canoe21

Very nice work, Elijah.  The bowsprit looks quite neat.  I had forgotten how tall that lower mast is! 

thanks Nils......and to all who hit the like button     there is a small update.....hoping to get more done today.
 
the starboard side is to get the shroud treatment.   added here are the fore stays at the bow.
 

 
the jig I made works great....yea......I'm kick'in myself for not making one sooner.
 

 
the shrouds are all tied now........waiting to be made permanent.
 

 

 
so tie them off and add the spreader bars are all that needs to be done.......then I can tie off the forward haul lines and make rope coils for them.  oh........and the few other things  

Lawrence and Jeff, thanks for stopping by and your nice comments.
 
Bob

Awesome you are truly an artist as well! 
Look forward to more!
 
Jeff

Thank you Lawrence and Jeff for checking in but sorry to say - - nothing new to report. 
I had to temporarily set my bow lion drawing trials aside to make a colored pencil painting of a ghost crab.  Don't laugh, it's something I promised to do to satisfy some of the folks at our National Colored Pencil Society chapter.  I am trying a new technique for the beach sand, using dissolved colored pencil and my airbrush. The rule is that everything put on paper must be colored pencil, no other medium allowed, otherwise it is mixed media.  So far not much luck.  Looks like I have to buy a set of water soluble pencils.
 
Instead of the bow lion as next on the agenda to make are the two ship's boats.  I plan to use that mold method everybody seems to advocate.  I did pretty good making that little dinghy for the sub, which is a tad smaller then what the Surabaya needs.  But I need to give that plug thing a go, otherwise I won't learn. 
 
Thanks Jeff for your very kind words and also for adding me as a friend. Where do live, if I may ask.
 
Cheers,

Hey Piet,
Just catching up on this marvellous build. Your workmanship is excellent! Lawrence might be early but in my case better to be late than never!
 
Jeff

Thanks, Russ, Denis, Mark for the compliments and all who clicked the Like button.
 
Decided to hang the dredges off the side of the boat at the stern. Hung the push boat from the stern davit but left the ropes long and loose in case I need to remove the pusher from its davit during later construction. For now the ropes are wound around the cleat with friction holding them fast.
 
Some progress pictures.
 

Small Update: 
 
I finished the winch and A-frame; wound the cable around the winch's two drums, then attached the pieces to the deck with medium CA (gap filling).  Used a drop of CA to hold the ends of the cable so I could wind them onto the drum, then another drop to hold the end of the wrap in place so it would not keep unwinding on me.  To attach the cable to the dredges I used 2 mm jewelry crimps to crimp the cable into a loop around the eyelet on each dredge,  For now the dredges are just placed on the stern deck until I decide how I want them to be permanently - on deck or lashed to side.
 
Photos follow:
 

 
Comments, critiques, suggestions always welcome.

Happy New Year everyone. I hope everyone has a happy, healthy and prosperous 2017.
 
Been distracted from the build with other interests, like ice boats, but I did manage to finally get the brass pieces soldered and painted. I definitely need more practice at soldering.   Photos of the progress so far are shown below:
 

 
Next challenge is getting the wire for the dredges wound around the winch drums in a realistic looking manner - so far that has been more a challenge than expected. But we will persevere.

Mark, it's 18W but has the power of a 60W due to some patented design.  The tip detaches using a phono jack connector from the main handle. According to the user instructions that accompanied it there is a digital heating element in the detachable tip. Here's what I found when I researched it.
 
"The Weller WPS18MP heats from room temperature to 900ºF in just 35 seconds... three times faster than a standard home/hobbyist soldering iron. So there’s less time spent waiting for the iron to get up to temperature. People who do a lot of soldering really like that.

In an industry-standard test, the Weller WPS18MP melted six solder joints in 324 seconds, compared to 977 seconds for a typical home/hobbyist iron. Three times faster again.
 
The basic design of the Weller WPS18 MP High Performance Soldering Iron is what makes it better. By utilizing patented power supply electronics combined with specially constructed tips, the 18-watt Weller WPS 18 MP delivers performance equivalent to that of atypical 60-watt iron. But the most dramatic difference is in the time required to go from a cold iron to working temperature."
 
It's working better now. I took some 600 grit emery paper and cleaned the tip till it had a shiny finish; then finally got it tinned. Now it's working much better. Solder melts almost instantly and flows well.  I guess it was just beginner's folly that was getting in the way
 
And yes, they will get painted black - I'm using Floquil's original formula Engine Black.

Visible progress, Jack. Practice makes perfect

Well, it's been a while since I update this build log. Spent most of my time trying to learn how to solder brass - a somewhat frustrating exercise.Then I got distracted by Chuck's miniature woodcarving project, which in turn further sidetracked me into doing an Adirondack [mountain] Santa for my granddaughter's Christmas present.  But I finally got the oyster dredges finished. Trying to file down some of the solder joints ended up breaking the connections, forcing me to re-solder (more frustration). Decided to leave the joints a little proud with the solder.  Photos below:
 
The jigs, asbestos board, and Weller brand iron (tip is rated at 900F)
 
The jigs turned out to be great collectors of the melted, now liquid, flux and seemed to act more as a heat sink. Solder took a long time to melt and flow. Those are 2 mm wide grooves in the wood, a bit too wide for the thin brass wire the kit provided; so keeping parts aligned and in contact became a huge issue for me.I did resort to using the white solder board and pins but the pins also acting as heat sinks.  I'm still working on a methodology for this.
 

 
The finished dredges
 

 
And Santa [with his pipe, snow shoes, and walking stick]
 

Well, i finally figured out how to solder brass. Not the best results but pretty good for a first time effort.  Haven't decided whether I want to leave them as a dirty worn look brass or paint them black.  (Don't have any Blacken-It solution).  Right now they are just dry fit in place.  This is the port side view. Starboard still needs the vertical roller. Oh and I have to plug the misaligned hole I cut in the channel.

Thanks Lawrence & Dennis for the advice and encouragement. Yes, I am slowly starting to get the hang of it. Got the two dredge roller support brackets soldered after several failed attempts Now I just have to do some fine tuning before I can install them. Photos will follow in a bit. And thanks to all who hit the Like button.
 
Question: What do you use to clean the brass parts after soldering? Vinegar, soap & water, ???

you'll succeed Jack........we're all pull'in for ya        I use a flux too........as well as the core that is in the solder rod.   I use a light electronic's solder.                    technique is half the battle.......all I can add is,   to insure that the joint to be soldered is clean.   I use a Q-tip to dab on a tiny amount of flux......then I heat it to activate the flux.  if the joint is hot enough,  touching it with the solder,  should be enough for it to melt into the joint.  as this is happening,  pull the iron away.....it won't be needed.   a little will go a long way  
 
I use steel wool to clean the tip of my Iron.......followed by what Lawrence does   a clean tip is a happy tip  

Flashback ...
 
The night before Augsburg was a long one as I wanted to discuss all things anchor with the savants present there.
 
So I prepared all the ropes and bits and it was not too bad, but still many details laying in the obscure.
 
So this what was prepared and discussed, the overhaul with all the valuable hints that I got will be done soon :-)
 
So please excuse some sloppy ropes, that was still work in progress :-)
 
First the anchor hanging at the hawse, cat block is already lowered.
 
 
 

 

 
Then the cat block is to be hooked in ...
 

 

 
Anchor being towed up by the cat tackle 
 

 

 
The anchor is saved by a rope (name? german Perturleine), that is fixed the way it is in Portsmouth - many do think that  was a bad idea ;-)
 
I always wondered that the clamp has no roll to minimize chafing, but actually I realized, there is no movement, the rope is just used statically.
 

 

 

 
Then the cat block is taken out, the anchor is hanging on the rope (that should go through the clamp, I forgot ...). The cat block is taken aside.
 

 

What a pity you couldn´t make it, you would have loved it. There were some other english speaking guests present :-)
 
And I was caught in the act, taking the chance to get all the authorities present to have a small anchor workshop - experimental archeology.
 

 
Thanks for archjofo for the picture!
 
XXXDAn

As the great model maker meeting in Augsburg (near Munich) is approaching, I found it necessary to just knot some of the loose ends together.
  The officer´s hammocks have been prepared already for a long time ...     ... and some more petiteness like a small desk and a chair for Mr Rivers the gunner ...     ... some of the lumber to be seen on contemporary pictures: (under-)deck chairs and packages wrapped in sail cloth.     And immediately we have some homeliness in the smallest confinements  ...             ... and soon all is shipshape und Bristol fashion for coming Saturday in Augsburg :-)   Cheers, Daniel

Thank you Gerhard!
  And now, what were those parts?   ...hihihihihi...   They were a provocation!!!   Why?!? As always, when i find obscure details, I just build and wait for the horrified outcries ;-)   These parts are the shoes for the fishing david, mentioned in Marquardt and described by Lee, but only found two very vague contemporary drawings that do not really define the form. The shoe serves for the david not to damage the hull or channels and also avoids it sliding sidewards.   To define the form of the shoe, of course the davit is necessary, just to fit like a shoe :-)     Some blocks help rectangular sanding. Eine erhöhte rechtwinklige Unterlage und ein fixer Führungs- und ein geführter Schleifklotz sorgen für geraden Abschluss.     As already done with the anchors, I used my Edding-technic ...     ... as the color shows nicely ...     ... if the sanding is getting even ...     ... also at the conus. Applied some paint and it is finished fast ;-)     And to see if the shoe fits, immediately applied to the place McKay suggests.     But that looks strange as the deadeyes are in the way. I think one more deadeye aback there is the opening for the chasing gun, that would be the mire appropriate placement also no hammock netting in the way there, which would facilitate handling a lot.   XXXDAn

Just do it ;-)
 
What is that now ?!?
 
  ...hihihihihihi...   XXXDAn

Thank you Sirs,
  now back to the front, doing some catting :-)   First mistreated some wood ...     ... rounding things up ...     ... and prepared for blackening.     And there it already hangs ...     ... depper darling, deeper ...     ... ohohoh hihihigher ...                 ... and all on top ...         I hope the next updates will get more exciting again :-)   XXXDAn

The assembly was even easier than expected ...             ... and once again had enough luck for the job :-)    
Cheers, DAniel

Ok, some more Brain Salad Surgery ...
  Nurse - scalpel, swab, scrapping certificate!     In those days, when I was still jung and inexperienced but full of zest and enthusiasm, those days that I was not yet able to do my own ropework, and then those days of often enjoying showing off the moving of the rudder, but by now the gear is looking a bit deranged, a tad tousled ...      ... so out came some brave cuts ...     ... but also the big table was shredded to pieces :-(     So carved a bar of blocks     ... same nice bondage with the 4 sisters ...     ... and the most difficult, the clearing off the traces of old glue, the patented kardan drill made it possible ...     ... and prepared the new tackles.  

Everything to delight you Gerhard, my pleasure!!!
  But then disaster, the eminent authority from my german forum destroyed my hope of getting more "like"s ...   ... "the securing thread of the hook should be done in figures of 8" he said, how can one do such a failure ...   ... so back into the ship yard and - this time with 3 spectacles one placed over the other - some micro chirurgic minimal invasive wizardry to satisfy my master.     Then on onto the other side ...     ... and with the experience even the smartening of the splice came out more ship shape and Bristol fashion.   Then used my drawing plate ...     ... to get the small toggle for the securing line.     And a small overview.     Looks great, but dear Dirk/Dubz started a discussion in our german forum about the rope extension, if this one was a correct feature. The chain is shown on many models, the rope not ...   XXXDAn

Thank you Mark for reminding me at this thesis, have to scan it again for ideas that escaped to me in the days.
 
Unbelievable, how certain topics get the full attention ;-)
  Thank you Sirs!!!   As I am told being jumpy, I jump from the far front to the far back of the boat - mind the fully framed marine-technological technical terms ;-)   So went on for the rudder pendents. Used a 1,5 mm Evergreen rod and made a core hole with 0,5 mm ...     ... and enlarged to 0,7 mm, lengthened to 1 mm and used a cherry miller to round the edges.    First trial with a properly smartened rope was far too thick ...      ... next trial with just the splice being smartened was far better in appearance.     Still a lashing for that the hook stays in place ...     ... and things are already in place.   XXXDAn