jaerschen

Thanks for dropping by and the kind words Aldo, Juergen, and Mobbsie.
 
I've been working on the gundeck capstan.  I'm on hold for the foredeck capstan as it's smaller and I wanted to see how the big one went first.  Taken several tries but that part of learning. Mostly, I had issues with the power tools.. the mills specifically in setting things up.  Somewhere around here are probably 10 to 15 bits of things that went flying off before I figured how how to get everything clamped down perfectly..   Live and learn.
 
I also had to do some research.  The plans and most of the builds I've seen for French ships show the capstan style from the late 1600's to the mid-1700's.  I finally located several pics of some ship models for the mid-late-1700's.
 
First picture is of the parts (but not the whelps).

 
This was the fun part.. using the rotary table.  Had a bit of problem figuing out how to secure things to it. Took a couple of runs to various hardware stores for some M6 screws and nuts but I got it sorted out.   Below are the parts set up for rounding off and starting the machining.  The spindle has been machined down.  As for the chunk on the left,  I ended up using a tapered wood screw to center the wood square pieces and secured with washer and nuts.  I didn't get a picture of that.

 
After machining in the pawl slots on the bottom and the bar slots on the head, I assembled everything (but not glued) for a size check. Twas a bit too high.

 
After re-sizing the height, I finished the shaping of the head and then reset the height again.... it was still to high.  It's been taken apart, re-machined for height and reglued.

 
Right now the whelps blanks are drying in position and I'll spin it on the lathe to shape them.  Probably tomorrow.  I hope.
 
Side note.. I have an old coffee cup that is kept about 1/4 full of alcohol.  Simple matter to drop the whole assembly in and in a bit, it comes apart.  Wipe off the softened glue and the parts are as good as new.  Save a lot of re-making parts when some part of the assembly need re-work or replacement.

Very nice work Juergen. Well done on the wales. I look forward to following your build

Absolutely outstanding craftsmanship Karl.
It's a real treat to see your model

Extrem clean work as usual from you Karl

Your crow's nest looks very nice Ferit.
The way how you rounded the stripes is subscribed

On to the capping rails and sheer rail. This is the part which makes the kit really come alive in my opinion as it covers the last of the messy bits and makes the hull look complete.
The kit comes with a piece of extruded brass which is nicely shaped a a decorateve moulding. Which runs around the dge of the hull. It's perfectly good but there are two issues- the pedestals for the swivel either have th be cut to fit through is, or the brass cut, which I imagine will be difficult. Next there is only enough brass for the main capping rail. It leaves the foc'sle capping without the same treatment and also the quarterdeck rails. For consistency's sake I had a crack at making my own from timber. This is something a former MSW member did on a now lost build log so credit to them.
Basswood is about all I can lay my hands on at hobby stores around here. It takes shaping well but is quite soft so care is needed not to dent it.
 
The first step was to scribe a light centre line down the middle with callipers.

This was then filed out with a half round file. Gentle pressure only and the tip of the file should follow the existing groove.

 
Sand paper folded in half run down the centre helps smooth things out.

 
Because i had odd sized basswood the shaped edge was cut off thin enough for use. A small plane and sandpaper thinned w back edge down to the desired width. Sanding on all sides rounded the edges.
Comparison here with the brass part.

Hello,
 
after I put off my Triton build I started a new project. Now I want to build the 50-Gun Ship HMS Leopard 1790 (POB) ,1/64 scale
Therefor I bought the book The 50-Gun Ship from Rif Winfield. At this are the plans of the Leopard drawn by John McKay.
I don’t make many words about the build of the frames because that’s often described here on MSW.
 
Instead I show some photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Juergen
 

Hi Niklas and Adam, thanks for the kind words.
 
It's going on with the Main Wale. I done it in the same manner as John McKay is shown at his plans.
I made two templates at first because I must produce many equal pieces.

 
Also it must drawn the postion of the Main Wales to the Frames.

 
Thereafter began the agony

 
Here's the result

 
Juergen

Goose-neck Part 2
 
continuing on this picture does show the roller reefing that inspired my version.
 

 
the worm was held in place with two retainers that were filed up and bolted with 2x56 round headed machine screws, the shaft through the worm is 1/8th diameter filed square at each end, so the the reefing can happen from either side.
 

 

 

 
The part of the goose neck that is fitted to the mast was inspired by one from Cockwells web site .
 
The first step was to machine up the block to mate to the boom(this needed extensive fining to allow the boom to swing when I mated the two parts together) the top and bottom straps were silver soldered to the block this also annealed the bands.
 

 

 

 
I used this same technique for the base step band.
 
The soldered and formed piece. ready for clean up, .. files, emery paper , steel wool .
 

 
Final assembly
 

 

 
end of roller reefing
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Finished the parrals.
 
 
For large and more detail photos see also:
http://www.flickr.co...han_gokcay/sets
Best go into the set and choose slideshow or
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilhan_gokcay/sets/72157626433922489/detail/?page=47

Thanks very much Alexander.
 
Slowly but constant. Here's a new update.
I added the Channel Wale and planks between the Main Wale and the Channel Wale.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello Ferit,
 
I'm wondered that I didn't see any log from you. Now I know why. I admit that I didn't look to kit build logs during the time on MSW.
But I'll looking more often to kit builds in future.
 
It looks realy good your Berlin. But I see you are doing much scratch.

Hello,
 
after I put off my Triton build I started a new project. Now I want to build the 50-Gun Ship HMS Leopard 1790 (POB) ,1/64 scale
Therefor I bought the book The 50-Gun Ship from Rif Winfield. At this are the plans of the Leopard drawn by John McKay.
I don’t make many words about the build of the frames because that’s often described here on MSW.
 
Instead I show some photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Juergen
 

Thanks very much Alexander.
 
Slowly but constant. Here's a new update.
I added the Channel Wale and planks between the Main Wale and the Channel Wale.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks very much Alexander.
 
Slowly but constant. Here's a new update.
I added the Channel Wale and planks between the Main Wale and the Channel Wale.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks very much Alexander.
 
Slowly but constant. Here's a new update.
I added the Channel Wale and planks between the Main Wale and the Channel Wale.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Could you tell me the result please. It's very interesting for me-
 
And now to the idea from Mark
 
I sanded the Main Wales about days and following this I used black stain.
 
How shall I put it?
You are right Mark, it looks mutch better. Thank you, the effort paid off.

 
In fact it's much better to seen as at the photos.
 
And also I planked the Lower Counter

Thanks very much Alexander.
 
Slowly but constant. Here's a new update.
I added the Channel Wale and planks between the Main Wale and the Channel Wale.
 

 

 

 

 

 

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 147– Installing the Wheel 1
Posted 8/29/12
 
Its been a few weeks since the last update – a lot of summer chores had to get done.
 
The next major milestone is to get the quarterdeck framing finished back to the bulkhead that separates the captain’s quarters on the upper deck and to get the wheel and its ropes installed so the decking aft of that bulkhead along with the other work in the cabins can be completed. That part of the upper deck framing needs to be left open for the rigging of the steering gear..
 
The first picture shows the next five beams aft of the capstan installed
 
 

 
The carlings for the hatch coamings between the capstan and the wheel are also installed, as is one half of the simple upper deck partner for the mizzen mast. This has been bored for the steering rope but not yet for the mast. The rope is for the steering gear, which is one half rigged below the upper deck aft.
 
The next picture shows a closer view of this.
 
 

 
The starboard half of the mizzen step will be left off to allow visibility of the sheaves for the steering rope that are fitted right below it. The inauthentic plank endings in this picture will be covered by the captain’s cabin bulkhead. They had to be installed this way (and treenailed) so the beams above could be installed.
 
The wheel was made some time ago. The next picture shows a step in the modeling of the wheel support stanchions.
 

 
Stanchion patterns were pasted to a strip of boxwood in line with a centerline that had been marked (with the compass). The next picture shows the boring of the bearings in the top of the stanchions.
 
 

 
This sequence assured that the bearings would be centered on the strip. The stanchions were then cut out on the scroll saw. The next picture shows them glued together with a paper joint to permit their final shaping.
 
 

 
A short bit of dowel was placed between these parts in the bearing recesses to maintain the alignment for the final shaping.
 
The next picture shows the wheel mounted on the finished stanchions.
 
 

 
The wheel/stanchion assembly was glued to what will be the central deck plank. After this glue had set, two copper bolts were CA glued from the underside of the planking up into each stanchion for strength. The excess plank will be cut off later before this assembly is installed.
 
The next picture shows the assembly set on the deck beams.
 
 

 
Once this is installed the next adjacent planks will be slotted to take the steering rope. This cannot be done until the grating hatchways structure just forward of this are installed.
 
The next picture shows the coamings and head ledges for that structure being glued together.
 
 

 
Both these assemblies are still loose. The coaming structure will need to be finished, rounded up and have its gratings installed before final attachment. The plank under the wheel has been cut to size on its forward end, but still needs to be marked and cut on the aft end.
 
Stay tuned.
 
Ed

Could you tell me the result please. It's very interesting for me-
 
And now to the idea from Mark
 
I sanded the Main Wales about days and following this I used black stain.
 
How shall I put it?
You are right Mark, it looks mutch better. Thank you, the effort paid off.

 
In fact it's much better to seen as at the photos.
 
And also I planked the Lower Counter

Hello,
 
after I put off my Triton build I started a new project. Now I want to build the 50-Gun Ship HMS Leopard 1790 (POB) ,1/64 scale
Therefor I bought the book The 50-Gun Ship from Rif Winfield. At this are the plans of the Leopard drawn by John McKay.
I don’t make many words about the build of the frames because that’s often described here on MSW.
 
Instead I show some photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Juergen
 

Hi Niklas and Adam, thanks for the kind words.
 
It's going on with the Main Wale. I done it in the same manner as John McKay is shown at his plans.
I made two templates at first because I must produce many equal pieces.

 
Also it must drawn the postion of the Main Wales to the Frames.

 
Thereafter began the agony

 
Here's the result

 
Juergen

Could you tell me the result please. It's very interesting for me-
 
And now to the idea from Mark
 
I sanded the Main Wales about days and following this I used black stain.
 
How shall I put it?
You are right Mark, it looks mutch better. Thank you, the effort paid off.

 
In fact it's much better to seen as at the photos.
 
And also I planked the Lower Counter

Could you tell me the result please. It's very interesting for me-
 
And now to the idea from Mark
 
I sanded the Main Wales about days and following this I used black stain.
 
How shall I put it?
You are right Mark, it looks mutch better. Thank you, the effort paid off.

 
In fact it's much better to seen as at the photos.
 
And also I planked the Lower Counter

Thanks for the kind comment Johann, nice to see you also.
 
Do you know this one http://www.modellbau-leisten.de/ . I got some ledges last week and the quality was well.
 
I sanded one Main Wale today and used black stain from Clou. I don't got ebony stain on the qiuck.
It looks much better than the black paiting.