DanielD

Patrick, I wondered about that, leaving the anchors until later. I was following the instructions; however, the location for the lashing that holds the butt of the anchor does not exist yet. I held in place with a temporary line that I can easily remove, but if/when the anchors get in the way, I will remove them until later. A quick question though, as I'm starting to build the masts. The cross members appear to be held on with just the rigging. I'm sure this is the case on a real ship, but in the modeling world, do I glue the cross members to the vertical portion of the masts? Or do I just use the lashing that holds the two poles together? I'm sure some use only the lashing while others glue the cross members down. Has anyone done both and have a preference? Does it help to have a more stable mast when doing the rigging? Or does it matter at all. Any advise before I screw it up would be appreciated.

Today’s tasks started with a second coat of satin varnish to protect the new paint job and all the additions since the base varnish I applied when the hull planking was finished. Then a few new additions that took a long time as I needed to study knot tying. Today’s knots included the standard square knot, a stopper knot, a double half hitch lashing, a half hitch spiral (came out nice on the anchor), a cinch knot and probably a few more. All in all, a good day...

Some finishing touches to the detail work.

More detail, cannon doors and rudder chain.

More detail work finished. I didn’t realize how long building these pieces would take. Oh well, that’s the point of a hobby.

Starboard and aft paint detail completed. Now back to building detail pieces.

Paint detail finished on port side. That was a lot of work.

Started the painting detail. Now to do the other side.

Thanks, I’ll keep this in mind for my next model.

I love the detail you put into this model. Even after looking at it a couple of times, I always see something new. Impressive work!

Patrick, I have attached images from the instructions which shows exactly what I have done. I don't see where I did anything "wrong," at least not for the indicated beams. However, should I shorten the beams, it would move the holes and rope rigging that are currently outboard, to inside the ship wall drastically changing the direction and possible function of the lines/ropes that attach to these points. At this point, to shorten the beams as described, could be done; however, i'm not sure having the lines inboard would look aesthetically pleasing. On further evaluation of your suggestion, another option would be to cut out the inboard section, which makes sense as a person walking on the deck would not have to navigate the big beams. However; making this change at this point would cause a mess. Meaning, I have learned building this model that glue does not stick well to painted surfaces. As such, I removed the stain and some of the deck under the attachment point so that the glue holding the beams to the deck would have a wood-to-wood bond. Removing this section now would leave an ugly hole in the middle of the deck that I would need to repair. This is a level 2 (beginner) model to guide the builder through double planking a hull, planking decks, some fine wood and metal detail work, the use of various types of glue/adhesive and some basic rigging. Although being historically accurate is a good thing, this model by OcCre is not even close to historically accurate or even close to the replica's that have been built. No photographs exist of the 1577 Pellican (Golden Hinde), since the camera wasn't invented until 1888. What few drawings or sketches that I could find are from a distance and one author suggest that we do not even know what the ship really looked like. Additionally, it appears that actual dimension of the Golden Hinde do not agree between sources. Regardless, I chose this model as a good looking fun project to construct and as a skill building exercise for future models. It is after all, the first wood model I have ever attempted and i'm pleased with the work so far.

An update on some detail work. Ran into a bit of trouble assembling the deck cannons, the glue I have does not seem to hold (a basic white glue, CA slow & fast, and titebond). After some research, epoxy seems to have the best metal-to-metal bond. Will epoxy work to glue the cannons to the deck? Off to the store tomorrow.

Well, after many hours, the port side detail is finished.

Starboard side detail work done, now to do the port side.

Slow steady progress...

More starboard detail...needs a little paint touch up, but making slow progress.

The Lazy Saint, thank you for your kind words.

More work on the life boat and the decorations on the starboard side if the ship. It’s tedious slow work...

More work on railings.

Starting the railing project. This is harder then I thought it would be, such tiny pieces. Time to make a jig to make the railing pieces more consistent in size...

New rudder manufactured and brass fittings set. More work than I expected. Continuing to build skill set, so worth it.

More detail work.

Finally sealed the hull with a clear coat. Time to start the detail work.

Thanks Patrick, I'll see if I can scrounge up some wood and make a new rudder to fit. Good catch on the grain of the wood being the wrong direction...

Hey everyone, quick question. During the process of planking my ship, I have a couple of SMALL areas that I would like to fill. I don't plan on painting my hull, leaving it the nice rich color of the planking, but will be applying a satin varnish to protect the wood. First, is it even worth trying to fill the gaps, one is maybe 1/32" wide about 2" long and the other is maybe 1/16" by 1/8" "hole." If I should fill the gaps, what is the best way to achieve the color of the planking? I have read some threads that suggest making some fine sawdust from the scrap planking and mixing it with white/clear glue while others use commercial filler. I'm just not sure it's worth it as I could mess up what I have... If I use the glue method, how does one make this glue mixture to fill the gap? One thread I read was to put glue in the gap then lightly sand over area, the glue will attract the sawdust particles. My problem with this is that my gaps are so small, how do i get the glue in the gap without messing up the planking nearby? So much to learn....