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KHauptfuehrer

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  1. Excellent work. I saw a full replica of that vessel tied up at the marina in Poughkeepsie some years back.
  2. I just went back to Bluejacket and found that they offer, .005" (I said .003", but that was wrong) cotton line in natural in addition to black and white. I don't know whether they have recently added the natural line, or if I just failed to see it before. At any rate, I have ordered a spool to see how much that color differs from the Syren light tan line. I find it surprising how different the .008"and the .005" size lines look considering how close the numbers are. I would like to try treating the white line with diluted Titebond carpenter's glue to see what color I get (off model, of course). It would be great if fixing seizings with Titebond instead of Elmer's would make the colors match. We'll see.
  3. Thanks, Tom, for your interest and your suggestion. Actually, I was hoping to avoid coloring the line if possible, hence my ordering of line from Syren rather than using the line provided by Bluejacket. However, if .003 tan linen thread is not available, say from Joanne's, I may have to color the Bluejacket's white line, or just use the more bulky .008" line from Syren. When you color the line with shoe polish, do you dip it, rub it on, etc.? Is there a specific color or brand that you use? Is it easy to get a consistent color throughout the full length of the line?
  4. I am back at again. I am following the procedure of rigging from fore to aft and from low to high. Progress has been slow, because I am learning as I go. Much time has been spent staring at the model and thinking "Now how do I do this?". Bluejacket does not provide a fairlead for the bowsprit, so I made my own, modeling it on the current one. I did not fully realize at the time that in doing so, I would also be committing to rigging the bowsprit and jib booms using the current configuration. I suppose if I had seen the following drawing at that time, I might have taken a different course. At any rate, I have attached the bobstays, bowsprit shrouds, and the jib boom and flying jib boom martingale guys to the bowsprit assembly, and temporarily rove these through eye pins at the hull to get some idea of what they will look like when permanently attached and tensioned. I was hoping not to use the big eyepins, as they are clearly out of scale, but I found that the heavy line I chose for the bobstays would not pass through the eye of the smaller ones. These will be blackened. Bluejacket has recently began offering rigging line which is .005" (#1667)in black and white. I highly recommend this line. It is easy to work with, is not frizzy or fuzzy, and generally makes setting up seizings which are not bulky or out of scale possible. Unfortunately it is offered in only in black and white and not tan, so I cannot use it for running rigging. The bulk of the standing rigging will be done using Syren line. It looks like rope, is not frizzy and is easy to work with - another winner from Chuck Passaro. As you can see, it is dark brown rather than black, so the colors do not match. However, I do not find the difference particularly jarring. The heavier line from Bluejacket has a smooth "served" look which, in my opinion, makes it suitable for things like collars, slings, and trusses. As you can see, I have removed the bowhead coverings so that I can access the bowsprit for gammoning installation. The seats of ease are also temporarily glued in with rubber cement and will also be removed for gammoning. When installing the stem knee, I extended the gammoning slot a lot to give me flexibility in its location. Hopefully, I did not do anything when installing the grating which will be a serious obstacle.
  5. I have a video job coming up the post work of which will keep me busy for a while. Connie will be in ordinary for the next month or so.
  6. Foretack boomkins completed. I had intended to omit these, as the instructions do not show them. Then I found a scale drawing of them in the Marquardt, so I decided to give it a try. Boomkins to be glued in after all fittings have been installed on the bowsprit and jib booms, the bowsprit has been installed on the model,and the gammoning has been completed. This concludes the major woodworking on the model, and so, is a major milestone for me. Now to begin the rigging.
  7. I just finished making up the yards. Fittings to be installed after standing rigging has been completed and before crossing the yards and doing the running rigging. I wish these yards were more photogenic, but when I hold them in my hand and look at them, I am fairly pleased with how they came out considering I have never done this before. There are cleats on the main topsail yard. I just neglected to set up the yard to show them when I took the pic. I found a design in the Marquardt for the foretack boomkins, so I think, before I start the rigging, I will have a go at it.
  8. Thanks David for your suggestion and kind words. I will definitely give the plumbers tape a try. I imagine that any hardware store would have it. Regards, Kurt
  9. Work continues on the yards. Here is a photo of the spritsail yard before painting, so that what I did with the fairleads can be seen more clearly. Hopefully this will work. They are a bit out of scale, but no more so than the ones on the Revell model. I could not figure out how to set the strop around the thimbles (1/16" bullseyes from BJ with the centers reamed out) then pass it around the yard keeping the two perpendicular to each other without adding to the height too much, so the strop is of wire (steel annealed 34 gauge, .010" from BJ #902), and is in two pieces, one that goes around the thimble and into a hole drilled in the yard, and the other that goes around the yard. I anointed the strop/thimble assemblies with liquid CA, so hopefully, the thimbles will not pop out of their strops during rigging. Whether this was genius or folly remains to be seen.
  10. Thanks Nic! That looks great, very convincing. My Bounty paper towels have all kinds of weave detail embossed on them, so I cannot use that to simulate the smooth look of leather. The brown paper towels that I have seen in public restrooms would work, I think. What brand of paper towel did you use?
  11. I found an alternative to the ribs/trucks parrel in the Marquardt that just might solve my dilemma. A leather clad truss parrel (13). I wonder if 1mm shrink tubing from Micro Mark would work. Might be worth a try. Meanwhile, work continues on the yards.
  12. Thanks Jon for the drawings! I do have a bit of time to decide on this while I finish making the yards and do the standing rigging. One of my criteria for deciding how much detail to put into a model is "Can I keep the detail in scale?". Thanks Bill for you kind words. They are much appreciated!

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