Antonio Vasquez

http://seymore-thecuttysark-abuildlog.blogspot.com/ 
this is the rigging for a Revell model of the Cutty Sark. Maybe you can get some information off of it.

i bought some loctite super glue in the .70oz bottle. i haven't got three quarters through the bottle and the tip is really getting hard to keep clean. i draw the glue to the tip and use a needle applicator to place the glue where i need it. i bought 150 glue lab dispensing tips off Amazon and they seem to work well for placing a Little glue where I need it. i put a needle in the end of the tip to keep air out as I work but the tip clogged , at the wider part.I had glue and air bubbles down the length of the tip as I was using it. Are these tips a one time use item? Any tips or advise would be welcomed.

hmm, maybe i will try wire. Thanks for the input everyone.

i have tried to put white glue on my foot ropes to stiffen them up so they hang naturally on the spars. that doesn't appear to be working very well. is there something else that works better?

 Now I have to stash this mast somewhere where it won’t get damaged while I continue the rest of the build.

 I am Epoxing some bamboo skewers to the inside of the masts to make them a little more stiffer . I am having to remount one of the yards on my first mass since I accidentally snapped it off when I was moving  I am having to remount one of the yards on my first mast since I accidentally snapped it off when I was moving out it, CRAP!

2 hours ago, russ said:

At a very small scale, you can take the tackle thread and tie it to the strap thread before you strap the block. Then wrap the strap around the block with the tackle thread already in place on the **** end of the block. Once you seize the tackle thread, it will be difficult to tell that you did not use the becket (loop) on the end of the block. It will also look less bulky. 

 

Russ

I’m sorry, I am not understanding your reply. “ you can take the tackle thread and tie it to the strap thread before you strap the block “ that has me confused.

 What is the best way to put a loop on each end of a 4 mm block?  I could use some thread to tie the block to the mast , and what it supposed to have a loop on the other end of the block and I’m not sure how to go about doing that.

 It was parchment paper that I was using I guess I’ll get wax paper try and see if it doesn’t separate as much .Thank you for the input

 I am using a wet pallet to put my pants in while I paint.  I am noticing that every time I paid with my brown Vallejo paint it starts to separate and gets a yellow oily substance on top.  This never happens with the black paint or the black primer that I use. Has anybody else experienced this ,or am I doing something wrong?

On 12/24/2018 at 6:35 AM, allanyed said:

Hi Antonio

Your photo appears to the booms tied to the spar with line instead of mounted with iron rings.   What ship/year/nation is your model?   The mounting varied with nation and era, but I do not believe they were ever tied with rope of any kind.  For example for British ships that carried stunsail booms there were two boom irons on each side of the yard.  For British ships the rings through which the booms passed lean forward 45 degrees up to 1850 then they were at 22.5 degrees.  They do not sit straight up on the spar nor do they lay in a flat plane as you show in your photo.  The outboard  ring through which the boom passes had a roller in them after 1773.   The inner ring through which the boom passes was hinged after 1773.  Dutch ships carried the booms abaft the yards.

The outer rings were fitted with straps and bolts to the end of the yard and the inner rings were about 1/3 of the length of the boom in from the end of the yard.

Hope this helps.  Lees shows some very detailed drawings of the boom irons. 

Allan

It is a 1/96 Constitution Revell model. I am replacing the plastic yards with wooden ones. The instructions said to “ lash the boom heels” I thought that’s what they meant. Ooops!

These blocks I ordered from Syren are really nice. I think it’s going to be really hard to get the line through those little holes.

Are the booms too far off of the yard?

My first set of wooden yards is ready for foot ropes and blocks. I’d like the footropes to be somewhat stiff. I used diluted white glue on my rope coils but I wonder if varnish would work better or not.

Anyone had any experience with these?

https://www.amazon.com/AIT-Handmade-Crafting-Exquisite-Watercolors/dp/B010KM5KPM

12 minutes ago, Jim Rogers said:

I have that same set of brushes. They are cheaply made and theirin lies the issue.

I wouldn’t mind spending a little more for good brushes if I knew what to buy.

 As I am painting I am noticing that the tips of my brushes continue to curl as well as separate.  I never leave my brush is soaking in water or solvent so I’m not sure whether tips are curling like they are. I purchased some Vallejo Acrylic paints and am very happy with the paint.  Is there a certain paint brush that works good with these paints?

I went ahead and sanded flats on the center of the boom after scribing lines with my plastic scriber.  I think it will be a lot more visible once it’s painted .

Thanks for explaining that to me. The info really helps.

No it is one solid piece of wood.  After looking at those pictures I thought about using wooden strips.  It would probably be a lot easier to sand that profile.

In the instruction box on the page it says “lash heels of booms”, what does that mean?  I know with the rig blocks and the foot ropes are but I’m not sure what the stirrups are.  Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I’d like to make the center part of the long yard six sided or eight sided. What is the easiest or best way to do this?

I’d like to make the long yard six or eight sided in the center. What is the easiest or best way to do this?

Thanks so much for the pictures, the detail is great.