Fernando E

Day 24 keelson
 
good evening everyone
 
well i have made it this far, no where as nice and tidy as others that i have seen, but i do tend to show it as it is, and as stated many times before, i never like what i have produced, im allways wanting to do better and lol never achieving it, however the the admiral loves it and so does my doggie
 
the upper keel. i thought would be a two minute job, as i have been test fitting as the frames went in, WRONG it has taken me hours to get a decent fit on 80% the stern one will wait until tomorrow

thank you
 
been getting dark over here much earlier, and the flash is kicking in, mading the wood appear quite washed out, not had many outside photos of this build, but this is one of them, i did go for the cheaper option, and maybe there is a more of a mismatch in wood colours, BUT, i also never expected it to come together like it has, so im more than happy

good evening everyone
 
day 23  transom timbers fitted
 
the last frame (57) caused me a bit of trouble, it is wider than the jig, so was lifting the keel away from the jig base, im glad i spotted it before fixing the stern timbers in, all i had to do was fair them off roughly and it dropped back into place
 
the timbers themselves all fitted exactly as per the instructions, and i also pinned them into position
 
what is the proper name for the stern timbers? sorted
 

 
nearely made a big mistake tonight and put the deck mounts in the wrong position, I presumed the blue line on the plans was where the boards go, but looking ahead, i could see that the cannons would be far to high
so i checked another build and found the blue line refers to the top of the deck, which means i would have been 7mm to high, the build i found was after he had actually finished  and had to rip it all out
so i have protected the plans with tracing paper, and drawn a new line under that, so i now have my deck beam heights
 

 

good evening everyone
 
Day 21 last of the cants
 
been a quite week, lots of things happening, and not a lot of boat building, but today the last of the stern cants were put in, that leave the hawse timbers and stern timbers, 
 
Parts 2 and 3 arrived and i will show photos at a later date 

Thank you for publishing this picture. It really gives us a sense of how large the model is and how complicated. This is going to be a great model, no doubt.
 
Yves

You're doing this real quick and those frames look great, and smooth.
 
Nice straight keel line too.
 

good evening everyome
 
Day 19 full frames and cants
 
i delayed putting the cants in for as long as possible, they seamed quite difficult, so best to leave them, but the time had to come
 
i may have mentioned it previously. that there are laser etched lines on a lot of the ribs, these provide a rough fairing line, 

so the same goes for the cants, also there is a angle template provided for each numbered cant to help achieve the correct angle, this template is to set up the bench sander at the correct angle, mine kept moving so i devised my own answer by gluing the template to the cant and then sanding to the correct line, it worked


having done that, i then found i did not have enough room to get access to pin the cants, 
so
i removed the top level of the jig
glued starboard cants 2 to 7 in position, when the glue set, i removed the hull from the frame to pin, this will be repeated on the stbd side

 
 




the hull drops back into the jig quite easy, im not sure how difficult its going to be to put the top level back on

 
 

Hello dear friends,
thank you all for your kind words, feedback and comments. I am pleased, you enjoyed the pics from progress.
Well, Sovereign of the Seas is is approximately in 1/90 scale, and Royal Katherine in 1/55, she is much more larger, but in the photos it doesn't seem that way. On the other hand, the SoS was a huge ship and in 1/90 scale it's a great model.
 
 
Hello Jan, 
I make all ropes myself using ordinary ropewalk from Amati.
And about top-ropes - no problem, I am grateful for feedback and notification of possible errors. Exactly, I made them according to Anderson; in fact the rope on starboard side is placed a little higher - it should have been approximately in the middle, but there is a metal reinforcement inside the mast and this did not allow me drill a hole through. 
But I was already trying to move the rope a little lower to make it even more in line with reality. It's a bit visible here on the masthead. The top-rope on main mast is meanwhile without change:
 
https://www.modelforum.cz/download/file.php?id=1617212
 
 I found inspiration for example here at this museum model:

 
https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/65964.html
Hello Alan, 
In fact, all these parts are hand made, I use common tools. I gradually add layers and glue them together, then I cut each newly glued layer with a scalpel. Finally, I sand the edges and close them with a glue.
 
***********************************************
Yesterday I finished  ratlines on starboard shrouds, now I will continue on the other side and also add the upper catharpins (by Lees):
 

 
 
Have a nice day and enjoy the pics. 
 
 
 

So like other, I have been watching the rebuilding of the Tally Ho yacht by Leo of Sampson Boat  Co. in Sequim OR.  Looking for a new challenge, I thought of scratch building one as he his restoring the original one.  Adding his changes into my design.  So contracted ASA (Albert Strange  Associates) in the UK, and purchased a set of plans.  I have built many kits over the years, but never scratch built one.  So this is going to be an adventure in skills and learning.  I welcome all comments and ideas.  I forgot about this site, so I am going to upload my progress so far.  I am taking liberties on certain construction details.  Like instead of using a LEAD keel, I made mine out of 6061 aluminum bar stock.   If you are a fan of Leo's YouTube videos, you will notice hidden gems from the show in my photos.

And here are the current photos of the model as it looks these days:
 

I slightly shortened the length of the main and front yards to more closely match the proportions of the real ship.
 
Previous version:
 

 
 
current version:
 

 

Backstays and topmast + togallant shrouds.....

 
And other rigging.....
 

 

The corwfeet on round tops with hand made wooden blocks:

Although the masts of the Royal Katherine model are based on the proportions of Lenox's masts in Endsor's book, I found the mastheads too short and decided to make a radical adjustment.
 

 
 
Original appearance:

 

 
Thanks to this change the mastheads have the exact length now:

And finally it was time for the rigging ....

Here I have started with top-ropes. Wooden blocks are also modified to achieve more realistic look as it was on 17th century English ships ......

 

Completely assembled masts:
 

I will use CNC blocks from HISModel, for a long time I am very satisfied with high level of quality and service of this eshop. 
https://www.hismodel.com/articles-category-1
https://www.hismodel.com/articles-category-19
 
In addition, I can save a lot of time than if I made everything by hand. I tried it as well, but I would spend about a whole year to make my own wooden block. Time is too precious for me.
 

And here they are during the completion:
 

The tops are made mostly of card, but I also used wooden ribs to achieve higher solidity:

Masts, their parts and all yards are completely handmade. The biggest yard is more than 50 cm long.
Here are some drawings from Endsor's book dedicated to Lenox, from which I took dimensions and proportions of masts and yards and adapted them for my RK.

Hi Doris,
 
Thanks for the update!
Stunning quality as ever....
 
Jan Dirk

Hello everybody,
thank you for your comments and support. These days I continue with masting and rigging of the model. Plenty of details are created according to these two books : Lees - The masting and rigging of English ships of war (1625 -1860)  and Anderson R.C. The Rigging of Ships 1600-1720.
I would like to build my model in the most realistic form as possible.
 
Well, I use copper or brass wires coated with black paint and shape them with various tweezers. More complicated parts are made from several parts, which I assemble together then. Here is one of the wires which I use:
https://www.hismodel.com/articles-detail-1672
 
Moreover, I also use photo etched parts - mainly for tiny details. They are high quality and relatively strong. I purchase them here together with other accessories:
 
https://www.hismodel.com/articles-detail-351
https://www.hismodel.com/articles-category-20
 
 
And finally, here are photos from progress on the model....
First part of rigging on cannons and finished doors on bulkheads:

Soon after opening the box, I realized that A.L. took several obvious artistic licenses in the design of the model. I could not really understand the reason for that and I found that a bit disappointing. If I can, I will try to correct at least some of these inaccuracies to bring the look of the ship more in line with the existing pictures of her replica available on the web.
 
After assembling the basic structure, I started fairing the frames. In doing that, I found that I needed to shim the top of frame #6 in order to get the main deck to lie on top of the frames making a regular and not too sharp curvature.
 

 
I also added a shim on the contour of frame #5 to avoid a local depression of the planks. I also added the bottom to the openings of the decks which I painted black and glued the main deck.
 
At this point, I tackled the window openings on the transom that are obviously inaccurate. This how they look out of the box:
 

 
And this is how they look after my correction:
 

 
Finally, I put on the first two planks of the hull. It took me quite some time to shape the planks reasonably and at the end, this was the result:
 

 

 
It is not perfect, but as a first attempt I cannot complain too hard. The plank bends quite regularly around the bow and the sides of the ship.
 
This is all for now, any comment is welcome.
Thanks for looking and best regards,
D.
 
 
 

Mayflower 1620 - 2020
Dutch Cargo Fluyt - ca. 1608
Artesania Latina 1:64 scale
 
Hi all,
this is my first instalment of my first ship model. Ship modeling is a new genre for me, having built so far only aircraft plastic scale models. For this start-off of mine, I chose the kit of the Mayflower from Artesania Latina.
 
My choice was driven by its reasonable price and by its rating as a kit of medium difficulty. In addition, this month, on September 16th, it is exactly 400 years since when the Mayflower finally set out from Plymouth for her historical voyage that brought the Pilgrim Fathers to America after a first attempt from Southampton in August of the same year. I live in the Netherlands, in the outskirt of the city of Leiden, the city where the Pilgrims Fathers resided for 12 years before their departure. The city of Leiden is celebrating this anniversary with several events spread over the year. Considering all these connections, I though that the Mayflower was a nice and motivated choice for my first build.
 

 
The parts of the kit are of good wood quality and are quite precisely cut. The bulkheads and the keel need just a bit of filing to facilitate their assembling. This is the basic structure just assembled out of the box on my workbench.