hamilton

The transom was pretty easy to make. In the full-sized skiff it is built up out of edge-glued lumber, but I had some 3/32" basswood sheeting lying around that was perfect for the purpose, so I simplified things for the model. Offsets were taken from the plans and transferred to the basswood sheet. I then rough cut it and sanded it to final shape. The mounting of the transom turned out to be a bit tricky, though I think it also introduced me to a technique that will be used for the side planking and garboard strakes. The transom needs to be stable in its mounting to the transom frame, but it can't be glued on, since the boat will need to be removed from the skeleton at some point. I marked a centreline on the transom piece and used this as reference for dry mounting the transom on its frame. Once clamped in place, I marked the outlines of the angled transom frames on the inside of the transom itself. I then pre-drilled holes in the marked out areas and into the transom frame supports. I then tacked the transom in place using the small brass nails that come with every model kit (and that I have only ever used very sparingly).... Here are some images showing how this went. Enjoy! hamilton

The next stage is to set up the molds on the strongback. This was, again, very finicky but not difficult, and was greatly assisted by the use of a 1/4" x 1/8" ribband along the centre notches between the transom frame and mold 1. The first stage here was to mark the centre line on all the molds using the strongback centre line as reference. For this, I made a small square jig out of a couple of flat 2 x 4 lego pieces angled together - sometimes I think that modellers use more lego than my kids ever have!! These jigs also ensure both squareness across the station lines and in the vertical plane. Anyway, once the centrelines were brought up, and the ribband notches widened around them, I used a 1/4" x 1/8" lime strip to set the molds square and in alignment. The lego brace allowed for a good fit against the station braces, while the ribband provided stability through the mold. I was very gratified to see the nice, sweet curve that the ribband made once the molds were all in place! The final step here was to cut and install the three ribbands in place. These serve a couple of purposes. There's the obvious one of providing structural stability and strength to the framework, but they also serve as reference points for the rubbing strakes that will be added to the bottom of the boat much later. As part of this process, I made a stem bracket to support the centre ribband at the bow, This is a temporary piece, cut to the height of the stem, but serving only to maintain the lines of the boat's bottom. In the photo below, you can also see the inner stem, which is rough tapered through its length from a roughly trapezoidal shape at the upper end to a triangular one at its base. I made the inner stem from a 1/4" x 1/4" strip of beech. The port and starboard ribbands also had to be trimmed back and faired to the run of the planking, as you'll see in one of the images below. Photos documenting these steps follow. Enjoy! hamilton

Hello again: Following the construction of the strongback it was time to make the molds. There are 5 molds plus the transom. These were made using the same 1/8" x 1/4" lime that was used for the transom bracket and the braces on the station lines. Taking off the measurements from the plans was finicky (especially where there were fractional measures in the /8 range) but not too difficult - keeping a very sharp pencil and using a magnifying lens helped considerably. I did have to make a few of the molds a couple of times as I made some calculation errors the first go around, but in the end, the results were good - symmetrical, solid and accurate to the offsets given on the plans. For each of the molds, I first drew a baseline and centre line on a small piece of 1/4" plywood. I then took the offsets from the drawing to make a basic outline of the mold (to the inside of the planking). I then fixed a 1/4" x 1/8" lime strip along the baseline to act as an anchor piece for the construction of the mold. Two more pieces were cut to act as braces for the verticals to insure that they retained a consistent 12" run from their outside edges. The bracing strip that you see in one of the images below is not fixed, but is used to ensure symmetry in the verticals and (later) to help brace the whole mold while it's being glued up. The verticals and the angled sides of the mold both lie on the control edge, so the side pieces were clamped down in position as a next step, with clamps being added at the base of the verticals for stability and accuracy in setting the horizontal pieces. All these pieces (with the exception of the verticals) were cut overlength and then shaved down on the disc sander - which I am increasingly finding to be one of the most useful and indispensable tools in the shop. The final step in mold construction was to cut three notches in the smaller crosspiece to allow for the ribbands which serve as structural reinforcements later in the process. A crossbar with similar notches was also made for the transom support frame. These also serve the purpose of ensuring the correct alignment of the molds once they are set up on the strongback. Here are some images documenting the process. Enjoy! hamilton

Hello all. The first stage in the construction of the OC Skiff is building a strongback on which the molds will rest. I built this from some 1/4" plywood that our contractors left over from the renovation of our garage, which is where my workshop is located. The strongback's dimensions are 12" x 14', with a number of 9" bracing pieces on the interior for strength. The forward end of the strongback is raked at 83 degrees to (later) support the inner stem. A centre line and station lines were marked on the strongback, including a reference line where the verticals of the transom support frame will go. Several 1/8" lime strips were used as support braces at each of the reference lines to add stability to the molds, once they are attached. The forward end of strongback cap also had to be cut to a 1/4" point at the end to accommodate the sheer planking where it connects to the inner stem. Finally, the transom support frame (raked at 60 degrees) was added. Here are some pictures to document the process...somehow I failed to get an overall shot of the finished strongback.....Enjoy! hamilton

Back in summer 2017 I scored a serious modelling injury - a deep cut in my left index finger that severed the nerves and nicked a tendon. The results were not only the immediate physical damage (despite surgery and physio I still have only very limited use of that finger and it still causes physical discomfort to bend the last knuckle), but also that my focus on modelling drifted in the extreme - a psychological barrier that I have found it much more difficult to overcome than the injury itself! My modelling hasn't stopped entirely, but the model I was working on when the injury happened has languished (I think I've spent maybe half a dozen days on it since the injury), and I have not been able to make much progress on the other project I have on the go - a 1:64 scale Bluenose scratch-built from the MS plans. I hope to finish both of these models one day, but I felt like I needed a smaller project just to get me back into the swing of modelling. I did not want to break open a new kit (I have quite a few on the shelf waiting) so I started looking for a good small project that I could dive into. Then last summer I stumbled across a site that I imagine some of the MSW crew are aware of - Off Centre Harbor out of Brooklin, Maine. OCH came up in a search for small boat kits (full size) and I discovered this great video series that follows the construction of a 14' rowing skiff, designed by Havilah Hawkins. The build was conducted by an OCH instructor and a group of what look like 7-12 year old kids. It was watching the kids build it that I think inspired me to have a go at modelling this and as an entry back into ship modelling. Here is a link to the first video in the series - the full set of videos is available only to OCH members - I joined and discovered quite a few useful and interesting resources, but am otherwise unaffiliated with them. https://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/how-to-build-a-beautiful-skiff-part-1-introduction/ OCH makes the plans for this kit available at a reasonable price (40$) - and the 5 sheets (of varying scales but with all necessary offsets included) are accompanied by a wood list for the full scale boat that also serves as reference for modelling the skiff at scale. The video series shows an adaptation of the skiff for sail, but no plans for this are currently available. So in essence this build serves a couple of purposes - first (hopefully) to bootstrap me back into modelling and second to give a sense of how easy or difficult it might be to build one of these things full size at some point in the future. I'll be building the model at 1:12 (1" = 1') scale and following as much as possible, the process as outlined for the construction of the full sized boat - with some modifications. I'll close out this post with an image (cropped) of the profile and plan views of the skiff. Enjoy! hamilton

Hi Ron Your Oneida log has always been one of my favourites here, so I'm thrilled to see you embarking on Euryalus!! It's already looking great - I'll be following this build with interest! Thanks for sharing hamilton

You've made a great start! Your Syren was really well done and I'm looking forward to seeing how it goes with this one. hamilton

Thanks for the shout-out, Gary - seems a lifetime ago that I worked on America...in reality this was the last model I brought to completion....since then haven't been able to accomplish much in the workshop between demands of work, family and some bug house projects (including constructing what I hope will become my new modelling workshop this summer so I can get back at it!!). In any case, your America looks great! What's next for you? hamilton

I don't know if there are any other ways of saying what everyone is saying about your work, Bitao - simply amazing! A beautiful thing to see the incredible combination of engineering and artistry, and such a broad a deep level of skill. I wish I could be your apprentice!! I would happily move to Beijing to learn from you! hamilton

I was not even aware that there was a schooner configuration of the Emma C Berry - I have this kit too, and will follow along with interest hamilton

You're doing a great job with Syren - mine has been languishing and this is inspiring me to pick it up again! Wonderful work hamilton

Looking great so far! hamilton

I can't show this to my kids because otherwise I might be pressured into making one myself! No time and only half the necessary skill! This looks really cool and someone is going to be super happy! hamilton

Nice work so far - this is one of the many kits I've amassed over the years that I truly hope to get to one day......in the meantime, I'll enjoy following your build hamilton

Thanks so much for making these available! I have the mylar plans, but these digital images will be a nice quick reference! Thanks again! hamilton

Beautiful work all around! hamilton

So it goes....some nice items here at very good prices....

I have this kit under my bench and am looking forward to following your progress on the build - such a beautiful ship - you're off to a great start....also assuming from the previous post that you're back home and all is well! I hope so. Stay safe and bye for now hamilton

Dumb question - does not shipping internationally include Canada? I would be willing to transfer postage costs in addition to the cost of a few of these items if you would be willing to ship north of the border.... hamilton

Just catching up with your build, WG - she's looking really great! Nice going! hamilton

Thanks for the clarification Druxey - these distinctions are good to know! I'm thinking of English vessels of the early 18th century (1719-1745). Thanks again hamilton

This question has probably been posed and answered elsewhere, but after a few searches I came up dry, so I'll ask here - would hatches & gratings have been rounded down to match the camber of the relevant decks? Thanks in advance for any guidance here! hamilton

Great work on the Bellona Harlequin - despite what you've said about "errors" - I think that the overall feel of the model allows these to fade into the background and (as you suggest) define the personality of your build. Glad you stuck with it! Question - is that your deck in the background of the first shot of the finished model? I used to skate when I was younger, but now have trouble doing basic things on my kid's board. Fortunately he hasn't taken to it much yet so I can still appear to be a useful teacher.... hamilton

Great work! She's looking nice hamilton

Great work Harlequin - quick question - how did you get the snaking done without distorting the forestay and preventer stay? I tried snaking on the Blandford but removed it because I couldn't figure out how to add it without it pulling up on the stays and spoiling their run..... hamilton