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Guillermo Eduardo Madico

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  1. Hello Mike: Looking very good! The floor warped because the water from the glue was absolved quickly in the underside. To prevent this brush some water on the topside. If you add water on the top side after the PVA, it will actually warp back to the right form. Hope this help, G
  2. Thank you Rusty. I have completed the Q gallery freeze and I am happy with the result so I will give it a go to paint all. The final freeze will be smaller than the one below. I added some extra turquoise green to the margins to make the picture bigger than needed just in case. The original was painted at 5X and the figure was inspired by a fountain sculpture in Europe. It needs a little touch up but it is almost done. I will make to copies one mirror image for the other Q gallery and insert the image in Chuck’s PDF file to get it to
  3. One problem I find with acrylics is that because they dry fast they stay on top of the wood and the paint tend to ship out. I have solved the problem by mixing the acrylic paint with water-based wood stain conditioner. The mixture penetrates the wood in the first coat and never ship, the paint becomes fluid and much easier to apply with a brush, the time to dry is extended by 2 or 3 fold depending on the amount of wood conditioner. A on part acrylic, three part conditioner will require 5 coats to paint (recommended by Chuck) and will leave a finish that will last. The only in
  4. I seal the wood with water based stain conditioner and follow with water based polyurethane. I have tried several brands but recently I used the top coat below. The paints from this brand are absolutely matte and though it was worth a try with the translucent top coat. What I liked the most, is that the finish hardened really well after 2 days and there was no tackiness that you get with most finishes. The hull below the whales is finished with this product in my Whinshelsea log. Best, G
  5. Not all stains are created equal. Cuck recommended using Old Masters fruitwood gel stain. It gives a nice effect that looks like boxwood. I use a silicone art brush to clean dark areas that you want to highlight (available at woodcraft).
  6. Adding a little of Cobalt Drier will dry oil paint in about 1 hour. It tends to opaque the paint but I find that to be a good quality for ship models. Mate finishes look much better to scale to my eye. My 25 cents, G
  7. No problem, That first piece needs to be beveled before it is glued. Once you add the cover and the molding, the fore tip of the Q gallery will be ahead of the fore line. Also once you add the columns, the fore side of the column will touch the fore line. I glued the first piece, and worked the second lower piece with the model upside down. It is easier to work the aft bevel of that piece, the bevel against the hull, and to glue it parallel to the first piece (better perspective when you look from the top; both pieces match). Best, G
  8. Hello JJ: I think the placement it is perfect. The lower portion of the template corresponds to the first horizontal piece. The fore line is the tip of that first piece once you add the trapezoidal cover where the freeze is placed. The aft line is where the horizontal piece for the window goes. I highlighted the box the I marked on my build and the position looks exactly as yours with respect to the last gun port. Hope this help, G
  9. Wow, thank you Michael, Jean-Paul, JJ, and Rusty for your comments. Rusty, you have mentioned you used holly for decking before. Are there do’s and dont’s for Holly? Does the same blade in the table saw used for Yellow Cedar, will work? I worked today in a draft for the Qgallery freeze. Bellow is my starting point. Which me luck to turn this into a 4 color rendition with paint a brushes. The pencil draft is at 5X scale. Best G
  10. Thanks Matt, most of the credit goes to Chuck’s beautiful design. Thank you for those that are following my posts and for all the likes. I added the columns to the galleries. This was a lot of delicate work wit mini chisels and diamond files. The resin figures were painted as recommended by Chuck. I used an artist brush to add the stain into the shadow areas of the figures. Then I removed the stain to create highlights with a silicon artist brush. After 24 hours the figures were sealed. I got a macro lenses for my phone, you could see where the stain accumu
  11. Hello Reg, Very nice work! Nice color choice of the Kauri wood. What sizes of resin cannons did you used? Have you put any finish on them? Best, G
  12. Hello Greg: Best tools for doing this, including the bulkwards: battery operated Dremel at low speed with a cone cutter (the base cuts fast but the tip cuts slowly), and a Japanese cut file (iwasaki 150 medium cut) to finish it up (cuts fast and leaves a smooth surface). Hope this helps, G
  13. Thank you Fred and for all the likes. My plan is to draw and hand paint the figures at 3x to 5x and turn them into digital images I could shrink to size and place to fit the freezes. I have collected a bunch of images I like from sculptures and I am drafting them. I will post the paintings as I go. here is another drafted in an office PosIt at about 3x Bellow I adde the window seals The roof piece goes in Slate shingles with some weathering looking paint This help me build the Transom more c
  14. Thank you Rusty, Steve and Jorge and for all do click the likes. I do agree she is a beauty but most of the credit goes to Chuck’s wonderful design. I started the Qgalleries, I used the guide to mark the placement of the first peace. I found that the lower part of the Qgallery was easier to build upside down. The false window in the Transom was added next. I decided to paint the windows white. Not as fancy as Beckman’s ivory windows but they look ok. The toilet, upper part for the
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