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rwiederrich
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Everything posted by rwiederrich
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Turned the model, ready for the starboard channels….. next time
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Work has been slow….. I just finished the mizzen port channels. I won’t be working on Staghound for several weeks from today. I have a large wedding to do sound for on Saturday and then we leave for a couple weeks on Monday for vacation. Rob
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So from what is understood, if sails are removed from the yards for a long stay in port...the booms would NOT be slung as depicted....they would be stored, again, within their prospective irons.....freeing the yards slings and ties to be used if needed. I suppose depicting your model as if she was in port or at sea, has a great impact on how you rig her. Mixing and matching standards of practice for a particular rigging scenario can be tricky to decipher. Especially so, if you want accuracy. Not so much if you are looking for what makes you happy, and looks good to you. Rob
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Thanks Pat. I wanted it to resemble early industrial. The McKay figurine is frosting on the cake. Rob
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Thanks for the pics Rich. I decided it was time to make the final stand. I reused an antique optical stand and modified it, by adding the two brackets to hold the model. I bolted the two brackets to the stand and then added a curio of Donald McKay and a clipper half model (which could be Staghound). Rob
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Fine work....but McKay clippers utilized, double channel chainplates...not single. Before you get too far. Rob
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Strength has a part to play in this design. The upper channel is only secured to the rail top and internal stanchions....the lower is secured to the planksheer bottom and massive waterways below that,...and the stanchions/frames. McLean clearly describes McKay clippers as being most strongly built and secure vessels.....emphasising the strength of their bolting and robust, construction. Double channels is accurate. Thanks for being curious enough to question it. Rob
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Rick...I might have missed this...but is this the limit of this build? Are you ending with a hull model? If so....she is outstanding. You've done a great job for sure. Nice detailing and clean application of all aspects of her build. Much to be proud of. Rob
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Finished up the main mast port channels. Rob
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Thanks Pat. I prefer to weather everything……so it looks used and exposed. Rob
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Had trouble with my browser, had to change it to get this sight to work. Here are some updates. Rob
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Setting up to drill for the chain plates. Rob
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One other thing we might be overlooking is.......The GR has her sails furled in the military fashion...where they group up in the middle of the yard, with the clew lines exiting there. With this furled arrangement...the fully retracted booms would rest atop the furled sail....and since the sail is bundled up mid yard...this would cause the booms to flex up atop of them. Giving the impression they are simply being tied off at the yard halliard. Looking at this close-up image you can see the boom atop the furled sail. The fore upper topsail yard exhibits the same condition. No free space between the boom and the yard. Furled Sail is between them. Many stunnsail booms were made from flexible, (but strong), bamboo. Rob
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Indeed....Like I said....the captain must have *trimmed* his vessel with this boom configuration while in port for some time....note; the jib boom is also retracted. Done when up against a pier or in port for an extended stay. Stowing the booms in this fashion does not permit an expeditious retraction of the boom when underway...to catch the slightest breeze. I still don't understand why the boom would be pushed nearly all the way out of its inner iron, then pulled all the way back to meet the opposite boom, tied up in this fashion. Unless you are *dressing* her rig. Thanks for the pic Jared. Rob
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Good Job and progress. I never understood why these kit manufacturers always store the stun-sl booms in this fashion? They remove the boom from the inside ironwork and elevate and cross them. I've not seen this in any images of any clippers I have ever modeled...or seen, just models.. You would have to push the boom out pretty far, to remove it from the inside iron......then pull it back in and then elevate and cross it, with the opposing boom...then tie them off. Possibly this was some captain's method of *trimming* his ship, while in port for some long stay. A lot of man hours for an unnecessary practice. Forgive the rant. You're nearing the finish line.......😁 Rob
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Great work....Ammonia.....? Magine that....... Rob
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She's coming along very nicely.....looks like you're rounding the corner soon. Rob
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Gary....when I work....I do tend to expedite my way around. Having the portico finished prior helped.....but the skylight . steering box, and companionway will need to be redone. I'm also going to redo the roof of the main cabin...by cutting it off and reducing the cabin height and contour. I pre-built all this stuff without the hull being finished.....so scaling tends to be off. I'll deal with that after the channels and chain plates are finished. Rob
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Working on milling the edge moulding on the port channels. Rob
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Finished up the poop fore bulkhead. Rob
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Some of the men from the earliest models, are still crisp and clean. I have a sprue of men from a 50's kits of the Cutty Sark. They are very well injected actually. I can only assume the gentleman Whom I got these wooden models from got his men from a Conne kit or somewhere like that. Rob
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Not much time to work on the aft cabin I haven’t secured the ladders , cus McLean’s description says the captains cabin “overlooked” the main deck. So I’m considering adding a small window on both sides. Rob
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To me honest Nic....I got them from a model maker years go, who was renting from my cousin and who abandoned his home and left all his stuff (Junk too) to my cousin. His entire stash of models (All wooden kits) He had a partially built a 1/96 Constitution and America ...and he had a pastle of these 1/8" men done up. I've used some on Glory of the Seas and some other things as well. All in 1/8". Some are pretty poorly done...others are serviceable. They were in the mix of model stuff I got. Rob
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I knew this data was in the folders...I just couldn't remember where. Thanks for pointing it out to me Rich. Now I'll make some comparisons and recalculate. Rob
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Indeed. the trick with any mast compilation is devising the doubling distances. We know how long each mast is...but how long the doublings are can be a tricky guess. Each mast must be included in each doubling...thus that must be included in the total mast height. These temp masts I made are only proximities at this point. This is why....I only made the foremast with doublings and the main and mizzen are single sticks. It's all part of the calculation process. Is there any data truly identifying her actual mast heights? Just throwing out ideas for evaluation....as an aid to others. Rob
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