once I had the three cowl vents completed I made a mockup of the deck where I could place the vents on the deck with the first try. I've included a couple of photos of one of the original model's cowl vents to show how far out of scale the original deck elements were.
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Keith Black got a reaction from Scottish Guy in USS Tennessee 1869 by Keith Black - scale 1:120 - Wood Hull Screw Frigate - ex Madawaska 1865
The last deck elements I needed to make before completing the deck guns were the three cowl vents that go forward of the fore funnel. I'll show how I make these in hopes that in may help someone else who also has limited tools at their disposal.
1) Drill the opening for is to be the head and then turn using drill motor and jewelers file.
2) Once the head is turned cut it at a 45 degree angle and cut the tube at a 45 degree angle.
3) Mate the two with a generous supply of glue. (I wasn't able to figure a means of pinning the head and tube)
4) Because the head is so much larger than the tube, there is a lot of wood that needs to be removed with sandpaper and file to shape the two
pieces.
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Keith Black got a reaction from Scottish Guy in USS Tennessee 1869 by Keith Black - scale 1:120 - Wood Hull Screw Frigate - ex Madawaska 1865
Model as it currently sits, back to making deck guns.
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Keith Black got a reaction from Scotty W in USS Tennessee 1869 by Keith Black - scale 1:120 - Wood Hull Screw Frigate - ex Madawaska 1865
Once I had the three cowl vents completed I made a mockup of the deck where I could place the vents on the deck with the first try. I've included a couple of photos of one of the original model's cowl vents to show how far out of scale the original deck elements were.
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Keith Black got a reaction from kgstakes in USS Tennessee 1869 by Keith Black - scale 1:120 - Wood Hull Screw Frigate - ex Madawaska 1865
The last deck elements I needed to make before completing the deck guns were the three cowl vents that go forward of the fore funnel. I'll show how I make these in hopes that in may help someone else who also has limited tools at their disposal.
1) Drill the opening for is to be the head and then turn using drill motor and jewelers file.
2) Once the head is turned cut it at a 45 degree angle and cut the tube at a 45 degree angle.
3) Mate the two with a generous supply of glue. (I wasn't able to figure a means of pinning the head and tube)
4) Because the head is so much larger than the tube, there is a lot of wood that needs to be removed with sandpaper and file to shape the two
pieces.
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Keith Black reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
I'm also toying with the idea of vacuum forming the billows and then gluing them together at the buntline seams...this idea seams to have great possibilities. Then the final product will get a good coat of paint.
I can create wood molds that I can then put in my vacuum former to create the pieces to form the entire sail.......
This idea sounds good too......
Oh my mind is a whir of deep cosmic transient thoughts.......
Something genius will pop out I'm sure......
Rob
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Keith Black reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
I've decided I will make a mold out of plaster and form the wet paper sail to it to create the billowed sail.....
Pics will follow as I develop the mold......
Rob
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Keith Black got a reaction from Scotty W in USS Tennessee 1869 by Keith Black - scale 1:120 - Wood Hull Screw Frigate - ex Madawaska 1865
Model as it currently sits, back to making deck guns.
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Keith Black got a reaction from Knocklouder in USS Tennessee 1869 by Keith Black - scale 1:120 - Wood Hull Screw Frigate - ex Madawaska 1865
Model as it currently sits, back to making deck guns.
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Keith Black got a reaction from Bill Morrison in USS Tennessee 1869 by Keith Black - scale 1:120 - Wood Hull Screw Frigate - ex Madawaska 1865
Once I had the three cowl vents completed I made a mockup of the deck where I could place the vents on the deck with the first try. I've included a couple of photos of one of the original model's cowl vents to show how far out of scale the original deck elements were.
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Keith Black got a reaction from Boccherini in USS Tennessee 1869 by Keith Black - scale 1:120 - Wood Hull Screw Frigate - ex Madawaska 1865
The last deck elements I needed to make before completing the deck guns were the three cowl vents that go forward of the fore funnel. I'll show how I make these in hopes that in may help someone else who also has limited tools at their disposal.
1) Drill the opening for is to be the head and then turn using drill motor and jewelers file.
2) Once the head is turned cut it at a 45 degree angle and cut the tube at a 45 degree angle.
3) Mate the two with a generous supply of glue. (I wasn't able to figure a means of pinning the head and tube)
4) Because the head is so much larger than the tube, there is a lot of wood that needs to be removed with sandpaper and file to shape the two
pieces.
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Keith Black reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
After the sail was dry, I shackled up the sheets and reefed in the clews.
Still have to add the reef points, the leach lines, clew lines and the downhauls.
But I'm getting there...and then the mast will get stepped into the hull.
Rob
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Keith Black reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
Added the rest of the upper topsail rigging. Just a few touch-ups and some detailing left.
I'll step the mast..then begin the main shrouds. I have to swing the main mast port/starboard to make this the simplest it can be and that means I cannot fix the lower topsail until that work is complete.
Have a fine evening.
Rob
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Keith Black reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
Well...now that the bath remodel is done I can spend some time on the GR.
So I finished up the fore deck house and the next one with the long boats mounted. Here are some images..and one giving some reference with a penny for scale.
Rob
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Keith Black reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
Well I painted the copper metallic and it looks far better in my opinion...more like weathered muntz metal.
Rob
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Keith Black reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
Well I spent another hour today finishing up the copper plates and dull coating the copper. I placed the hull on her mount temporarily where she will be displayed.
I also posted a few of the room she will live in.
Now I need to focus on deadeye and chainplate location...on the channels.
Rob
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Keith Black reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
And another. I find that the entire process was easy....fast and effective. I've heard people tell me it took them weeks to plate their models. WEEKS!
Yikes. It probably took me 3 hours to plate this one side...and that includes the time cutting and pressing the tape plates....not just affixing them to the hull.
That took two one hour sessions.
Thanks for peekin in.
Rob
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Keith Black reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
Another view
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Keith Black reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
Spent another hour today amongs work. I finished the starboard side...short of the keel cap plates. those will go on after the port side is finished.
I think it looks pretty good...for rebels attempt.
Here is a pile of the prepped tape. and some finished pictures.
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Keith Black reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
Lastly..you have a perfectly processed copper tape with the individual seam lines represented....just lay the tape down on the hull and there you go.
If you really want the nail impressions...you can add them later. However I am not going that far, since the tape will incure some defects and at this scale will become too over exaggerated and become a distraction.
This process, that would normally take weeks to months(Cuz I work in spurts) will now take days if not hours. And cost me about $1.95 a roll of copper tape....Yippy. Fast and inexpensive..who doesn't like that?
Rob
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Keith Black reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
Further study(I probably already knew this), is directing me to *Keep it simple stupid*. After years of evaluation and comparative study..I've determined that all the copper nail marks are not really necessary at this scale..and even may be a distraction..since scale and the evolution of time and wear, leaves its mark on installed copper plates...thus diminishing and even hiding these construction artifacts... as demonstrated by these examples. In MY View.
Far too much detail...thus, far too much texture.
Rob
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Keith Black reacted to mtaylor in Hull bottom paint/colour used in 1812 era
There's been a lot of argument over painting, etc. of these vessels. The catch is they were quickly built and not expected to last more than a year or so and as such much of the carpentry was rather rough.
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