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About rlb

  • Birthday 05/17/1960

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    Troy, New York

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  1. Steve, The molds will be rtv silicone rubber. I was able to find your build log--a sweet model! I definitely can't manage the centrifugal casting arrangement you showed. I'll see how it goes. If I am not able to cast them well, I'll do the anchors another way. Ron
  2. Druxey, I will make the filling vent/funnel larger, it's good I can recycle the metal! I think I need to get a larger crucible. I am doubting that the spoon/ladle that came with the casting "kit", will hold enough metal. Steve, I have wondered about this. They will be long, narrow pieces to cast. I was puzzling over whether a lower melting point was better or not, as it's not as big a delta from the mold (maybe won't cool down as fast as a higher temp metal?). I have also read that heating the mold before pouring can help, and I will talcum powder the mold also. I don't think centrifugal force is an option, unless there is a safe way to do this by hand. Is a higher melting point alloy better for this type of casting? Ron
  3. Question for those with experience casting: I am going to try casting my anchors for Oneida. It will be the first time I have tried casting. I'm using the Micro-mark 280 metal (280 degree melting point). How should I orient my anchor patterns in the mold? As on the left, or as on the right? Ron
  4. Here are the copies of the anchors. The two round-arm, iron-stock anchors need two patterns--one with the stock, and one with the arms-- I've decided to do the 1500#, 1200#, 800#, and 400# anchors. Here are the patterns glued to some pear stock. Wasting more wood than I would like, but I couldn't really figure out a more efficient way to lay them out without going diagonal. I thought I should keep the grain parallel to the shank, though that does make the arms susceptible to breaking-- The holes have been drilled and I'm filing away at the brass strip of preventer plates-- Varying stages of progress-- Four preventer plates parted off--they look a bit chunky, so more work is needed on them to slim them down a little. And the anchors in various stages of being cut out, sanded and filed-- Ron
  5. That makes it sound easy, but I know there is skill involved! Ron
  6. Michael, Photos can be inaccurate, but that color seems to be developing very well, and I applaud your patience in having to be careful with so many coats! Ron
  7. Romulus, Welcome, and it is interesting that you are a professional ballet dancer, and are interested in this hobby. I have three daughters who studied ballet for many years; one of whom still dances professionally. I don't think any of them would start a ship model! As druxey says, any help you may need is available here, and I hope you will continue after the "shut down" is over. Ron
  8. Thank you, Andreas. I have a few things going at once, having finished the bow work. I'm still sanding the Channel pieces into form, and also cutting out 20 Chainplate Preventer Plates from a strip of brass. I did one, to test, and will now mark and drill the holes for all twenty, and try to do them more or less all at once-- I am also beginning preparations for making the anchors. Oneida was to carry five: 1500lbs, 1300lbs, 1200lbs, 800 lbs, and 400 lbs. I think I will be making 4, though not sure which ones yet. As this was a transitional period for wooden stock vs. iron stock, and angled arm vs. round arm, I am thinking of two of the larger ones as traditional angle arm, wooden stock anchors, and the two small ones as round arm, iron stock. It seems there is some evidence that the smaller anchors were more likely to introduce the iron stocks. I'm going to try and cast them, which is something I have never done before, so we'll see how that goes. Since I'll have the wooden forms for the casting, if the casting doesn't pan out I can paint the forms and use those. Here is a page from Petrejus's book Modelling the Brig of War "Irene" showing both traditional and iron stock anchors, and Charles G. Davis' book The Built-Up Ship Model showing a round arm anchor (though with a wood stock), and my notebook with calculations for the sizes. I used the formula Charles G. Davis gives in his book. I calculated just the shank size, and will Xerox copy the illustrations to multiple sizes so that the shanks match my calculations. That will give me scaled paper patterns to cut out the wood forms with-- I also adjusted Davis' formula to check it against a table of anchor sizes in Lavery's The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War, and got results that corresponded reasonably well to that table, so I am somewhat confident that my anchors will be close to the right size. Ron
  9. Sounds like a good read! Last summer I bought this table (on momentary impulse) at an auction, I liked the look of it, and it was listed as "hatch table". After a little research I learned it's made from a Liberty ship hatch, and these are a "thing". You can find them on ebay for pretty big bucks. The maker signed his name underneath in marker "LEAKOS 1978". Ron
  10. I too, missed your build log until seeing your gallery photos. Superb job, she looks great! Ron
  11. Post #80, Photo 1 (though other photos show it also, this one struck me)-- There is indeed a human being in this cold, sterile place, building this beautiful thing. Ron
  12. Steve, Yes, you won't need the detail from the Chapelle plans for a while. Hopefully by then we'll all be back to normal! My frames are actually Cherry, as are the deck beams and knees. The keel, stem, sternpost, and hull planking are Pear. The decks are Maple, and there is Castello Boxwood here and there. I think your Maple frames will be nice! What other woods did you get? I love that all the Oneida's are different. Ron

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