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About rlb

  • Birthday 05/17/1960

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    Troy, New York

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  1. Well, finally a small update: I have been working on filling in some details on the hull, before finishing the channels and chainplates. Here are some of them. On the right is one of the Main Tack Chesstrees, to the left of that are a couple of the rub rails (not sure of the name), and the rest are rough blanks of the boarding steps. A profile has been scraped along the length, and these are in the process of being filed and shaped around the ends, and the width reduced, and then the hand holds will be filed-- Here is the Chesstree glued in positi
  2. Druxey, The delicate nature of this is revealed to me in the last photo. And if anyone can 'snatch victory' from what we see in the first photo, it is you. Ron
  3. Thanks Maliba, and Joe a while ago. I know I am working very slowly at this point, but I think I will be able to post something in the next few days. Rick, all the frames were far too fat. What you see in the photo is 80 grit first, then I think it was 220, then 600. It took forever. I'm not sure I would bother with the 600 next time around. Ron
  4. Thanks so much Steve and Martin. I have to say I don't think of myself as much of a machinist. It's not my background; I am not knowledgeable. I'm impatient with having to spend time 'making things to make other things'; but at the same time I'm in awe of people like Michael Mott and RJ Soane on this forum for whom the machining and jigs seem to come so naturally, and which they seem to enjoy doing! (And so many others, but those were the first two that came to mind.) But Martin you are right, I often do look at the model and wonder "how did I do that"!? Not in the technical
  5. Finally, an update--and a very small one. I should wait until I have more to add, but I find that just posting something gives me motivation to continue. Here you can see the difference between the filed, and unfiled pins-- After doing them all I blackened them-- As I mentioned in the previous post, even with these narrowed pins (and you should be able to see, they are narrowed near the head, but not all the way down, as they will be cut short), I needed to drill larger holes in the preventer plates. And there I hi
  6. Now that the anchors are behind me, it's time to finish up the channels and chainplates. The channels have been shaped and glued to the hull, reinforced with wire pins-- I have some brass brads, however they are too large to use as is for the bolts that fasten the preventer plates to the hull, so I need to file them down a bit. There are about 60 to do, and I thought about buying some that were the right size, but rather than spend the money and wait, I decided to do them by hand. I need to reduce the diameter of both the shaft and the head. It only take
  7. Moving forward with the anchors: Here I have blackened the straps, and anchor rings-- My plan was to epoxy the blackened straps to the top of the stocks, and once the epoxy set, bend the bands around and epoxy the ends underneath-- Unfortunately, the epoxy wouldn't hold the bands, even though the brass was paper thin, and took hardly any force to bend. They just popped off. I tried CA glue next, but that didn't work either. Plan B was to solder the bands closed, and then slip them onto the stocks. However, the brass was too thi
  8. Thanks for your kind words, Mike! I could have easily used the wooden anchor masters instead of casting one-off metal copies. It was a great learning exercise, though; and I prefer the metal copies. Work continues to finish the anchors. All four of the shipped anchors on Oneida are different sizes. Here the wooden stock of the #1500 anchor is treenailed. The two halves of the stock are temporarily glued together-- Here the treenails have been sanded flush, the halves have been separated with isopropyl alcohol, and the interior gap has been s
  9. Thank you, Smo and Martin. Maybe I should have been more terrified of painting the letters! I like your suggestion of a sliver of wood to fill the gap. Ron
  10. Hello All! It's been a while, about 6 months, since I've done any work on Oneida. I felt I botched some work, and it sapped my motivation completely. It's only in the last few days that I've felt ready to start (yet) again. Back in June, after finishing the eagle carving, I made preparations to paint the ship's name on the transom. I wanted to actually paint the letters, not use a decal, or transfer letters. I knew I was going to have to turn the hull upside down to do this, so I wanted to do it now, before finishing anything else. I experimented printin
  11. I am wondering how to go about cutting down a piece of lumber into usable billets (approx. 2" x 20" x say 1/4"). I hope this diagram makes sense-- My question is--is A or B the preferred method for the "final" cutting, in view of how the grain runs? Does it matter whether the billet will be used for framing, or if it is going to be further cut into planking strips? Ron
  12. You might add Nona to the list. I think it was a pilot cutter, owned and sailed by Hilaire Belloc. Belloc wrote a great little book titled "The Cruise of the 'Nona'", in which he sails along the coast of Southwestern England (if I remember correctly), ruminating about the wonders of sailing, among other things. I've thought of trying to model this, but there is little information I've found. Just this photo (on a card from a friend who introduced me to Belloc) and some minimal description in the book. Ron
  13. Looking good, Matus! I would do both decks the same, that is, if you show caulking on one, show it also on the other. Sweep ports were for oars, which were called sweeps. Ron
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