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  1. Looking really nice! The instructions give a choice of planking, netting or fabric for the bow heads, so your planking is not necessarily a departure. Kudos for the quarter galleries which integrate very nicely into the hull shape - very hard to do! I am gratified that my photos were of help. O am amazed that you have accomplished all this in 6 months. I began my build in 2007. As you can see, I am struggling with the rigging, so I will be interested to see what you do.
  2. Work is proceeding slowly but surely. I have been working on the topmast shrouds. 1. Throat seizings done. 2. Sheer pole installed with lashing. Sheer poles are .020" brass rods. Lashing is BJ .005" cottton line. They is hard to see, but they are there, honest. 3. Short ends of the shrouds cut to length and glued in place with just enough glue to hold them in place for seizing. 4. Newly acquired quad hands helps out with the seizings. 5. Seizings completed. BJ .005" cotton line was used for these. It took me a long time
  3. I went to rigging-ropes.com to order rope. It turns out that they do not ship to the US. I discovered that when the US was not included in the list of countries they ship to during the checkout process.
  4. The best models are the ones that look pristine and clean no matter how close the camera gets. Yours is one of those. Congrats!
  5. Standing rigging lines for the topmasts in place. I have a background for photos on order, so future pics will look a lot better. As I bend the masts this way and that, I do not see the topmast shrouds slacken, so I think I will do the seizings, sheer poles, and ratlines on these before rigging the t'gallant masts and skypoles. Closeup shots to follow when this is done. Now that the topmasts are in place, just drooping garment bags over the model to keep dust out is no longer sufficient. I partially assembled the case which I bought way back when I first bought t
  6. If you go to the home page and enter "Bluejacket Constitution" in the search field, all the Bluejacket Constitution build logs should come up. Unfortunately, I did all that years before I even knew about MSW, so I am not all that specific on exactly how I did it. As I recall, I was stumbling along in the dark and hoping for the best, not having had any prior experience. I do recall making mockups of the transom fascia, and the the upper finishes and window pieces for the quarter galleries out of Bristol board and experimenting with them before attempting to actually assemble the stern. Tha
  7. I am following your progress with considerable interest. In looking at the various builds of the BJ Constituion, I am fascinated by the resourcefulness, inventiveness and creativity I see in the solutions to this thorny problem. It looks like there are as many solutions as there are builds. All the best. Kurt
  8. Right. I remember that now. They make a really nice uninterrupted circle. They sent me something very similar to what you ended up with the last time I ordered ringbolts from them. They were etched brass ringbolts on a sprue.
  9. Thanks so much for the compliment. I did not use any rings on the carriages. I used 3/32" brass eyebolts to which I attached the blocks. I had to drill holes for these. If I had had access to the 1/32" eyebolts that I have now, I would have used those. My guns had breeching rings molded into them which had to be drilled out to receive the breeching rope. These breeching rings were very small, so I could not use as heavy a line for the breeching as I would have liked. I did install rings on the gun deck carriages. These were 1/8" steel rings. Unfortunately I lost the info about where to
  10. Fore and main futtock and bentink shrouds completed. Futtock shrouds attached to the deadeye strops by means of hooks made from 1/32" by 1/4" jackstay eyebolts from MS. As there are grooves around the bullseyes which makes for a more stable attachment to the bentink shroud, I decided to adapt them by reaming out the center more and filing down the front and back to make them resemble thimbles. I glued everything in place when I found that moving the mast did not affect them. However, I can replace these futtock shrouds fairly easily if I have to. Unseen at the mizzen mast are the mizzen fu
  11. The remainder of the deadeyes and lanyards turned in. Progress is slow because, as the rope must be glued to the bare metal in order to hold, painting must be done afterwards and before the reeving of the lanyards is done. This is an exacting task requiring precision to avoid getting paint on the rope. As I have never done this before, I do not know to what extent these shrouds will have to be retensioned after all the standing rigging is done, so I am postponing doing all the seizings and installing of the sheer poles until I have the answer to that. I will also be delaying doing the
  12. While working on turning in the deadeyes to the lower shrouds, I ran out of .012" light brown Syren rope. More rope was promptly shipped by Syren when I ordered it, but the mail was slow, so I got a head start in the rigging of the topmasts. When the rope arrived, I finished turning in the deadeyes for the foremast shrouds. I used three spots of CA gel to secure the deadeyes to the shrouds: one on either side of the deadeye, and one where the shroud crosses over above the deadeye. I did not use PVA for this because it does not stick to the Br
  13. To begin with, everything I say assumes that your kit is exactly like mine. The problem at the stern is that the elevation shows the upper counter of the stern fascia (the part in which the name of the ship appears) canting forward. If you were making a model of the stern as it appears in the plan, you would need two separate pieces: the upper counter, and the stern fascia which is above that. The red line represents the photo etched brass transom fascia provided in the kit. The upper counter portion of that does not cant forward. Therefore, if you cut out t
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