AndyMech

I built the kit "as is" with the exception of the eyebolts.  I do think they could be used, you would just have to be a little more careful when tying lines off so as not to break them.  Making wire replacements is pretty easy though, should you choose to do so.
 
I also used the kit ratlines, and I think they are just OK.  Real shrouds and ratlines would look much better, and be pretty easy, if tedious, to install.  I had very few issues with the deadeyes, just be super careful gluing them together.
 
I think the only other thing I replaced was the hammock netting - you can check my log for that detail.
 
Andy.

Update:
 
Waterline marked, using my favorite martini glass on a smooth level kitchen countertop

 

 
Hull painted green, it took approximately 20 coats of Liquitex Hooker's Green acrylic.  Next up was setting the masts and putting in the small wooden framing at the base of them.
 

 

 
Finally, I started the process of the lower shrouds.  The upper shrouds on the foremast were done prior to the setting them.
 

 

Update:
 
Waterline marked, using my favorite martini glass on a smooth level kitchen countertop

 

 
Hull painted green, it took approximately 20 coats of Liquitex Hooker's Green acrylic.  Next up was setting the masts and putting in the small wooden framing at the base of them.
 

 

 
Finally, I started the process of the lower shrouds.  The upper shrouds on the foremast were done prior to the setting them.
 

 

Update:
 
Waterline marked, using my favorite martini glass on a smooth level kitchen countertop

 

 
Hull painted green, it took approximately 20 coats of Liquitex Hooker's Green acrylic.  Next up was setting the masts and putting in the small wooden framing at the base of them.
 

 

 
Finally, I started the process of the lower shrouds.  The upper shrouds on the foremast were done prior to the setting them.
 

 

Update:
 
Waterline marked, using my favorite martini glass on a smooth level kitchen countertop

 

 
Hull painted green, it took approximately 20 coats of Liquitex Hooker's Green acrylic.  Next up was setting the masts and putting in the small wooden framing at the base of them.
 

 

 
Finally, I started the process of the lower shrouds.  The upper shrouds on the foremast were done prior to the setting them.
 

 

Update:
 
Waterline marked, using my favorite martini glass on a smooth level kitchen countertop

 

 
Hull painted green, it took approximately 20 coats of Liquitex Hooker's Green acrylic.  Next up was setting the masts and putting in the small wooden framing at the base of them.
 

 

 
Finally, I started the process of the lower shrouds.  The upper shrouds on the foremast were done prior to the setting them.
 

 

Update:
 
Waterline marked, using my favorite martini glass on a smooth level kitchen countertop

 

 
Hull painted green, it took approximately 20 coats of Liquitex Hooker's Green acrylic.  Next up was setting the masts and putting in the small wooden framing at the base of them.
 

 

 
Finally, I started the process of the lower shrouds.  The upper shrouds on the foremast were done prior to the setting them.
 

 

I plan to rig without sails, following the instructions, as best I can make it out.  I first tried to use the plans to identify all the blocks that need to be tied to the masts and yards, and I'll add those.
 
Add blocks to masts, yards and booms Glue the masts in place (mainly because of the angle - if they were straight up and down, I probably wouldn't glue) Do the shrouds Standing rigging Bowsprit? Booms? Running rigging? I don't really know, hopefully it will take shape after the shrouds go in.  At some point, I need to also glue in all the deck furniture before the rigging gets too crowded.
 
Andy.

Wow, has it really been since May 11 as my last update?  Time sure does fly sometimes.
 
Well, work has been going, albeit slowly.  Now that end-of-school activities are over, and my daughter has graduated high school, I can finally post an update.
 
I've been working on the yards - there are 4 total (just the one mast obviously), and I've been attaching blocks, doing the footropes and adding the spars.
 
Here's the result:
 

 

 

 
Next up, the part I've been dreading - the main mast insertion.  I'm pretty convinced that I won't need to glue it as it's a snug fit through the 3 decks and into the hull, and the shrouds should hold it in place as well.  I am a bit worried about the strength of the lower deadeyes, and I'm still working out in my head how to best attach the shrouds to the upper deadeyes, rig the two dead eyes and keep them all as even and level as I can.
 
Here's my thoughts on how to do it:
 
1.  Since there are only 3 shrouds per side, I was going to tie and seize the 4 lines at the mast top first (2 lines per side, one will go to the center deadeye, and the other will go to the two outer deadeyes)
2.  Make a wire jig to guide and attach the lower deadeye to the upper one
3.  Tie and seize (tightly) the shroud to the upper deadeye when it's held in place by the wire jig
4.  Remove the wire jig and add the rigging through the deadeyes.  I figure if I pull the rigging tight enough it will return the upper deadeye to it's jigged position.
5.  Repeat for all the other shroud/deadeyes - hoping this will result in a strong, level, even set.
 
If anyone has any advice or better ideas, I'm all ears.  
 
Andy.

I know it's been a long time since I've posted an update.  No photos at this point, but I've constructed all the masts, yards, etc.  Added the footropes, and some blocks. 
 
I am struggling with how to begin the rigging process.  I'd like to do as much as possible on the masts before mounting them and putting in the shrouds, but the plans are confusing, and there's not a step-by-step list of rigging, specific to the POBII.
 
My hull is also still unpainted, and, to be honest, it's likely to stay that way.  I'll try to take photos of my masts/yards/bowsprit this weekend.
 
Andy.

Hi Karl, thanks for posting and following my build.  I'll subscribe to your as well - always good to have another Baltimore builder here.  
 
My progress is slow, so I'll likely be learning from you in no time.
 
Andy.

Thanks, jcoby, I've not yet decided on what to do about the lettering.  Maybe find some small letters at a hobby shop?  I don't think my skills are up for a hand-lettered attempt - it would look terrible.  I can put that off indefinitely, as there's nothing else on the transom that needs work.
 
I've been spending a lot of time painting the inside of the bulwarks - it's got difficult access, and so it taking some time.  I hope to have photos of that in a few days, then I can move on to some of the deck furniture or perhaps the gunport lids.  I can also then add the blackened eyebolts once the painting is done.
 
Andy.

I've looked through the plans, and I was saving that 1/32x1/32 piece for:
 
- framing around each of the gunports - the instructions mention using two small vertical pieces of this, but also call this as optional.  That would be 20 short pieces, but overall it adds up.
- in the transom, as the two curved pieces that separate the mahogany from the yellow sections
 
Also, I have only one 1/32x1/32, and it's not long enough for both port and starboard sides.  I doubt there's a local supply of wood here, so I feel compelled to use the kit's resources.
 
Andy.

Unbelievable. You are absolutely right, I had each stanchion turned 90 degrees. Thank you for pointing this out before it was too late. Looking at the plans, I thought there was a forward rake, when it is indeed an outward one. I've just removed each one and test fitted it. I'll need to clean out the leftover glue and start over again with the positioning and re-glue. I'm glad I've not yet started the port side.
 
Thanks for speaking up!
 
While you're here, can I ask how you fabricated the two hawse timbers, at the bow end of the bulwarks? The plans say to use 2 pieces per side, but I can't seem to find wood of the correct size in the kit.
 
Feeling chagrined and relieved,
Andy

Thanks, I'll check those plans again.  I'll hope to stain this next weekend, so thanks for those tips.
 
Andy.

This is a followup to jcoby advice to install the port/starboard eyes for the boom.  I've look at the plans, it seems that those eyes go on the railing and are not at deck level.
 
Here's a photo of the plans:
 

 
There is also a side view on sheet 5 I think that clearly shows them on railing:
 

 
Maybe I'm missing something?  My deck is finished planking - see next post for photos, and before I continue I want to make sure of this if I need to make things easier in the future.
 
Andy.

Hi jcoby, thanks for that advice - I will need to look on the plans for those 2 eyes.  After deck planking, I was planning on working on the stanchions, bulwarks and railing above the deck.  So, putting these eyes in prior to that makes sense as the deck is wide open right now.
 
I can't imagine doing the deck planking - especially the nibbing work, after the bulwarks are installed - it's hard enough to get a knife at the nibbing plank as it is now, much less if the bulwarks are in the way.
 
 
Andy.

Thanks for the link, I'll look into it.  I've decided to hold off on further nibbing until I can get some better files, so I'll continue instead to lay planks down the center as best I can.
 
Andy.

Thanks, Sjors. I believe the plans call for the hull to be painted, but I will hold off on that until I finish sanding, planking the counter and re-read the instructions.
 
Andy

Well, it seems then that I'm on the right track and I need to hone my skills with practice.  It's nice to get the assurance that what I'm doing isn't totally out of left field.
 
Brian, thanks for the advice - I'll keep plugging along.  I can do maybe 1-2 strakes a day at my rate, but I only really get to work on the weekends, so it may be a while before the next photo update.
 
Andy.

Brian,
 
Thanks for that explanation.  I spent some time today trying to see how I would apply that to my situation, and it's really not too different than what I am currently doing:
 
- Each plank I'm putting on spans 4 bulkheads, so a reasonable length
- I mark the width of the plank to be fitted at each bulkhead, based on the tick marks, not just the two ends.
- Using a sharp #11 (as you indicated), score line in the plank, connecting the dots - each width at the bulkhead locations
- Sand, as necessary to fit
- I often soak each plank in water after initial sanding, and then clamp in place to get the bend in the plank - let it dry, then shape/sand it more before gluing.
 
There are some planks which are indicated to be wider in the middle than at the ends - planks in the center bulkheads for example.  Using just the "end mark" technique, wouldn't I end up cutting too much off the middle of the plank?
 
Maybe in that case I should mark the widest part of the plank and taper to each end?  Then, it's not much different than my current technique.
 
Andy.

Next up was to mark the planking bands on the bulkheads.  The instructions and plans both called for 4 planking bands and the planks had them marked for each bulkhead.
 
First, I cut strips of stiff paper to the curved length between the wales and keel, labeling each one with the bulkhead letter and a Port or Starboard mark:
 

 
Then, curving the paper to the plans, I marked each plank, with a thicker mark for the bands separation.
 

 
Next, I placed the marked paper on the appropriate bulkhead and marked the bulkheads with the plank and band markings.  Lastly, I glued (with diluted white glue) black thread to the marking on the bands.
 

 

 

 

 
So, a couple of observations.  One, I certainly need to now adjust the thread for a clean run.  I will probably also use a strip of wood to help with this - in order to ensure a nice curve without sudden changes.  You can see some obvious abrupt shifts in the thread that need to fixed.  Without using the thread or some other batten, I don't think it would have been so obvious.
 
Another observation is that such obvious errors in the thread layout is surprising to me.  I double-checked the plans, and all the measurements are fine and correct, yet the thread lays poorly.  I guess I had hoped the plans would be better than that, or my previous shaping of the bulkheads and wale planks caused some errors.  I will post again with the fixed thread layouts.
 
Finally, I think  I should NOT have included the internal plank markings - since I have to move the threads a bit, I think I should erase them and re-draw them using the actual distance between the battens and just divide by 6 or 7 depending on which band it is.  That should give me a better, more even distribution of the plank widths on each bulkhead.
 
Any thoughts or comments or "stop! you're doing it wrong!" are appreciated at this point.  Thanks for reading.
 
Andy.

Mark and Augie,
 
First, thanks much for spending so much time for me on this - a response like this is what I like best about this forum.
 
Here's what I hope is a better photo of my issue - it also matches the diagram I created:
 

 
The gap there between the bulkhead and the square plank (2nd plank of the wales) is 3/64" or about 1/2 of the plank width itself.
 

 
This shows the 3rd wales plank dry-fitted in at close to a 45 degree angle to make it's edge touch to the bulkead.  My thought, at this point, is to bevel that plank dramatically - maybe sand up to half the plank in this section to make it fit.  Mark's diagram pointed out that I should have done that for the 2nd plank when I saw the 3/64" gap, but since I didn't I feel I have to make up for 2 plank's worth on the 3rd one.  Here's my (rough) idea:
 

 
Then, sanding the outside, using sawdust+glue if necessary to fill it in will hopefully make it look ok.
 
Quick question for Mark - you mentioned specifically to NOT use PVA (wood glue) when mixing with sawdust.  I'm curious - what's the reason behind that?
 
I'm not sure I'll have enough time to do this today, and I'm going out of town for a week, so it may be a while before responding.  I'm not giving up though!
 
Andy.

Hi Augie, (and anyone else who might be reading)
 
Yes, that's been my technique when laying the wales planks - I cut them to size, soak in water for a while, then clamp them to the hull in position to let them dry in the shape needed.  After they dry, then I glue and clamp them in place.
 
Here's a picture I drew of the issue with the wales:
 

 
The bulkhead is sloping drastically away from the line of the other 2 that it leaves quite a step, which doesn't seem right.  Beveling it won't push it further out from the bulkhead, it would make the step-effect worse, I think.
 
To me, it seems like the bulkhead should have had a longer straight run before sloping to the keel to allow room for the 3 wale planks.  But, maybe I was too aggressive when fairing them, so it's probably my fault.
 
The question is, how to fix it?  Should I either 1) line up the 3rd wales plank with the other 2 and fill in the gap with some shim or 2) lay the 3rd plank against the bulkhead and live with this step effect?
 
Going with option 2 seems bad, so I'm inclined to do option 1, but I would want to ship the bulkhead before adding the 3rd plank, yes?
 
Any advice would be most welcome.
 
Andy.

Please be aware, if you paint everything first, that using a plastic cement to glue them together later will require scraping the paint off where the cement needs to be applied.
 
If you don't use a plastic cement, then that scraping may not be necessary - but the plastic cement melts the plastic and when it dries it reforms.  Paint gets in the way of that.  I did just that when I built this model (or one just like it) years ago - painted everything, then glued.  The paint melts into a goopy mess and the glue bond isn't nearly as strong.
 
For my Constitution, done later, much better results were had by making sure each bond was plastic-to-plastic.  Also, use very little plastic cement, applied with a needle or pin.  The prevents puddles of glue messing up your nice paint job.
 
Andy.