coxswain
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coxswain reacted to MarisStella.hr in News and Info from MarisStella Ship Model Kits
After installing the flooring, the internal planking goes to the deck ...
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coxswain reacted to MarisStella.hr in News and Info from MarisStella Ship Model Kits
Hello again...
I wish all the best in the new year to all of you dear friends...
... I would continue with the log ...
So, the next step is putting the flooring between the keelson and the bilge keelson, to each side of the model ... It is good to do this before ending the interior planking because the manipulating is easier in this way... So it looks like this :
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coxswain reacted to cog in IJN Musashi by cog - Tamiya - 1:350 - PLASTIC - old tool
Thanks Pat
Which keyboards was that OC ... the one from your build log ...
Right this is one evening of work - at least part of the evening ...
24 more to go, hope the next ones go a little faster ...
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coxswain reacted to Bob Blarney in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
Good Advice there. If money is available, then it might be wise to order two pair - one for ordinary living, and one for modeling.
Also for when I use power tools, I have some stick-on magnifiers for (semi-disposable) plastic safety goggles. When the goggles are finally scratched beyond usefulness, I can peel them off and put them on a new goggle.
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coxswain reacted to Richvee in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
As an optician,I have a little info for you guys to keep in mind. The foster grant readers with different diopter values will work well for some. Obviously, the higher the diopter power the closer the focal length, more magnification, and better for closer work. As you decrease the diopter value, the farther away from your eye the objects will be clear. The progressive,variable lens is the way to go if you can get used to them. It may take take some work, but remember, your eye is a group of muscles, so muscle memory needs to develop for you eyes to use the progressive lens effectively.
Maybe the most important thing to remember is, get a good eye exam. And MAKE SURE you explain to the doctor what you want your lenses to do. Tell the Dr you model and need to see very little items at very close distances. This makes all the difference, as the average exam will refract you for clear vision at far distances for driving, watching TV, etc, and an "addition" for reading vision at a distance of around 18". These "additions" are what is marked on those foster grants as +1.00, +2.50,etc. For our modeling needs, we need to see clear at a closer distance than the average 18" used for your reading needs, and that requires a different Rx (Higher addition) . Your doctor might prescribe for you one Rx for hobby use, and another for everyday use. The key is telling him what you want to use the glasses for.
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coxswain reacted to Kevin in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
spent a few hours yesterday and today working on the ships boats, only the outer hull is original from the kit, the rest is PE
only the outer hull is used, everything else comes as part of the KA PE kit
all parts for one
and four
well that's 7 done
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coxswain reacted to Keith_W in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
Kevin, I downloaded your second image and looked at the EXIF info. I see that you are using a Canon 1300D, at 32mm focal length, f/4.5, 1/60 shutter speed, ISO 160, and shooting in Program mode. The reason you can not get a decent picture is because the depth of field is too shallow.
May I suggest you try this: Aperture priority mode, f/11, auto-ISO, shoot your lens at the widest setting, and tripod. Also, try to avoid taking images where your model is angled, as it is in both your pictures. This means that part of the picture will be in focus, while others are out of focus.
That weathering looks great, by the way.
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coxswain reacted to Kevin in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
for some reason i am not able to get decent picture with new camera, the build actually does look better in RL, still experimenting with the weathering
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coxswain reacted to Kevin in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
Thank you Joe, and everyone for the likes and comments
spent more time today on the bow area, will need a lot of weathering I think
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coxswain reacted to Kevin in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
good evening everyone
made progress on the bow today, and then started to darken the decking more, you can see the difference by number 2 turret,
My trusty friend Dobbie is never far away from me
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coxswain reacted to Kevin in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
Good evening everyone
The kit is ordered, the Deluxe PE kits is not available in the UK at present, should be another couple of weeks
The Victory is safe and secure for a while, and will be finished
The Workroom has had a bit of a make over as well, i put a window in at the weekend, at last i have some natural light in there and a different carpet as the one i had, it was impossible to find anything when dropped onto it,
research
http://www.ipmsstockholm.se/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2250&start=30
http://www.kbismarck.com/models/
http://3dhistory.de/wordpress/3d-models/dkm-bismarck/bismarck-high-res
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=144178
http://www.bismarck-class.dk/shipmodels/shipmodels_menu.html
https://www.facebook.com/BismaarckModell148Scale/photos_stream
http://www.bismarck-class.dk/shipmodels/shipmodels_menu.html
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coxswain reacted to Roadking in Plank bending without soaking
As a new builder I didn't realize that I was using the bending heat tool incorrectly all along. This video demonstrates a method that really works very well. I wet the plank briefly and start bending and it is amazing how easily the plank forms to whatever shape you need.
Of course i learned this when I was 3/4 done. Aghhh!
Hopefully this may help others new to building.
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coxswain reacted to maturin52 in Sirene 1775 by Roadking (Vincent) - Corel - Scale 1:75 - French Frigate - First wooden ship build
The Admiral (my lovely wife) just got me a plank-bender for Christmas. I love it, it's my new best friend - or wil be when I start my next build. HMS Bounty is almost finished - a year and a half in!. Knowing I am considering USS Constitution next, she also got me the Anatomy of the Ship Series edition of the USS Constitution. I guess she's either supportive, or an enabler, depending on your point of view.
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coxswain reacted to Roadking in Sirene 1775 by Roadking (Vincent) - Corel - Scale 1:75 - French Frigate - First wooden ship build
Thank you Maturin52. I never thought of it that way but you have a great point. I actually thought it was not good practice to use short pieces, hence my struggle. That tip should certainly help with the remainder of the hull.
I also just learned the correct way to use the heat tool for plank bending. I had the tool but was using it incorrectly all along. Since I learned how to use it, plank bending is a breeze. I will post the video as it may help another newcomer.
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coxswain reacted to Roadking in Sirene 1775 by Roadking (Vincent) - Corel - Scale 1:75 - French Frigate - First wooden ship build
This is what I am up to at this point. Trick part is getting the hull planking to follow the correct lines. This same kit was posted here on this site a couple of years ago but I do not see any finished photos and the kit illustrations are not too helpful.
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coxswain reacted to Roadking in Sirene 1775 by Roadking (Vincent) - Corel - Scale 1:75 - French Frigate - First wooden ship build
Earlier photos. I have since fixed the big dimple on the first layer of hull planking at the bow.
Wood filler is my friend.
I may have gone a bit heavy with the marker on the edge of the deck boards.
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coxswain reacted to Roadking in Sirene 1775 by Roadking (Vincent) - Corel - Scale 1:75 - French Frigate - First wooden ship build
This is my first attempt at model ship building. I purchased the kit about 5 years ago and after about 2 months could not find the time to continue so I put her down. I am now recently retired and looking forward to completing it.
She's a beautiful ship, however since this is my first attempt I am not looking for museum quality by any means. That will become obvious when I post my photos. I am hoping that when I have completed it it looks nice enough to display in my home. My friends will think it's nice because they won't know any better anyway.
I appreciate any and all help, ideas, suggestions and constructive criticism. I will not be offended and i am here to learn. If you are willing to spend a bit of your time to help me I'd be a fool to not thank you.
I will try to correct major errors that may be identified. Some minor mistakes might stay and i will know better for next time. Since I am well into the project it might be too late to fix some anyway.
Thank you in advance for your help and encouragement.
Vincent
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coxswain reacted to MarisStella.hr in Barque Stefano kit development by MarisStella.hr
Thanks Don...
Yes... Finally, there are some photographs from our website :
... It was a very hard work to complete this kit, but it was also enjoyable ... Starting from the research work, to the first prototypes, to the kit designing and finaly to the finished kit project ... This kit is producing as a regular MarisStella item now ...
Thanks to all of the associates...
Best regards,
Zoran
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coxswain reacted to MarisStella.hr in Barque Stefano kit development by MarisStella.hr
Jean-Pierre, Zoltan, Robinson and the other dear friends,
thank you very much... I am going to post some experimental photos here a bit later.... The log will be posted here as well, but I can not promise when would it be ... This model, the one that my colleagues are building now, is preparing for the competition, so there are to many things to do ... But I am sure, You will see the complete build log here ...
Best regards,
Zoran
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coxswain reacted to CharlieZardoz in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
Ok gentle viewers so I received my decking materials and I am a bit concerned and could use some clarity, Explanation, a waaays back I got some off-white Holly at 1/6" thick, before I decided that veneer would work better for solid hulls. I ordered white veneer and decided it was too white for my taste. I could stain or weather it, or I could use silver maple but didn't like the figure. I also don't like a deck being too yellow or brown (like boxwood) so decided on picking up some off-white veneer. However the veneer I got is very grey almost greenish. While it kinda looks like the deck of current sailing ships (Eagle and Victory as examples which are very grey), I was hoping it would have looked like the 1/6" strips I have which kinda look like basswood. (See images below for comparisons). I mean it could work... but my understanding of historical ship decks actually looked like (and how to work with woods for modeling) is limited.
The main thing is I want a bit of consistency in my models what I use for one I'd like to use for others down the line. Unless in situations where more weathering is required (military vs non-milary ship) etc. So what say you all? Is this holly veneer too grey/greenish would you consider using it? Maybe I am wrong and the color is perfect for decking! I mean I have limited funds and not sure what to do now..
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coxswain reacted to CharlieZardoz in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
First we have Tung oil. This stuff really is an oil and seeps through anything thin like a veneer strip. It was fascinating watching each type of wood transform. Oil does nothing for basswood but cherry gets all this lovely figure. Pear is pinkish, boxwood and holly is yellowish.
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coxswain reacted to CharlieZardoz in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
Next was wipe on poly and then natural finish stain. Natural dries similar to tung oil while poly seems like more of a varnish. It's not oily like the others and doesn't look as nice on cherry. However poly looks great on holly. I don't feel holly needs oil makes it look weird. So I am already envisioning the deck will have wipe on poly while the other woods could use tung oil and then maybe poly over that to protect it. Is this common practice? Also is natural stain an oil like tung?
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coxswain reacted to CharlieZardoz in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
This chart on basswood shows a breakdown of some common stains. After natural, there is golden oak, fruit wood, early American and cherry. Basswood may varnish and oil lousy but it shows stain really well and serves as a good neutral. I tried some stain on the other woods but unless I want something deliberately tarnished (like simulating tarring on wood to which early American on cherry wood could look nice), generally fancier woods really just need polish or oil. The strips on the piece are pear, cherry, and various holly strips. The darker parts are oil or stain while the lighter parts are poly. The strip cherry is lighter than that scrap I used and there are 3 holly variations all offwhite but I circled the section that will represent the deck of the revenue cutter if I choose to use those dark holly strips. Also you can see the 3 strips change a bit when I use the flash.
I think this process overall taught me that what I thought I knew about the color of wood needed to be thrown out the window. Holly finished has a yellowish brown look similar to basswood at it's darkest. Cherry can vary sometimes much darker than pear.
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coxswain reacted to CharlieZardoz in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
So enough of that. Next up was an attempt at deck caulking. I tried pencil (didn't work too well for me), then charcoal (messy got everywhere), then paint (kinda the same). I also tried the black paper thing but with these veneer strips they are just too thin and the tiny 1/8" strips by 3/128" thickness just seemed silly at that scale. I used wood glue, welding cement and both made a horrible squishy mess. What worked best for me was the archival ink pens, which don't bleed and does the job. Will I change my mind? Maybe but for now this looks like the best way to go.
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coxswain reacted to CharlieZardoz in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
So last bit of intrigue for today is the concept of actual deck planks. I tried the scouring to simulate breaks but with tiny veneer strips perhaps that's not possible? Also the little nail spots which will eventually have treenailing, tried an awl, maybe a thin drill will work better.
Regarding the planking layout on this very helpful template sheet I see planks in an angle pattern is my understanding on how planks flow historically. Buuuuuut I noticed they all go the same way regardless of port and starboard side. Is that accurate? Shouldn't they mirror each other when they hit the center of the deck? Not mirror exactly but I assumed the flow would go in reverse?
Well that's it for now!
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