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DanielD
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The way I accomplished this exact problem is making the hole in the brass the exact diameter of the body of the LED. Slide the LED from the bottom to rest on the lip and affix in place. No need to worry about the leads touching the Mount. Then I painted the bottom of the Led, the underside of the Mount, the same black as the Mount and it becomes invisible. -
I made mine a single unit, so no lower supports attach to the hull. Easier to remove to work on shrouds, and I doubt anyone will ever notice.
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Hi Bill, if I did it again I would do it differently. I soldered about 1” of flat 3mm bar in two places on the back side of the bracket, and then cut two slots into the side of the hull. This more or less made the entire device removable, so I could work behind it, then reinstall. Worked great, except cutting the flat slots into the hull was difficult. Instead, I’d I were you, I would use brass rod, maybe 1mm diameter, and affix to the back of the bracket. Then all you have to do is drill matching holes into the hull and slide in place. Still removable, but much easier construction.
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LoydB reacted to a post in a topic:
Amerigo Vespucci by DanielD - OcCre - 1:100
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DanielD reacted to a post in a topic:
Amerigo Vespucci by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/100
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DanielD reacted to a post in a topic:
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clearway reacted to a post in a topic:
Amerigo Vespucci by DanielD - OcCre - 1:100
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Bill, I know I’ma day late, but here is the progression of what I change on the include blocks to make them more realistic.
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DanielD reacted to a post in a topic:
Amerigo Vespucci by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/100
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DanielD reacted to a post in a topic:
Amerigo Vespucci by DanielD - OcCre - 1:100
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clearway reacted to a post in a topic:
Amerigo Vespucci by DanielD - OcCre - 1:100
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Bill, I found absolutely nothing listed for the AV in the area of rigging. As such, I chose 3 sizes each for black and light tan. When I first bough the lines I’m using I was able to get here in the US. When I realized I didn’t have enough, I had to obtain more from China which took about a month to arrive. So…not likely a good resource anymore. The lines I am using are lightly pre-waxed so no “fuzz” and work well, just current availability is non-existent. As for the blocks, I used the ones that came in the kit but I’m modifying them to be more realistic. Hard to put into words, but I’ll try. Holding the block in a pair of needle nose pliers, sand the corners off the top and bottom creating a curved edge. Flip 180 degrees and repeat. Next grab the block with the pliers along the edges just sanded, 90 degrees from the initial sanding, and sand off the corners again. Flip 180 degrees and repeat. This rounds out the block in two plains, to make it much more realistic. Lastly, I use a triangular file and redo the grooves, top, bottom and both sides. When I get home I’ll upload an image of a before and after. It’s quite the transformation for about a minute of work.
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clearway reacted to a post in a topic:
Amerigo Vespucci by DanielD - OcCre - 1:100
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Bill, there is nothing that says the resistor has to be next to the LED, meaning, the resistor can be inside the hull and a wire from one end of the resistor goes to the LED. In my setup, I ran a series scenario with the LEDs, meaning one resistor then the LEDs are run one after the other in series. This type of wiring does have a draw back, for the same reason Christmas lights are wired in parallel now days, if one bulb goes out, they all do. That aside, the resistor is inside the hull making for less hardware in the box.
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DavidG reacted to a post in a topic:
Amerigo Vespucci by DanielD - OcCre - 1:100
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Hi Bill, the light boxes you see on my build are hand made in an attempt to simulate the light boxes aboard the AV. Here is an image of one as an example. Of course in scale it’s not possible, so I have installed a single 3mm high intensity LED into each hand made box.
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DanielD reacted to a post in a topic:
Amerigo Vespucci by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/100
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Bill, nothing much you can do now. My next build I will paint the inside of the hull and the underside of the deck black, then an off white so that the light will reflect around eventually coming out the port holes. The light layer will reflect most of the light, but what leaks through the black layer will absorb the light so it can’t get through to the deck, etc. turning down the intensity of the LEDs didn’t make any improvement in my case.
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Bill, something I’ve learned through life…the admiral is always right! Nicely done!
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DanielD reacted to a post in a topic:
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Sternwheeler and Barge From the Susquehanna River's Hard Coal Navy by Keith Black - FINISHED - 1:120 Scale
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DanielD reacted to a post in a topic:
Sternwheeler and Barge From the Susquehanna River's Hard Coal Navy by Keith Black - FINISHED - 1:120 Scale
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DanielD reacted to a post in a topic:
Amerigo Vespucci by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/100
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DanielD reacted to a post in a topic:
Amerigo Vespucci by DanielD - OcCre - 1:100
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Hi Bill. Yes, I drilled the port holes and installed the grommets before painting. I paint most things using my air brush so I have complete control of where paint goes. When I sprayed the colors, I sprayed at an angle, not directly into the port holes, so what little paint makes it through the opening is not directed at the midline LEDs. As for my choice in painting the grommets, the porthole frames, take a look at any image of the real AV and you will find that the porthole frames are painted the same as the surrounding hull. I also added, not included in the kit, the porthole rain gutters which were all affixed prior to painting. Hope this helps. Daniel
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Knocklouder reacted to a post in a topic:
Amerigo Vespucci by DanielD - OcCre - 1:100
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Good evening mates, today I met a milestone with my AV! I finally have all the yards completed with all the hardware (15 of them). Next up is to add the blocks to the standing rigging, then the furled sails…once I figure that out.
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Bill97 reacted to a post in a topic:
Amerigo Vespucci by DanielD - OcCre - 1:100
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Yes, rubber cement. It’s a type of contact cement, put glue on both pieces, wait for it to dry, and press together (contact) for the adhesive to activate.
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Hey Bill, I used Elmer’s Rubber Contact Cement. It is great, but it was hard to get the hang of using it so I think that is why some don’t like to use it. For me, I worked in small sections the length of the ship. Since the AV is a steel hull, there is no need to spend a ton of time making planks, so I used long plank sections from bow to stern. I started by drawing a line on the hull to place the first plank. Brush a thin coat of the cement on the back side of a couple planks and on the area along the hull for two or three planks. Let the glue dry! This is important! The glue will be dry to touch. Then carefully place a plank along the line that was drawn on the hull. Press the plank in place. Contact and pressure is what activates the glue, but it is permanent. You won’t be able to remove the plank without braking it into a bunch of pieces. Careful placement is critical! This is what makes it hard to use. However, once I got the hang of it, it was by far my favorite way to attach planks to the hull and I will use this technique on the next deck I do in the future. Again, once “pressed” in place, it’s immediately stuck and permanent and no wait time is needed between planks.
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Hey Bill, it’s my turn to borrow an idea from you! I’ve been thinking how I might do my base for over a year, love what you have done!
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Hi Bill, I tend to keep everything left over from each model. Sometimes I find a good use for the leftovers.
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