iMustBeCrazy
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Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy
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Tim, don't forget the pumps. I had a little play with ideas when you first posted your little cutters little cutter. I came up with ZAZ6347 (Vigilant) which has light pencil lines representing boats each side of the main hatch. Now Vigilant was a little larger making this more practical but I drew 18' (port) and 16' (stb) cutters on Lapwing:
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Ah, a CrazyCutter ™ MkI-L, looks like it does the job
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As they decked over the bridge deck openings the four forward ladders became redundant. It would appear one was cut down and used to get over the top of the kennels, another had a couple of upper treads removed and used port side aft probably because the amount of stores along the centreline prevented previous access from the starboard ladder unless you went all the way up to the mainmast and back. Just a guess.
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Me too, anyway that's a nice little cutter for your nice little cutter.
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Correct, outside the galley door. Again correct.
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Ship Ribbing with CAD?
iMustBeCrazy replied to Sanjith_D's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Well, you can follow my bumbling path through the links in my sig with the Lapwing drawings and build (to date) but I seriously suggest you start with something simpler than a Frigate, say a dinghy, skiff, dory etc. in 1:24 or 1:16 Meanwhile look for Frigate drawings you like in the best quality you can find, perhaps the Enterprize class, many nice big drawings: https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?search=rmg+enterprize&title=Special:MediaSearch&go=Go&type=image&fileres=>1000 https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?search=rmg+rose+plan+-chart+-painting&title=Special:MediaSearch&go=Go&type=image&fileres=>1000 -
Mike, I've always seen the dog kennels as recycled packing crates, pretty rough and ready. Built in sections of 3 and 4 dogs, sometimes the gap between two sections is roofed over for an extra dog. Probably 1/2 inch planks roughly sawn to length, butt jointed (I think that shingled look is just warped planks). Those forward seem rougher than the rest, possibly they used the best material aft? The 'Bovril' shot probably the best guide to their construction.
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It is indeed. Dan, here's a few more clues: https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/roemerschiff-victoria/ https://roemerschiffe.de/victoria/ Looking at the last shot I see the midships moulds look to be arcs and the other moulds use the same arc rotated. Taking the above and adding it to This: Gives: Certainly not 100% right but perhaps 90%? It doesn't include the bow or stern either.
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A screenshot:
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Next two counter timbers done. Also some planking, a wale, the counter and stern roughly mocked up. I think the counter is going to need a slight curve on the sides.
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Brain fade. 2' tall in the middle, 4' x 4' square, 2 windows each side, hinged centre panel in the roof either side. Azimuth compass a couple of feet forward of it (not shown in this pic), binnacle forward of that.
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A tiny update representing a lot of head bashing. The inner pair of counter timbers: I had to remove 'deck beam' 18 to get them in, all six will be attached to it before being installed as an assembly. I thought I had the outer counter timbers worked out (several times) but I think I'll have to give up and do them in multiple pieces like Chuck did Cheerful.
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I think this is all I've got. The photo seems to confirm the sketch in that it shows the top glass is very steep (behind the guy's legs on the right).
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Greg, A few more thoughts, No glue, just press fit. Or at worst a tiny dab of PVA on exposed surfaces that can be chiselled off later. 1/4" dowel stepping down at the ends. Perhaps in segments with couplers, slide the coupler along and the dowel is 'cut'. You could cut the disks with side cutters/wire cutters to remove them. Some thin C.A. into the end grains before boring should give a smoother hole.
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I haven't fully thought this out but perhaps bore out these disks to take a shaft for alignment? Then your supports could support the shaft and be standardised, some fixed to a base some moveable to wherever you're working.
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Thanks Tony. Biggest worry at the moment (apart from everything else) is the MDF bulwarks, I have to fair one side unsupported so that I can plank or line them so they are supported to fair the other 🤷♂️
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Some progress, in a forwards direction Build board built, 'deck beams' bent, everything glued up to and inc the 'deck beams'. Wale being test fitted (again), waterway being worked out (they're next I think). After the waterways it'll have to be the counter timbers, that will be fun.
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First issue with the drawings, moulds 2 and 4 have the labels swapped, 2 should be 4 and 4 should be 2.
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Hopefully
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Initial drawings (Ver 1.0) added to post #1.
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Yes and yes. I used 9mm mdf plus a piece of 3mm. Base is 100x50 big enough to be useful small enough to be handy. The top bits are 25x40 with the right one notched to allow clamping a stop. Everything is just glued in place. Make sure the corners where they meet the saw are square. Glue the left block first and allow the dry then use a straight edge (ruler) and scribe the cut line. Glue the right block using the saw as a spacer and a straight edge to align the blocks, let dry. Glue the 3mm guide and let dry. Cut the guide slot in the 3mm piece. Done. The only things that matter are the squareness of the slots (two sides/corners of each block and the guide) and the alignment of the two blocks. You could do the guide in two pieces using the straight edge to align the left side and the saw the right.
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And here we have the CrazyCutter MkII
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Looking closely at my 'old worn out' razor saw it's actually a pull saw but I like it better as a push saw. 😕
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A mixture, or some stained some not? Part of the idea is to break up the 'sameness' of the decking.
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Tim, I use a cutting guide (one sided mitre box) and a razor saw for the cross cut then mostly a chisel blade and a file to remove and clean up the rest. Instead of the chisel blade you could also use the razor saw lying on a spacer. I really should remake the cutting guide with the guide piece twice as deep and twice as high (it's currently 12mm deep and 6mm high).
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