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KHauptfuehrer

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  1. The port open foot walings and rising strake installed. T The breast and stern foot walings have been done in the same manner as the ones in my first attempt at a Pinnace build, except that the details were first printed on brochure paper, the design treated with flat spray fixative, and then glued onto 1/64" birch plywood as in the whaleboats/gigs.
  2. I decided to install all the loose foot walings and the rising on one side first, then do the other side, applying lessons learned from the first side. These foot walings are .020" by 1/16" basswood planking stock from Bluejacket instead of card stock, which sagged a bit between ribs in my last attempt. The ribs in the Bluejacket casting are straighter, but these are closer to being in scale. My 1/32" inboard gunwale strake deviates much less than the one in the Bluejacket casting, and therefore will not interfere with the installation of the breast decking, the thwarts, and the stern bench, which will sit on the rising (identified as the clamp in the instruction book). The splash strake will be painted only after the external gunwale strake has been installed, and the oar locks have been cut. The slightly flatter bottom of the boat shape allowed all the waling strakes to be installed more easily.
  3. Here is less my less than prize winning first attempt at ribs for the pinnace. I submit this in the hopes that another novice out there might be alerted to possible pitfalls this method may pose. I determined the spacing with dividers set to match the plan, which I scanned from the instruction booklet then sized in Corel Draw to match the 1/96 scale. Those plastic strips bend every which way, and I found that keeping them straight while handling the casting, the ribs, and the CA glue dispenser simultaneously was a real challenge. One advantage of the Bluejacket casting is that you can fix the attached block of resin in a vise. I finally found that clamping the rib on one side and holding it with my finger on the other side. worked better. The first 5 ribs forward and the last 2 ribs aft were done that way. I tried to free the broken rib with CA debonder to no avail. I do not know what to call the extra ribs that help support the foot waling, so I will just call them waling ribs. These were glued in at the center line and left extra long and loose at the outboard end, so I can trim them once I have determined how long they should be. To do this, I plan to temporarily install the foot waling strakes with rubber cement, mark the proper length, remove the walings, cut the ribs, then glue them down. This done, my boat project will hopefully look better than it now does. The next time I do this, I will adopt Geoff's suggestion of grinding the clothespin jaws to match the curve of the boat's hull. While I am at it, I might also try cutting off the nose section of the jaws, so the occluding part is visible as I work. I felt that I was "flying blind" much of the time while using the clothespins.
  4. That is great advice! Thank you so much! I have just finished doing the ribs on this boat, but I will definitely try your techniques on the next one. I think I got the spacings right, but did not always get the ribs to lie perfectly straight. I thought of using a spacer, but could not figure out a way to avoid gluing it in along with the rib with the liquid CA glue I was using. As soon as I glue in the inboard gunwale strakes, I will post the results.
  5. I ordered another casting of the pinnace from Bluejacket in the hopes that the deviating inboard gunwale strake described above was an anomaly. As always, I found the folks at Bluejacket to be both accessible and friendly. I appreciated the fact that they made several castings to select the best one for me. Unfortunately, as you can see, the gunwale strake deviates up and down as before. This would not be a problem if the strake was 1/32" wide as it is in the plan. However, the width of the strake (1/8") puts its bottom edge at the level that the thwarts are to be installed. If the plan is to be followed, these thwarts must therefore butt up against the bottom of the gunwale strake. Consequently, the deviation seriously interferes with the proper installation of the thwarts. I therefore ordered a boat shell casting of comparable size from Caldercraft. As you can see, this is a clean cast. No filing, filling, shaping, or sanding needed here. The obvious disadvantage is that now I will have to do the ribs, keelson, stemson, and sternpost knee myself. Also, the boat is cast to a different scale, and is 1/8" too short, so, if I use it, my Constitution will have a 35' pinnace instead of a 36' pinnace. Comparing the shape of each casting with the plans, I see that neither casting matches the plan exactly, but I think that the Caldercraft is a bit closer. It looks like I will have a bit more room to install the foot waling strakes to get the proper number. The The obvious disadvantage is that I will have to do the rib, keelson, stemson, and sternpost myself if I use the Caldercraft. If I continue with my modeling, I will need to acquire these skills at some point anyway, so I might as well have a go at it. The plan is to do these details and see which pinnace looks the best. Accordingly, I ordered .020" by .030" by 14" styrene strips from Evergreen scale models. Here goes... I am almost done with the ribs. I will post the results when I complete them.
  6. Gorgeous work! Bluejacket makes Britannia metal bullseyes of various sizes. You would have to treat them or paint them to make them look like wood, but they would not crumble.
  7. I have only recently realized that the three smaller boats that I have been working on are not whaleboats. They are captain's gigs. Although both types of boats are double ended, they are shaped differently, and whale boats do not have splash strakes fore and aft as the gigs do. The planking pattern of the stern benches and the bow decking are also different. The pattern I have reproduced here are for whale boats. Too late to change one of them to the gig configuration now. Oh well... Also, whale boats have a bent sternpost essentially identical to the stem, and gigs have a straight stern post. The cast gigs supplied by Bluejacket most closely resemble gigs, but their stern posts are only mostly straight. And so the question arises - which type of rudder to use: the one pictured above for a straight stern post, or a paddle shaped one suitable for a bent stern post? I opted for the design pictured above which is scanned from the Marquardt, imported into Corel Draw, and sized to scale, then printed out on card stock to make a template. This design is to be used for all four boats. Mounting the rudders on the boats is problematic, because their stern posts are "neither fish nor fowl". Fortunately, it was customary to stow the rudders inside the boats, so this is what I will do. Four rudders were cut out of 1/64" birch plywood, and notched to accommodate the pintles. 1/16" lengths of .020 brass rod were cut for pins and glued to the forward edges of the rudders so that 1/32" would protrude downward into the notch. Pintle straps were made from brochure paper which had been printed black on the computer, then coated with satin varnish. The rudder post was cut into sections and a piece of card stock painted black and cut into 1/16" strips glued to either side so that a 1/32" gap would be created into which the tiller would be inserted. I wanted to make them so that I can either insert the tiller(s) into the rudders, or display them side by side. The tillers were made form 1/32" x 1/32" basswood stock rounded at one end by twirling it with one hand and holding the other end against sandpaper with the other hand. .
  8. I am now struggling with the cast boats and trying to decide how to paint the outer hulls of the whale boats. Your incorporating the outer surface of the splash strakes with the rubbing molding in the color scheme is the only solution that works with these castings, so I will emulate it. Congrats on the tholes. I am not sure how I will do these. Nice work!
  9. I tried the decals, and I prefer the method shown above. The decal darkened the items on which it was applied slightly making a color match difficult. With several trials and errors, I did manage to match the color of the printed design to the painted wood pretty well. The nice thing about the whale boat castings is that the raised floor made it easy to install thwart stanchions. Just drill the hole, insert brass rod, and paint. Getting the thwarts done was more challenging. I used 3/32" by .020" planking stock from Bluejacket. Here is another shot which shows the thwart stanchions.
  10. I am wondering what size blocks you used when rigging your boats to their davits. I am thinking 1/8" size, but it could be 3/32". Thanks so much! Kurt
  11. I recently came across a discussion in which there was a posting of one of my build photos to illustrate a point. It was taken down by admin. because I had not given permission to use it. I hereby give permission for my photos to be used. Even if it is to illustrate what not to do, I am OK with it if it will help someone else in their modeling endeavors.

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