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  1. I have only recently realized that the three smaller boats that I have been working on are not whaleboats. They are captain's gigs. Although both types of boats are double ended, they are shaped differently, and whale boats do not have splash strakes fore and aft as the gigs do. The planking pattern of the stern benches and the bow decking are also different. The pattern I have reproduced here are for whale boats. Too late to change one of them to the gig configuration now. Oh well... Also, whale boats have a bent sternpost essentially identical to the stem, and gigs have a straight stern post. The cast gigs supplied by Bluejacket most closely resemble gigs, but their stern posts are only mostly straight. And so the question arises - which type of rudder to use: the one pictured above for a straight stern post, or a paddle shaped one suitable for a bent stern post? I opted for the design pictured above which is scanned from the Marquardt, imported into Corel Draw, and sized to scale, then printed out on card stock to make a template. This design is to be used for all four boats. Mounting the rudders on the boats is problematic, because their stern posts are "neither fish nor fowl". Fortunately, it was customary to stow the rudders inside the boats, so this is what I will do. Four rudders were cut out of 1/64" birch plywood, and notched to accommodate the pintles. 1/16" lengths of .020 brass rod were cut for pins and glued to the forward edges of the rudders so that 1/32" would protrude downward into the notch. Pintle straps were made from brochure paper which had been printed black on the computer, then coated with satin varnish. The rudder post was cut into sections and a piece of card stock painted black and cut into 1/16" strips glued to either side so that a 1/32" gap into which the tiller would be inserted. I wanted to make them so that I can either insert the tiller(s) into the rudders, or display them side by side. The tillers were made form 1/32" x 1/32" basswood stock rounded at one end by twirling it with one hand and holding the other end against sandpaper with the other hand. .
  2. I am now struggling with the cast boats and trying to decide how to paint the outer hulls of the whale boats. Your incorporating the outer surface of the splash strakes with the rubbing molding in the color scheme is the only solution that works with these castings, so I will emulate it. Congrats on the tholes. I am not sure how I will do these. Nice work!
  3. I tried the decals, and I prefer the method shown above. The decal darkened the items on which it was applied slightly making a color match difficult. With several trials and errors, I did manage to match the color of the printed design to the painted wood pretty well. The nice thing about the whale boat castings is that the raised floor made it easy to install thwart stanchions. Just drill the hole, insert brass rod, and paint. Getting the thwarts done was more challenging. I used 3/32" by .020" planking stock from Bluejacket. Here is another shot which shows the thwart stanchions.
  4. I am wondering what size blocks you used when rigging your boats to their davits. I am thinking 1/8" size, but it could be 3/32". Thanks so much! Kurt
  5. I recently came across a discussion in which there was a posting of one of my build photos to illustrate a point. It was taken down by admin. because I had not given permission to use it. I hereby give permission for my photos to be used. Even if it is to illustrate what not to do, I am OK with it if it will help someone else in their modeling endeavors.
  6. While waiting for the decal supplies to arrive from Micromark, I have gone ahead with the plan to print out the design on brochure paper, then glue it onto a 1/64" birch plywood backing to see if I could implement the plan effectively. I made up the stern sheet foot waling, the stern sheet bench, and the breast decking and placed them into the boat casting. I will do the same when I get the decal supplies to see which looks the best. Incidentally, I did try to cut up a stern bench into planks, paint them, blacken the edges, then glue them back together onto a plywood backing, to see if I could pull it off at this scale. I couldn't. Perhaps, as my skills improve, I will be able to do that sometime in the future. Now to do the thwarts...
  7. Illustrated here is my scheme for getting the detail I want for the stern foot waling, the stern bench, and the breast decking. Scans of the plans from the instruction manual, and a photo of the boat are imported into Corel Draw and sized appropriately. Using drawing tools, the lines in the plans are duplicated (1), then transferred to the photo (2) for adjustments if needed. That done, I transfer the drawing onto a background colored to match MS Bulwarks Brown (3). This is printed out on brochure paper. The plan is to cut them out and glue them to 1/64" birch plywood. I have also ordered a decal making kit from Micromark. The designs would be printed out on the decal sheet, which would be applied to the plywood which has been painted with MS Bulwarks brown. Let's see which looks better.
  8. Work on the whale boats continues. Interior of the boat is painted. Unfortunately this process reveals a plethora of little anomalies and irregularities in the casting process which I have neither the tools nor the skills to smooth out. I have done some cleaning up with the metal castings, but resin is a different animal altogether. The exterior will be painted just before installation on the ship. Two of the boats will be white, and one green as is currently the case on Constitution.
  9. I thought that Bludjacket provided round shot in the kit. My kit included these. At any rate the are on sale from Bluejacket.
  10. Thanks so much, Jim, for your kind words. I left them out on the gun deck because I could not find space for them because of the knee details, and because of the manner in which I rigged the guns. Nor did I see space for them on the spar deck because of the pinrails, and, again, because of the gun rigging. I could not imagine fitting them under the pinrails, and still having room to belay the lines. Also, because I am a novice, I shied away from tackling that challenge. My hat is off to you if you pull that off. I saw Lawrence Arnot's model when I visited the Constitution museum. He glued them directly onto the deck. I am following your build with great interest to see how you deal with the unique challenges posed by this kit. I see you have completed the coppering. It is excellent!
  11. The boats provided by Bluejacket are resin castings. Details include inner bulwark molding, ribs, stemson, keelson, and sternson knee. As far as I know, Bluejacket is the only company that does this. It save a whole lot of time. The builder makes open waling, stern foot waling, breast foot waling, stern bench, and breast decking, thwarts and their knees, and rudder from scratch. The whale boat castings are different in that they have a raised flooring. This means that the thwarts, stern bench, and breast deck must be located closer to the top of the gunwales than is the case with the real boats. I do not see how I can include thwart knees. The boats provided in the kit originally were full of holes, presumably caused by bubbles. Bluejacket graciously agreed to replace them. I subsequently saw a notification on their website that it will be up to be builder to fill in holes with putty. The whaleboat castings are great, but the pinnace was severely misshapen upon arrival. I ran it under hot water and was able to bend it back to a reasonable shape. I decided to attempt completion of the interior details. The thickness of the inner components of the real boat is no more than an inch. 1/64" plywood is thinnest wood stock I know of which, at this scale translates to 1 1/2" so some of these elements are made of 67 lb card stock, printed in the right color by a laser printer, and sprayed with fixative. Such is the case for the open foot waling of the pinnace. To get the details of the stern and breast foot waling, the boat plans in the instructions, which are detailed, but not to scale, were imported into Corel Draw and sized to match the casting. Lines were drawn over the ones in the plans, then separated as a unit from the plans and superimposed over a rectangle filled with the appropriate color (to match MS bulwarks brown). These were then printed, sprayed, and cut out to get this result: Edges of these elements were painted bulwarks brown. The long open foot waling strakes are to be added after the rising is in place. 3/64" wide by .020" thick planking strips from Bluejacket are to be used to construct the rising. The plan is to install the thwarts just below the inner bulwarks molding, with the rising just underneath. In attempting this, a possible fatal flaw in the casting became evident. On the starboard side, the molding deviates up and down. It also joins the stemson at a different level than the port molding does. Oops! What to do? I have ordered another Pinnace from Bluejacket. If that does not work out, perhaps one of the lifeboat kits from MS might work. One of them is approximately the same size. Meanwhile, I might as well start work on the whaleboats. I soaked the above described planking strips in water then clamped them to be boat to get the curve. They were subsequently trimmed and glued in place.
  12. Beautiful work! Regarding the extra two strakes above the main caprail - they are no longer there on the actual ship. The top gallant caprails have been eliminated, and the waist opened up, just as it was in 1812.

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