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Guillermo Eduardo Madico

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  1. Hello Jeff: Add the last of the 5 strikes in the other side you you could compare both sides. Best, G
  2. Thank you Chuck and than you for all the likes. I have finished the first belt and thank goodness there were no surprises. I used Chuck´s supplied tick marks templates which saved a lot of time. I marked couple of planks to use them as templates. It is faster this way and I save the templates for the other side. The template is aligned to the plank and copied to the new plank. Then the belt sander removes the Eccles wood to the pencil line. A sand block does the rest. Template aligned with paper holders My plan for the plank joins for the belt displaced with paper holders Next the other side. Best, G
  3. Thank you Chuck; A small update. I have finished both wales. The first plank at the bow was narrowed to match the lower planks (to be added) rather than the black strake. As Chuck mentioned, at this point it starts to look like a frigate. I have used a combination of black water-based wood stain and water-based wood conditioner (1/3 + 2/3) six layers; sanding in between (1000 grid) to paint the wales and get a satin translucent black color reminiscent of ebony. It has just about as much reflective of light. Hope the pictures show it. Best, G
  4. I promised Jorge to show the whale near the counter. I planked the counter over the first layer of wales and the second layer of wale over it. It makes shaping the counter edges with a sanding block easy by using the hull lines as reference. The second layer covers the planking edges. Overlapping edges makes for a sound joint and the result is cleaner. Below is the black strike. I use files and a sand block to remove the wood from the end wale strikes next. Notice how sharp the angle is at the lower edge. I have not added the peace to support The rest of the hull planks. I will do that later. The finished edge. I will paint the edge black later. There will be more planking an sanding first. Best, G
  5. I have finished the port side wale. I used artist tape as a reference line. This worked great to guide the edge of the plank and to stop the glue from running. I glued the black strake first. I added the next strake but painted the plank edges black This is a detail of the black strake and the first wale strake with the edge painted I added all strakes and sanded it Painted 6 layers of diluted black paint (maybe 7) as Chuck recommends Detail of the finished wale Best, G
  6. Forgot to add, may saw blade is 0.036 inch thick. If you use a wider blade you will need to adjust up. G
  7. Looks great Jeff I see you got the micrometer with your saw. I have the exact one. Set it to 5 (painted a dot for reference because it takes mor than 3 turns per plank) see bellow then turn up tree full turns (3 times the dot) and the add two more stops until 15 (one full turn has stops at 5,10,15 and 20). This gave me the required thickness plus a little more to account for sanding. I used the recommended 3” diameter saw blade from previous posts and I got really good results. I ripped 1 plank from each billet (10 billets = 10 planks) and re-adjusted a second time (3 full turns up on 15, and two stops more to stop 5). I rip a second plank from each billet again (10 more planks). And so on. This way you only need to adjust the micrometer between plank rips. I got 37 planks per billet; so I only did 37 adjustments in the micrometer to rip all my billets into 3/64 thick planks for a total of 370 planks. When you are near 0 in the micrometer, reset it to 5 again after the last rip (don’t move the fence) readjust the position to touch the fence. Then start again from the beginning (above). hope this makes sense, G
  8. Hello Jeff: That bollard timber looks good. Measure the thickness of BS-1 to know how much you need to remove from the top part of BF-3. That will correct the problem. Hope this helps. G
  9. Thank you Chuck, Jean-Paul and Rusty. I enjoyed the challenge it was worth it to do the tabs. I finished both the port and sea sides gun ports next the whales. I was planing to place the center plank first taking measurements fro the plans and add the other 4 planks; two each side. Will that work? Best, G
  10. I am advancing the second side of the gun ports and doing the top tabs. I made 3 marks: the inner aligned with the vertical of the port, the second at the end of the diagonal cut, and the outer just for margins of error. This tabs tend to move right or left as you work them an need some room to adjust. I am using a wider plank (5/16 per Chuck instructions). Don’t cut the plank to exact length for this same reason. I marked with a pencil the with of the plank to fit the run. I used a 1/4 plank as reference. My belt sander got read of the excess wood close to the pencil line I used a diamond file and sanding block remove all the rest of the wood pass the pencil like The placed the 5/16 and 1/4 plank side by side to use the 1/4 plank as a template and sanded the 5/16 plank until both planks widths matched. I used a mini chisel to remove wood from the corners up to the middle mark to start the tab. Sorry about the pictures, they are one handed with my phone. I marked the diagonal cut shied of what needed an use a file to remove the wood from the corners. What ever amount you are thinking to remove, divided it in 3 and remove only a 3rd. It is easy to go over and remove too much. In the picture above, the left side is almost there but the right side needs more wood to be removed. I turn now to the mini chisel but the diamond file will do. I want to keep chart edges. I removed less than 1/64 of wood in the right side. The objective is to close the gap between the planks evenly (it is now about 2mm). The gap between the planks in the picture above is 1mm. I removed a little form both sides with the chisel. The picture below shows that the tab now fits the gap. It is almost done but notice that the top edge of the gun port need to be adjusted to follow the horizontal of the gun port. For this port I needed to remove wood from the horizontal part of the plank in the left side to bring the tab down a little (~ 1mm). I sanded a little more that side for a better fit and used the pencil to simulate caulking. Final test before gluing. The glued plank below before sanding. I am curious to find out how others made this tab top tabs. I may be over complicating this. best, G
  11. Hello Chuck: Looks fantastic. I really like the gratings. Could you if possible show side by side the cedar and the boxwood versions for the gratings? Do they look different? Love the slate pattern. G
  12. Hello Chuck; I found this in another forum post for Hornet plans for 1811 the link for the post is https://forum.game-labs.net/topic/7707-american-ship-collection-with-plans/page/6/ Hope they are helpful. G
  13. Hello Chuck: The “S” shaped frames look really cool in you cross section project. Designing the piece to be cut by laser must have been challenging. best, G
  14. Thank you Mike, I am considering other options, maybe hand painting, just grey-blue paint, and other ideas but has not settle for any. I was hopping others will adventure changes or opinions to evaluate my possibilities and to figure out if they are beyond my abilities. G

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