hamilton

Thanks BE:
 
I will most likely try to doctor these lanterns - ordering is not really in the realm of possibility. I checked out your work on the Pegasus lanterns, and of course - they look amazing! 
 
I have a "yellow ochre" paint that does not really look like the ochre I see used on model ship's - it's an artist acrylic from Golden that has a little too much green in it to be useful....not sure how I'll address this issue yet, but since there's no pressure to complete the lanterns before moving on with the masting and rigging, I'll just mull it over for now....
 
Thanks again BE - you're always a wealth of great ideas and useful resources!
hamilton

Corel supplies laser cut walnut caps for the main and fore lower masts. These are each provided in 3 1.5mm thick parts that are glued together to form the final cap. I will likely use these when the time comes.
 
The bowsprit cap, as well as the mizzen mast cap and the fore and main topmast caps are cast metal and are useless - first because they make it impossible to add rigging features and second because the holes in them are not fully bored, and with only handtools to work with I could never get them into shape.
 
So, I'm faced with scratch building 4 mast caps - the bowsprit and mizzen caps are larger (about 2mm x 5mm) while the topmast caps are quite small (and may prove very difficult to craft...). Anyway, here is the only shot I have of the rough mast cap that I made. I gradually drilled holes at the appropriate locations and at an appropriate angle to account for the rake of the bowsprit. I then used round and square needle files to get the finished shape. After I took this shot, I sanded the sides down a bit more to match the size of Corel's part - something they seemed to get right.
 

 
The bobstays are a bit of an ambiguity. Goodwin (and Corel) shows only one, but Lees mentions that the 1719 Establishment allowed for 2 - he does not mention as he does elsewhere if this was only a practice on larger ships. I've taken the liberty of adding a second bobstay, less for historical reasons, then because I think it will look good.
 
However, Corel suggests using 5mm deadeyes for the bobstays and bowsprit shrouds but provides 4mm cast metal hearts for the fore stay, for preventer stay and main stay. Take a look.
 

 
I initially thought of ditching the metal hearts and making my own of a comparable size to the deadeyes, but again to my eye the deadeyes seemed too big and clunky for the model. So I decided to replace them with 3mm deadeyes, and to stick with the metal hearts.....sorry!!
 
Anyway, after agonising over how to make a single collar for all the deadeyes and the heart for the fore stay, I looked again at Lees only to discover that each of these rigging elements was put on with its own collar....! Filled with relief I went ahead and attached the remainder of the rigging elements, including
 
-- 3mm deadeyes for the bowsprit shrouds
-- 3mm deadeyes for the inner and outer bobstays
-- 4mm hearts for the forestay and fore preventer stay
-- ringbolts p/s on the upper sides of the cap for the bowsprit horses
-- two 3mm single blocks p/s on the lower sides of the cap for the spritsail lifts
-- two ringlbolts on the lower forward face of the cap for the jibboom footropes
-- a 4mm double block on the bottom of the cap for the spritsail jeers
-- a 4mm single block married to a 3mm single block for the fore topmast stay and the jib sail staysail downhaul.
-- a blackened brass ring service as a traveller
 
I also added the jibboom (3mm dowel cut to 72mm and tapered appropriately), the jibboom gammoning, the main stay heart and the bowsprit gammoning....here is the finished product....
 

 

 

 

 
All in all an eventful few days. On and on it goes....
hamilton

Watching your work has been a pleasure.  There is no question in my mind that you have great talent and desire, much of which has yet to show itself.  Your interplay with BE reveals that.
 
Work at the pace that fits into your life.  We'll all still be here waiting to admire.

Well there has been some progress on the Blandford, but I have no photos to show for it yet, unfortunately. I've not been documenting the last stages of the build as closely as I have in the past, mostly since I have much less time for modelling with the start of another academic year. So while I'm at the bench, I prefer to work rather than take photos. There will be some in the near future, I promise....
 
I've spent the last 3 days puzzling through the fore mast. Lots of trial and error following all the questions about calculations of length. The final lengths of the lower masts I posted above. I cut the dowels to length (actually about 10mm longer in each case) and dry fit them on deck, checking the look and trimming until i got something that looked right.
 
The fore mast has been a kind of experiment. Shaping it and squaring the head was not a problem, but what to do with the head was another matter. I added some 1/16 pinstripe tape as iron bands, which I thought added a nice subtle detail. I then thought to add the vertical battens, which I made out of 1/32 x 1/32 lime. I installed these (2 on each side as illustrated in Goodwin), and then sanded them down even thinner to try and approximate the very small scale. I thought they looked pretty good, but once they were done it was clear that they threw off the dimensions of the other elements (specifically the top and the topmast/cap) so I did away with them and had to strip the head and re-do it. 
 
I did add rope woldings (5) and scratch built the bibs and cheeks since the laser cut ones provided were nowhere near the mark. Making the top was really a lot of fun, and I think it'll look great once it's finally installed and adorned with railing and topmast shroud deadeyes....
 
Anyway, as I say, there isn't a huge amount of time for modelling in my world, as there is during the summer, so I won't be posting here quite as frequently as before. I'll try to keep my updates with photos, since all this reading is dull work if there are no photos to draw the eye....
 
Hope you're all enjoying yourselves....
hamilton

Finally here's a shot of an upcoming challenge....
 

 
Any advice on what to do with these would be greatly appreciated!! I don't think I can make these tiny lanterns from scratch, but I can't leave them raw...the figurehead poses a similar issue.....though it might be easier to find an alternative for that....
hamilton

Well there has been some progress on the Blandford, but I have no photos to show for it yet, unfortunately. I've not been documenting the last stages of the build as closely as I have in the past, mostly since I have much less time for modelling with the start of another academic year. So while I'm at the bench, I prefer to work rather than take photos. There will be some in the near future, I promise....
 
I've spent the last 3 days puzzling through the fore mast. Lots of trial and error following all the questions about calculations of length. The final lengths of the lower masts I posted above. I cut the dowels to length (actually about 10mm longer in each case) and dry fit them on deck, checking the look and trimming until i got something that looked right.
 
The fore mast has been a kind of experiment. Shaping it and squaring the head was not a problem, but what to do with the head was another matter. I added some 1/16 pinstripe tape as iron bands, which I thought added a nice subtle detail. I then thought to add the vertical battens, which I made out of 1/32 x 1/32 lime. I installed these (2 on each side as illustrated in Goodwin), and then sanded them down even thinner to try and approximate the very small scale. I thought they looked pretty good, but once they were done it was clear that they threw off the dimensions of the other elements (specifically the top and the topmast/cap) so I did away with them and had to strip the head and re-do it. 
 
I did add rope woldings (5) and scratch built the bibs and cheeks since the laser cut ones provided were nowhere near the mark. Making the top was really a lot of fun, and I think it'll look great once it's finally installed and adorned with railing and topmast shroud deadeyes....
 
Anyway, as I say, there isn't a huge amount of time for modelling in my world, as there is during the summer, so I won't be posting here quite as frequently as before. I'll try to keep my updates with photos, since all this reading is dull work if there are no photos to draw the eye....
 
Hope you're all enjoying yourselves....
hamilton

The remaining two lower deck platforms have been installed and finished.  Here's the largest:
 

 
As per Chuck's suggestion, I've also painted the areas on the bulkheads immediately surrounding the platforms black.
I have also installed the safety timbers across the bulkhead uprights (whoops.....almost said 'horns).  These supports are 1/4" birch, which I have a ton of for aircraft use.  It's a snug fit and, hopefully, will support these fragile pieces until I get the hull faired:
 

 
With those supports she almost looks like a candidate for an additional deck.  I could make her a 54!!!!!!!  
 
No, 36 is more than enough.  Next step is fairing the hull so Colorado is now on 'Sawdust Alert'.
 

Hi Guys,
 
Thank you one and all for the very kind words and encouragement, when you try something new it's great to have so many friends offering help and advice so thank you again.
 
I have made a little progress on the Aggy, not a lot though, I've been scalded by " he who shall remain nameless " for not posting sooner so here goes.
 
I have made a start on the gun port lids as you will see.
 
Hull steps and fenders are on and painted, nothing to get excited about there, but I did pick up an idea, the manual states to drill 1.5 and 1.0mm holes for the Main Brace, Mainsail Sheet, Foresail Sheet, Spritsail Yard Sheet and Mainsail Tack, just a hole didn't seem right so I innovated by using 4mm deadeyes to make sheaves, I sanded down the oval sides to flat and bob's your uncle - done. I do have some picks of those.
 
Also I made a rope server using styrene sheet, dowel, a servo which was altered, some gears, brass tube and some washers and a battery box for 4 x 1.5 volt batteries. It does take some getting used to because of the motor, although not fast it's fast enough if you cock up, first time I used it to practice I made a right mess but it does work, some pics to follow.
 
Secondly, I made a block tumbler, I used the Admirals garden string tin, some sand paper ( don't know the grit ), dowel and some drawing pins. It's going to fall apart on me but it has done the job for two ship's so plenty of time to make a proper one, and yes I did say two ships. I also done the second Aggy for you know who, again some pics to follow.
 
Enough words, now Sjors favourite, Pics   
 
The first of what seems many gun port lids

 
Steps and fenders on the Starboard side

 
The first of the sheaves, this is for the Main Brace

 
This one is for the Mainsail Sheet

 
On the left is the Foresail Sheet, right, Spritsail Yard Sheet with the Mainsail Tack ahead of that.

 
One botched serving machine

 
Battery box and servo

 
Some very simple gears, if I'm doing it they need to be simple

 
One string tin, ( with permission I might add)

 
Lids off now

 
Simple shaft

 
Results on some of the blocks treated

 
It's a very simple structure and took me about 45 mins to construct but it has reasonable results.

 
So there we are, I do have some guys to thank for the ideas, Andy and Augie, thank you gentlemen.
 
Sjors I do hope these meet your very exacting standards my friend.
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Guys,
 
I would like to thank everybody for your very kind birthday wishes, I had a lovely day with a bit of modelling, a lot of family and a whole lot of cake, unfortunately no booz due to medications.
 
Anja, thanks for the song, it was so funny to watch my 2yr old grandson doing the dog dance.
 
Kevin, I wish you the best of luck in getting some Tulle, I found some on the internet but unfortunately it was not the pattern I needed ( diamond ), I also searched all the habidashery shops in Harwich and Colchester, nothing, so good luck mate. If you do find some perhaps you could let me know.
 
Andy, he's pretty "armless" at the moment, the spear is made of a very soft alloy and sure as eggs is eggs it's gonna get bent up, so for now it stays off.
 
Hamilton, were both on the same day mate, 21st.
 
Geoff, I know that Caldercraft do do an awfull lot of research on the colour schemes of their kits and they have produced their range of paints based on samples taken from Victory, for the Aggy they do say that the colours are right for that period, to me they are boring and so you see the result.
 
Thank you all for the positive comments on the stern colour scheme, it's not accurate but I like it.
 
The stern is now completed, rudder chains, gun port lids and lanterns are fitted, now to start on the front end. No pics just yet but soon.
 
One question perhaps you could help me with, I would like to put some sheaves in the catheads but am having a bit of agro cutting the slots to take them.
My question is, How do I cut the slots in the Catheads which measure 5mm x 5mm.? All I have apart from hand tools and no chisels is a Rotocraft multi purpose.
 
Thank you all once again.
 
mobbsie

Hi Guys,
 
Thank you all so very much for looking in and your kind comments and remarks.  
 
Aldo, I'll do my best mate, I will send you a PM.
 
Sherry / Mark - I don't plan on making any hammocks at the moment, I have no idea as to size although the shape wouldn't be a problem.
 
John, Dan, Augie, Sjors, Andy thanks guys for your good words.
 
Pierre, Jim, Patrick, Anja, thank you very much guys
 
I have to give a big thank you to Grant for sending me the material so that I could make the nettings, I can get something like it but it's the wrong pattern. Be seeing you very soon mate.
 
Patrick - I have Sjors next build at home so the Meercats will be spiking his guns, cant have a wayward sailer on the ocean.
 
OK, The Transom, all that is left to do is the lanterns and two gun port lids, I will post a few pics as she stands now but please be aware that it is still work in progress. The quarter galleries are also finished apart from a paint touch-up.
 
The figure head is dry fitted and I quite like him so wont be changing anything there apart from fitting his spear a little later, it's a very soft metal.
 
I didn't want the stern to look bland or blousy so I would appreciate any and all comments whether they be good or bad.
 
OK, some pictures, some have been taken outside just to try it, ( scary taking the ship down the stairs ).
 
Original Colour scheme                                                 

 
My colour scheme. It does look twisted but that's only my photography

 
Stern and starboard quarter gallery

 
Natural Light

 
Figure Head

 

 

 
Port quarter view

 
So there we have the latest batch guys, I hope you like them but shoot from the hip, I can take it.
 
mobbsie

OK on cut, sand, trial , pencil.  But then I glue them on and sand lightly again.  I'm using PVA here so I'm not worried about CA getting all over. Then I pre-stain...........this is basswood and it minimizes blotches.  Finally WOP.
 
I use the same sequence on deck.
 
Hull planking is different.  There I use a thick CA which does not make a mess or penetrate the wood and then go right into sanding and finishing.

And now back to our regular programming 
 
She has 3 platforms to construct which represent the lower (sub-gun deck) deck.  They will be barely visible through some hatch openings.
 
Here is the completed first platform.  It is made of 23 planks of basswood, stained with a natural finish and given a coat of WOP.  The edges of the planks have simulated caulking using a #2 pencil on one edge only (I don't like the caulking too heavy).  I chose not to simulate the treenails on these lower decks.
 

 
Chuck states in the practicum that the lower decks were generally lighter in color then the main deck.  I intend to maintain that concept but we'll need to wait a while to see that effect (like about a year). 
 
The planks for the remaining 2 platforms have been cut and will go in very shortly.

Keith-  I've always been afraid someone would ask that question     .  The old log was about 50 pages when it went down --- but in those days there were only 10 posts/page.
 
I don't really care about the # of pages although I know it annoys some people.  I post as many photos as I can without being silly.  With Syren it was about 135 photos.  Confed will be more as I've learned what folks might like to see. 
 
My logs are open to everyone and I welcome active participation.  Those who don't care for our 'family' environment can choose not to follow.  As Andy said earlier, all chances of this being a 'highbrow' log went out the window with the appearance of the first moose.  Of course I'm part of the problem as I tend to care as much about the folks on here as I do about reporting that I glued stick 'A' into slot 'B'.
 
More pics in a day or so.

Hi Hamilton
You really have headed into the depths of scratch model making with all of the research and testing of ideas. And it all looks very good indeed! I can't imagine an out of the box kit ever satisfying you again. A great progression - one day I may catch up with you.
 
Cheers
Alistair

Nicely done on the Bowsprit rigging hamilton
 
Re the lanterns: for kit provided stuff they don't look bad for style and six sided is good for the period, presumably they are solid metal?
 
The real thing would probably have been made of metal but painted to represent wood, so you could paint it a sort of yellow ochrery colour to tone in with the  model. The glazed areas could be painted appropriately and perhaps finished in a high gloss to reflect light.
 
I am currently  trying trying to make something of the Pegasus lantern and I am using the Caldercraft 1:72 Victory stern lanterns.They come in three sizes and if you wanted to go for etch rather than solid the smaller ones may fit the bill.
 
The main central lantern is 23mm h x12mm  dia. the two side lanterns are 21mm h x11mm d. and theTop lantern is 16mm h x 8.5mm d.
 
The down side is they are somewhat out of period being Octagonal in shape.
 
Just a thought .
 
B.E.

My two cents: I’m not familiar with what ship your working on but I can point out the nature of a downhaul on a staysail, a line running from the head of the staysail down along the stay back to the bowsprit or jiboom, used to pull the sail down to the spar in order to strike it. The canvas of the sail itself necessitates the block in question to be on one side or the other of the centerline of the spar, since the line would have to run down one side or the other of the sail, along the luff. So your downhaul block should be near to but not directly aft of wherever the stay terminates on the spar. If the downhaul block was on the centerline of the spar and/or immediately aft of the block for the stay, the canvas of the sail, as it was being struck, would quickly smother the block. folds of canvas would get in the way while the downhaul was being used, and the downhaul  would chafe away at the sail. I would recommend locating your downhaul block at about a 3:30 or 7:45 position in relation to wherever your stay leads to in the headrig, or at any rate whichever point is under the tack of the sail as it is struck.

Corel supplies laser cut walnut caps for the main and fore lower masts. These are each provided in 3 1.5mm thick parts that are glued together to form the final cap. I will likely use these when the time comes.
 
The bowsprit cap, as well as the mizzen mast cap and the fore and main topmast caps are cast metal and are useless - first because they make it impossible to add rigging features and second because the holes in them are not fully bored, and with only handtools to work with I could never get them into shape.
 
So, I'm faced with scratch building 4 mast caps - the bowsprit and mizzen caps are larger (about 2mm x 5mm) while the topmast caps are quite small (and may prove very difficult to craft...). Anyway, here is the only shot I have of the rough mast cap that I made. I gradually drilled holes at the appropriate locations and at an appropriate angle to account for the rake of the bowsprit. I then used round and square needle files to get the finished shape. After I took this shot, I sanded the sides down a bit more to match the size of Corel's part - something they seemed to get right.
 

 
The bobstays are a bit of an ambiguity. Goodwin (and Corel) shows only one, but Lees mentions that the 1719 Establishment allowed for 2 - he does not mention as he does elsewhere if this was only a practice on larger ships. I've taken the liberty of adding a second bobstay, less for historical reasons, then because I think it will look good.
 
However, Corel suggests using 5mm deadeyes for the bobstays and bowsprit shrouds but provides 4mm cast metal hearts for the fore stay, for preventer stay and main stay. Take a look.
 

 
I initially thought of ditching the metal hearts and making my own of a comparable size to the deadeyes, but again to my eye the deadeyes seemed too big and clunky for the model. So I decided to replace them with 3mm deadeyes, and to stick with the metal hearts.....sorry!!
 
Anyway, after agonising over how to make a single collar for all the deadeyes and the heart for the fore stay, I looked again at Lees only to discover that each of these rigging elements was put on with its own collar....! Filled with relief I went ahead and attached the remainder of the rigging elements, including
 
-- 3mm deadeyes for the bowsprit shrouds
-- 3mm deadeyes for the inner and outer bobstays
-- 4mm hearts for the forestay and fore preventer stay
-- ringbolts p/s on the upper sides of the cap for the bowsprit horses
-- two 3mm single blocks p/s on the lower sides of the cap for the spritsail lifts
-- two ringlbolts on the lower forward face of the cap for the jibboom footropes
-- a 4mm double block on the bottom of the cap for the spritsail jeers
-- a 4mm single block married to a 3mm single block for the fore topmast stay and the jib sail staysail downhaul.
-- a blackened brass ring service as a traveller
 
I also added the jibboom (3mm dowel cut to 72mm and tapered appropriately), the jibboom gammoning, the main stay heart and the bowsprit gammoning....here is the finished product....
 

 

 

 

 
All in all an eventful few days. On and on it goes....
hamilton

Finally here's a shot of an upcoming challenge....
 

 
Any advice on what to do with these would be greatly appreciated!! I don't think I can make these tiny lanterns from scratch, but I can't leave them raw...the figurehead poses a similar issue.....though it might be easier to find an alternative for that....
hamilton

Corel supplies laser cut walnut caps for the main and fore lower masts. These are each provided in 3 1.5mm thick parts that are glued together to form the final cap. I will likely use these when the time comes.
 
The bowsprit cap, as well as the mizzen mast cap and the fore and main topmast caps are cast metal and are useless - first because they make it impossible to add rigging features and second because the holes in them are not fully bored, and with only handtools to work with I could never get them into shape.
 
So, I'm faced with scratch building 4 mast caps - the bowsprit and mizzen caps are larger (about 2mm x 5mm) while the topmast caps are quite small (and may prove very difficult to craft...). Anyway, here is the only shot I have of the rough mast cap that I made. I gradually drilled holes at the appropriate locations and at an appropriate angle to account for the rake of the bowsprit. I then used round and square needle files to get the finished shape. After I took this shot, I sanded the sides down a bit more to match the size of Corel's part - something they seemed to get right.
 

 
The bobstays are a bit of an ambiguity. Goodwin (and Corel) shows only one, but Lees mentions that the 1719 Establishment allowed for 2 - he does not mention as he does elsewhere if this was only a practice on larger ships. I've taken the liberty of adding a second bobstay, less for historical reasons, then because I think it will look good.
 
However, Corel suggests using 5mm deadeyes for the bobstays and bowsprit shrouds but provides 4mm cast metal hearts for the fore stay, for preventer stay and main stay. Take a look.
 

 
I initially thought of ditching the metal hearts and making my own of a comparable size to the deadeyes, but again to my eye the deadeyes seemed too big and clunky for the model. So I decided to replace them with 3mm deadeyes, and to stick with the metal hearts.....sorry!!
 
Anyway, after agonising over how to make a single collar for all the deadeyes and the heart for the fore stay, I looked again at Lees only to discover that each of these rigging elements was put on with its own collar....! Filled with relief I went ahead and attached the remainder of the rigging elements, including
 
-- 3mm deadeyes for the bowsprit shrouds
-- 3mm deadeyes for the inner and outer bobstays
-- 4mm hearts for the forestay and fore preventer stay
-- ringbolts p/s on the upper sides of the cap for the bowsprit horses
-- two 3mm single blocks p/s on the lower sides of the cap for the spritsail lifts
-- two ringlbolts on the lower forward face of the cap for the jibboom footropes
-- a 4mm double block on the bottom of the cap for the spritsail jeers
-- a 4mm single block married to a 3mm single block for the fore topmast stay and the jib sail staysail downhaul.
-- a blackened brass ring service as a traveller
 
I also added the jibboom (3mm dowel cut to 72mm and tapered appropriately), the jibboom gammoning, the main stay heart and the bowsprit gammoning....here is the finished product....
 

 

 

 

 
All in all an eventful few days. On and on it goes....
hamilton

OK time for another update.
 
I've begun the masting with the bowsprit, which is now outfitted with most of the necessary rigging elements and installed on the model. I think I have more or less worked through the confusion over mast & spar lengths - thanks to the help of BE - and have come up with what I think is a good compromise between information provided in Lees and Goodwin and what looks pleasing to my eye. The lengths of the bowsprit and lower masts will be a bit longer than the scale calculations taken from Goodwin - like BE the scale lengths that I arrived at from Goodwin seemed a little short to my eye....all other mast and spar measurements will be derived from the scale measurement of the main mast as given by Goodwin, using Lees as the guide to calculation.
 
The bowsprit was cut and shaped from a 6mm dowel to a length of 111mm. This is longer than Goodwin's measurement by about 10mm, but I think it will look better on the model. 
 

 

 
Goodwin shows the bowsprit outfitted with bee blocks and though at 1:100 these are very small, I decided to give it a try. I shaped the bees from a 1/32 x 3/16" strip of lime. I filed a section of the top of the bowsprit to accept the bees and then installed the bee blocks underneath - these were 1mm x 1mm strips of light walnut. Turned out ok.
 

 

 
I used the same 1mm x 1mm strip to make the gammoning cleats and the stop chocks for the collars.
 

 
I couldn't get a good photo of it, but I also installed a sling cleat for the spritsail yard, including a 1/16" bit of pinstripe tape as an iron buffering bar on which the sling will lie.
 
I'll continue this in another post since for some reason I'm not allowed to upload many photos in a single post...
hamilton

Finally here's a shot of an upcoming challenge....
 

 
Any advice on what to do with these would be greatly appreciated!! I don't think I can make these tiny lanterns from scratch, but I can't leave them raw...the figurehead poses a similar issue.....though it might be easier to find an alternative for that....
hamilton

Corel supplies laser cut walnut caps for the main and fore lower masts. These are each provided in 3 1.5mm thick parts that are glued together to form the final cap. I will likely use these when the time comes.
 
The bowsprit cap, as well as the mizzen mast cap and the fore and main topmast caps are cast metal and are useless - first because they make it impossible to add rigging features and second because the holes in them are not fully bored, and with only handtools to work with I could never get them into shape.
 
So, I'm faced with scratch building 4 mast caps - the bowsprit and mizzen caps are larger (about 2mm x 5mm) while the topmast caps are quite small (and may prove very difficult to craft...). Anyway, here is the only shot I have of the rough mast cap that I made. I gradually drilled holes at the appropriate locations and at an appropriate angle to account for the rake of the bowsprit. I then used round and square needle files to get the finished shape. After I took this shot, I sanded the sides down a bit more to match the size of Corel's part - something they seemed to get right.
 

 
The bobstays are a bit of an ambiguity. Goodwin (and Corel) shows only one, but Lees mentions that the 1719 Establishment allowed for 2 - he does not mention as he does elsewhere if this was only a practice on larger ships. I've taken the liberty of adding a second bobstay, less for historical reasons, then because I think it will look good.
 
However, Corel suggests using 5mm deadeyes for the bobstays and bowsprit shrouds but provides 4mm cast metal hearts for the fore stay, for preventer stay and main stay. Take a look.
 

 
I initially thought of ditching the metal hearts and making my own of a comparable size to the deadeyes, but again to my eye the deadeyes seemed too big and clunky for the model. So I decided to replace them with 3mm deadeyes, and to stick with the metal hearts.....sorry!!
 
Anyway, after agonising over how to make a single collar for all the deadeyes and the heart for the fore stay, I looked again at Lees only to discover that each of these rigging elements was put on with its own collar....! Filled with relief I went ahead and attached the remainder of the rigging elements, including
 
-- 3mm deadeyes for the bowsprit shrouds
-- 3mm deadeyes for the inner and outer bobstays
-- 4mm hearts for the forestay and fore preventer stay
-- ringbolts p/s on the upper sides of the cap for the bowsprit horses
-- two 3mm single blocks p/s on the lower sides of the cap for the spritsail lifts
-- two ringlbolts on the lower forward face of the cap for the jibboom footropes
-- a 4mm double block on the bottom of the cap for the spritsail jeers
-- a 4mm single block married to a 3mm single block for the fore topmast stay and the jib sail staysail downhaul.
-- a blackened brass ring service as a traveller
 
I also added the jibboom (3mm dowel cut to 72mm and tapered appropriately), the jibboom gammoning, the main stay heart and the bowsprit gammoning....here is the finished product....
 

 

 

 

 
All in all an eventful few days. On and on it goes....
hamilton

OK time for another update.
 
I've begun the masting with the bowsprit, which is now outfitted with most of the necessary rigging elements and installed on the model. I think I have more or less worked through the confusion over mast & spar lengths - thanks to the help of BE - and have come up with what I think is a good compromise between information provided in Lees and Goodwin and what looks pleasing to my eye. The lengths of the bowsprit and lower masts will be a bit longer than the scale calculations taken from Goodwin - like BE the scale lengths that I arrived at from Goodwin seemed a little short to my eye....all other mast and spar measurements will be derived from the scale measurement of the main mast as given by Goodwin, using Lees as the guide to calculation.
 
The bowsprit was cut and shaped from a 6mm dowel to a length of 111mm. This is longer than Goodwin's measurement by about 10mm, but I think it will look better on the model. 
 

 

 
Goodwin shows the bowsprit outfitted with bee blocks and though at 1:100 these are very small, I decided to give it a try. I shaped the bees from a 1/32 x 3/16" strip of lime. I filed a section of the top of the bowsprit to accept the bees and then installed the bee blocks underneath - these were 1mm x 1mm strips of light walnut. Turned out ok.
 

 

 
I used the same 1mm x 1mm strip to make the gammoning cleats and the stop chocks for the collars.
 

 
I couldn't get a good photo of it, but I also installed a sling cleat for the spritsail yard, including a 1/16" bit of pinstripe tape as an iron buffering bar on which the sling will lie.
 
I'll continue this in another post since for some reason I'm not allowed to upload many photos in a single post...
hamilton

Corel supplies laser cut walnut caps for the main and fore lower masts. These are each provided in 3 1.5mm thick parts that are glued together to form the final cap. I will likely use these when the time comes.
 
The bowsprit cap, as well as the mizzen mast cap and the fore and main topmast caps are cast metal and are useless - first because they make it impossible to add rigging features and second because the holes in them are not fully bored, and with only handtools to work with I could never get them into shape.
 
So, I'm faced with scratch building 4 mast caps - the bowsprit and mizzen caps are larger (about 2mm x 5mm) while the topmast caps are quite small (and may prove very difficult to craft...). Anyway, here is the only shot I have of the rough mast cap that I made. I gradually drilled holes at the appropriate locations and at an appropriate angle to account for the rake of the bowsprit. I then used round and square needle files to get the finished shape. After I took this shot, I sanded the sides down a bit more to match the size of Corel's part - something they seemed to get right.
 

 
The bobstays are a bit of an ambiguity. Goodwin (and Corel) shows only one, but Lees mentions that the 1719 Establishment allowed for 2 - he does not mention as he does elsewhere if this was only a practice on larger ships. I've taken the liberty of adding a second bobstay, less for historical reasons, then because I think it will look good.
 
However, Corel suggests using 5mm deadeyes for the bobstays and bowsprit shrouds but provides 4mm cast metal hearts for the fore stay, for preventer stay and main stay. Take a look.
 

 
I initially thought of ditching the metal hearts and making my own of a comparable size to the deadeyes, but again to my eye the deadeyes seemed too big and clunky for the model. So I decided to replace them with 3mm deadeyes, and to stick with the metal hearts.....sorry!!
 
Anyway, after agonising over how to make a single collar for all the deadeyes and the heart for the fore stay, I looked again at Lees only to discover that each of these rigging elements was put on with its own collar....! Filled with relief I went ahead and attached the remainder of the rigging elements, including
 
-- 3mm deadeyes for the bowsprit shrouds
-- 3mm deadeyes for the inner and outer bobstays
-- 4mm hearts for the forestay and fore preventer stay
-- ringbolts p/s on the upper sides of the cap for the bowsprit horses
-- two 3mm single blocks p/s on the lower sides of the cap for the spritsail lifts
-- two ringlbolts on the lower forward face of the cap for the jibboom footropes
-- a 4mm double block on the bottom of the cap for the spritsail jeers
-- a 4mm single block married to a 3mm single block for the fore topmast stay and the jib sail staysail downhaul.
-- a blackened brass ring service as a traveller
 
I also added the jibboom (3mm dowel cut to 72mm and tapered appropriately), the jibboom gammoning, the main stay heart and the bowsprit gammoning....here is the finished product....
 

 

 

 

 
All in all an eventful few days. On and on it goes....
hamilton

OK time for another update.
 
I've begun the masting with the bowsprit, which is now outfitted with most of the necessary rigging elements and installed on the model. I think I have more or less worked through the confusion over mast & spar lengths - thanks to the help of BE - and have come up with what I think is a good compromise between information provided in Lees and Goodwin and what looks pleasing to my eye. The lengths of the bowsprit and lower masts will be a bit longer than the scale calculations taken from Goodwin - like BE the scale lengths that I arrived at from Goodwin seemed a little short to my eye....all other mast and spar measurements will be derived from the scale measurement of the main mast as given by Goodwin, using Lees as the guide to calculation.
 
The bowsprit was cut and shaped from a 6mm dowel to a length of 111mm. This is longer than Goodwin's measurement by about 10mm, but I think it will look better on the model. 
 

 

 
Goodwin shows the bowsprit outfitted with bee blocks and though at 1:100 these are very small, I decided to give it a try. I shaped the bees from a 1/32 x 3/16" strip of lime. I filed a section of the top of the bowsprit to accept the bees and then installed the bee blocks underneath - these were 1mm x 1mm strips of light walnut. Turned out ok.
 

 

 
I used the same 1mm x 1mm strip to make the gammoning cleats and the stop chocks for the collars.
 

 
I couldn't get a good photo of it, but I also installed a sling cleat for the spritsail yard, including a 1/16" bit of pinstripe tape as an iron buffering bar on which the sling will lie.
 
I'll continue this in another post since for some reason I'm not allowed to upload many photos in a single post...
hamilton