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W4LKR

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  1. Those parts look great. By the way I own the same Rikon grinder. I've mostly used it for restoring traditional woodworking tools, putting bevels on chisels and plane irons, and buffing rusted parts. I've never had a problem with it. If you ever want a piece to have a somewhat burnished look, a wire wheel can do it.
  2. I looked through RetiredGuy's build log of MSW Bluenose. Thank you for referring me to his build. It appears to be a top-notch job and is a source of inspiration. Looking at his stanchions though, I couldn't find any photo or mention of removing the bulwark extensions and installing stanchions in their places. Every photo in his log that shows a close-up of those areas shows the bulwark extensions still there. Later on he even paints them. To my eye his bulwark extensions and stanchions are indistinguishable from each other. This is probably a testament to his modeling abilities.
  3. Thanks everyone for the advice about removing the bulwark extensions. I was concerned about them looking different than the others but I never considered removing them, especially after the bulwarks are in place. So what is the technique? Do you use some temporary attachment between the extensions and the bulwark so you can cut them free out from under it later?
  4. I ran across Gary's video series when I was researching the Bluenose kit and have really enjoyed the parts I've watched. He's entertaining and you get the feeling he's just being himself and wants to share his passion with others. I've been watching the videos as I progress through build.
  5. Batons have been added between all bulkheads except the forward-most two (A & B). I can tell how much stronger the entire model is after completing this step. It seems that one or two of the bulkheads have been pulled just slightly out of square with the keel. I'm making note of these little mishaps but not necessarily committing to fixing them in this build. I want to avoid making this mistake in the future but I'm uncertain how much trouble it will cause me going forward. Next up is continuing to trim back the bulwark stanchions. Bulkheads A thru D have already been cut
  6. Thanks Yorky. Regarding #2, I've just finished installing the batons. I'll post some pics momentarily. It's good to know there's ample extra material in the kit. I may end up shimming the bulkheads with spare decking or planking materials, but before I go that far I'm going to attempt a wood putty fix. There's only three bulkheads that need it and I'm hopeful it will be less work. I think this makes four of us who are currently building Bluenose kits. I'm looking forward to following your build as well.
  7. That's going to be a great setup. I'm looking forward to seeing what you're able to create with the milling machine. The metal parts in my kit are similarly rough. I have a 3D printer so I've considered sketching some replacements in CAD and printing them, then painting with a metallic enamel to simulate metal parts. But having the ability to make real metal replacement parts would be way better.
  8. Thanks Ron, appreciate the encouragement! Congrats on starting your Bluenose! I look forward to following your progress and learning from your build. Another build I have followed is CPDDET's Bluenose. His kit had the exact same problem with the rear bulkheads not reaching the rabbet line. He fixed the issue by applying wood putty to extend just those bulkheads downward a fraction of an inch, then faired them as normal. I think I'm going to do the same rather than apply shim material to the entire bulkhead edge.
  9. I'm considering getting the Amati Keel Klamper. For anyone who owns or has used one, is the base heavy enough that it stays put when light force is applied to the model? Or do you have to screw it down to the workbench to really get the most benefit?
  10. I'm a bit of a tool nut as well. For me there's a higher level of satisfaction when I'm able to make something using a tool that I also made. My homemade keel clamp is nicer to look at than it is to use I'm afraid. Well, for certain tasks I'm sure it will be fine, but right now I'm needing something that holds the keel at two points further apart so it doesn't flex as much. I'm afraid I'm going to crack something the way it's clamped right now. Oddly enough the Amati Keel Klamper is hard to find in stock. Maybe there's a boom of new modelers in 2020. Once all the jigsaw puzzl
  11. I wanted to ask about your keel clamp. Early on in the project I noticed you were using a homemade clamp based on a mini tripod with ball head. That same thought went through my head a couple years ago but I ended up making a clamp without the ball head. I'm not real happy with how mine works so far. Then I noticed you switched to what looks like the Amati Keel Klamper in a few of the photos. What made you switch and how do you like it so far?
  12. I was afraid I'd swap them accidentally so I did label them all. Fortunately with this kit each bulkhead was engraved with the letter. I took it another step by coloring in the engraved letters with ink. Since they are uniform thickness I don't think it matters which face of each bulkhead is forward vs aft. This photo shows how the profile of the rear bulkheads are markedly different than those forward. I'm pretty sure they are all in the right locations.
  13. Thanks for the reminders about tapering. There is so much to getting this right. I appreciate the way you've explained it. Maybe I'm opening a can of worms but I'm going to ask anyway - is there any benefit to using CA vs wood glue? In my mind the wood glue gives you plenty of time to position the piece before it sets compared with CA, but they make some slow drying CA (relatively speaking). I'm thinking of the gels I've seen over the years that take up to a minute to set compared with the instant glues that set in 3 seconds or less. So far I've only used wood glue on this kit
  14. That would certainly cause some issues! I have double-checked and they are in the right sequence. One of the first things I did after removing each bulkhead from the part board was to label them with ink. As long as I don't forget my ABC's, I'll be ok.
  15. No it's pretty much identical on both sides. The bulkheads are all symmetrical and the notch for the keel is perfectly centered. Almost all of them slipped into the notches in the keel such that when they bottomed out in the notch the top of the bulkhead was even with the top of the keel. These aspects of the laser cutting seem to be spot on. I think several of them just come up short in their height. If I was more experienced with model building and was more concerned with minute accuracy than I currently am, I would probably make my own bulkheads from solid wood using the pla
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