iMustBeCrazy

That I think might be a problem with things like the false deck, but I'll think about it.

I've been contemplating doing the centre section in real frames. While doing said contemplation I realised I've been over thinking the 'as built' transom. It will be far easier now.

Thanks Tim. To finish off this transom a strip the thickness of the planking is glued to the edge of the transom. When both sides are done a second MDF transom the same size as the first will be glued inside the first creating a step (or rabbet) so that the plank ends will but against the trim as in this mock-up.

First, a couple of shots that I left out the other day. The rabbet. And tapering the spine, from zero at the bearding line to just under the thickness of the planking at the rabbets (keel and stern post). Yesterday my band saw died (it was only an Aldi cheapie). Luckily I had planned for that and had a spare (same but cheaper, bought on sale) but I still had a lot of setting up to do. The build restarted with the transom/s. I will be building two, as built and easier. Easier first: 1st I cut out 2 3mm MDF transoms. Like the one on the right, the other bits covered by paper are the trims for both methods. Next I made a 'raft' from 6.6mm x 1mm Huon Pine. Glued (rubber cement) on the template and cut it out. Glued the 'raft' and some trim I made earlier to one MDF transom. Cleaned it up a bit (look at that grain, perfect size). Ant took a gratuitous photo of the model. It's not finished yet, more to come. I've also done more work on the drawings, coming soon.

Thanks Tim. Speedy is looking nicer every day.

a thousand words, I wonder who first said that.

Just one of those learning things. With photos of curved surfaces it isn't easy to tell so it was just a caution. basically, the sill is the same distance above and parallel to the deck, the head is the same and the jams (sides) are perpendicular to the keel. This does often give trapezoidal ports. Do some tests and on the model, start lighter. You can darken it with another coat if needed.

Well, it's been a long road getting here but I've laid the keel so to speak. My Great Grandfather sailed as crew to Adelaide Australia aboard Lapwing in 1850, hence the interest. I've been attempting to create drawings of her for some time https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23486-lapwing-1816-revenue-cutter/ and have reached the point where cutting wood helps me with the drawings and vice versa. So it's time for this log. I will attach a PDF of the drawings here and replace the attachment with newer versions as I go along. Lapwing Drawings V1.0.pdf Drawings, Version 1.0 incomplete but should make a hull minus the stern and counter. Please let me know of any issues. First issue, moulds 2 and 4 have the labels swapped, 2 should be 4 and 4 should be 2. Second issue, transom needs to be reworked Meanwhile: In the title I said 'PoB (mostly)', eventually there will probably be a PoF version and sometimes I will try that out in this build. I will also try a more simplified when I do something more complicated than needed for PoB. Such as the keel. I certainly overcomplicated the keel for this build, several pieces scarphed together, milled rabbet and a keelson that gets mostly cut away. There are easier ways, delete the keelson and add it to the spine (the drawings now show this) or cut the rabbet out from the keel completely and add it to the spine. Both of these methods require some bevelling on the spine. I will add drawings later. I could have sworn I took more photos of the keel construction but......... Cutting wood: Note: The 'False Keel' is now referred to as the Spine. And test fitting. End of first instalment. Thanks for visiting.

Probably too late but the sides of the ports are perpendicular to the keel and the top and bottom are parallel to the deck.

I think the transom/s done, starting to look good. Counter and counter timbers next.

Yes. Yes. It can. To minimise this you can change the shade of black, change the colour to make it look intensional, put a border to make it look like a sign. Lots of options. Check with the decal manufacturer.

You can do it in graphics software (Paint would do). Create the text you want. Then invert the colours. You can change the background colour to suit and trim to the size you need. Print to the white decal paper.

Nope. Maybe? Closer anyway. Please, somebody give me an adz and a lump of wood.

Found one. And the channel should follow the deck and or wale. That is, lower forward.

Lets just say the chainplate is metal, it can be a flat bar, a few flat bars, a chain, a really long chain link or a combination.

There will be exceptions! The channel is often notched for the chain plates and then a cover strip goes on the outside. This gives a fairly clear example:

Looks fine to me but the straps will all be pointing to a spot up the mast about 54 feet above the deck. The Lapwing drawings are possibly wrong here except there were probably no clearly defined wales (other than by a coat of paint) just a thickening of the planking. (My Lapwing will have wales despite this). Add in that Speedy was built 10 years after Lapwing and some changes are certainly possible. This is one of the Vigilant class (enlarged Lapwings with 2 extra guns) showing the shrouds moved.

While that's true of the kit you built I've taken the dimensions from the Lapwing drawings on which Speedy was based. Speedy may have been different but I've not found any contemporary drawings to show it.

I've had a little play myself. Note that the scaling of your model is pretty rough. The forward three shrouds between the ports and the aft one moved a little further aft should work.

Me neither. Try on some scrap, a coat of WOP then a coat of lightly tinted WOP. I think it should come out nice and even.

Perhaps some very very light stains to provide some contrast? I'm looking at using Tassie Oak (our generic hardwood, actually more of an Ash than an Oak) and the Huon Pine which will provide the contrast, and will probably paint the wale black to stick with my theme.

Tim, I think she's going to look very nice. And to think it's taken me four days to draw six pieces of wood! W.C. Now, remember you are working off different drawings:

Allan, there's at least one in the Danish Archives, D 870 click on the diskette symbol to open a larger version. But if you mean English, then I can't remember any either.

These bits are done I think. I cut some wood and they seem to be going together alright. I mocked up the stern area and found out that a flat stern wouldn't work (and to a lesser extent a flat transom). So, back to the drawing board. Curved stern and timber transoms. After MUCH stuffing around I came to the conclusion that the stern is not just curved but is a section of a cone! The curve at the rail is tighter than that at the counter. The following image also shows me trying to work out the outboard ends of the transoms, first with a flat bevel and not with, hopefully, correct curves.

A Christmas update, currently working on an new rendition for a possible PoB but ran out of time today. False deck and false keel are probably done, moulds (bulkheads) are mostly done, keel needs a little 'fettling' and just getting started on the stern. Merry Christmas everyone!