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Jorge Hedges

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Everything posted by Jorge Hedges

  1. Thank you all for your great feedback, and taking the time to provide detailed information. Will definitely keep reading, and asking if it comes to that. And when about to pull the trigger, will advise, with the reason, and see what your feedback is once again. Appreciate it tons! Jorge
  2. Hello All! Trying to pick your brains here... Looking for opinions on Unimat vs. Sherline, why your pick, and would you go lathe only or with mill? Your input wanted... I'd like something not too complicated, as it will be my initial plunge to this type of tool, but I wouldn't want to waste money in something that I may get as a package, as opposed to buying afterwards separately (and more expensive probably). Would like to be able to input the measurement electronically, for precision sakes. Would this be a good package to start? https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHERLINE-4410-C-3-5-X-17-LATHE-METRIC-the-C-Package-INCH-SEE-PN-4400C/153087814518?hash=item23a4beab76:g:5noAAOSw1qtbPkxD In the meantime, will continue to read on both items... thanks, as always, for your help! Jorge
  3. Thanks! Just sent them a note to verify if the jacket with the plans/views is still on the book.
  4. Hello All! just purchased the Vanguard Models HMS Alert 1777 kit. Anyone have the AOTS Alert 1777 for sale, Or know where it can be obtained for a reasonably good price? Thanks! Jorge
  5. By the way, do you have any plans for it, or is it basically a build based on the article/book and you generated your own plans? It is definitely something different, and would love to work on something like it. It is really a one of a kind.
  6. Beautiful work!!! Level of detail on both the build and your log are perfect! Thank you for sharing this unique piece of work!
  7. Thanks for the square stock tip... I definitely have some. And great image of the Anatomy of the Ship - The Ships of Christoper Columbus. Thank you tons! Jorge
  8. Here's the start of the scratch ones... I think I have to reduce it a tad, and I definitely have to open the center a bit more. I think I will coat them in CA super thin for penetration, and make them stronger for the center work. Then I can sand and tint... or maybe tint first, CA coat, work, and sand... test phase! Any recommendations welcome! Regards, Jorge
  9. So, not much info found to date after searching for a couple of days on and off.... anyone have any image or picture of how the caravel deadeyes were rigged, and what type was used? I've see some kind of boxy ones, and others have mentioned the heart type. Also, in a Caravel, would they be tied down to a cleat, or some other fixing type was used? Not sure which one would be more period correct, and would love to improve the look of the mini-Mamoli kit. I am set for building them (as the size will be an issue for purchasing purposes), and would kike to rig correctly, so if any feedback/image can be shared with me, it will be greatly appreciated! Pics below are the best that I have found... Thanks, Jorge
  10. I guess they are. The postman just left me a book, so will check to see if it helps.
  11. Hello All! Wondering if there are deadeyes or other rigging gear for 1:106 scale ships, specifically the La Nina (Columbus era) type ship. Just because I like to torture myself.... Thanks! Jorge
  12. Hello All: Two quick questions... Who makes the best La Nina caravel kit? Why do you think it is the best kit? Look forward to your replies... would like to build one of my favorite vessels of all time... It is definitely impressive the use it was given for a vessel of that size, in an era of many unknowns, navigation-wise relative to knowledge of our globe. Thanks! Jorge
  13. Thanks, and sorry for the late reply... started to work once again out of home, so days have been longer than usual...!
  14. Gotcha; thank you tons! The difference is the vise installed on the table. Thanks again! Jorge
  15. Hello Jaager! Any pics you can share related to your bench/vise setup? I would like to see if I can apply your concept, even if having to use a variation of it. Thanks!
  16. Ok, adjusted last night everything. Clamped down the saw with 2 c-clamps, for testing sakes, and vibrations were markedly lower. So all in all, I have to put some kind of light isolation pad, and bolt down to the sturdy table at the garage... unit is pretty much usable, big time! Now, I have to make a cover from either wood or aluminum where the saw blade runs, so onto the next mini-project (pic below). I cut a 10mm pine or dense plywood piece (I really couldn't tell what wood), and the unit pretty much behaved well for the type and size of the wood. These rough cuts can definitely be sanded down as needed with my spindle sander, or files/sanding paper.... the " circle" attempt is about 1" diameter. All in all, saved money for the blades (any good recommendations for this scrollsaw), and most importantly, for the Byrnes Sander, which according to them, mine should be available within the next 3 weeks. Thank you all for the support!
  17. Perfect, thanks for all our input. Will definitely fine tune, affix to a wooden shop table I have (big and heavy), and then try it out. Thanks again! Jorge
  18. This is the hand me down scroll saw i have... will do some double checking on finer adjustments, and see if I can clamp down/bolt to the table to see what happens... I assume that if affixed to the table, vibrations will cease, and I may have saved some extra cash... for a Byrne's sander...! I think that this unit with good blades still has some life left for frame cutting. *crappy pic, BTW... I may get a better, detailed one...
  19. No, but was planning to do so after all adjustments are performed, as I have a wooden table in my garage for this and an oscillating sander. Thanks for the heads up!
  20. After opening CA, I store it in the fridge. It is the humidity of the air that causes the CA, with time, to become "gloopy" and "non-stickiness". I live in Puerto Rico close to the beach, so the humidity tends to damage/render useless CA if left out for some time. I have had to throw away half-full CA bottles, until I was told about the fridge trick. And mid you, I use Titebond II for my wood work; CA is for minor stuff and plastic and resin military miniature builds (1/35 scale)… a whole different world!
  21. Hello Gents! Need you to sell me why a scroll saw or a band saw. I have most of the tools already (Both Byrne's table saw and thickness sander, Proxxon mini table saw, etc...), and have currently have an older Craftsman scroll saw. Unit works, but it sure seems to jump hard (strong vibration up and down) when in operation. Already opened it up, lubricated, checked, and I can't find the source of the harsh vibration... maybe better adjustment on blade tension? Anyway, it doesn't help that the base is round, so I'm thinking of making a square aluminum base so I have a bigger platform that I can countersink/both it to the tool's round platform, and be able to even maybe clamp a fence, as I have seen in some woodworking sites. So, long story short... if this harsh vibration continues, and cant really use it for more delicate work, what brand and model of a band saw o scroll saw would you try to sell to me? I am assuming that the most use it will see if for frames, when I finally decide to do my own frame version of cross sections or full framed hull. Appreciate your input! Thanks, Jorge
  22. Hello! Quick question... anyone have a spare Mantua Panart Battle Station instruction booklet in English that can part with? I have an older version of the kit, and it only came with a plan sheet in Italian, and looking at some recent images and videos, so I could get a feel for the project, I noticed that newer versions have this instruction booklet now included. I have googled for this manual, as well as Model Expo, who has some instructions in their website, but no dice... Any helping hand out there with a link to instructions or an extra manual or scans? Thank you tons! Regards, Jorge
  23. Hello! Will start soon the deck planking of the Model Shipways Niagara Brig. Interested in determining what pattern is used for the laying of the same. Any diagram/image/pics greatly appreciated! Thanks, Jorge
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