hamilton

Finally back to the bench after a couple of weeks! Got to spend a week in Seattle for my son's wedding - that was a really good time. But, unfortunately, I've been asked to come back to work part-time to teach a section of Calc II - a good friend / colleague has taken ill and will not be able to work anymore this semester. I've got the class more or less back in control so now I can do a bit of modeling.
 
I decided to go with 3 planking belts, each comprising of 6 strakes. I divided up bulkheads into thirds and then went to work on the upper belt. I further divided this by two with tick paper and proportional dividers. Finally, I broke these regions into thirds by eye.
 
Today I was able to plank the upper belt completely. Because the basswood strips are fairly flexible, I am doing the work with a bit of tapering together with some edge bending. The 3/16" wide strips taper to just under 1/8" at the bow and widen to their full width midship. I chose plank lengths to be approximately 8" long - each spans the space between 4 bulkheads; so there are 1 or 2 planks per strake. It possible could be argued that 6" planks would have been better now that I think about it! No going back now. There is also a 4 plank shift that corresponds to the bulkhead locations - I'm shifting the butts for each strake one bulkhead (approximately 2") on the model. 
 
Here's a couple of pictures of the first stage of planking:

The striped pattern was unintentional - because the hull is going to be painted and coppered I have not taken the time to randomize the material and its just by chance that I have gotten this pattern. I doubt it will continue like this the rest of the way down the hull!
 
Currently, I find it easier on this type of model to taper / fit strakes from bow to stern with a single strip of wood. The butts are then located and cut before each stake is attached to the model. I do this because (for me) it yields smoother transitions at each butt joint. If the hull was to receive a natural finish and the planks needed to be splied, I modify the method a bit. I get wood wide enough to splie the plank. Several pieces are glued together where the butt joints belong, then the complete stake is laid out respecting the joint locations. Once laid out, the wood is cut / sanded to shape  - again smooth junctions at the butt joints are achieved - and the strake is then placed on the model.

Welcome (or should I say bienvenue!) Nick! I'm jealous of your Indy - such a beautiful kit! 
hamilton

Welcome (or should I say bienvenue!) Nick! I'm jealous of your Indy - such a beautiful kit! 
hamilton

Love the generosity in sharing your process Cisco! The gorgeous results are one thing - how you get there makes it even better!
hamilton

Love the generosity in sharing your process Cisco! The gorgeous results are one thing - how you get there makes it even better!
hamilton

Love the generosity in sharing your process Cisco! The gorgeous results are one thing - how you get there makes it even better!
hamilton

Ok - one last post seriously!! I made the jig referenced above for the deck framing and cut/notched out all the lower deck carlings. It was very tempting to install them on the deck beams, but I know I will have to notch them out for the ledges, so I have to be patient!! 
 
I cut a small piece of 3/4" ply and attached some 3/4" x 1/2" scrap wood strips to the bottom as risers. I then glued a 1/64" strip to the bottom edge as an anchor and marked out the position of the deck beams from the template I made earlier. I then clamped the deck beams to the board and cut each carling to length individually. As I went there were a couple of places where the notches in the deck beams had to be adjusted slightly to seat the carlings squarely. But I think there were only 2 or 3 of the 20 that needed this, which is a decent ratio I'd say. 
 
And now, a hiatus from building to focus on work and vacation...might be a few weeks or so before I have enough free time to really get moving again on Echo, but we'll see.....bye for now
hamilton
 
 

Last pics of the day - the well with hardware attached - I will re-do the inboard port side hinge as it got a little twisted when I was using the awl to (pretty ineffectually) simulate bolt heads by punching out from the back side.....in any case it's a little rough-looking, but I thionk it'll be fine once the twisty hinge gets corrected....
hamilton
 
 

Very much a kind of "in process" update. I've started on the hinges for the well using 1/64" x 1/16" brass rod, rounded at the ends and punched with a sharp awl to simulate (not very effectively) the bolts. I tried drilling through the brass, but this proved to be no easy task - assuming that softening the metal in advance by heating it might make this easier, but.....I used some very thin blackened wire to simulate the hinge pins. The photo below shows the hinges hanging off the wire, which will be trimmed back before installation. The wire is connected with a small drop of CA and I'll use epoxy to fit them onto the shot locker lids.
 
But the main work this morning was notching out the lower deck beams for the carlings. As a first step, I lined up the beams to mark out the centre lines and then marked the position of the notches to ensure that the carlings would run true between the beams - this took a bit of finessing. I adjusted the carlings around the lower mast partners/slots for pump shafts to address the alignment issues noted above - they were moved inboard by 1.5" in each case, narrowing the mast partners slightly but allowing for (I think) better clearance of the pump shafts. There were a couple of notches where I ended up tearing out a little bit of wood outside the area - this only affected one of the beams and only on the starboard side, so I've decided that is the side I will add deck planking to - the tear-outs will be completely hidden and will save remakinf the beam.
 
I was initially a little worried about carving out the notches, but the 1/8" chisel is the perfect size, and I ended up clamping the beams along a strip of 3/64" basswood, which allowed me to cut out the notches at the right depth and gave more control to the work. It was much less tricky (though it was pretty slow going) than I thought it would be - the 3" ledges will be another matter, since I do not have a 1/16" chisel to do the work that the 1/8 chisel did on the carling notches.....At this point, I think my only option is to try using a #11 blade for these much small notches....but we'll cross that bridge when the time comes....
 
I'm thinking that I will make a jig to assemble the deck beams, carlings (carved out for ledges) and lodging knees and then install this as one piece onto the model before fitting the ledges and hanging knees. The jig will consist of a 3/4" piece of MDF as a base a little larger in dimension to the overall deck surface, and with some wood strips added on the bottom to raise it for clamping purposes. I will then fix the deck framing template to the upper surface and fix thin (3/64") basswood strips between the beams to keep them evenly spaced. I'll then clamp the beams to this jig and fit the carlings and lodging knees and glue it all up. Since there is no round up to this deck this should be a workable approach.
 
I'm also a little nervous about the hanging knees - these seem like incredibly finicky parts to make - the joinery along the thick stuff and ceiling planks will be hard to get exact....but again, nothing for it but to give it a try....
 
The coming week is going to be quite a busy one as I have a tonne of work to get through before we head on a brief vacation for my wife's 50th....and it'll be pretty full on when we get back, so I'm not sure how much time I'll have at the bench in the next several weeks - I would like to get the well fully completed and the deck framing jig made, but even that might be a bit too ambitious....we'll see. 
 
Happy modelling and bye for now - enjoy the photos
hamilton

Thanks @JacquesCousteau! I see you're located (at least partially) in Mexico City - I'm heading there next week and wondering if you have any recommendations for things to see/do other than the obvious musts (Teotihuacan, Zocallo, the Anthropology museum, Kahlo/Rivera type things, etc.)....restaurant recommendations are always welcome!!
hamilton

Just as a follow up - I've almost completed the third (and final!!) version of the well, with very limited time at the bench. When I dry fit this version and laid my lower deck template on top of it, there was the same issue with the carlings, but what I really wasn't doing when I "discovered" the alignment issue earlier was considering the angle of the pump shafts. When looking straight down, the problem of clearance around the carlings is severe, but when examined from the approximate angle of the pump shafts it's not quite as bad and if the carlings are shifted inboard by even a small amount (3 scale inches) the alignment seems more or less reasonable. Working through a batch of student essays at the moment and other pressing work demands, but hopefully I'll find some time this weekend to finish this part of the build off and commence on the next (lower deck framing) as most of my family will be away and work will slacken slightly.....bye for now
hamilton

Ok - one last post seriously!! I made the jig referenced above for the deck framing and cut/notched out all the lower deck carlings. It was very tempting to install them on the deck beams, but I know I will have to notch them out for the ledges, so I have to be patient!! 
 
I cut a small piece of 3/4" ply and attached some 3/4" x 1/2" scrap wood strips to the bottom as risers. I then glued a 1/64" strip to the bottom edge as an anchor and marked out the position of the deck beams from the template I made earlier. I then clamped the deck beams to the board and cut each carling to length individually. As I went there were a couple of places where the notches in the deck beams had to be adjusted slightly to seat the carlings squarely. But I think there were only 2 or 3 of the 20 that needed this, which is a decent ratio I'd say. 
 
And now, a hiatus from building to focus on work and vacation...might be a few weeks or so before I have enough free time to really get moving again on Echo, but we'll see.....bye for now
hamilton
 
 

Last pics of the day - the well with hardware attached - I will re-do the inboard port side hinge as it got a little twisted when I was using the awl to (pretty ineffectually) simulate bolt heads by punching out from the back side.....in any case it's a little rough-looking, but I thionk it'll be fine once the twisty hinge gets corrected....
hamilton
 
 

Making the breech ropes.
 
There are many ways to do this.  I have simplified it.  Here is a step by step.   I am using my poly rope so CA glue was used.   
 
Start with a breech rope slightly longer than you will need (.055 tan).  Have four eyebolts with rings at the ready.   Also have whatever line you intend to use for seizing ready.   In my case some Guttermann mara 120 thread that matched my rope color.  Note that I have made a loose granny knot on this.  Or one simple overhand knot but left open and ready to go!!!
 

 
Place one ringbolt on the rope and simply bend it over to form a loop.  Leave the tail a bit longish.  I just squeeze the loose loop as shown below with my fingers.  No helping hands needed.  Then I slip the seizing "open knot" onto the end.   Easy peasy.  Then cinch it tight....
 

 
This is what it looks like.  And yes the seizing needs to be pushed closer to the end of the breech and ringbolt.  No glue as of yet.
 

 
Use a tweezers that you are comfy using for this stuff.   Slide the seizing which is still just a loose overhand knot closer to the end.   It may open a bit.  Thats OK.  Just tighten it again when the seizing is where you want it.  At this stage I place the tiniest bit of CA glue (any glue will work here)  on the knot after tightening it.  Then I use my fingers to brush away any excess so it doesnt make the rope stained or discolored.   Yes you get CA on your fingers.   But the rope stays perfectly clean.   I see folks moaning that CA darkens and stains the rope.  This is nonsense if you wipe most of it away before it dries and you dont use too much to begin with.
 

 
No discoloration....super simple method and no helping hands or wacky jigs yet.
 

 
It may be hard to see in the photo below.   But
I take one loose end of the seizing and pinch it between my fingers and away from the seizing.   I am basically pinching the ringbolt and top of the looped breech line.   See the other loose end hanging off the far side?
 

 
Take that loose end and simply wrap it around the breech two or three times.  I have seen folks wrap like 25 times and make a long seizing.,  This never lays correctly and will look sloppy.  I keep my seizings always very short with at maximum only 3 wraps around.  Then I add a drop of CA to the top of the wrapped seizings.  Just a small drop.   No knotting needed.   I pinch and brush the excess CA away with my fingers to keep it clean without darkening at all.  It will only stain if you douse it with way too much CA.  What  a mess that makes and changes the texture of the rope.  Your fingers get sticky and pull the fibers of the rope etc.  I just dip a toothpick into some CA on a scrap piece of wood and barely touch the seizing.  
 

 
Then using a tiny scissors which I have maybe 5 of.....these are spring loaded micro scissors that are very sharp.   I cut the loose ends of the seizing very close to the breech rope.  You dont want to see any sticking out after cutting.  Sometimes a mall amount of CA on that end and using a tweezers to fold it into the breach rope will solve this issue.   I hate when the cut loose ends stick out.  Cut both loose ends.
 

 
Its nice and neat and no discoloration or staining.  Rope is clean and crisp as it should be.  Note the long "loose" end of the breech rope.
 

 
Time to trim that with a sharp blade.  Trim it close and at an angle.  To keep the end of the cut rope from fraying I sometimes put some CA on the op where I am going to cut it.  Then immediately wipe it away with my fingers again to keep it clean before it dries.   
 

 
The cut end....note the angle of the cut and the clean rope with no fraying or staining.
 

 
Then slide two ringbolts on the breech rope which will be inserted on the gun carriages later.  Take the last one and repeat the process to seize the other end just like we described.
 

 
Only now you should slide the cinched seizing and adjust the length so the overall breech rope is the correct length.   Then just finish it as you did the other side.
 

 
Then I make a simulated fake splice in the center to place on the  cannon or Carronade.  I make sure one of those ring bolts are on each side of the center first.  It is very important.  Then I use my plan for the breech line to find the center.   I use a sharp awl to then pierce the center of the breech rope.   I always use 4 strand breech rope so I can pierce it with two strands on each side.  Then I use some CA to stiffen the splice and keep its shape.   I pinch and brush away the excess before it dries....right away.   It will hold its shape.   No shiny spots or staining or discoloration.
 

 
Finished breech rope.
 

 
 

Update:
 
First curved band on port side planked. In advance I thought it would be something very difficult, but so far it has not been that difficult. Because I had already planked the hull this was easier. Also because it is 2 dimensional compared to the hull where the plank has to bend in 3 dimensions. Perhaps planking a curved deck is a good primer/exercise to then try the hull. The measuring etc. is similar.
 
The caulking is a bit difficult to see because I had very lightly sanded it to try polish away the pencil lines a bit, but that also makes the lines less visible now (and the lines are still there lol). It will come to the fore later when I varnish it. It still needs a good sanding, but I will do that when the deck is finished. By the way, I liked making the hooked scarf planks on both sides.
 
Now first continue with the wide band on starboard side.
 




 
 

You've built a truly gorgeous version of the Bluenose Gregg - love her without the sails so the focus can be on the beauty of the hull lines and the lovely spider's web rig. Hope you've got a nice display area worked out for such a fine rendition.
hamilton

You've built a truly gorgeous version of the Bluenose Gregg - love her without the sails so the focus can be on the beauty of the hull lines and the lovely spider's web rig. Hope you've got a nice display area worked out for such a fine rendition.
hamilton

Funny how you don't see things necessarily with the naked eye, but after you post some zoomed pictures, you're like "How'd I miss that?!?"  🤷‍♂️  Did find that I missed placing a few rope hanks on belay pins on the foremast pin saddle and on the main mast fife rail, so added those.  I am sure there are more misses, but I'm going to call this Bluenose finished.  Started this Bluenose in November 2022 (well, technically, it began some 18 years ago, but that's a story I told in one of my first posts...), so it's been almost two years of solid shipmodeling.  This is now my 4th completed model and no question it has been my most challenging and most enjoyable.  Isn't that the way it's supposed to be?
 
A million thanks to those who have followed along with me, to those that I have admired in their own build logs and have learned from during that time, those who continue to inspire me to do better.  I have tried to do much less "settling for ok" with this Bluenose than in the prior three builds, but still have done some things that I have been disappointed in my results.  But... I am learning and enjoying this retirement hobby too much to walk away.  I am just committed to doing better with each new build.  So... on to the next one!
 
Again, thanks to all for your follows, likes, comments and criticisms.  You are ALL appreciated.  Here are a few final pictures.
 
     
 
     
 
      
 
      
 

Love to see the proud Nova Scotia flag flying high on the foremast - great work Gregg!
hamilton

Well, let's see if we can complete this Bluenose!  What's left?  Flags and rope hanks on the belay pins.
 
FLAGS
 
As almost everyone else who has built this Model Shipways' version of the Bluenose, they included the wrong Canadian flag in the kit.  So, I found a good copy of the Canadian Red Ensign on the internet and worked on getting some good prints (both regular and inverted or mirrored) simply using the Paint program on my laptop.  Still not sure if it is "historically accurate", but I wanted to have a 2nd flag on the foremast, along with the Canadian Red Ensign on the higher main mast.  So, I chose the Nova Scotia Provincial flag for the foremast.
 
I should also note that the Canadian Maple Leaf flag that was included in the kit measured approx. 82mm x 41mm.  This size seemed a little too large as I held it up at the main mast.  So, when designing the size for the Canadian Red Ensign, I decreased it a bit and printed it at 70mm x 35mm.  I then made the Nova Scotia Provincial flag at a slightly smaller dimension of 62mm x 31mm.
 

 
In reading on other MSW build logs about how others printed their flags on heat transfer paper, I recall that many of them were printed on inkjet printers.  Although I have an inkjet printer, I also have a laser printer that has better quality print, so when I was preparing to do these flags a few months ago, I opted to purchase the laser printer heat transfer paper.  
 

 
Well, in my pure stupidity and loss of thought, when it came time to print these flags this week, I still thought I needed to print them on my inkjet printer.  To make things even worse, I thought I would try printing these flags using the silkspan, as I thought they might hang better than using regular sail-type fabric.  Well...
 

 
...it didn't turn out so well!  Ha!  The print wasn't adhering to the paper well and it got way too hot under the iron.  Oops.  Long story short (too late for that), I eventually realized that a) I needed to print to the laser transfer paper on a laser printer, and b) regular sail cloth was working much better than either of the silkspan thicknesses that I had.  Once I successfully printed both flags on both sides of the cloth fabric, it was time to shape the flags.  Since my Bluenose was completed without sails, I wanted the flags to appear as much "at rest" as I could get them.  Using a series of dowels and clamps, I worked on shaping them, keeping them in these contraptions for days at a time.
 
       
 
I would also spend a lot of time rolling them between my fingers to try and "soften up" the fibers in the fabric.  (One note there - wear nitrile gloves to prevent any possible fingerprint smudges on your flags!)  I also clipped some weight to the bottom fly end of the flags to help shape the flags.  I should note also that, in one of my attempts to shape the Nova Scotia Provincial flag, I tried some spray starch on the flag which caused the colors to run, so I scratched that and didn't use starch anymore.
 

 
This is how much I was able to curl/shape the flags.
 

 
Using a 5/64" drill bit as a size guide, I wrapped 0.51mm wire around the sleeve grommets for the rope to pass through.
 

 
After tying each flag to the mast tops, I was pretty pleased with how they looked.  Whether it is accurate or not, I tied the Canadian Red Ensign flag halliard to the main mast's starboard sheer pole and the Nova Scotia Provincial flag halliard to the foremast's port sheer pole.
 

 
ROPE HANKS
 
There are many tutorials available (whether on individual build logs, separate topic discussions, or YouTube videos) on how folks have made their rope hanks to hang on belay pins.  I made a little jig to create the ones I would hang on the Bluenose.  If I were to do it over again, and I will do it on the "next ship", I would hang the loop over the edge like some others have shown.  After saturating the rope loops with glue and drying, some of my loops also got a bit stiff and didn't bend and hang as perfectly as I wanted.  But they look good to the casual observer, so I am moving on.
 

 
        
 
I will do one more final walk-through on my Bluenose, but I think we are pretty close to finished.  
 
As always, appreciate the reads, likes, comments and criticisms.  Thanks...
 

Bow/Head Main Rail:
Finished up the head railing with the large main rail patterns.  These are 3 pieces glued together, then painted blue infill and WOP as a finish. 


 
Next I added all the eyelets and deck cleats to the Quarter deck and forecastle.  I have also started on the Quarterdeck rail by gluing the bottom piece in place.

 
 

Ok - one last post seriously!! I made the jig referenced above for the deck framing and cut/notched out all the lower deck carlings. It was very tempting to install them on the deck beams, but I know I will have to notch them out for the ledges, so I have to be patient!! 
 
I cut a small piece of 3/4" ply and attached some 3/4" x 1/2" scrap wood strips to the bottom as risers. I then glued a 1/64" strip to the bottom edge as an anchor and marked out the position of the deck beams from the template I made earlier. I then clamped the deck beams to the board and cut each carling to length individually. As I went there were a couple of places where the notches in the deck beams had to be adjusted slightly to seat the carlings squarely. But I think there were only 2 or 3 of the 20 that needed this, which is a decent ratio I'd say. 
 
And now, a hiatus from building to focus on work and vacation...might be a few weeks or so before I have enough free time to really get moving again on Echo, but we'll see.....bye for now
hamilton
 
 

Last pics of the day - the well with hardware attached - I will re-do the inboard port side hinge as it got a little twisted when I was using the awl to (pretty ineffectually) simulate bolt heads by punching out from the back side.....in any case it's a little rough-looking, but I thionk it'll be fine once the twisty hinge gets corrected....
hamilton
 
 

Ok - one last post seriously!! I made the jig referenced above for the deck framing and cut/notched out all the lower deck carlings. It was very tempting to install them on the deck beams, but I know I will have to notch them out for the ledges, so I have to be patient!! 
 
I cut a small piece of 3/4" ply and attached some 3/4" x 1/2" scrap wood strips to the bottom as risers. I then glued a 1/64" strip to the bottom edge as an anchor and marked out the position of the deck beams from the template I made earlier. I then clamped the deck beams to the board and cut each carling to length individually. As I went there were a couple of places where the notches in the deck beams had to be adjusted slightly to seat the carlings squarely. But I think there were only 2 or 3 of the 20 that needed this, which is a decent ratio I'd say. 
 
And now, a hiatus from building to focus on work and vacation...might be a few weeks or so before I have enough free time to really get moving again on Echo, but we'll see.....bye for now
hamilton
 
 

Last pics of the day - the well with hardware attached - I will re-do the inboard port side hinge as it got a little twisted when I was using the awl to (pretty ineffectually) simulate bolt heads by punching out from the back side.....in any case it's a little rough-looking, but I thionk it'll be fine once the twisty hinge gets corrected....
hamilton