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Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy
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It is indeed. Dan, here's a few more clues: https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/roemerschiff-victoria/ https://roemerschiffe.de/victoria/ Looking at the last shot I see the midships moulds look to be arcs and the other moulds use the same arc rotated. Taking the above and adding it to This: Gives: Certainly not 100% right but perhaps 90%? It doesn't include the bow or stern either.
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I suspect that the verticals were indeed vertical and that the horizontals followed the curve of the deck (but were actually straight lines themselves) except perhaps at the head. This would make the panels parallelograms (except the outside ones and perhaps the middle ones). The five columns (blue) were probably proud of the 'wall'. But there's also a good chance I'm wrong. The standard answer is 'make a jig', it may take twice as long but it will give better results.
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Brain fade. 2' tall in the middle, 4' x 4' square, 2 windows each side, hinged centre panel in the roof either side. Azimuth compass a couple of feet forward of it (not shown in this pic), binnacle forward of that.
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A tiny update representing a lot of head bashing. The inner pair of counter timbers: I had to remove 'deck beam' 18 to get them in, all six will be attached to it before being installed as an assembly. I thought I had the outer counter timbers worked out (several times) but I think I'll have to give up and do them in multiple pieces like Chuck did Cheerful.
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I think this is all I've got. The photo seems to confirm the sketch in that it shows the top glass is very steep (behind the guy's legs on the right).
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Greg, A few more thoughts, No glue, just press fit. Or at worst a tiny dab of PVA on exposed surfaces that can be chiselled off later. 1/4" dowel stepping down at the ends. Perhaps in segments with couplers, slide the coupler along and the dowel is 'cut'. You could cut the disks with side cutters/wire cutters to remove them. Some thin C.A. into the end grains before boring should give a smoother hole.
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Yes and yes. I used 9mm mdf plus a piece of 3mm. Base is 100x50 big enough to be useful small enough to be handy. The top bits are 25x40 with the right one notched to allow clamping a stop. Everything is just glued in place. Make sure the corners where they meet the saw are square. Glue the left block first and allow the dry then use a straight edge (ruler) and scribe the cut line. Glue the right block using the saw as a spacer and a straight edge to align the blocks, let dry. Glue the 3mm guide and let dry. Cut the guide slot in the 3mm piece. Done. The only things that matter are the squareness of the slots (two sides/corners of each block and the guide) and the alignment of the two blocks. You could do the guide in two pieces using the straight edge to align the left side and the saw the right.
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Tim, I use a cutting guide (one sided mitre box) and a razor saw for the cross cut then mostly a chisel blade and a file to remove and clean up the rest. Instead of the chisel blade you could also use the razor saw lying on a spacer. I really should remake the cutting guide with the guide piece twice as deep and twice as high (it's currently 12mm deep and 6mm high).
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Sorry about the delays. Basically I test fitted a wale and found that a straight plank just wouldn't work, I finally figured that the finer bow messed things up (compared to Cheerful) and that a curve was needed forward. I did that and it fits nicely but I guess the rest of the planking will need similar. I also marked the wales on the drawings but when I made two new moulds the wale didn't quite line up with the marks, probably something to do with the fairing but the stem midships and transom are all good with the wale just laying without any coercion. More on the wale when I get around to planking. Now, Tim is building Speedy, a descendant of Lapwing and has distracted me (see the discussion in his log) so I've started building mine: Just the coaming and doors for the moment, I forgot the obligatory 1 cent coin but the doors are about 15mm high and awaiting the glue to dry before sanding.
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You should be, and I'm sure you will find it indispensable. Meanwhile there's this Vigilant drawing which shows that the companionway may well have sat on the coaming. But after playing around and cutting some wood I've nearly decided the companionway was actually a solid block of wood with the doors (badly) painted on
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