DanielD
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Everything posted by DanielD
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Finished the starboard side of the second planking. Sorry, the pictures done do it justice. It’s nice and smooth without gaps. Should look great painted black.
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I’ve been thinking of what to do to hide the seam of the keel pieces. Then I was looking at Matthew Betts plans and had an idea, to put a piece of metal across the seams with appropriate rivets...it’s just an idea at this point. I know they won’t be in exactly the correct place, but close.
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In the shipyard today I finished the second layer of planking on the port side. There are a few minor issues, but I’m planning on painting the hull black so shouldn’t be an issue.
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It took a bit, but I found the image from one of the dives of the HMS Terror which shows a spider band on one of the masts.
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Back in the workshop today. Finished the first planking layer and lots of sanding. Then more sanding, a little filling, and more sanding. Attached are the results. Today’s questions: 1) I see some model builders add the ice bumpers before the final planking while others follow the OcCre instructions and finish planking before adding the bumpers. Is there a reason to add the bumpers first? 2) as I think ahead, I’m looking toward the straps on the masts. Should they be rope as in the kit instructions, or should they be metal? I’m happy to help do the research, but I don’t know where to start. It seems that Matthew Betts blog is not to that point yet. I did see in one shot of the found Terror wreck, a metal spider band at the base of a mast, presumably for belaying pins. Could this mean that the other bands were metal also? So many questions. 😬 Today I realized that the OcCre kit contains wood 4mm deadeyes and plastic 5mm deadeyes. Why would they do that? I’ve now ordered new wood deadeyes as well as new chainplates as the ones that included in the kit are not even close. I also found some scale figurines to add interest and a few other enhancements, like a new wood life boat kit, similar to the one Keith found for his build.
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Wahka_est, I looked to see if someone had answered this question, and I saw nothing, so here is my two cents. I use white/clear bees wax to coat the string/rope. I pull the string through the end of a block or wedge of wax 2-3 times before I use the rope for rigging. The wax does two things for me, hide the “hair” on the thread which is what you are looking for and also allows the thread to slightly “stick” to its self which helps when rigging, but for me it helps hold the knot when finished. I still secure the knots with a small drop of CA glue or watered down white glue, but I kind of wait until I have a section finished and secure all the knots at once. I know this info won’t help much on your HMS Terror, but could on future ships. BTW, your Terror is looking great! Daniel
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Yes, full length planks! I was surprised too. The Golden Hind I did last year did not have full length planks. I’m a very happy person.
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Last night I finished the lighting portion of this project, with everything working well. Then it was back to working first planking project. I realized late in the night when testing the lighting before going to bed, that as well as I believe I’m placing the planks, light still shines through the seams. When I experiment with the thin finish planks, I can see a faint glow through the planks. So....I ended up lining the hull with black card stock. A bit of extra work, but it couldn’t hurt to be safe.
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Keith, I thought about that, but at this time in my modeling career I'm not sure I could make a "perfect" seam that would look, well, invisible. I don't think it will be an issue at this point as the metal transmission I am using has double set screws which I will apply a drop of CA glue when I'm happy that all is working the way I want. But as always, thanks for the input. A little more work to do at the stern, then I'll use some hot glue to secure all the wires and LED's. My last area of concern is the planking. Specifically, in my last model, the Golden Hind, my first layer of planking was not perfect and had small gaps in places. It seems to be something that plagues many builders. While it's not usually an issue with the second planking as that is what one ultimately sees. As you know the wood strips that make up the second planking are very thin. Now that I have lighting in the hull to simulate the glow of a lantern, will that shine through any gaps in the first planking layer and then "glow" through the thin final planking? I'm not sure. I am planning on painting the hull black as that is one of the reasons I purchased this good looking ship, so maybe my concerns are not that big of a deal. I will of course do my best to minimize any gaps on this second model ship. I suppose I could line the inside of the hull with some opaque fabric or some other non-conductive material, but that seems like a lot of work for something that might not even be an issue. Oh the life of the modeler... Daniel
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More work in the shipyard tonight. I wired up the flicker LEDs in each compartment under the deck so the light will shine through the Illuminators. My hope is the the light will flicker, similar to an old fashion lantern. I have two LEDs on the deck that will be under the two deck structures with windows. The LEDs run on 9v while the motor is 6v. Thus the need for the voltage regulator. All wired up and working with a little more work to do on the stern so that the cabin windows can be clear and allow the lantern light to show through. I also updated the transmission between the motor D shaft and the flexible propeller drive train because I was concerned that over time the shrink wrap I originally used would get hard and eventually fail. All this in an area of the ship that once I close it up will be inaccessible. FullSizeRender.mov
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Very funny! How I originally read your message was “I dare you to...” I have such a device in my collection of stuff, but the one I have is 12v and I’m rigging this ship to run on only 9v. Besides, the smoke oil is kind of messy and with the wood of the model, I’m going to pass on this wonderful suggestion. On a separate note, my LEDs arrived yesterday and they work great, kind of flicker when on, so the illusion of lantern light. I hope to start installing these later tonight.
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Here is proof of concept: my goal - to make the screw/propeller turn in the correct direction (counter clockwise) at a generally slow speed, in my case 30 RPMs. My first attempt used a steel rod as the drive shaft, but this put too much bind on the motor to work effectively. My final solution was to use a short section of weed whacker string, flexible and about the correct size for my needs. The fiber string I used had a cross section of a star, which would work great on the motor side but not such a good fit in the small hole on the propeller. After a few minutes of sanding the string, while being turned in the dremel tool, the shaft was round and the correct size for the propeller. In the end I used a piece of shrink wrap to act as a transmission between the D shaft of the motor and the star section of the fiber rod. The final result is in the video below. IMG_2239.MOV
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More work on the propeller. Added the hole on one side as depicted in the research by Matthew Betts, and cleaned up the piece a bit. My plan is to chemically blacken all these parts, which I hope works as I’ve never done this before. Chemicals will be in later this week. I also want to polish this up a bit but my first attempt has only made it shiny, not smooth.
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Finally made it through your entire build so far. Great job, everything looks awesome and some great ideas as I build mine. Daniel
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Apparently I have more work to do, I almost missed the hole on one blade of the propeller as seen in the work done by Matthew Betts
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In today’s shipyard, I started with the rough changes to accommodate the motor to spin the propeller. Also, I drilled through the hull for the shaft as well as modified the propeller to accept the shaft. It was tricky to get the hole centered on the propeller and just the correct size to make a snug fit on the shaft. So far, all looking good. Next I have to wait for the motor to arrive later this week to finish this install. Now to find a good location to hide the 9v battery and allow for replacement. Does anyone know what direction the propeller spins for forward operation? I need to know in order to wire the motor and install the propeller correctly. Thanks, Daniel
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After some thought, I have decided to show off some of the Terror’s unique features. Specifically I am going to install flickering LED’s under the deck (so the light flicker will show through the illuminators) and in areas with windows (captains cabin, and two deck buildings). Also I plan to install a slow turning DC motor to turn the propeller when I turn the lights on. This will all run off a 9v battery that will be hidden blow deck under a removable deck building. I’m considering where to put a switch to turn on/off the lights, my first idea is to make one of the hand pumps I just ordered into a switch, lift up on the handle and things turn on, push down on handle and everything turns off. So, more planning before I close up the hull...
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Well Keith, I’m not sure if I should thank you or curse you 😉, but I looked at both your and clearway (the other Keith’s) build logs as well as looked over the research Matthew Betts has been doing, and well, I need to make some changes. To start with, I ordered a 10 point wheel and hand pump kit. I also took your advise and filled the grommet holes with hot glue and when I cut the excess off with a sharp blade, I achieved a frosted lens look, similar to what was recovered from the Terror a few years ago. I attempted to add the bolt pattern to the grommets with the hopes of adding some detail. While I could not get 24 bolts in my scale, I did get 12. I’m fairly happy with the result, I just had to repeat the process 32 times 😬! Thank you for pointing me in the right direction, Daniel.
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Thanks for the info Keith! Sadly I have the “illuminators” glued in, but I’ll think of something, maybe a clear polished dowel that slides in to make a lens... The two in the center for the pumps, do you have any info on them? Like what they looked like or what popped through the deck? While My main goal is to build a good representation of the Terror and know that I won’t be exact (this is only my second wood model), but, I will make an attempt to adjust when I learn something new, like the “illuminators.” Thanks again for the kind comments about the deck! Daniel
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Decided to add the grommets (not sure what the nautical term is) , while I could use the drill press.
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Finished the deck. Thinking about drilling the holes in the deck out of order based on the instructions as is easy to do now rather than after glued to the hull.
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The deck so far...I changed up the deck planking as suggested by the instructions to individual boards using artist charcoal to define the individual planks. I’m also attempting to make the planks look old, will see how that turns out.
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