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  1. I had company in, so I decided to temporarily attach the yards. The lower yards are pinned while the upper yards are stuck on with rubber cement. The mizzen t'gallant yard disappeared on me, so I will have to make up another. Anyhow, it makes an interesting preview.
  2. Lower shroud seizings done and lanyards finalized as in the topmast shrouds. Believe it or not, I have been working steadily since my last post. Lower shrouds are now ready for ratlines. Backstay lanyards are left long in case I need to adjust the tension when the upper fore and aft stays are installed.
  3. Just for the heck it, I thought I would try for a shot of the interior of the gun deck through one of the larboard gun ports with my phone. I could not resist posting the result even though it is out of sequence. Perhaps I can include it in my final series of shots of the model when it is finished.
  4. Seeing only the flaws, I had originally decided not to post a closeup of a set of ratlines, but now I have changed my mind. Next job is to finalize the lower shrouds. The procedure will be the same as for the topmast shrouds, so I will wait until they are all ready for ratlines before I post. This may take some time.
  5. Back in the saddle at last. I have just completed the topmast shroud ratlines. Progress has been slow, but steady. Futtock staves to be added when I finish ratlines on the lower shrouds. Might as well do them all at once. It looks like some of the mizzen shrouds merge into one, but they really don't.
  6. Heads up. The locations and measurements of the spar deck gunports for carronades shown on the elevation and on the deck plan do not match. Not realizing this, I went from one to the other as I was marking out the ports. As a result mine are in the wrong places. Also check to see if your hull is exactly symmetrical. If, like mine, it is not, the gunports on the starboard and port sides will not be opposite each other. That can wreak havoc when you install the spar deck beams. I recommend that you measure the distance between the stern and the stem on both sides to be sure they match if you have not done so already. I found I had to leave the hull asymmetrical, so as to avoid sanding through the starboard gunwales completely.
  7. I am using .012" (Syren) for what I have done so far on the bowsprit, but the .010" comports more accurately with the specifications as set forth in the instruction book.
  8. Nice smooth looking hull shape. Page 75 of the Marquardt AOS has cross section views which give a good idea as to how the frames are tapered. Also, looking at the bulkheads on the Connie by MS builds can give a clue as well.
  9. I have been working on the topmast ratlines. As with all phases of this build which require me to learn new skills, I began on the starboard side which will be facing the wall when the model is displayed. I am using the BJ .005" cotton line which they recently began offering. The line does not seem that stiff until you try to tie those very small knots. I find that I really need to tighten the knots a lot in order not to end up with oversize knots that you can see through. If I get it right, they do not look that bad and are not horribly out of scale. I am using cow hitches on the outermost shrouds because the ends point inward and do not stick out sideways. Unfortunately they do not hold as well, so I have been using Tacky Glue to fix them. I find that it does not leave as much of a shine as does CA. My biggest challenge has been to avoid the dreaded hourglass effect. To this end I have adopted the pattern on cardboard method which I have seen on many other builds. I have completed the starboard topmast ratlines. The first set was Hourglass City, and had various other imperfections. The next two came out progressively better. I would like to wait until I have completed at least two sets of ratlines on the port side before I post my finished ratlines. Unfortunately, I will need to spend a couple of months away from the model, while I work on two video jobs which require extensive work. I will of course continue to check out the magnificent builds I have seen on MSW.
  10. Looking really nice! The instructions give a choice of planking, netting or fabric for the bow heads, so your planking is not necessarily a departure. Kudos for the quarter galleries which integrate very nicely into the hull shape - very hard to do! I am gratified that my photos were of help. O am amazed that you have accomplished all this in 6 months. I began my build in 2007. As you can see, I am struggling with the rigging, so I will be interested to see what you do.
  11. Work is proceeding slowly but surely. I have been working on the topmast shrouds. 1. Throat seizings done. 2. Sheer pole installed with lashing. Sheer poles are .020" brass rods. Lashing is BJ .005" cottton line. They is hard to see, but they are there, honest. 3. Short ends of the shrouds cut to length and glued in place with just enough glue to hold them in place for seizing. 4. Newly acquired quad hands helps out with the seizings. 5. Seizings completed. BJ .005" cotton line was used for these. It took me a long time to do these, as each loop had to be seated in order to be neat. 6. Lanyards secured. I could not get diluted PVA to hold, so I used CA, which was applied to the inboard side of the seizings so that the shiny spots would not be as noticeable. BJ's use of metal fittings make using CA a necessity, as PVA has zero adhesion to metal. I used CA for rigging of the guns back in 2007, and they are still holding. I also used it in the rigging of the bowsprit which has taken an awful beating from my clumsy hands and has held up amazingly well. Incidentally, I have used PVA for all wood to wood, and rope to wood (pairs of shrouds at the mastheads) and am now using epoxy for installation of eyebolts, and other wood to metal joints where the glue can be concealed, and where strength is necessary. I also use PVA to stiffen ropes such as the burton pendants. Now to tackle the topmast shroud ratlines.
  12. I went to rigging-ropes.com to order rope. It turns out that they do not ship to the US. I discovered that when the US was not included in the list of countries they ship to during the checkout process.
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