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    Wichita, Kansas, USA
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    Model ships, model airplanes, golf, gardening

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  1. Once the parts were beveled, they were assembled into the basic frame. Slots in each part interlock together, which forces alignment, and makes it more difficult to make mistakes (parts won't fit if you do it wrong). I was impressed that the parts slipped together easily with no extra sanding or filing. I didn't glue anything until I had all the parts fitting together correctly. Then I brushed thinned yellow glue over all the joints as recommended in the manual. Since this is internal structure, I didn't worry about being very neat with glue. This is just the start of the fr
  2. I've made a little bit of progress. Before assembling the basic framework, 3 bow and 3 stern bulkheads along with some bow support parts were beveled. It is smart to do some preliminary beveling before assembly when it's easy to do. Only problem is how much do you bevel, and to make sure you don't bevel too much. I used the photos in the manual to estimate how much to bevel, and used a Dremel with sanding drum to do the job. MDF parts were easy to sand with Dremel. I got it fairly smooth with Dremel, but smoothed it some more with sanding stick and circular sanding thing (a circular san
  3. Great work! You are really making progress. I'm curious what you think of the bamboo tree nails. Do they look any different than the "fake" tree nails on Syren that were holes drilled and filled in with wood filler. The bamboo ones are a lot more work, so curious if you think it's worth it as far as appearance goes. I like the filler pieces you added to keep things square. The Duchess that I just started uses what I call an egg crate structure which will force everything into alignment, or at least that's the theory. A lot of balsa airplane kits use this type of st
  4. Here's couple more photos from today that were focus stacked with Helicon software. Much, much easier and faster than Photoshop. I will use it from now on when I want to use focus stacking, which isn't all that often. But it's very nice when you need it, like to show details on a completed model.
  5. I have display case ready for plexiglass, but the store I'm going to have do it needs to order and then cut to fit, so that's on hold. I finally got around to taking some "final" photos of Syren. I tried using focus stacking and it seemed to work pretty good. But in the process my computer got extremely slow and I'm still trying to figure out what's going on. I've got my computer running fairly well again except for Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop, so I'm suspecting that somehow that software was what messed things up. First photo is of overall boat. The other photos
  6. I've barely done anything, but here's some photos. The first thing you do is built a simple cradle to hold the hull while building. These parts are MDF, which I haven't used before. There's no grain or warping to worry about, and they seem pretty strong. The laser cutting was excellent. I only had to sand smooth where the small tabs where and sand the slots a little to get the parts to slide together. The same goes for the false keel and a small piece that will be the base of a mast, assume main mast. The slot in the false keel and this piece will really help getting the mast
  7. Several months ago I ordered the kit from Vanguard Models. I knew I wouldn't be starting it for a while, but thought shipping from UK might be slow. It was not. The kit was delivered hardly a week after I ordered it, so it's been sitting here teasing me to get started. The box has something I found quite amusing. It says "not suitable for children under 36 months". Really? Maybe it meant 36 years! Unfortunately, I'm over qualified age wise, but not necessarily skill wise. This is my 4th build, but really my 3rd major build. The other kits I've built were all Model Shipway
  8. You are really moving along quickly! I've never used tung oil. How long does it take to dry?
  9. I'm following along also, and looking forward to your build log. You're going to inspire me get started on the Duchess!
  10. I'm finished! Many thanks for all the "likes" and comments. They are all very encouraging, and I need all the encouragement I can get. The boat makes a nice addition to the fireplace mantel, although from a distance the stones in background hide details. Here's some final photos.
  11. Thank you for the compliments, and I'm glad the log is helpful. When I see closeup photos, I start seeing all the things I need to try to do better next time around. Those closeup show everything, things I didn't see until the photo. I feel like this is hardly a beginner's kit, but it's great practice if you haven't made many model ships. The manual is excellent and the kit includes a number of spare parts which is kind of unusual in my experience. The small size is what gave me the most trouble. I was pleasantly surprised by how nice the printed friezes looked; I'd never do
  12. I agree with all the comments. It's a beautiful model, and details are stunning. I knew you'd make the anchor buoys look great, and all the rope coils look fantastic. I have really enjoyed your build long and look forward to following your next build. I have a lot to learn, and your log has helped a lot. It's inspirational! I think you were well past "beginner" stage when you started this model, and now you're fully qualified to be an "expert"!
  13. Here's photos of the jib sail halliard and some of the rope coils where lines are tied down. I'm getting close to the finish line.
  14. I used the blocks and rigging from model expo instead of upgrading them. The wood they are made of isn't very strong and splits easily. I've found if you try to drill into these for a hook, they crumble. You can also damage them pretty easily trying to round them off, so I used them as is. If I needed an eye or a hook on the block, I used wire to form it. These are so small, that I don't think it makes much difference visually except in closeups. Here's photo I took of blocks and "chains" for the backstays, so you can see what I did. You can also see that I was in the proce
  15. Here's two closeups of the shrouds where they attach to the hull with deadeyes and lashings. You can also see where the backstays attach to the hull with running rigging. The next photo shows the fore stay and halliard. The fore stay was a little longer than I wanted, but I decided it was ok to go ahead and lash it to the bow, even if lashings were short. The last photo shows the top of the mast where all the lines are seized. It's a real bundle of lines, especially when shown in a closeup.
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