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rwiederrich

NRG Member
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About rwiederrich

  • Birthday 01/22/1962

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bremerton Washington
  • Interests
    Building Clipper ship models, Astronomy, telescope building, model railroading....

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  1. Just remember....there are no photos of Flying cloud....just models and speculation. Duncan McLean describes her hull and deck furniture the best.....however. The photos I provided of Glory of the Seas...McKay's last clipper Must be your best option. I cannot assume he would have done things differently. These images are *EVIDENCE*. Will you be correcting the kits cutwater and stem to replicate as she was originally built. Utilizing McKay's secret *Naval Hood* design? Contemporary paintings and models clearly get her bow wrong...simply sticking the figurehead on the stem. This photograph of Glory of the Seas....depicts McKay's famous *Naval Hood*. Note the location of the figurehead...on the Hood under the bowsprit! Drawing by Clipperfan. Rob
  2. In this close-up of Glory of the Seas...you can clearly see the fore topmast stay pass through the Bees....and back toward the root of the bowsprit...where it terminates. Not sure if McKay used this arrangement on Flying Cloud. She still sported single topsails. Near twenty years separates their evolutions.
  3. This painting of Flying Cloud clearly shows the stay arrangement.
  4. Well Harry, I know what McKay did on his last clipper, Glory of the Seas. Not shown in this image, is her jibboom stays...which were all(four per side) inserted along the front of the cathead. You can identify the bullheads.
  5. Paul...it is acceptable to simple knot the bunt at the block. (blocks are secured to the jackstays, or simply tied off at the yard) When the bunt line is in use, it is fed down the course of the sail and affixed to the rope edge of the foot of the sail. When sails are removed...you can simply knot the bunt line at the block...then finish running the line back through the top block and down to its belay point. You retain the bunt detail without the sail. Same with the clue lines. What I did once....to make it easy, was to tie the bunt off to the block eye....then wrap it around the yard, running the bunt back through the sheeve of the block snugging it up against itself and then running the line up to the top blocks Hope this helps? Rob
  6. Here is the real ship at port in San Fran Sisco..........and my version in the same latitude.
  7. When I built my Glory of the Seas...I wanted all the rigging to be visible. Nothing was left off...cept the stunsail booms and their rigging....since they were not present during the period I was basing my build on.
  8. I did the same for my Great Republic. Once the shrouds are fixed to all the masts the easy part comes by adding the yards.
  9. I always rig the topmast deadeyes and shrouds off model before I set the mast. Much easier that way.
  10. A little bump to the thread. I'm sorry I have been very inactive on this build as of late.....My daughters house purchase fell through....so she and her's are back home. I've been tackling the new roof install on my garage....so that too has held me up. And now its getting to spring...which means loads of yard work and outdoor activities. I hope to get back into the shop and organize my modeling thoughts...once again....soon. I hope everyone is having a smooth new year and coming spring. Rob
  11. My homemade hanks for the jib sails on my Great Republic Each hank is about 2mm in diameter.
  12. You're welcome. It's not a sure fix for the skilled and motivated modeler, who has a routined propensity for damaging their own models. We do what we can do.....
  13. Sorry for the vary long absence . family and moving stuff around...takes time. I'm not all back together again...but getting there. I see what you are talking about. when you drill a hole through a thin mast or yard...the point where you drilled becomes vary thin and fragile. especially along the edges on either side of the new drilled hole. this hole make the remaining material very weak and apt to breakage. What I do in this case is drill the hole.....then...fill the hole with CA glue. letting it set hard by using an accelerator. I then redrill out the hole. The Cured CA strengthens the fibers of the wood on either side of the hole by soaking into the wood fibers and aids in preventing the wood from fracturing again at this point. Rob
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