DanielD

More detail, cannon doors and rudder chain.

More detail work finished. I didn’t realize how long building these pieces would take. Oh well, that’s the point of a hobby.

Starboard and aft paint detail completed. Now back to building detail pieces.

Paint detail finished on port side. That was a lot of work.

Started the painting detail. Now to do the other side.

Thanks, I’ll keep this in mind for my next model.

I love the detail you put into this model. Even after looking at it a couple of times, I always see something new. Impressive work!

Patrick, I have attached images from the instructions which shows exactly what I have done. I don't see where I did anything "wrong," at least not for the indicated beams. However, should I shorten the beams, it would move the holes and rope rigging that are currently outboard, to inside the ship wall drastically changing the direction and possible function of the lines/ropes that attach to these points. At this point, to shorten the beams as described, could be done; however, i'm not sure having the lines inboard would look aesthetically pleasing. On further evaluation of your suggestion, another option would be to cut out the inboard section, which makes sense as a person walking on the deck would not have to navigate the big beams. However; making this change at this point would cause a mess. Meaning, I have learned building this model that glue does not stick well to painted surfaces. As such, I removed the stain and some of the deck under the attachment point so that the glue holding the beams to the deck would have a wood-to-wood bond. Removing this section now would leave an ugly hole in the middle of the deck that I would need to repair. This is a level 2 (beginner) model to guide the builder through double planking a hull, planking decks, some fine wood and metal detail work, the use of various types of glue/adhesive and some basic rigging. Although being historically accurate is a good thing, this model by OcCre is not even close to historically accurate or even close to the replica's that have been built. No photographs exist of the 1577 Pellican (Golden Hinde), since the camera wasn't invented until 1888. What few drawings or sketches that I could find are from a distance and one author suggest that we do not even know what the ship really looked like. Additionally, it appears that actual dimension of the Golden Hinde do not agree between sources. Regardless, I chose this model as a good looking fun project to construct and as a skill building exercise for future models. It is after all, the first wood model I have ever attempted and i'm pleased with the work so far.

An update on some detail work. Ran into a bit of trouble assembling the deck cannons, the glue I have does not seem to hold (a basic white glue, CA slow & fast, and titebond). After some research, epoxy seems to have the best metal-to-metal bond. Will epoxy work to glue the cannons to the deck? Off to the store tomorrow.

Well, after many hours, the port side detail is finished.

Starboard side detail work done, now to do the port side.

Slow steady progress...

More starboard detail...needs a little paint touch up, but making slow progress.

The Lazy Saint, thank you for your kind words.

More work on the life boat and the decorations on the starboard side if the ship. It’s tedious slow work...

More work on railings.

Starting the railing project. This is harder then I thought it would be, such tiny pieces. Time to make a jig to make the railing pieces more consistent in size...

New rudder manufactured and brass fittings set. More work than I expected. Continuing to build skill set, so worth it.

More detail work.

Finally sealed the hull with a clear coat. Time to start the detail work.

Thanks Patrick, I'll see if I can scrounge up some wood and make a new rudder to fit. Good catch on the grain of the wood being the wrong direction...

Hey everyone, quick question. During the process of planking my ship, I have a couple of SMALL areas that I would like to fill. I don't plan on painting my hull, leaving it the nice rich color of the planking, but will be applying a satin varnish to protect the wood. First, is it even worth trying to fill the gaps, one is maybe 1/32" wide about 2" long and the other is maybe 1/16" by 1/8" "hole." If I should fill the gaps, what is the best way to achieve the color of the planking? I have read some threads that suggest making some fine sawdust from the scrap planking and mixing it with white/clear glue while others use commercial filler. I'm just not sure it's worth it as I could mess up what I have... If I use the glue method, how does one make this glue mixture to fill the gap? One thread I read was to put glue in the gap then lightly sand over area, the glue will attract the sawdust particles. My problem with this is that my gaps are so small, how do i get the glue in the gap without messing up the planking nearby? So much to learn....

Now that I more or less have the planking finished, I am looking on to the next few steps to have it in my mind what I will be working on. I think I have run into my first issue with this kit. It seems that the rudder does not fit while all the other parts so far have been right on. Also, and I'm sorry I don't know the correct terminology for this part, but a loop shaped piece of wood that goes around the rudder and should go through the hole in the stern of the ship which would when moved, would control the rudder. Anyway, placing the loop over the rudder as far down as it will go, and it is no where close to the hole that was prefabbed into the stern bulkhead. This is my first wood model kit...does this kind of think happen often?

New Year’s Day planking...I have som more sanding to do, but I’ll finish up a few things first. For my first wood ship, I’m happy with how it’s going.

Thanks Ondras71, I have been reading several items on the planking, one thing consistent has been that the plank should lay in its natural course which is what I have attempted to do. I initially tried to follow the line you suggested, but I had to bend the plank which caused a pucker in the boards. To avoid the "pucker" I just glued the planks down flat in their natural course. I'll keep working on it. I'ts my first wood model and i'm happy with how it has turned out so far. I'm sure as I do several of these over the years, i'll get better.