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  1. A lightbox to check the fit of your joints. Crikey! That's levels of precision I've never thought about let alone attempted to achieve. Superb work. Fred
  2. Thanks chaps. I hope to finish planking the wales this weekend and then I will try inserting photos in text again.
  3. Finally can someone please tell me how, having uploaded a picture, you can continue text. I can't figure it out. All the best everyone. Fred
  4. On W1 the frames were out side to side and I used a bucket full of of car body filler to get things straight. I can see now,looking at all the other super logs, that that's for chumps. This is looking much better. I've added frames bf3 and bf4 however. The yellow tape follows the marks on the plan exactly and looks pretty good without any tweaking.
  5. W2 was supposed to eliminate the errors I made on W1 not introduce new ones I didn't make first time round. Still, the repair was pretty straightforward. I cut out the fillers with the razor saw, glued a 1mm strip on either side to replace the saw cut and glued them back in. They have not come out badly at all. Here two are done.
  6. Here is the problem. I used the plan of the transom very carefully aligning the top of the stern frames to the plan. I should not have done. It is now clear to me that I should have aligned the "red line" with the sculpted part of the stern frames. Thus
  7. And just as it all seemed to be going so well....... That is the chapter 4 deck clamp. The transom fillers are way too high. The deck beam will cut across the window.
  8. One of the problems with cutting your own bulkheads is, inevitably, and no matter how much care you take, that they will be less accurate then the superb laser cut frames from Syren. I had real problems with the stern frames on W1. Here, I am trying a different route. The vertical board at the back may look a bit low tech but it is there to position the frames accurately one to the other and at the correct angle. There is a 1mm sliver of wood behind the outer frames to give the transom some curvature.
  9. That's looking superb JJ! I really admire your restraint leaving the sanding of the hull until all the planking has been done. I found the temptation to neaten things up a bit by sanding as you go irresistible even though it causes difficulties with the lie of adjacent planks. Keep up the good work Fred
  10. Thanks chaps. Joe, I entirely agree with you. I can't shake off the "could do it better second time round feeling" and the Wnchelsea is such a super project it warrants another go. The Proxxon seems a really good bit of kit not that I have anything to compare it to. I have found the second set of bulkheads much easier to cut more accurately than the first. I think that is a combination of little more experience with the saw and using Plywood lite. I'm much more confident of a good outcome than I was at the equivalent stage with W1 but time will tell. All the best everyo
  11. Hi Greg May I offer a few thoughts about cutting your own bulkheads/bulkhead former? First, it is the cutting out of slots in the bulkheads that really matters. A little bit of "out" in the slot will mean a big "out" at the horns of the bulkheads. I found that out, to my cost, with my first Winchelsea build. For W2 I have printed an extra set of the bulkhead plans and I lay each bulkhead, as I cut it out, on a clean plan examining the cut out slot very carefully for accuracy before any filing. Next, I draw the centre line of the bulkhead on the clean plan, at deck lev
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