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Pat Lynch

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  1. Pat Lynch
    Moving along.....Next task was installing the power and control stuff - twin 600-size brushed motors (cheap) and controllers, radio and switches etc. Later, I also added a sound system with actual recording of the big petrol engines with start-up and linked to the throttle. With all the 'innards' fitted, The deck was framed and sheeted with 1.5mm ply. As per the prototype, the deck was planked diagonally as was the upper superstructure - a simple bit of work from 1.5mm ply. There are various hatches and companion way structures also added at this stage. The rows of depth charge racks around the rear deck were added to make sure they all looked ship-shape!🤔 A start was made on the many charges themselves - slices of a piece of correct diameter plastic tube. (old knitting needles actually). The vents, port-holes and other details shown are made from styrene sheet and tube. If anyone wants more detail, please ask! ps I mentioned earlier that this model was mostly built during the COVID epidemic some years ago - this is a speeded up description of the build because I like the nautical flavor of this forum 🙂 Pat
  2. Pat Lynch
    Yes Jim - it was a bit of a shock seeing her many miles inland near the Waitomo caves in NZ. Better than rotting away I suppose! Pat
  3. Pat Lynch
    The real Fairmile C launch was constructed from plywood frames and clad with 2 diagonal layers of timber. This seemed an ideal way to build the model as well! A set of drawings of the real ship were obtained from the UK and although the detail and scales were of variable quality, they were a good start for a 1/24 scale model - a length of around 1500mm. This scale would give plenty of scope for detail and would still fit in my Nissan Dualis wagon. The basic side view was drawn out and the keel cut from 6mm 7 ply birch. The frames were also sketched out using an old version of AUTOCAD and cut from 3mm ply and the whole lot assembled on a jig and basic stringers notched into the frames. The construction looked almost exactly like the real thing. When all was checked and sanded, the frame was inverted and remaining stringers fitted. Two diagonal layers of 2mm Basswood were fixed using medium CA with a bead of waterproof Titebond along the edges. After sanding to a nice finish, a second layer of diagonal Basswood was applied at 90 degrees to the first layer. While still on the jig, the two prop shafts were fitted, carefully aligned and epoxied in place. Now it was looking like a proper boat 🙂
  4. Pat Lynch
  5. Pat Lynch
    This model was conceived, researched and begun during COVID a few years ago and, wanting to share my experience, I'd like to post some photos and build notes for the benefit of others. The Fairmile launch was one of the first naval ships I had ever seen as a youngster when pointed out by my father during a visit to a celebration in New Zealand in the late 1940's. I'll post more details and photos as I dig them up from my "archives". Now to remember how to start a topic!
  6. Pat Lynch
    A temporary 'final' resting place in the music room. Now I can play my piano watched over by HMB Endeavour. She has been fitted with binnacles and swivel guns......now I need to make a less-rudimentary stand for her. Good to have completed a project 😎 Pat
  7. Pat Lynch
    There's a saying in scale model aircraft circles that is just as applicable here ....."a scale model is never finished".....mostly, one just stops adding details. That is certainly the case with my Endeavour. There are still many small changes, additions, corrections etc that I can do but I'm declaring my model "finished". If I get an urge to update her over time, that may also happen but now she needs a simple stand so HMB Endeavour can grace a small space inside the house 😁 I spent some time pondering the flags as I didnt want a flag sticking out square of the staff. So the originals were used and carefully folded and glued to hang limp. Maybe not everybody's cup of tea but satisfies me on a static model Many of the more accomplished builders on this forum will see bits that are missing, but my enthusiasm is slowly waning in direct inverse proportion to my next, very different 'boat' model. Thanks for all the help and support on this project - while it is not the first time I've built a ship model kit, I t the first one I've finished. The first one I ever got to adding the yards and running rigging! Big job now is to clean up the shop and get all the Endeavour left-over bits sorted and stowed away. Next? A working RC power boat that I remember well as a youngster here in New Zealand. But I need to draw my own plans....... Pat p.s. I just remembered the binnacle/compass cabinet. Drat 😐
  8. Pat Lynch
    Yet more pictures with (I think) almost all the rigging done 😁 It is not a model to be used as a reference as I have relied heavily on A.L. documentation which is severely lacking in many areas but it allows a reasonable model to be built without too much kit-bashing. A lot of guesswork, much muttering and plenty of imagination were needed to get the running rigging "roughly" ship-shape. Ropes were going nowhere, the main deck airspace criss-crossed with yard stays (they'd never have got a boat lifted over the side) etc made me re-think a few steps. But Milton Roth, R.C. Anderson, Charles Davis plus all the great photos on this forum gave me a very basic idea of how these wonderful vessels were built. Extraordinary stuff. My model is so full of faults and errors that I dont dare do any close-up photos........ 😎 Still to go are a few deck details - barrels, the console near the wheel with navigation stuff in it, LOTS of dummy ropes stowed around the decks and of course the flags. These seem a bit rigid but maybe OK when made to look hanging in folds........I may even finish by Christmas 😎 Pat
  9. Pat Lynch
    Just a progress report - no real exciting stuff. All the yards are now in place and the foremast remains to be fully rigged - mostly the running rigging. Then comes the major task of fabricating all the dummy looped ropes and fitting them over bitts and belaying pins etc.........still a way to go 😉 Pat
  10. Pat Lynch
    With Christmas fast approaching, I am reminding myself of my self - imposed target of a finish within 12 months of starting - still another two months to go but progress has been rapid! The speed of the build is dependent on a few factors, the biggest of which is my lack of understanding the rigging on an old ship. But I am learning! A.L. provides some "OK" drawings plus some not-that-useful photos. Helpful hints and instructions are almost non-existent. Thank goodness for Banyan, Dave Rowe, Cabbie and the others for their many photos which give me (usually) several variations to choose from! But once the spidery mass of shrouds and other 'stuff' starts to look complex, my heart gives a little joyous jump and I continue my task! What I've done is not always according to the book or the rules but the ship is looking like the real thing. As long as you don't look to hard 😉 I've just mounted the Mainmast yards including my first proper parrell. Now I get to sort the various lifts, hoists, stays and a myriad other mysterious nautical oddities. Then, only 3 yards to go........... A stinking hot day so Endeavour was moved outside for a few pictures..........Pat ps - not all model ship builders have tidy, organised work benches 😉
  11. Pat Lynch
    Thanks for the comments folks - I haven't properly quit model flying but ship/boat building involves much less stress than when flying is an expected part of it 😐 QUESTION: When sails are not being fitted to a model, what happens to all the running rigging that normally attaches to the sails? This must also happen on a real ship when sails are removed. The main spars have several blocks each side which seem to guide ropes from the bottom/side edge of the sail and then through central blocks and down to the deck. Please excuse the non-nautical description 😏 I've barely a clue what a clew is (or bunts, bowlines, sheets etc...) Thanks in advance, Pat ps - I noticed after close inspection of other models, that some of these lines have been 'knotted' at the the blocks on the yards and then run as usual - was this full-size practice?
  12. Pat Lynch
    A couple of pictures showing the ups and downs of my modelling! The Endeavor is slowly progressing mostly in spite of A.L.'s rigging instructions. There are lots of drawings showing the basics of the standing rigging but often not enough information as to how or where some ropes are fastened to on the deck. I have taken many liberties and done a lot of head-scratching but it will at least resemble the original at a small distance. It doesn't help that I had left off some of the blocks to guide the various fore-stays down to the deck where I am assuming they are fastened to some eye-bolts around the masts. Looks about right! I'm trying to leave myself plenty of room for ageing fingers - after the various stays between the masts, I plan to fit the spars followed by the back-stays out to the channels. That's the plan anyway 😉 The second off-topic picture is from some months ago proving that a Heinkel 51 rc model will not tolerate attempting to pass though a large pine tree - modelship building is MUCH more relaxing......😎 Pat ps - see my profile picture 😏
  13. Pat Lynch
    Great work Dashi - getting anywhere near the finishing line is a rare achievement on these ship model kits! (I know from bitter experience). Being able to follow your build, plus the work Pat, Dave and others, gives me hope that I'll overcome obstacles and finish mine too! Thanks for the many detail pictures and comments - it is all encouraging 😃 Many thanks for sharing! Pat
  14. Pat Lynch
    Thanks gents for the thumbs up 😎 Just another tiny step forward - I'd not realised just how much work there is on a yard spar! Also just how complex the running rigging is for the yards on the bow sprit. All part of the steep learning curve! I prepared all the bits that will be used making the yards - different sizes of 'eyes', lots of single blocks which I stained and tumbled in my very sophisticated machine. A plastic container with a lid, some 120 grit sand paper and a bolt through the pot to hold in the lathe chuck. I also tried throwing in a few steel nuts to help the cleaning up process. Worked a treat - even the fairly ordinary A.L. blocks look better! One of the spritsail yards was lashed in place just to give me the satisfaction - very important to feel happy with a complex project. I checked out all the running rigging to the sprit-sail's yards and right or wrong, they all have somewhere to go! Only 10 more yards to do............. Pat
  15. Pat Lynch
    I think it's very daring of you to get up so 'close and personal' Phil. At this tiny scale, nothing looks perfect does it! But I'm sure a metre or so back she looks magnificent 😎. A very ambitious project and great to follow. Pat
  16. Pat Lynch
    A very minimal post to ensure the forum I am still at work on the Endeavour! I've been away on a wonderful NZ train trip which took more than two weeks with lots of marvelous side-trips including the Tranzs-alpine trip. Great stuff. Sadly, at 75+ years, it takes almost as long to recuperate 😉 But, I have made all the various remaining spars (yards) and am almost ready to detail them as per A.S. plans. So, the deck is littered with half-built yard-arms! Pat
  17. Pat Lynch
    One small step for a man......... A minor milestone has been reached when the last (I think) of the standing rigging on the lower mast sections is done. Not perfectly, in fact even poorly in some places but I was happy to get here and happy to have learnt a lot on the way. The ratlines became easier - and in most cases, better executed, as I progressed. But I decided not to go back and improve what I've already done (particularly around the mizzen area) - I'd be rebuilding the whole thing 😐 Next stage will be to fit the upper mast sections and get the standing rigging done there. I'll leave the long back stays until the yards have been fitted to try and make more space for my 75 year old fingers 😉 A short break now while my wife and I go on a two week train trip from the North to the South of NZ with many stops and adventures along the way. Sadly this means I'll not be able to go and see the replica Endeavour as it joins the celebrations of European 'discovery' of NZ. Not a popular celebration with many Kiwis but I would have loved to visit the Endeavour....... Back soon, Pat
  18. Pat Lynch
    Lower Main done. After a few mistakes and frustrations, I can move to the lower foremast. Biggest hassle was the Futtock shrouds and the neatest way to secure them. The little hooks at the top were OK but the lower ends seem to take a turn around the futtock stave and are then seized to the shroud. Doing neat seizing in-situ seems quite difficult but the second side (starboard) started to look OK. I finished off the tiny seizings by passing the end back between the futtock and shroud plus a tiny drop of glue on the backside (out of sight!) Next time I'll try and do it neater! This is just a personal ramble about my faltering learning curve.......😏 Pat
  19. Pat Lynch
    After a bit of searching my browsing history, I found my source of the ratline gadget - thanks for the tip Johnny 😊 Pat
  20. Pat Lynch
    Thanks Pat- not my idea but a good one! Chris - if you are referring a few pictures back, they are test prod tips - any electronic shop should have them. They have a nice little spring hook to grip stuff😎 pat
  21. Pat Lynch
    More progress on a rainy day. Tying the ratlines is always a lengthy chore but while researching how others did it, I came across a simple jig to get the spacing even and parallel. A couple of wooden strips of the desired spacing and lined with some fine grade sandpaper could be clamped each side of the shrouds and provide a reference for each row of ratlines which can be tied to the shrouds and then gently pushed down against the jig and fixed in place with thin PVA after removing the jig. Only tool used were fine tweezers. I added a couple of 3mm dowels to make the jig easier to locate and clamp in place. The BIG bonus I found was that considerable force can be exerted on the shrouds while tightening the clove-hitches and end knots - it made the job a cinch 😎 I used 220 grade paper but may change to 800 as the coarser paper may scuff the shrouds if not careful. I still haven't perfected the method yet but I did about a dozen ratlines on the main mast in about 30 minutes! If I find the reference for the idea, I'll mention here. Someone on MSW I think. Thank you 😃 Pat
  22. Pat Lynch
    Experts - look the other way 😉 My faltering attempts at the main rigging is going OK but because I seem to find better ways to do the job as I go along, the end result is a little inconsistent. But then the replica has a few variables too. My biggest area of experimenting is the selection of 'rope'. I sourced a few different brands made by the various kit manufacturers (Mantua, A.L., Billings, Corel) and each has its ups and downs. I am also using Gutterman sewing thread - particularly the thin linen which is virtually 'hairless' but not very flexible at small scales. I am doing the lanyards on the port side with it (the off-white) and using Corel .25mm on the starboard. The shrouds are Mantua or Billings - both seemed much the same but needed a good feed of black wax. The Syren servo-matic is doing an OK job on serving the shrouds around the masts but I am cheating and only serving the top two or three shrouds 😊 - where they can be seen. Slow progress - about 3 days worth so far and about 1/2 way around the lower set of shrouds. Although I have built a ship model previously, it was unfinished (a common result) and a larger scale (1:48). Also, I didn't try to do fancy knots and other refinements. It all adds to the great experience ship modelling is....... As always, I have watched many helpful videos on Youtube and read many of the build threads here on MSW. Using two wire links to hold the upper dead eye in place while measuring the shrouds lengths is great - the two deadeyes stay in exactly the right relationship while the shroud is pulled taut and tack-glued to the block. Etc........ Pat ps sorry about the dust everywhere - I must make a simple dust cover.
  23. Pat Lynch
    I see what you mean about that mass of shrouds blocking working room! Pat
  24. Pat Lynch
    Good thing old ships had a little mast down the back for apprentice model ship builder to gain their skill on 😉 Having sorted my martingales from my futtocks, I have some early attempts to gain skills and techniques at shrouds, ratlines, futtock hooks, dead eyes etc etc......it is getting better as I go but I'll not replace the earlier bits despite their faults. Little things like remembering my way around clove hitches and how to get a simple single knot in the right place before tightening - easy now! The details may not be AOTS perfect - the plans are often quite wrong but I'm continuing to use them as a guide unless I can see the alternatives! Most of my details are gleaned by the great builds on this forum. Dave Rowe, Banyan and many others.......thanks folks 😎 Pat Pat
  25. Pat Lynch
    Thanks folks - always nice to reach a milestone - only the rigging to go. Only the rigging? what am I saying - maybe two tots of rum (not sure if Cook carried it............)

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