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Haze Gray

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Everything posted by Haze Gray

  1. Haze Gray
    Now have section 1-4 printed, just two more to go (about 8 days or so) - was able to use the dinner table when my wife wasn't looking 😃
  2. Haze Gray
    Thought I'd drop in with a short update - sections 1 & 2 completed. 3rd section is printing and should complete sometime on Wednesday... things are a bit behind schedule due to power outage (and I biff'ed on resuming the print properly).
  3. Haze Gray
    Update - I've been spending the last week or so getting the hull ready to actually print - I've been taking hull and and slicing it up and putting in provisions for stepper actuated turrets. There's going to be 6 hull sections - the longest is the stern at 376mm (which is just shy of 15 inches) and I'm estimating about 18 total days to print all hull sections. While the hull in printing I'll finish up the deck work which is kind of the fun/extremely challenging part since there's really a gap in the plans on the details and will be mostly done by staring at photos for hours on end to get what details I can. Also, I'm including a link to a video as that might be interesting to some of you. https://youtu.be/xL65M7gmwas
  4. Haze Gray
  5. Haze Gray
    Hi Yuuki, I don’t think scaling it down to 1/350 would work well - some of the features are thin like 1mm so at 1/350 scale that becomes ~0.2mm. It might be possible with a resin printer do you have one of those?
  6. Haze Gray
    I'm starting to get into the part of the design where I have to lean more and more into what I can what I can understand based on the photos of the ship. There's really very little in the way of the original French designs for the structure above the main deck - sometimes I superimpose photos on the model to get a feel for how really was. I stared at 5 different images for 2 hours looking at the superstructure from different perspectives - there no way I can be 100% sure I'm working in the right direction I just tweak details as I go along and check and double check as I move forward.
  7. Haze Gray
    Thought I'd make a bit more progress before turning in
  8. Haze Gray
    Yeah a lot of the French ships have that steampunk flare to them (Pic is of the 'Devastation ')
  9. Haze Gray
    I did some more work on the Charles Martel last night - good to get back to it. I have a bunch of boats that I'm working on so they often compete for my time 😃
  10. Haze Gray
    Yes a lot of the French tumblehome designs suffered from a range of stability issues. They added a couple of really tall, really heavy military masts which would have made for some real fun!
  11. Haze Gray
    Hi Yuuki, the model is designed at 1/72 scale and would be 1.6 meters long - are you looking for a project that big?
  12. Haze Gray
    Well Done Floyd - BRAVO ZULU! Photo's look great and I doubt there's another school out there that have a demonstrative tug and barge - gives Mike some real bragging rights 😃 It's hard to really get a feel for the true size of the barge - you have to see it in person - it is truly LARGE.
  13. Haze Gray
    Floyd, have you had successful trials with PLA welding? when I tried it I got very inconsistent (bad) results but I may have been spinning up to high - When you lined up the railing, how big is the difference in the deck height? If you can line up the deck and the hull and the keel acceptably and only have the railing to fix, that would be the way I would go. It's going to be easier to add material/filler and build up a flush surface on the railing than it would be to shave/remove material. The plastic will hate you from trying to remove more than 1mm of material and it will remind you that the skin is thin, especially in section 5. We could always hang tires over the side too to help hide seam lines Another alternative is to line up the keel and the hull and the railing acceptably and if you only have the deck that's out of alignment then a sheet of wood or other material + filler could be used to bring the main deck up to match.
  14. Haze Gray
    LOL I was trying to keep a low profile -! I actually went through 4 iterations of the hull if you can imagine getting 12-20 hours into something and going "nope, not gonna work". I'm including pictures showing versions 1,3, & 4 - version 1 was some experimentation I did when it looked like all we would have to go on was 7 photos of low quality - version 2 had only a few partial frames to work with and no general arrangements - gleefully deleted cause I hated it so much which is why I can't show it - Version 3 we had gotten just maybe not quite enough and I had to leverage some schematics of a similar tug to get there. - Version 4 was completed using about 20% of Version 3 and about 60 photos from an on-site visit of the tug which turned out to be critical in completing the design The promise of 3D printing boats (or anything else) are perfect parts, that fit together perfectly, perform and look perfect. - Unfortunately there are multiple realities (some of them good, quite a few of them bad) when you actually attempt it because the printing part is experience, skill, and science driven - but I don't think that's different than any construction technique - I remember building a FW 190 out of balsa from a Gillows kit in highschool - glued it all together perfectly but the balsa was green and when it dried overnight the fuselage was bent like a banana - totally unusable. For me - I'm all in on 3d printing - probably because I can do all the design work, planning, and integration of elements which is a very pleasing part (and I do okay with the printing quality!)
  15. Haze Gray
    Hi Ben, The way it works is actually only 1 magnet (neodymium) down at the bottom of the hollow column (basically a pipe), the base of the water cannon has a step in that narrows down the end to fit into the column but at end of it is a steel screw - steel screw contacts and is held in place by the 5mm magnet - two magnets might work but the steel screw is adjustable ensuring proper contact.
  16. Haze Gray
    Hi Ben, I contributed to the project a bit - the school wanted certain features and one of them was for the nozzles/water cannons to rotate - and the thought is the magnets would allow for the 360° rotation while also being easy to replace should they get snapped off by enthusiastic students. There's a couple of other components that were made to allow for removal and replacement (pretty much anything that was going to be actuated or manipulated by hand).
  17. Haze Gray
    So I ended up ordering a Folger FT5 printer kit (basically an H-Bot type printer) I am definitely going to need more printers but I want to try out building a kit to see what I want to change and at the same time I'm intrigued by the H-bot style where the build plate only moves down and the print head moves in the X/Y planes. I really need about 5 -6 printers but not sure if I have the space in man-cave for them. Also, will need to spend some time on constructing the mikasa in Fusion 360- that was a fun excursion and visit on that ship! I have more than enough data on the boat (actually I have photos and data on about 250 ships at this time and 2TB+ of photos plans!)
  18. Haze Gray
    Yes, interesting isn't it? Would absolutely be ideal for smaller detail parts, infact...I suspect you print 100 railing posts at the same time just as fast as printing 1....there's no time penalty to printing multiple parts as it prints any layer of all parts at the same time not one after another..... 1L is about 1kg, so if $70/L it's easily twice as expensive as typical filament for your average fused filament 3d printer.
  19. Haze Gray
    I'm in the market for another printer (it would cut the printing element of my development time by 50%! which would be a BIG improvement) and you would think that already having one printer would make it easy for me to choose what my 2nd one would be but all I have is an ever expanding list of wanted features! I'm suddenly interested in the DLP and SLA as they have some great resolution (anycubic photon DLP is ~$500!) but the limited size and resin fumes and need for post wash and cure is troublesome. The typical FDM/FFF is still a nice solid bit of technology that's easy to use and affordable but has some inherent limitations. If only there was some SLS printers in the 250mm cubed range wth 0.05mm layer height that were affordable, that would really open up possibilities.
  20. Haze Gray
    Very much Appreciated the invite and wish I could have stayed longer. Will certainly come whenever I can, Good bunch of fellows you have there! Will have to touch base with you when I get back in Seattle next week!
  21. Haze Gray
    Off on vacation this week but will post a few pictures of the hull of the Maine when I get back, the name plate on the stern of the boat did print out and didn’t look bad at all. So, vacationing in japan, not too far from Yokosuka where the (pre-dreadnaught) Mikasa sits, had to stop by, pretty interesting, couple photos of that ship....
  22. Haze Gray
    Good morning, another photo and getting closer- last section will be done this evening. I’m also going to start experimenting with printing at 1/96 scale which could be a good compromise between size and presentation.
  23. Haze Gray
    Whups wrong thread- deleted!
  24. Haze Gray
    Okay, I just had to give this name plate a try - 2 hours later..... it has the similarity of features but obviously not what I would call close... will be fun to see how much of it comes out in printing. one of those things that would be way easier and much better if just done by hand !!! (and Yes I need to adjust those ports for the stern lines but that's easy) Also hull in the photo is 80% printed, working on last two sections!
  25. Haze Gray
    I’m using 3mm filament and a 0.4mm nozzle, most of the sections I do at .14 layer height but a few are at .20 layer height.

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