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  1. Right. I remember that now. They make a really nice uninterrupted circle. They sent me something very similar to what you ended up with the last time I ordered ringbolts from them. They were etched brass ringbolts on a sprue.
  2. Thanks so much for the compliment. I did not use any rings on the carriages. I used 3/32" brass eyebolts to which I attached the blocks. I had to drill holes for these. If I had had access to the 1/32" eyebolts that I have now, I would have used those. My guns had breeching rings molded into them which had to be drilled out to receive the breeching rope. These breeching rings were very small, so I could not use as heavy a line for the breeching as I would have liked. I did install rings on the gun deck carriages. These were 1/8" steel rings. Unfortunately I lost the info about where to
  3. Fore and main futtock and bentink shrouds completed. Futtock shrouds attached to the deadeye strops by means of hooks made from 1/32" by 1/4" jackstay eyebolts from MS. As there are grooves around the bullseyes which makes for a more stable attachment to the bentink shroud, I decided to adapt them by reaming out the center more and filing down the front and back to make them resemble thimbles. I glued everything in place when I found that moving the mast did not affect them. However, I can replace these futtock shrouds fairly easily if I have to. Unseen at the mizzen mast are the mizzen fu
  4. The remainder of the deadeyes and lanyards turned in. Progress is slow because, as the rope must be glued to the bare metal in order to hold, painting must be done afterwards and before the reeving of the lanyards is done. This is an exacting task requiring precision to avoid getting paint on the rope. As I have never done this before, I do not know to what extent these shrouds will have to be retensioned after all the standing rigging is done, so I am postponing doing all the seizings and installing of the sheer poles until I have the answer to that. I will also be delaying doing the
  5. While working on turning in the deadeyes to the lower shrouds, I ran out of .012" light brown Syren rope. More rope was promptly shipped by Syren when I ordered it, but the mail was slow, so I got a head start in the rigging of the topmasts. When the rope arrived, I finished turning in the deadeyes for the foremast shrouds. I used three spots of CA gel to secure the deadeyes to the shrouds: one on either side of the deadeye, and one where the shroud crosses over above the deadeye. I did not use PVA for this because it does not stick to the Br
  6. To begin with, everything I say assumes that your kit is exactly like mine. The problem at the stern is that the elevation shows the upper counter of the stern fascia (the part in which the name of the ship appears) canting forward. If you were making a model of the stern as it appears in the plan, you would need two separate pieces: the upper counter, and the stern fascia which is above that. The red line represents the photo etched brass transom fascia provided in the kit. The upper counter portion of that does not cant forward. Therefore, if you cut out t
  7. Addendum to the above pontifications: The procedure I recommend for getting the correct stern shape is one which I have not actually tried to do. It was too late for that by the time I discovered that the photo etched stern fascia would not fit. It may be that modeling putty may also be necessary. I saw that Nic used liberal amounts of putty in this Red Jacket build to get the right stern shape. You can see that in his build. I also made mockups of the stern fascia and window section of the quarter gallery castings using Bristol board. I found these invaluable in steering my procedure t
  8. I recommend altering stern profile of the elevation (blueprint), then making the template from the altered blueprint. I must confess that I never have added any finish on the decking. It is completely natural. I tried some acrylic satin on it on the gun deck and did not like the result. My biggest weakness in my build is the lack of experience and expertise in finishing. I hope to improve on that in the future. I found the hull planking to be one of the easiest, most trouble free aspects of this build. I used BJ's 3/32" by .020" basswood planking for the bulk of t
  9. Thanks Avi and JSGerson, for your kind words. Answering Avi's question about the first step, I recommend altering the design of the stern in the elevation as indicated in my diagram, and cutting out the template accordingly in order to avoid the problem. I did not realize the problem until after I had cut out the profile. I cut a chunk out of the stern and put in a block of wood that you can see in one of the early photos. I substituted glued up decking from BJ for the scribed decking. I recommend it if you are going to leave it natural as I did. If you intend to paint or use a dark sta
  10. The snaking which runs between the forestays and mainstays has been quite a struggle. Fortunately, I decided to rig some lines off model on which to practice. I had some ideas on how to do it all of which yielded disastrous results. Then I saw Xken's solution and the superb result he got. I adopted his method with one added step. I found I needed to further stiffen the line, so I used CA to do that as you will see in this post. 1. The design drawn out on card stock which has been taped to a piece of foamcore. This has to be absolutely precise. I found that if
  11. Hello Reborn, Sorry to take so long to respond to your post. This site no longer notifies me by email when somebody posts to my log, and I just did not see the added page for some reason. Anyway, I am about to post my work on the snaking which should answer your question. I did glue my masts in because the play was driving me nuts. Unfortunately the slight corkscrewing of the precarved hull which I did not see until far too late, mislead me as to how to align the foremast which leans slightly to port because that is what the stem does. The sternpost leans slightly to starboard. I dr
  12. HI Ron, I was very sorry to hear about Charlie. I had not had occasion to interact with him, but I have seen pics of his work on one of his Connie builds. I did not know that he worked on the Arnot build that is in the Constitution Museum. I saw that model when I was there to visit Constitution. It looks like the same one you see in the photos in the instructions. Thank you for your kind words and encouragement. I am proceeding with rigging which is going very slowly owing to my total lack of experience. Right now I am grappling with the snaking, having made several unsuccessful at
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