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Seamanpeter

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Everything posted by Seamanpeter

  1. yeah George, seeing your electronic parts there is indeed not much space left. I did some measurements and on the back of the built in mine and must say if you divided the front part (under the superstructure) in 2 decks you have above the batteries space for other equipment such as speed controllers / voltage regulators and others. Waterpomp for FIFI will come below the "deck" you have the el motor stb side for the propulsion. Otherside / opposite side on ps I will make there the foundation for the "buckler crane connected to the bottom to have it secured and then penetration
  2. Dear Jo, sorry to read you went for X-ray too. Hope for you it is not something serious as could be anything from infection to kidney stones that are walking around as that also feels like pain in your back. Anyway, wish you a quick recovery and take care about yourself there, Peter xxxxxxxxxxx
  3. George, hi there. Looking into your built (and also mine) I start making in the superstructure port side near the lower entrance door the Emergency Generator parts such as ventilator openings, doors, exhaust etc. Looking at yours I cannot find that detail so I presume you did not come to it? Also the kim keel, are you not making that? I can tell you seeing other same builds that don't have it mounted she is quickly rolling on her side when little bit of waves are coming and I know in practises those are a must special on ships this kind that should not roll that much havi
  4. Thanks Danny and appreciate your help in here. Good job we are not all animals but sometimes specially if you don't know your way around here like me, mistakes can easily be made. Anyway thanks for your help. Have a last question, how to be member of this Society and having a number too? If that has to do with paying a contribution fine with me but have no idea where to go. Waiting yours and have a great day Peter
  5. Dan, sorry to come with a question but if I'm looking into the index of RC buildings / boats I can see 2 x Fairmount Alpine from George and another who most likely is deleted by the system as cannot find him anymore if you click on it. Now I'm building this Fairmount Alpine since March this year but can't find my built in your list! Do I have to go somewhere else to find it or is it not updated your list? Also I made previous a mistake to open another page here what was wrong my side but to delete it I cannot. Maybe you could have a look into that as I have 1 since start an
  6. dear Jo, yes moved all here as it is more convenient anyway to have all in 1 page so to speak. Looking t your new project the old Danish fishing boat looks great to me and must say for an (even) tiny el motor connected to the prop there is no space unless you want to change the stern. Theoretical it can be done but is an not easy job. Anyway, looking forward your progress in this one and wish you the patient to make it! Good luck with your new project and will follow your works Peter xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  7. Right, found out what is missing here as was in the other blog I made. So to come to the point now waiting for the weather to be more nice guess this will not happen before next year. Therefore waiting for the orders I made and what I can do from inside the house I will make it. Not going that fast either as have to find time between other arrangements having here such as school (UNI) and work. Will do my best but if not regularly don't be afraid I'm doing nothing and stopped but just did not have time for it. I did make some enquiries with ref to the Schottels and got
  8. No idea for the name but can see you did a proper job! Respect my lady and I mean it! I cannot tell you the names for them as actually never sailed on a SAIL boat and those matters never interested me to know this name. Could be that somebody here will tell you, sorry about that. Peter xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  9. George, in my previous built the last one I made many, many years ago was the Smit Rotterdam with the first wooden hull (others where plastic) and that time we could not buy the automatic bilge pumps as I mention to you in my mail. As I did observe water was coming inside the prop shafts due to NOT having the so called black pot (grease pot) on those shafts I built inside just a water pump (did not have the proper ones as now available) with a suction laying/glued to the bottom of this compartment as in the frames there are NO MOUSE HOLES as we call them for the water to pass to the lowes
  10. To all, for the latest developments pls go to: https://modelshipworld.com/profile/32387-seamanpeter/?status=1004&type=status. As it looks like my other page for this built is partly closed as after the works done to the server some mails cannot be found anymore. Tomorrow or in the weekend will sort this out and bring all here so have it in one space / blog what ever you call it. Best regards, Peter.
  11. Great job George, must take my head off for you with all the troubles you did have. Hope the water pump inlet will not give you future problems otherwise you have to built in a "bilge alarm" that connect to your pump take out the water. https://www.jonesboatchandlery.co.uk/bilge-pumps/ Here you can find several bilge pumps that switch automatically on when water comes into the built. Depends on how much money you want to invest for it as several prices in this range. The only disadvantage here is that those pumps CANNOT RUN DRY and therefore it is a must to have a "aut
  12. Having worked on several company sister vessels they had a colour scheme from that company and TSI when coming on board was looking after it. But George, here also white stairs all the way up the superstructure, some have next to the superstructure orange so also here "who cares"? Now they will be painted next dd in the colours of BosKalis so all will be changed and I can tell you that B&K will take care that the colour scheme is as it suppose to be knowing them! That's why I send you those 4 pics of the ex fleet of Fairmount so you can make up your mind (or mix it up).
  13. Wow, looks good George. The bow trust you could have filled up the whole surroundings from the old channels having the new channels (grey plastic) in place. Just to make sure that all is watertight as for sure you never take out again those channels. But a water test in the bath will do before you launch your built into the lake. The ladders on the Fairmount tugs are Orange or White, haven't seen them green on the side not even the ones below the accommodation. But as I said before it is your built and you make it the way you want. My mobile also is still working
  14. Looking through your blog again found an interesting detail. Not only we are building the same tug but apparently we also have the same protector for our mobile phone. I was just smiling in myself if that was true. Talk to you later Peter
  15. George, thx for the quick respond. Well as I already mentioned, the railings for ferry boats and passenger ships are higher that is true but on working vessels this 11 mm high is about the size. And yes the top one is thicker then the below ones and that is for a reason. First for your hands, second the sailors on board are sometimes using it too for hanging the ladder, btsmplank /chair for painting outside (hull) and other useful stuff. The other reason is how stupid it may sound for SAFETY to give enough strength in the event a person fall against it. So coming back to yo
  16. George, great job done to the stern trust! Also the railings is a hell of a job and that's why I changed that to fixed ones. What you say about : Quote: Also the height of these is only 12mm, which in the scale of the model, 1:75, gives the height of 900mm, or 90cm, which for a ship safety feature preventing falling overboard seems to me, to be just a bit low. Also the three holes on there stanchions were all 0.8mm bore, which is again too big for two reasons. Firstly, the rail wire supplied is only 0.5mm, and second, the 0.8mm diameter gives in scale a diameter of 60mm, which i
  17. Lucky you George and can now understand the meaning of it (if it goes, use some butter to slide in) Sure if you can have the "new" channels direct connected to the trust both side, the gab you talking about can be filled up with epoxy, made it secure and watertight in the same time. Those channels don't need to be replaced as you can just remove the el motor with the 4 screws (don't forget the seal). Afterwards the plastic channels on the outer side can be easily made in shape of the water flow you already have. Well lot of work and hopefully this is just a 1 time go!
  18. George, lot's of work. Now I'm wondering how you will fix the bow trust with the both side channels as the "old" channels from previous are still in there. You could have done that by cutting the both timer /wood protection so you have an open connection to lift them out? The channels connected to the mid part of the trust are tapered / conics so will that not be used as you did not remove the old ones? Want to see how you are managing this without taking the securing position of the channels direct next to the actual bow trust. On my photo as attached here you see tha
  19. Wow, looks colourful too George! Nearly need sun glasses to see it. FYG, these days they all have 2 x ESDIC on the front panels so on stb side of the console better paint another one (if you find the space). Unless you keep it with 1 Esdic but then you are committed to have all PAPER sea-charts on board. Those are the rules these days. Yeah I already made a plan what I had in my head on paper where what comes / colour / cables / etc. and that is just the lighting, foremast, helideck, Monkey Island, Aft mast, bridge, accommodation, deck lights aft, and more inside the towin
  20. Looks great George, the leds doing fine too. The difficult as you say is to have them all proper lined up and connected. I will use a converter separate for the lighting as want the helideck also "illuminated" what will be a challange to have it done but got some ideas in my head to achieve that. As for now I do the same nearly as you means just doing the inside, make it ready for the lighting, making floors for the towing winch and the rest of the electronic units such as receiver etc. To be honest with you I don't have the "normal" propulsion and rudders so get away with
  21. George, the towing winch I ordered is not that big anyhow and the el motor is BUILT INSIDE the drum what saves you a lot of space. Ok it comes from USA but hopefully it is here before X-mas this year. I know there is not much space left inside the built, therefore I want to have the recievers, volt convertors inside the accomodation and the rest below such as batteries and el motors all under decks. I want to have long belts so the 2 el motors (vertical positioned) for each Schottel propulsion mounted as far possible in each side in way off I positioned the number 3 ps / stb sid
  22. Right, thanks for this info George, I know this firm in Germany and you right, they are a bit at the top level if you look at their prices. Never the less, they do have nice stuff what can be used for a resonable price too. For the weight of the built most likely because I built additional wood in her and checked until now on the scale is ca 11 kg but without all equipment such as Schottels, batteries and other stuff. I gues together with all I will come to ca 15-16 kg but as seen other builts same size they are still to my knowledge a bit high on the water so I'm not really afr
  23. George, not bad at all, sorry you have to change the trust front and back. Must say that if have to do in mine I will have more problems then yours as mine is secured in massive wood parts. Thanks for the advice given in your answer to me and will sort that out on both sides. The general arrangements can be downloaded from the web site of the owner Bos & Kalis. I will give you the website here. https://boskalis.com/about-us/fleet-and-equipment/offshore-vessels/oceangoing-and-anchor-handling-tugs.html There you see all the tugs from them and it helps when building
  24. Well, all them that did came into Australia somewhere there roots are going back to UK or Ireland or another country in Europe. Trus you keep having those words that are not mentioned in any dictionary saying them and if the other person you'r talking to comes from somewhere else yeah they will look funny at you thinking (maybe) what the hell is he/she talking about! This way we all learn from each other as if going to the USA where as they suppose to speak English forget it as most words are "translated" to Yank language! Believe me as the first time I came to the UK as a teen
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