jaerschen

I have finished planking the inside of the hull up to the lower deck clamps with poplar and am in the process of treenailing all the planks to the frames.  I also started the planking on the outside hull, but will wait until the inside is finished before finishing the outside.  I am using bamboo for the treenails.
 

I have done some work on the forecastle area.  I have the beams in place and also the jeer bitts.  I am in the process of the installing the lodging and hanging knees.

Not much progress to show over the last few weeks.  Spring has finally arrived so the model does not get as much attention as it desires.
 
I decided to install the string at the waist and the forecastle and quarter deck clamps.  The string at the waist is a single row of planking with its lower surface forming the top of the gun port and its upper surface forming the top of the bulwark. It continues fore as the forecastle clamp and aft as the lower quarter deck clamp.  Hook scarves are used throughout. The apparent decorative element at the fore end of the quarter deck clamp will actually be used to help lock in the spirketing.   
 

 

 
The upper quarter deck clamp has simple butt joints.  In the pictures is appears that the lower edge of the string overhangs the gun port.  It actually is flush with the top of the port.
 

 
I encountered two problems.  First, I measured the height of the clamp at the stem incorrectly and had to replace it.  On the picture you can see a faint pencil line indicating where the clamp was originally positioned.  The second problem has the potential to be more serious.  I have two rows of planking with the top edge just coming up to the bottom of the aft port opening.  David's layout shows the planking runs above the level of the port with a chock connecting the planks fore and aft of the port.  At this point it is too late to change the port.  I think I measured the port height off David's mylar and the clamp height off the NMM plans.  Hopefully it will all work out OK.  The key is that the top of the opening is below the top of the deck beams.
 

 

 
 

Starboard main mast channel attached, and brass supports from above...
Position check with chainplates to end before the wale...
 
Nils
 
 
 

three supports
 

chainplate length fits

Here the next photos. There you can see the Ballard-Timbers.

Got the 2nd Cannon Cut but had a collision between the bit and the part during a move doing an end trim!! Just nicked it a tad, a little bondo and she'll be ok.... LOL It was my Boo-Boo in some hand made gcode I did, I told the machine to move from one end to the other and drop in height at the same time, the machine is blind and so must I be at times because I didn't think about it hitting as it went to the other end... LOL  Another problem I need to work on is drilling the barrel hole, I normally use my HF mini-lathe 7x10 to bore a hole in a shaft but these Cannons are too long for the tailstock & bit to accommodate them. So I'll need to make a jig that holds the blank vertical and drill on the Cnc wood mill.
 
The cannons pivot shaft hole was bored from both sides, I feared a tear out of the wood as the bit came out the other side so I only bored half way, did I 180 degree rotation and bored again into the same hole location. I was a tiny bit off but close enough to make it work with no wood tear out in the poplar wood. The gcode to do that simple thing had to be coded by hand, the expensive gcode software can't do it!!! So now my gcode is getting more things to do, one step at a time, I can bore the pivot hole & trim the ends by Cnc. It's still taking roughly  2-1/2 hours to make one Cannon, not exactly production run speed by any means..... LOL
 
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
AL

Here the next photos. There you can see the Ballard-Timbers.

At last it's time for something that's not head rails. The pedestal for the swivel guns are fairly simple affairs constructed of 4mm square shaped to an octagonal cross section. Filing the notches for the sheer and rough tree rail was not as difficult as I expected but just needs some care. Measuring on one side for the correct angle gives the right angle to cut for the opposite side. There's 14 of these to make up.


Easter weekend means a bit of time on my side for once so I also replaced part of the sheer rail at the bow where I'd cut it a bit short while installing the cathead knee/head rail. It had been on my mind ever since.
Also today's beer is a doppelbock. Not a bad drop with a load of maltiness but more of a red hue than a full black or porter ale. The taste of autumn...

Hola Amigos! (put it mexican accent like in the movies)
 
 
Well... It took me almost one month.
 
The worst part has been to remove all the patterns and PVA glue from the frames. I did it using just water and a brush wetting the frames (three or four at a time. Then with an x-acto blade I scrapped the glue or the pattern working extremely carefully trying not harm the wood...
 
here are some pics. Not in order.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I have printed out the stern timbers and the lights. That´s where I am going to move on in order to make the main wales. I am kind of following Wang´s log.
 
Happy Sunday!
 
 
daniel.
 

Hello Juergen!!
 
I do remember those pics working with the press mill! Nice to see your Triton back and waiting to see all those single frames on its place. Really interesting project. GOOD LUCK!
 
And welcome aboard again!
 
 
Daniel.

Moin Jürgen,
 
that's a big surprise. I am really happy that you continue your build.
 
Will we meet next week at the exhibition in Wilnsodrf?

Juergen,  I had forgotten about your single frame build.  Great looking work. I can hardly wait to see your frames.
Randy

am exercising with the channels right now, but thought it would be best to mount the side decors first. The etched Amati decors are very precise and I can imagine for those building the kit the Position and size of the gunports are readily given and cut out, but when building to plan, one has to place those gunports absolutely exact, otherwise the decor`s outcut spaces wont fit properly
 
 
Nils
 
 

the etched decors were brushed over with a fine grit to get tem shiny again and then sealed off with clear varnish
 

all fits into the scheme well
 

 
 

main mast starboard channel plate, underside, 2mm three layer ply
 

topside, shall see how the angle Support bracket fit best later on, and where those are to be spaced, so the do`nt hinder the deadeyetackles

Build log part 24
 
 
 

chainpump Station with housing, drain plugs, the discharge sides ore closed whith slide shutters
 

crank handles for chainpumps and Forward bearing supports, and Support for the spare masts and spars as well as Posts and belaying rack. The three mid Pins will be replaced with smaller ones
 

the grating cover of the main load hatch is and stays removeable
 

 
 

 

it is amazing how fast the dust settles in the open portside interior, Need to carefully brush it out now and then
 

all the aft cabin bulkheads are waiting to be set
 

it was always my wish and Intention to have a figurehead in cast brass instead of resin, it was impossible to get it anywhere, acc. to Chris Watton Amati would`nt do it because they favour resin, but I would not give up..., so now after Research and activity I have my own prototype one in scale 1/64 and it fits very well and gives the model a Special note
 

 

 
 
 
Nils

Hi Nils,
 
a very interest build do you show us. The internal fitting is looking great.
It seems you have much experience in model building

If I fit the transoms I had a big trouble. The reason was a wrong angle at the top-view plan.
On the following photo you can see the correct angle and the discrepancy.

 
If I know that it was possible to fit transoms.







 

If I fit the transoms I had a big trouble. The reason was a wrong angle at the top-view plan.
On the following photo you can see the correct angle and the discrepancy.

 
If I know that it was possible to fit transoms.







 

Hello guy's
 
I will start my build of the Triton again.
Christian (AnobiumPunctatum) and I are started our builds in 2009. But we built the hull in single frame and not in double frame based of the original drawings (Christians idea). It was originally planned to use the MSW frame drawings. But I realized during the build of the fore cant frames that the MSW frame drawings were not suitable for a single frame build. That's why I had a break for about 4 years. Now I pencilled all the frames new and would like to continue the build of the frames. After the frame build I'll use the MSW drawings for the remaining build.
Now there are some photos from The keel, stern apron etc.
 







 
More photos are following soon

Excellent! I study on your work.

If I fit the transoms I had a big trouble. The reason was a wrong angle at the top-view plan.
On the following photo you can see the correct angle and the discrepancy.

 
If I know that it was possible to fit transoms.







 

Hello Guys
Much thanks for the nice comments. I'm thinking it will be a great help to spend more time for the model.
I worked a lot last time and don't really have time to look here on MSW or build at the Leopard.

Greetings to all,
Mark, Tim, Pete, and Bindy thanks for looking in on my build and for the advice, motivation, and/or kudos. You all inspire me to continue giving my best and looking for ways to improve myself.
I thought Woody blended in too well (like a ninja), into the surrounding ship and decided to paint him so that he could stand out a bit. I decided to also get started on the aft quarterdeck and framed the QD beam by adding the carlings and ledges, and planking the port side of it. I’ve managed to start on the entry steps but still have to get started on the fenders. I also started on the gangway in order to best determine how I would go about making the brackets. I will be honest with all of you and confess that soldering the brackets was not my cup of tea and I did a little research on line and came across a web site (http://model-ship-plans.com/Campbell/Deck%20furniture.html ) and it explained that gangway brackets were made with either iron or wood. Since I am not too savvy on soldering and I have already incorporated plenty of wooden knees on my Triton, I decided to make wooden brackets for my gangway. The following photos will show how she is starting to look.
On a side note, whenever I place Woody on board the Triton, I tend to forget he’s there and move my ship from place to place, hence Woody falling to the ground a lot (I believe he may be a little suicidal, what do you think?).

Greetings to all,
I went ahead and added the ladder to the lower deck and made and installed the platform for the port side lower hold area. The next step is to make the ladder in order to have access to the platform where the fresh water barrels will be stored. So far, everything has been constructed in terms of inches and/or millimeters. While everything was made according to measurements, one cannot truly appreciate scale. Keeping this in mind, I decided to make a wooden man in order to get a better feel as to the size of the Triton. At 1:48 scale, a 6 foot tall man would be 1.5 inches in height. I went on line and searched for male dimensions to make certain that my effigy of a man would be at the correct proportion, hence the birth of “Woody”. I’ve placed Woody at different areas on the Triton and I am truly surprised at how large these ships really were. The following photos will show you Woody standing near certain elements on the Triton as a means of seeing how everything compares to a 6 foot tall man.

Hello Everyone,
Here’s another update to the Triton, this time in the form of canons. Well yesterday I mentioned that I would go ahead and start working on adding the eyebolts to the carriage assembly. Not only did I add the eyebolts, I also added the breeching as well and went ahead and secured them to the bulkhead. I still need to work on the gun tackles but that is for another day.
Cheers,
Raymond

Thanks Tim!! If enough people were interested then I could post some info over in the "Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment" section! 
 
Spent all night doing the fine tuning and got all the configurations in Mach3 set so it would all work correctly together and......Drum roll here......the first test Cannon in almost done with its rough cut!!!!  Well....shiver me timbers!!.... its done with the rough cut!!   Now to do a tool change and get the finish cut done! Here's what it looks like so far, the tail end is modified somewhat so as to have some meat for the 3-jaw chuck to hold on to, I'll cut and add the tailpiece later.
 
Took 1 hour to do the roughing cut, 1/4" Ball nose bit, 10% step over, 70 IPM. More coming so stay tuned in!!
 

 

 

 

 
AL