iMustBeCrazy
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Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy
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Thankyou both, that looks like it's going to be an interesting read. In just the first paragraph of chapter 1 we have for the stem "determine the shape of the stem; and find the centre (E), that shall sweep the lower part, at pleasure". So no rule there. And "And draw the line CF for the aft part of the stern-post, to what rake you please" So no rule there either. I believe this is plate 1. -
Paviljoensjacht 1733 | Blender
iMustBeCrazy replied to Robska's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
This might help, ca 1791
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A quick look through the photos shows oil lamps in most cabins, sometimes candles, and in the galley. Electric lights in the met station, carbide main lights in the "Ritz" with perhaps a portable electric light as well.
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And in one of those quirks, in 1938 HMS Bramble (Vigilant class 1822) (by then serving as a lightship) lets say an Aunt of Speedy was modified into a replica of HMAT Supply. Wiki.
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No I can't. ZAZ7239 is certainly not typical but some variation is common. On ZAZ7349 (yours) I wouldn't be surprised if the station spacing was 1' 2 1/4" around the midship area and 1' 2 1/2" at the bow and stern, but total apparent randomness 😲 But with ZAZ7239 as none of the lines is where the numbers say they should be, I suspect the draftsman put the numbers on a rough sketch as a less confusing reference prior to doing the real drawing. That might suggest that the table of offsets was calculated first but might have been 'corrected' as the drawing proceeded. At this stage I'm just guessing.
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Yes, the drawing is just a pretty picture ( the shipwright would have built from the table of offsets which I haven't seen for a boat). On the drawing inaccurate setting of a compass would be very easy leading to incorrect arcs, a ruler not quite square, a pencil not sharp enough, heck, a cheap ruler v an expensive ruler. All these and more would lead to errors in the drawing. Yes, there must have been rules (or perhaps more like guidelines ). For masts we have formulae such as "Main-mast twice and a 1/4 the breadth of the boat" etc, there must have been others for, say, the thickness of timbers or the breadth of thwarts or .....
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You might like to look at ZAZ7239, it gives some insight including dimensions down to the quarter inch and varying gaps between stations.
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Thankyou.
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No problem. The model shipways kit was my first build, it was a good introduction but isn't quite the bounty launch. Cornwall's Maritime Museum replica is also close but not quite (there are more photos on their facebook page, there's a link in the Bounty Boats Facts (below)). All kits (hell, all builds) have compromises be they base on cost or skill level. Anyway, have a read of the Launch, 16' cutter and facts threads linked below.
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Alfredo, I'm sorry I missed your previous post, I might have saved you some trouble. On a Launch the garboard plank does not follow the keel at the stern, it goes down to the transom instead. Occre does show this in step 10. Occre later cover the 'deadwood' in planking.
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No clear answer here either. Where they may have been carried is a little easier, on deck along the rail (either side) or over the main hatch or dangling from stern davits or dangling over the side or towed astern. ZAZ6347 shows vague outlines of two boats on Vigilant (1821). THIS painting shows at least one boat on Vigilants deck. And THIS painting shows Vigilant with a boat dangling over the side. Missed one, 1783: Cutters employed against smugglers to have 20ft boat instead of 18ft boat for the duration of the peace. Given 200 Ton cutters should have a 22ft gig on a 75ft deck I would expect that Cheerful with a 63ft deck may have had an 18ft boat if they were lucky. Todd, I suggest you cut out some paper boat outlines and see what fits.
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No, and I doubt my grandfather used it more that once. Town wasn't that far away and he had a model T truck. When the farm track was flooded he tied ropes to the corners and had the kids try to keep him out of the ruts Life was different then.
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If I have to... Your little toy seems to do a nice job but perhaps you need something more man sized like my grandfathers rope maker. The little guy in the pic will eventually become a crew member for my Bounty launch.
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Well,it sounds like it hasn't affected your brain anyway. 😁 Likewise.
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Sorry, it's just a simple way of showing if the frames are square to the keel. Using this method, because of the distortion caused by the camera lens, 8 and 9 can only be checked where they meet the keel whereas 10 is close enough to being square to the camera to be checked for it's full height. The second photo is more obvious, the green lines all slope down from left to right but the purple line slopes down from right to left, clearly different. The distortion is why we can't be certain what is and isn't square from your photos, we can give opinions but you will have to check yourself. If you don't have a carpenters square to check with (or yours is too big), these days lots of paper has very square corners. Photocopy paper, business cards, appointment reminders from your doctor or dentist etc. Probably even birthday or greeting cards.
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From the photos it looks like part Nos 2 and 10 are not square fore and aft and 10 is also not square port/starboard. The rest I can't tell from the photos, you will have to check them. The keel needs to be fixed, 10 needs to be fixed, 2 should be fixed. All frames appear to be in the right positions. Fairing should fix any minor out of square issues.
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Well, yours looks great! The drawings for Lapwing (Danish drawing) 1816 and Basilisk (1822) show no whelps (that doesn't mean they didn't have them) and others in the family possibly show octagonal windlasses. Cutter models at the RMG that show whelps have anchor chains. So all that means that since we don't have any specific information about "Speedy", you don't have to fit whelps but you can if you want to.
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I think it's fine, it looks like the pointy bit is a metal cap with flanges for the wires. Overall I think your model looks a little too good, better than the original.
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And Make your own, the skills needed for model making and tool making are the same. See posts 261 through 271 in Tims 'Speedy' thread https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34769-hm-cutter-speedy-1828-by-oakheart-from-plans-drawn-by-bill-shoulders-in-1972/page/9/ You can make yours longer so you can set a stop for longer deck planks. For getting things square, the corners (and sides) of (factory cut) MDF sheets are square and the sides are straight ( you might be able to get some scraps from a cabinet maker) as are the corners of copy paper, both can be used as squares. By gluing sandpaper to the (factory cut) side of a piece of MDF you can sand things to 90°
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I suspect all the wires came off a roll of bicycle spoke wire, the hoops were essentially wooden bicycle rims and the tubing was bicycle frame tubing either flattened at the ends or rolled into an oval for streamlining.
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Another enlargement: Santos_Dumont_N-18g.zip It looks like the front foil (and I think the back) had suspension:
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This enlargement might help. SD 18-cleargc.zip
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It looks like they end at a small disk.
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I'm extremely organised (HAH, heehee, hah heehee, mmmph. giggle, giggle) mine are carefully filed dumped in a folder labelled 'Endurance'. No problem, luckily I like puzzles.
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