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mikegr

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  1. I trimmed down the belt at an angle. Using a proper tool I created a slopping effect which is only visible only at close distance. Left side, done need to work at the right. Then I added new bases for the 40mm guns. Those at the bow did not exist at the original model so I added myself
  2. These old kits doesn't refer the time period but I expect to put 40 Oerlikons which means 1944? So you mean in 1/700 the ideal belt thickness is 0.5mm? That means I need to remove more material
  3. Unfortunately the wood deck I bought from the same manufacturer was of lower quality this time, somehow deteriorated. Studying about the painting schemes I found out that the deck could be painted with Navy Blue under Measure 22 system or something like this.That would be easier to do.However because of the sanding the lines on forward part of the deck had been gone. So designed one and printed it out . some PE details were added, bollards and a few other soon. Finally I sanded the side belt, it looked too thick perhaps one meter in real scale
  4. Next theme North Carolina by Aoshima I wash and remove the unwanted parts. Deck was covered by dozens of tape pieces 0.6 x 10mm before spray. That would give a planking effect. The result wasn't the desirable. Some corrections by hand didn't make the situation better. I decided to use sticker wooden deck which I usually keep for carrier decks. So much time wasted today on painting. Enough for today. Time to study some books
  5. Great work. Too much paintwork for me to deal with. Did you use brush only on airbrush too?
  6. It is done. I added a simple base, nothing to be proud of, but the overall look turned ok
  7. Thank you That would be a fascinating built. I have the Revell Leopard 2 but I'm hesitant about the camouflage painting
  8. I improved the "eyes" of the tank, using 3 mm drill. Then filing with silicone to have the glass effect. Silicone was painted with red food coloring. One single brush hair was used for the red dot. I brushed many times with light color then darker, to make the weathering. Some chipping applied. Next will be oii washing, before I paint the tracks
  9. Τhe tracks look very detailed. Actually they have some tiny printing supports that need to be removed. It was tricky business some pieces broke in two as they quite fragile. Attention was given on the lower part. At the upper part single track pieces were not used, fortunately side fenders hide the unfinished job, about 20%.
  10. I replace the cable with a thicker and more realistic one I believe. Wheels are painted not perfect but ok because the weathering effect will cover minor imperfections. Ready for placing the tracks. I have all weekend for this
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