Paddy

The limber boards are installed but not permanently should I decide to change them. I did make two applications of Danish Oil natural so I could see how the plank end seams would look. Any comments or suggestions are more than welcome.
 
I’ll start trying now how to form the garboard strake into the concave section next to the keel. Is this a case requiring the soaking of the cherry in boiling water and clamping to a form?



 
 
 

The limber boards are installed but not permanently should I decide to change them. I did make two applications of Danish Oil natural so I could see how the plank end seams would look. Any comments or suggestions are more than welcome.
 
I’ll start trying now how to form the garboard strake into the concave section next to the keel. Is this a case requiring the soaking of the cherry in boiling water and clamping to a form?



 
 
 

The limber boards are installed but not permanently should I decide to change them. I did make two applications of Danish Oil natural so I could see how the plank end seams would look. Any comments or suggestions are more than welcome.
 
I’ll start trying now how to form the garboard strake into the concave section next to the keel. Is this a case requiring the soaking of the cherry in boiling water and clamping to a form?



 
 
 

Hope I’m not smothering all of you with my minutia but here is what I arrived at to cut the bevel into the limber board. My second idea this morning didn’t work out so out came the trusty scraper blades. After marking some limit lines on the rectangular beam I cut to fit in the limber board trough I clamped it down and began to plane away. Taking even pressure light cuts along the length of the beam and checking the limit lines often the bevel was soon formed and consistent from end to end. I was indeed pleased with the way it went.
 
Yes, the keelson is curved but the limber board is not.
 

Hope I’m not smothering all of you with my minutia but here is what I arrived at to cut the bevel into the limber board. My second idea this morning didn’t work out so out came the trusty scraper blades. After marking some limit lines on the rectangular beam I cut to fit in the limber board trough I clamped it down and began to plane away. Taking even pressure light cuts along the length of the beam and checking the limit lines often the bevel was soon formed and consistent from end to end. I was indeed pleased with the way it went.
 
Yes, the keelson is curved but the limber board is not.
 

You’re very welcome Antony.
 
I have now arrived at the time to move forward to the next step. My framing is far from perfect but I think I’ve reach the point of diminishing returns. There are a few low spots on a couple of the interior frames on the inside but I do believe those will be taken care of when planking and ceilings are installed. Fingers crossed....... we’ll see.
 
I have installed the keelson and will now decide what process to start next. I do have a few logs I can study that should get me on my way here.
 

Installing the limber strakes now. While the glue is curing on the last limber strake I’ve started fitting a limber board. The fitting is a bit tedious. Have already thrown one in the trash bin.     
 

 

Installing the limber strakes now. While the glue is curing on the last limber strake I’ve started fitting a limber board. The fitting is a bit tedious. Have already thrown one in the trash bin.     
 

 

Hi all,
 
First off I must apologize for being tardy in responding to your kind words and comments.
It is the bane of this time of year for me when my part time retirement job becomes a fulltime
job and unfortunately starting Monday and for the next 20 days becomes an overtime job.
Oh well it's the price I pay for a lot of time off in the winter.
 
Thank you Greg.
 
Thanks Mark. I was pleasantly surprised on how the case came out.
 
Thank you Grant.
 
Thanks Bob, Hard to say right now but knowing me both will get attention just not sure which
will be primary and which secondary. It could change from week to week too.
 
Thanks Kevin, the end is a happy/sad time for me too.
 
Ok here we go.
 
To finish off the base of the case I purchased some molding which enclosed the top but
still allows for removal. It was all stained and sealed with polyurethane. I then attached the
cross section to the base by drilling through the base and into the keel and then screwed the
keel to the base.
 

 
And here she is in the completed case.
 

 

 
And some more pictures out of the case.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Again I would like to thank Russ for all of his hard work in the beginning making this
project possible and for his help and encouragement throughout not just mine but
everyone’s builds. And then to all of you who continually helped, encouraged and
proofed my efforts I give a heart felt thank you too.

Attempted my first detail bit today? Installed the simulated copper bolts that tie the keelson to the keel. I decided to leave them just a little proud of the keelson but if anyone knows that they should be flush with the top of the keelson please let me know. It’s not too late to file them down at this point.
 


 
 

Attempted my first detail bit today? Installed the simulated copper bolts that tie the keelson to the keel. I decided to leave them just a little proud of the keelson but if anyone knows that they should be flush with the top of the keelson please let me know. It’s not too late to file them down at this point.
 


 
 

You’re very welcome Antony.
 
I have now arrived at the time to move forward to the next step. My framing is far from perfect but I think I’ve reach the point of diminishing returns. There are a few low spots on a couple of the interior frames on the inside but I do believe those will be taken care of when planking and ceilings are installed. Fingers crossed....... we’ll see.
 
I have installed the keelson and will now decide what process to start next. I do have a few logs I can study that should get me on my way here.
 

Attempted my first detail bit today? Installed the simulated copper bolts that tie the keelson to the keel. I decided to leave them just a little proud of the keelson but if anyone knows that they should be flush with the top of the keelson please let me know. It’s not too late to file them down at this point.
 


 
 

You’re very welcome Antony.
 
I have now arrived at the time to move forward to the next step. My framing is far from perfect but I think I’ve reach the point of diminishing returns. There are a few low spots on a couple of the interior frames on the inside but I do believe those will be taken care of when planking and ceilings are installed. Fingers crossed....... we’ll see.
 
I have installed the keelson and will now decide what process to start next. I do have a few logs I can study that should get me on my way here.
 

Thanks Thomas.
 
The guns have now been made up. As I previously indicated when I did deck planking on both sides of the gun deck, my choice was to do all four guns. The guns are my next departure from true scratch building. Without a lathe, I simply did not want to try turning the cannon barrels, although I suspect that given enough time and effort they could have been done from wood. I bought acrylic gun barrels from The Lumberyard that fit the plan dimensions almost exactly. I also chose to buy a sheet of their laser cut pear carriage parts. After assembling the parts, I made and added various eye and ring bolts, the quoins and the cap squares and their hinges.
 
Next, the guns will be mounted and rigged.
 
Bob

You’re very welcome Antony.
 
I have now arrived at the time to move forward to the next step. My framing is far from perfect but I think I’ve reach the point of diminishing returns. There are a few low spots on a couple of the interior frames on the inside but I do believe those will be taken care of when planking and ceilings are installed. Fingers crossed....... we’ll see.
 
I have installed the keelson and will now decide what process to start next. I do have a few logs I can study that should get me on my way here.
 

I've done the hatches and bitts. The hatch coamings are made from boxwood strip with lapped ends cut in. The gratings were my first ( but not last) concession to lack of power tools. Although I'm sure that there's a way to cut them by hand, I opted to use Model Expo cherry grating strips.
 
The bitts are also made from boxwood.The bitt pins are laminated strips to create the sheave openings. I've never had much luck cutting slots in solid pieces. The sheaves are slices of walnut dowel. The round portion at the top of the pins was done by hand sanding square boxwood strip. The gallows was cut from boxwood sheet.
 
I also drilled the holes for the eyebolts and ringbolts in the bulwarks and installed the eyebolts at this point. Next up are the guns.
 
Bob
 
 
 
 

You’re very welcome Antony.
 
I have now arrived at the time to move forward to the next step. My framing is far from perfect but I think I’ve reach the point of diminishing returns. There are a few low spots on a couple of the interior frames on the inside but I do believe those will be taken care of when planking and ceilings are installed. Fingers crossed....... we’ll see.
 
I have installed the keelson and will now decide what process to start next. I do have a few logs I can study that should get me on my way here.
 

Thanks for that.
 
Yes, the scrapers can be flexed although in this case I use them one-handed and do not flex them wanting a straight across cut while leveling out the frames.  I think the following will answer most of your questions.
 
Super-hard milled scrappers - http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32670&cat=1,310,41069
 
For sharpening I use a Veritas®  variable burnisher –
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32633&cat=1,310,41070&ap=1
 
but, you could use something like the Veritas® carbide burnisher which are not as expensive –
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32643&cat=1,310,41070&ap=1
 
For re-sharping or putting a 90 degree edge back on the scrapers I use the following file holder
Veritas® Jointer/Edger –
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32631&cat=1,43072,43089,32631
 
and an eight inch mill file.
 
The above items make it easy for an amateur like me to get an acceptable job I think.      
 
All in all a bit of an investment but I originally purchased these items for other shop projects, read that before model ships, but when I started milling my own wood I began using them to remove burn marks caused by the thickness sander and bringing the wood to a closer thickness dimension. Thinking about that is when I heard the penny drop.
 
I apologize if I got a bit windy on you Antony but there you have it.    
 
 
P.S. This is not an advertisement. The links have some good info about the items and can give the looker the confidence that he or she can use these wonderful tools that the old master woodworkers used and now they're almost forgotten. Love'um! 

All the filler blocks, sills and lintels are now in so tomorrow will be the moment of truth as I start the fairing in. You may notice that all the filler blocks are not cherry as I decided to use up some of the frame spacing beams that were spruce.
 

Primary work today on the inside of the frames. Starting to make progress I think. Still using the scrapers and the more I use them, for this task at least, the more I like them. Anyway, a photo at the end of today’s session.
 

Another big thanks to Jim and Donna. As impressive as their machines are their customer service is the best too.
 
May they prosper for many years to come.
 

After starting to fair the frames this morning by sanding and not liking my progress I got a couple of cabinet scrapers out. Also have a nice tool for burnishing an edge on a scraper and first rolled an edge of 5 degrees on one scraper and 10 degrees on another. The 10 degree seems to be about right for me in a short test but switch back and forth as I work. I really like the way the scrapers are working, though slow going (which supports Russ’s recommendation  ), with only a small amount of wood being removed in a pass and leaving a nice finish. The frames are leveling out good with the contours continuing to hold their shape.
 
I’m working the outside of the frames first but the scraper is going to work on the inside too.
 
Pleased at this point.
 

After starting to fair the frames this morning by sanding and not liking my progress I got a couple of cabinet scrapers out. Also have a nice tool for burnishing an edge on a scraper and first rolled an edge of 5 degrees on one scraper and 10 degrees on another. The 10 degree seems to be about right for me in a short test but switch back and forth as I work. I really like the way the scrapers are working, though slow going (which supports Russ’s recommendation  ), with only a small amount of wood being removed in a pass and leaving a nice finish. The frames are leveling out good with the contours continuing to hold their shape.
 
I’m working the outside of the frames first but the scraper is going to work on the inside too.
 
Pleased at this point.
 

After starting to fair the frames this morning by sanding and not liking my progress I got a couple of cabinet scrapers out. Also have a nice tool for burnishing an edge on a scraper and first rolled an edge of 5 degrees on one scraper and 10 degrees on another. The 10 degree seems to be about right for me in a short test but switch back and forth as I work. I really like the way the scrapers are working, though slow going (which supports Russ’s recommendation  ), with only a small amount of wood being removed in a pass and leaving a nice finish. The frames are leveling out good with the contours continuing to hold their shape.
 
I’m working the outside of the frames first but the scraper is going to work on the inside too.
 
Pleased at this point.