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Richmond

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  • Location
    Darwin, Northern Territory, Australia
  • Interests
    Model Aircraft 1/32 Scale, Wooden Ships, Card

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  1. Yes some of those plastic kits have attached instructions which you can download - it gives you another perspective at least.
  2. Here is a link to the Borodino on the Scalemates site https://www.scalemates.com/topics/topic.php?id=23657
  3. Some of these specialty products are a waste of time - but not in this case. I have just purchased one recently having knocked over several bottles. I think AUD 30.00 (USD 20.00) is money well spent with a bottle of Extra Thin retailing at AUD 10.00. For me it will not take long to recoup the costs especially when you bring cutting mats and half built models into the equation.
  4. Have a look at their website - I am sure it can be thinned - in fact I have some Vallejo thinner in my stash
  5. From my point of view it wouldn't really matter - if French ships have their own classifications I could split all the French ships into their different types away from the other ships. At the moment it is a complete jumble. With same ships being categorised into multiple classes /types. We recently cleaned up the USS Constitution which was sitting across 5 topics and categorised it Frigate United States-class - however I would have preferred Sail frigate United States-class. The motorships are simple as for more modern vessels as if in doubt we tend to stick to the NATO naming convention otherwise Russian /Soviet ships would get very complex with their Project X designations. The Chinese ships are a bit of a mismatch between Chinese Type XXX and NATO classifications as we haven't actually decided to use only NATO for their ships and maybe the Chinese members wouldn't like it if we did.
  6. Thank you so much for all this interesting information I am tasking myself to reclassify all sail ships currently sitting on the Scalemates database and I am sure I will keep coming back to seek more advice Richmond
  7. Another area of confusion for me is the classification of sailing ships - for most motorships we have a type (Destroyer) and class (Kagero-class) or where there is just a single ship in that type we could state Destroyer - USS XXXX and perhaps have the year in brackets specifically if there are multiple of examples of that ships name I have seen HMS Victory classified 104-gun first-rate ship of the line - is this a description a combination of class and type and if so which bit is the type and which bit is the class. So where I am going with this is Can a sailing ship be classified in a similar pattern to a motorship?
  8. When looking at reference materials and we see ship classified as follows Name of ship ( Year) is there a clear consensus as to what the year represents - for example is it the year it was ordered, built, launched or commissioned?
  9. Some brands of acrylic paint are soluble in alcohol. One has to experiment. I've had only moderate success airbrushing when thinned with alcohol. They did not cover well and required repeated application. Alcohol speeds up the drying time a bit. The other shortcomings of acrylics remain. If you get chance have a look at Scaleaton and Plasmo's builds on Youtube (both superb modelers) they are not shy in using IPA to thin their acrylics. Personally I prefer Mr Color Leveling Thinner to thin my Tamiyas and Mr Colours. There is a school of thought which states you should thin with own brands - I assume this would only apply to the solvent based acrylics - I believe true acrylics can be thinned with water however I have never used a true acrylic so couldn't say for sure. For those stating that acrylic paints are expensive - in comparison to what ? I assume you are not shooting undiluted acrylics through your airbrush - they need to be thinned - when you bar a jar of acrylic you should get, as a minimum, 2 to 1 use - to me this is good value.
  10. I would hazard a guess that the majority of plastic models are painted with acrylics nowadays and probably masked with Tamiya tape. There are many wonderful examples on here. Tamiya acrylics are my go to paint (they are not a true acrylic) - thinned with Mr Colour Levelling Thinner (you can use IPA) many people are going over to the true acrylics for health /enviro reasons - personally I don't like them but have seen wonderful models produced with them On the assumption you are not cutting corners with cheap rip offs, your issues with your acrylics /masking are probably due to builder error/inexperience There is a good article on masking in the recent journal.
  11. The refill pens this company makes seems to be getting popular - irritating website I'm afraid https://www.molotow.com/
  12. Just noticed this log, wish I had seen it before I started mine. Very nice build and much better colour scheme then the one I selected.
  13. A weekend update No major dramas to report other than poor fitting problems as you will note with the upper deck modules - I probably will not attend to these given the multi colour nature of the paintwork. I may try some weathering Really I just want to put to this to bed and move onto something else (i.e. a modern kit!) One thing I did do was pre-drill all the decks ready for rigging - I will go into more detail when I reach the rigging stage

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