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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. rwiederrich
    One thing is for sure...it took a great quantity of treenails, and copper/iron bolts to fasten a large wooden framed ship together. My specific point was addressing the frame and keel fastening..not the inner or outer planking fastening(which I believe were more treenail then iron or copper bolts. Pictoral evidence of ample iron/copper pins securing framing/knees/overheads leads me to believe this. Since actual documented evidence is slim to nil, (concerning clipper construction).....the modeler has great license...and latitude..knowing his choice is within reasonable factual reality. My 2 cents. With that blather said......I commend you on this fantastic build. Rob
  2. rwiederrich
    Good diagrams..for sure..but from what I understand Webb and McKay build with iron/copper bolts flattened on the ends. From what I understand. Rob
  3. rwiederrich
    I'll size the main mast shrouds to their deadeyes tomorrow and hopefully have them all mounted..
  4. rwiederrich
    Finished up the formast and wooden ratlines. Ferreira had wood step ratlines.
  5. rwiederrich
    My wife who makes cakes says...(always) presentation is everything. I agree...thanks so much for your fine comments. My new build(Donald McKay) clipper will be set in a high sea and lots of water breaking over the rail.....and short sails set. Rob
  6. rwiederrich
    Fantastic work.....and fine attention to detail...just kinda sad it will all be lost when you deck her..cept for guns amidships that can be viewed from above. Rob
  7. rwiederrich
    I didn't use exothermic epoxy..I used an epoxy that creates little heat.....and ample release or stress release areas were created between the hull and plexy and outer framing of the water and the plexy...these areas were then filled with polysulfide to act like shock absorbers. It was finished over 6 months ago and no cracks or separation has occurred. Thanks for noticing... Rob
  8. rwiederrich
    Indeed...I recall seeing an image of the remains of the Glory of the Seas in Micheal Mjelde's book of the same name....where Guy and Hugh McKay (son and grandson) are standing on her remains and the hull and framing(Inner/outer) bolts are quite visible...and there are so many it doesn't look possible. I see now, why the scrapper wanted to burn her for the steel(and other metals) in her hull. I only assume the YA was build in like manner.
  9. rwiederrich
    Awesome work.....ribs are flying in place now.....
  10. rwiederrich
    Thanks everyone. Picking a model that needs heavy weathering is tricky...cuz you can go over board in a hurry. As far as the water...that was done by first cutting out a piece of plexi glass to fit the hull into...then damming up the edges and pouring in colored epoxy..which was teased as it set...tom create the uneven surface. Then a wash of color was added to the underneath to bring out the backwater look and to mimic a sludge laden surface. Many backwater ports have lots of sea growth and marine life inhabiting the calm water....Then the sea bottom was modeled and current artifacts added along with junk dumped over board. Lots of stuff to model to bring the entirety of the scene alive.
  11. rwiederrich
    Comparing the model to the actual ship(In picture) lets you know the extent of the weathering needed)
  12. rwiederrich
    Here are all three techniques being used. India ink wash, dry-brushing, and dusting.
  13. rwiederrich
    I tend to use light washes to depict highly sun bleached areas and I use India Inks diluted in Isypropal alcohol as my general wash. Either painted on or sprayed on(for larger coverage)..I then Use powders...namely cerium oxide..to highlight and to create the bleached weathered look you get from water exposure. It is easily applied and usually dry-brushed on. You can then spray on dull coat to seal if wanted. Using black, brown, red India ink singularly or in mixed quanitities.....does the trick. Always use pure isypropal alcohol...not denatured. Once evaporated you're left with a super detailed weathering. Reapply if necessary. Rob
  14. rwiederrich
    Well Ed...this is the trick. I model, making the most corrections as stated earlier(Stem/stern). Namely the bearing lines are corrected and such.. As far as the depth of the hold is concerned and the flatness of the bottom...I opted to go with the Revell design. Nobody I know would ever know the slight difference in bottom flatness between the two anyway. But most importantly, is the design of my dioramas many of the ships I build are set in. The Glory was a generally flat bottomed design unlike the CS..however that slight error is generally lost to the general observer... Where as the major(below waterline differences) are disguised by the modeled water I set my ships in. No below waterline changes will be made for my Donald McKay build..since she will be modeled in a heavy sea with those differences hidden by design.. The real modifications come above the waterline. Thanks for commenting. Rob
  15. rwiederrich
    Oh...I'll complete it...I began it before I finished the Ferreira..and now I need to focus on her before I set to delve into the Glory again. I'll poke around on her but I have to finish something. And I'm struggling with the new build of the Medium clipper Donald McKay...so I have to slow down...focus..focus. Thanks for the fine comments and encouragement. Rob
  16. rwiederrich
    Thanks Mark..that's OK......I'm not really worried..since this build is not your typical plank on frame wood model...which seams to get the majority of hits around here. I use multi media to build my models...and re-engineering of existing hulls. Hey.... it boils down to this simple desire....I want a particular ship model and no manufacturer makes it...so I use what I have to make it myself....by using the simplest and easiest means...re-engineering. Thanks again. Rob
  17. rwiederrich
    Fantastic rigging work.....not to mention the build itself. Rob
  18. rwiederrich
    Since there is Not much interest in my kind of build and since I am building 3 ships at the same time....Ferreira, Glory of the Seas, and now the Donald McKay. I will slack off on the Glory...while I finish the Ferreira...and begin on the hull and water for the McKay diorama....I'll just let this build log go dormant for a time. Rob
  19. rwiederrich
    Now it looks like I need to get onto the formast shrouds....but first...the Ferreira had reduced standing rigging as well as running and she had less backstays...so I need to reduce them to 3 per side. Once built and set...I'll begin the rigging.
  20. rwiederrich
    I worked on the Ferreira today and finished up the head gear and added the inner jib furled.
  21. rwiederrich
    Thanks Elia. Yes I build everything out of wood above the planksheer. The hull can take so long when you build it from wood(Plank on frame)...so I skip that and heavily modify a 1/96 Revell CS hull....making all the necessary cutwater changes and stern changes. With that done....the real fun begins in bulwark mods and deck houses and furniture. I'm trying to finish my CS mod of the Portuguese Ferreira.....before I begin finishing the Glory.. Thanks so much, since there is little to no presence of multi-medium builds here on MSW but what I post. Rob
  22. rwiederrich
    Clare...you have high resolution images of Young America.....? Care to share them with a fellow admirer? Rob
  23. rwiederrich
    Building in the fashion that you do...a simple coat of paint will not cover up any mistakes.... Watching with great anticipation. Rob(so is Donald)
  24. rwiederrich
    Looking awesome Ed.........Awesome. Rob
  25. rwiederrich
    I'm adding some new images, of the continued rigging oif the head rigging....I still need to add the bowsprit shrouds.

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