hamilton

Ok - so the deck framing is now done except for the hanging knees. These will have to be fabricated before the deck assembly is installed, but i won't install them until after that. The current deck frame needs some sanding and I'll put a few coats of wipe-on poly, but you can get an impression of what it will look like. 
 
This work has been a good tutorial for the upper deck framing - though that is a bit more complex with the beam arms and accounting for the deck camber - can anyone tell me whether I need to craft the ledges of the upper deck to include the deck camber - I'm assuming yes, and am planning on fabricating the upper deck ledges out of thicker stock so I can sand it fair with the rise of the deck towards the centre lines.
 
The final photo here shows the pillar dry fit between the forward deck beam and the keelson (taken before I finished the deck framing) - I will need to remake this part as the one I initially made is about 1mm too short.
 
Next steps - the hanging knees, blanks for the pump casings, bitt pins and main mast (for alignment of these vertical elements through the decks), the lower deck waterway and spirketing, plus inboard hull planking between upper and lower decks. I think I can also make the forward hatch on the lower deck without building myself into a corner...after that I'll have to turn to the upper deck framing both as a project in itself and to check vertical alignments.
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling
hamilton
 

Snuck a bit of time to make & install a couple of lodging knees, plus some more ledges. Here are a couple of photos - no further commentary for the moment, as I'm being pulled into a game of Uno with my son.....
hamilton
 

Some progress on the deck framing - I've now finished the carlings and inboard run of ledges between the centre and forward lower deck beams. Still remaining - the lodging knees, ledges between the outboard carlings and lodging knees, and the hanging knees. Before installing the deck framing permanently, I'll also make up some blanks for the chain and hand pump shafts, a stub dowel for the main mast and blanks also for the bitt pins - and I'll need to commence on the upper deck framing, as well - this is to test and ensure good alignment of the verticals through the decks. There's so much to be considered here!! It's a bit mind-bending the first time around as I'm just kind of feeling my way around the process. The practicum is good, but some details (like where the bitt pins are positioned) are not clearly spelled out. So I feel like from this point I'll be fabricating a lot of parts without necessarily installing them. But I think that once I finish the lodging knees and ledges for the lower deck and making templates for the hanging knees, I will permanently install the well, the pillar in the hold and the lower deck framing, then add the hanging knees. 
 
Anyways, enjoy the photos!
hamilton

Just for fun I tried dry fitting the deck framing assembly on the cross-section - I think it looks good - the gap for the pump shafts is still a little narrow for my liking, but we'll cross that bridge when it comes....
hamilton

Well it's been almost a month since the last update - and though I haven't made much progress with construction, I did finally take the dive yesterday (after much humming and hawing and fretting) and started to notch out the carlings to receive the ledges.
 
My main worry here was that without a chisel smaller than 1/8" (the carlings are 3" wide or 1/16" at scale) I would need to try to improvise some kind of cutting implement. Initially, I made a little tool out of some 1/32" x 1/16" brass strip - sharpening the end and fixing it into a wooden handle made from 1/8" x 1/8" beech. This proved ineffective. So I decided simply to use the 1/8" chisel in conjunction with a very sharp #11 x-acto blade. This worked ok, but as explained below I took a short cut with the middle carlings on each side....
 
The first step was to mill some 1/16" x 1/16" boxwood strips for the ledges themselves. I took a long strip, laid it across the carlings installed on my deck framing "jig" and marked out the width on the carlings to locate the notches. For the middle carlings on each side, I filed out a section, even though technically there should have been individual notches on each side - the short cut mentioned above. This saved me quite a bit of time and pains, though obviously it is not correct as per ship building practice.....At least one side of the deck will be planked and the cheat largely masked by other features, so I'm not too concerned.
 
To cut the individualised notches, I laid my 1/8" chisel at a roughly 45 degree angle in the centre of the notch as marked out and roughly 2 scale inches from the outside edge of the carling. I tapped it in lightly - this made a "v" shaped gouge along the grain, which I furthered to the markings using the x-acto. I then used the chisel again to tap gouges for the sides of the notch. Laying the chisel carefully on the top surface of the piece, with one edge along the gouge made to define the end of the notch, I then carefully carved out the notch, cleaning it once again with the x-acto at the end. The work is not perfect, but for a first-timer it is good enough. Now that I have the process down, I was able to complete and install the first flight of carlings and ledges between the centre and aft deck beams and between the chain pump shaft openings and the middle carling.
 
I now need to turn to the lodging knees so I can complete the ledges between the centre and aft deck beams. Before doing that (or in tandem with it) I'll keep working on the carlings and ledges in line with the main hatch (between the middle and forward deck beams)....slow going, but still fun when I can find the time!!!
hamilton
 
 

Ok - so the deck framing is now done except for the hanging knees. These will have to be fabricated before the deck assembly is installed, but i won't install them until after that. The current deck frame needs some sanding and I'll put a few coats of wipe-on poly, but you can get an impression of what it will look like. 
 
This work has been a good tutorial for the upper deck framing - though that is a bit more complex with the beam arms and accounting for the deck camber - can anyone tell me whether I need to craft the ledges of the upper deck to include the deck camber - I'm assuming yes, and am planning on fabricating the upper deck ledges out of thicker stock so I can sand it fair with the rise of the deck towards the centre lines.
 
The final photo here shows the pillar dry fit between the forward deck beam and the keelson (taken before I finished the deck framing) - I will need to remake this part as the one I initially made is about 1mm too short.
 
Next steps - the hanging knees, blanks for the pump casings, bitt pins and main mast (for alignment of these vertical elements through the decks), the lower deck waterway and spirketing, plus inboard hull planking between upper and lower decks. I think I can also make the forward hatch on the lower deck without building myself into a corner...after that I'll have to turn to the upper deck framing both as a project in itself and to check vertical alignments.
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling
hamilton
 

Ok - so the deck framing is now done except for the hanging knees. These will have to be fabricated before the deck assembly is installed, but i won't install them until after that. The current deck frame needs some sanding and I'll put a few coats of wipe-on poly, but you can get an impression of what it will look like. 
 
This work has been a good tutorial for the upper deck framing - though that is a bit more complex with the beam arms and accounting for the deck camber - can anyone tell me whether I need to craft the ledges of the upper deck to include the deck camber - I'm assuming yes, and am planning on fabricating the upper deck ledges out of thicker stock so I can sand it fair with the rise of the deck towards the centre lines.
 
The final photo here shows the pillar dry fit between the forward deck beam and the keelson (taken before I finished the deck framing) - I will need to remake this part as the one I initially made is about 1mm too short.
 
Next steps - the hanging knees, blanks for the pump casings, bitt pins and main mast (for alignment of these vertical elements through the decks), the lower deck waterway and spirketing, plus inboard hull planking between upper and lower decks. I think I can also make the forward hatch on the lower deck without building myself into a corner...after that I'll have to turn to the upper deck framing both as a project in itself and to check vertical alignments.
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling
hamilton
 

Ok - so the deck framing is now done except for the hanging knees. These will have to be fabricated before the deck assembly is installed, but i won't install them until after that. The current deck frame needs some sanding and I'll put a few coats of wipe-on poly, but you can get an impression of what it will look like. 
 
This work has been a good tutorial for the upper deck framing - though that is a bit more complex with the beam arms and accounting for the deck camber - can anyone tell me whether I need to craft the ledges of the upper deck to include the deck camber - I'm assuming yes, and am planning on fabricating the upper deck ledges out of thicker stock so I can sand it fair with the rise of the deck towards the centre lines.
 
The final photo here shows the pillar dry fit between the forward deck beam and the keelson (taken before I finished the deck framing) - I will need to remake this part as the one I initially made is about 1mm too short.
 
Next steps - the hanging knees, blanks for the pump casings, bitt pins and main mast (for alignment of these vertical elements through the decks), the lower deck waterway and spirketing, plus inboard hull planking between upper and lower decks. I think I can also make the forward hatch on the lower deck without building myself into a corner...after that I'll have to turn to the upper deck framing both as a project in itself and to check vertical alignments.
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling
hamilton
 

Ok - so the deck framing is now done except for the hanging knees. These will have to be fabricated before the deck assembly is installed, but i won't install them until after that. The current deck frame needs some sanding and I'll put a few coats of wipe-on poly, but you can get an impression of what it will look like. 
 
This work has been a good tutorial for the upper deck framing - though that is a bit more complex with the beam arms and accounting for the deck camber - can anyone tell me whether I need to craft the ledges of the upper deck to include the deck camber - I'm assuming yes, and am planning on fabricating the upper deck ledges out of thicker stock so I can sand it fair with the rise of the deck towards the centre lines.
 
The final photo here shows the pillar dry fit between the forward deck beam and the keelson (taken before I finished the deck framing) - I will need to remake this part as the one I initially made is about 1mm too short.
 
Next steps - the hanging knees, blanks for the pump casings, bitt pins and main mast (for alignment of these vertical elements through the decks), the lower deck waterway and spirketing, plus inboard hull planking between upper and lower decks. I think I can also make the forward hatch on the lower deck without building myself into a corner...after that I'll have to turn to the upper deck framing both as a project in itself and to check vertical alignments.
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling
hamilton
 

Ok - so the deck framing is now done except for the hanging knees. These will have to be fabricated before the deck assembly is installed, but i won't install them until after that. The current deck frame needs some sanding and I'll put a few coats of wipe-on poly, but you can get an impression of what it will look like. 
 
This work has been a good tutorial for the upper deck framing - though that is a bit more complex with the beam arms and accounting for the deck camber - can anyone tell me whether I need to craft the ledges of the upper deck to include the deck camber - I'm assuming yes, and am planning on fabricating the upper deck ledges out of thicker stock so I can sand it fair with the rise of the deck towards the centre lines.
 
The final photo here shows the pillar dry fit between the forward deck beam and the keelson (taken before I finished the deck framing) - I will need to remake this part as the one I initially made is about 1mm too short.
 
Next steps - the hanging knees, blanks for the pump casings, bitt pins and main mast (for alignment of these vertical elements through the decks), the lower deck waterway and spirketing, plus inboard hull planking between upper and lower decks. I think I can also make the forward hatch on the lower deck without building myself into a corner...after that I'll have to turn to the upper deck framing both as a project in itself and to check vertical alignments.
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling
hamilton
 

Snuck a bit of time to make & install a couple of lodging knees, plus some more ledges. Here are a couple of photos - no further commentary for the moment, as I'm being pulled into a game of Uno with my son.....
hamilton
 

Snuck a bit of time to make & install a couple of lodging knees, plus some more ledges. Here are a couple of photos - no further commentary for the moment, as I'm being pulled into a game of Uno with my son.....
hamilton
 

Snuck a bit of time to make & install a couple of lodging knees, plus some more ledges. Here are a couple of photos - no further commentary for the moment, as I'm being pulled into a game of Uno with my son.....
hamilton
 

Snuck a bit of time to make & install a couple of lodging knees, plus some more ledges. Here are a couple of photos - no further commentary for the moment, as I'm being pulled into a game of Uno with my son.....
hamilton
 

Thanks Dave - I do have the Swan plans from Admiralty models, so will consult those as reference - though a different class of ship I'm assuming that the arrangement for the sheet and jeer bitts would not have differed so significant since the vessel's were of the same rate, I believe....I don't think I would have been able to get so far on this were it not for the practicum (supplemented with the first two volumes of the Fully Framed Model) - there are (as mentioned above) some details that aren't covered there, but the clarity of the explanations of process are extremely helpful to a novice like myself
hamilton

Snuck a bit of time to make & install a couple of lodging knees, plus some more ledges. Here are a couple of photos - no further commentary for the moment, as I'm being pulled into a game of Uno with my son.....
hamilton
 

Snuck a bit of time to make & install a couple of lodging knees, plus some more ledges. Here are a couple of photos - no further commentary for the moment, as I'm being pulled into a game of Uno with my son.....
hamilton
 

Nice work! Really like the blend of woods on deck and superstructures - brings lots of life to the model!
hamilton

Nice work! Really like the blend of woods on deck and superstructures - brings lots of life to the model!
hamilton

Nice work! Really like the blend of woods on deck and superstructures - brings lots of life to the model!
hamilton

Nice work! Really like the blend of woods on deck and superstructures - brings lots of life to the model!
hamilton

Continuing on I taped up the middle so that I could sand and work on the deck without getting the inside fill of dust. Then added the toerails and rub rails. Those are pretty straightforward. Made some measurements along the side down from the deck and used that line for the rub rails.
 

 
Now it was time to start getting some paint her. I had posted about best practices when painting colors right up against other colors regarding taping, not taping. As always every one was very helpful. I ended up deciding to freehand it all. What worked best for me was good light, 2x optivisor and most importantly, hand and arm support. I taped up and old sunglasses box and used that to rest my hands on while doing the critical painting areas. I of course still had to go back and touch up some of the lines but overall I was quite happy with my lines.
 

 
I scratch built a hatch cover and rails from mahogany. These were roughly modeled after some I saw on the web. I didn't spend a lot of time researching scale size. I just did what looked about right from photos. Again this was more about can I make a hatch that looks OK? Vs exact to scale. I even carved a tiny  handle. Yeah, should have glued that handle on wayyyy later than now, but I got a little excited. I was surprised how long it lasted before I snapped it off. I put it aside to reattach later. Oh, it was also the second handle as the first one entered earth's orbit during sanding. I just heard "ting" and the tweezers were empty!!
 

 
Ha! There's that box!

Here you can also see my DIY wetpalate for acrylic paint.
 

 
This is my attempt at painting the fairleads by hand...
This is my first attempt at something like this. (I picked up some printed miniatures to practice my painting skills on)
And now there's a bowsprit, that tiny thing was tough to get marked out but I was happy with the result. 
 

 
At this point I started working on all the little fittings that I was going to need for the rigging. I shaped up the blocks and the white metal parts. I painted the blocks with couple dark washes. Are they too dark? Don't think I see them this dark on other builds. I then wrapped the copper wire and painted it. (Also not sure of period correctness, but they turned out like what I was thinking). The paint did have some adhesion problems during rigging. Any tips for that?
Tried making the cleats and turnbuckles look like brass. I didn't think they would be shiny brass but look older and weathered. In pictures I've seen both. What is more correct? Are boat owners constantly polishing their brass fittings? I'm sure keeping them clean is best for routine maintenance, but how shiny are these parts on any given day?
I also used a method posted here by DeeDee and made mast hoops from dollar bills soaked in CA after blackening with permanent marker. Finished size was 1.5mm tall.
 

 
A giant "Thank You" to all that have posted and liked and to all that are just following along. I hope someone finds this log helpful!
 
Chris
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Hamilton - your cross section is looking great!  I remember having the same feeling about all the three dimensional relationships at this point, especially the pump shafts which slant in two dimensions.  I think the original shipwrights made adjustments as they went to get everything to fit, and probably didn't build the well until after the shafts were in place, which isn't an option at 1/48 scale. I found the practicum did have nearly all the information between the text and diagrams, but purchased the plans from NMM (I'm hoping to build the complete model someday) and used some reference books for some additional information. Please let me know if I can help as you work through things.  Your approach of making a lot of the parts before doing any final installations should work great here.
 
Dave

Some progress on the deck framing - I've now finished the carlings and inboard run of ledges between the centre and forward lower deck beams. Still remaining - the lodging knees, ledges between the outboard carlings and lodging knees, and the hanging knees. Before installing the deck framing permanently, I'll also make up some blanks for the chain and hand pump shafts, a stub dowel for the main mast and blanks also for the bitt pins - and I'll need to commence on the upper deck framing, as well - this is to test and ensure good alignment of the verticals through the decks. There's so much to be considered here!! It's a bit mind-bending the first time around as I'm just kind of feeling my way around the process. The practicum is good, but some details (like where the bitt pins are positioned) are not clearly spelled out. So I feel like from this point I'll be fabricating a lot of parts without necessarily installing them. But I think that once I finish the lodging knees and ledges for the lower deck and making templates for the hanging knees, I will permanently install the well, the pillar in the hold and the lower deck framing, then add the hanging knees. 
 
Anyways, enjoy the photos!
hamilton

Just for fun I tried dry fitting the deck framing assembly on the cross-section - I think it looks good - the gap for the pump shafts is still a little narrow for my liking, but we'll cross that bridge when it comes....
hamilton