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About rlb

  • Birthday 05/17/1960

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    Troy, New York

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  1. Looking good, Matus! I would do both decks the same, that is, if you show caulking on one, show it also on the other. Sweep ports were for oars, which were called sweeps. Ron
  2. I'm calling this done. Sometimes you get to a point where you're afraid of going just too far, and messing up what you've done to that point. The beak never really materialized, there's no feather texture on the neck and body, and the wing feathers could be better (well, everything could be better), but I'm happy with this, and I'm going to stop before I slip and make an irretrievable mistake-- Isopropyl alcohol is repeatedly swabbed over and around the eagle to loosen it-- And after a while, the eagle is released-- This after
  3. Thanks Phil! So many things to learn in this hobby. I'm enjoying the carving, though I can't imagine doing a ship with a lot more. It's very slow going at this point. Continuing to work on the overall relief areas-- At this point, I began thinking that the thickness of this piece from the "ground plane" of the flattened area was about right, and I needed to get rid of that "ground" and to reduce the overall height. Rather than shave everything down from the top, I unglued this from the base, and rubbed it on sandpaper until that "ground" was paper thin and tra
  4. Working VERY slowly on the eagle. At this rate it will take me a good week to finish it. As I've worked, I've discovered details I missed at first (one important one being the talon gripping the shield), and I've sanded down the surface of my carving to be able to recapture those details. My model image is very low resolution, and if I look at it too enlarged, the details (like the talon) blur too much to be apparent. I have to look at it small, to see more! The outline is basically there now, and I am working on developing the basic relief areas--
  5. Congrats on the new home, Martin! You're moving to my general area of the country! When do you leave? Ron
  6. Thanks, Martin. I am using a small piece of Castello Boxwood, temporarily glued to a hunk of wood. Here is a photo with some scale context-- The eagle itself will be 13/16ths of an inch across. My birthday was last month, and I treated myself to a very nice set of micro carving tools. It was that or the Byrnes saw, and these won (and they were less expensive). I feel a bit foolish, as they are for folks way beyond my talent level, but the carving is something I want to get better at. Here is my model for the eagle--
  7. Thanks for the tip Dan. I bought some of the JB epoxy and used it. Anchors and chain plate link assemblies blackened-- Yes, I am short one preventer plate. It could be anywhere! I'll have to make a new one. Ron
  8. Now that the anchors have been cast, I still have to figure out how to deal with the iron stock. I'm not going to attempt soldering near the casting, and I would like to be able to use the stock I already made. I thought of hammering the "foot" end narrow enough to pass through the hole in the anchor, and then hammering it flat again, but I have doubts about that working well. I decided to saw the stock in half, with the thought of epoxying it together after blackening (I'm not sure how epoxy would hold up to the blackening process--has anyone tried that?)--
  9. Thank you so much, Dowmer, Steve, Dave, Dan, and Martin for you words of condolence and encouragement. Martin, you are so right. These failures are a big part of model building, and I must remember they will never end! Best of luck on your workshop drawers, you will get it right! Dave and Dan, if I had thought about a heat sink (as I should have), it might have helped, though the tin alloy has a melting point MUCH lower than the silver. A little surprising to me (and maybe a result of your encouragement), I am back at it today. I decided to go
  10. In between gluing the channels to the hull in preparation for test fitting the chain plate assemblies, I worked on the second iron-stock anchor. In the first anchor, I made the right angle bend and spread the end after soldering the stopper flange in place. It was not easy to make the bend and detail the end after it was part of the anchor, so I decided to do it the other way round, and make the bend and flatten the end first, while I had better access-- Then, I can slip the anchor on, and then fashion and solder the flange ring-- Instead
  11. Hi Mark, You always have the most interesting questions! I'm not sure this is any help, again photos from Victory--not your ship--but the first photo shows the access door to the roundhouse as a small vestibule with a door at the deck level. You can just see the ladder steps (look under the hammocks that are in the way), and that horizontal gleam just below eye level inside is the "seat". Here is the interior of the roundhouse (looking from deck level)-- And finally from a little farther back showing the vestibule and door on the left,
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