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Pat Lynch

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About Pat Lynch

  • Birthday 08/07/1944

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Zealand
  • Interests
    rc Scale model aircraft, musician (piano), art (painting), gardening, models of any kind!

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  1. Johnathon and Dashi - thanks for your interest and input- it all helps Pat
  2. Hi Mike - thanks for being daring enough to scratch-build the Beagle I had bought the AOTS and am slowly coming to terms with the nautical detail! A small thing I don't quite understand is the function of the hammock storage along the sides of the main deck. Were the crew's hammocks stored there for airing? (surely they would have got wet). Did the crew sleep on the upper deck? I am a bit unsure! Again, thanks for your build so far - it has given me some insight about an ambitious scratch build wa.......y down the track. Cheers, Pat
  3. Thanks Cabbie - this whole project is bordering on 'too fiddly' for my ageing fingers and eyesight I had a go at the cannons and am seeing a way to achieve what I need. The kit barrels and basic carriage work out OK but I'll replace the wheels with ones cut from 4mm walnut dowel. I'm still experimenting and think I'll just fit the heavy ropes that restrain the gun. It looks very small but is only a 4 lb gun and the replica shows them as quite tiny too. Watch this space ........ (not sure why !) Pat
  4. Back again - just a few small but time-consuming details done - the anchors were fitted and lashed to various posts up front. I studied all sorts of pictures but opted for something vaguely logical to secure the anchors. The A.L. instructions are of course, not helpful. But it looks OK (imho) I also made the various skylights and companion way covers - lots of variations and options so I did a mix and match. I found the .3 and .6mm birch ply very nice in this job - very fine grain and easy to work with. Next task are the four cannons. They must have been a very lightweight piece of gear - only a few pounds per shot? They seem small. Brass wheels were supplied but I'm using painted wood dowel - the real thing was wood so.......... After the cannons, there are many boats - up to four it seems. At least it's not as cluttered as the HMS Beagle that I'm studying the AOTS for. I might get enthused one day - smaller ship, bigger scale possible........who knows where it may lead 😊 Pat
  5. It's been quite a while since I posted - spent a few weeks lazing in the Fiji sun on a large cruising catamaran, swimming, snorkeling and generally being lazy - wonderful! Back to the Endeavour. While away, I have been reading a new book - the AOTS of the Beagle - a ship, along with Shackleton's Endurance, that appeal to me as models. It made me realise that the Endeavour I'm building is quite a long way from 'reality'- whatever that is. So, I have decided not to try and make the A.L. kit too difficult but continue to gather the experience and skills needed to do better next time! Make the odd change where it seems appropriate but follow the construction notes (difficult at best) for anything I don't understand. The arc of eye-bolts in the bow is a case in point - maybe it was how the collier was setup but is certainly not a feature of many other models I've seen. So be it! The anchor davits and anchors were almost next on my list and were only slightly modified. The brass wheels provided for the cannon were given the task of being pulleys in the davit ends. The blocks and tackle for raising the anchor to be secured will be added next. The anchor cable's permanent position will be decided later - it probably depends on what stage of a voyage a static ship is representing - cable laid out on the fore-deck if ready to drop anchor or all stowed away when at sea. So much to learn, so little time 😊 Pat
  6. I retrieved this model from stuff I'd packed some years ago when moving to New Zealand from Goulburn in Australia. Although I had an almost-completed HMS Bounty (which had been severely damaged) I needed something to 'keep my hand in' while moving house! the Roar Edge had always appealed to me as a model - simple, attractive and probably a great beginners model. However, after two house moves in three years, the little boat suffered somewhat with broken mast, rudder, rigging and a couple of protruding bits! The open hull was full of dust, webs, spiders and many small dead insects! Today I gave it a good clean out and reconnected the broken bits. It really only needs the yard, sail and associated rigging to finish it and since there doesn't appear to be a kit build log here on MSW I thought I'd share it. Not exciting but a fun little kit. As to what became of the Bounty lurking in the photo - our (now deceased) cat jumped THROUGH the rigged model while chasing a mouse on the piano I roughly re-attached the masts and ratlines and presented it to a friend before leaving Australia. It was a part-works kit with an open hull side - I don't know the manufacturer! For what it's worth.......Pat
  7. Thanks for the 'likes' folks The four pumps amidships puzzled me for a short while - I could find some parts in the bits boxes but bore no resemblance to the instructions - obviously the cast metal versions have replaced a rather clumsy wooden one that would need a lot of work. I could find no references to these type of main pumps online or in my model books so I just made them in a way I assumed were expected. But, I tried a few new techniques to make things easier down the track. Firstly getting the cast metal to accept paint readily. After a thorough filing to remove mould lines, a wire brushing and a scrub with isopropyl alcohol, they were given several VERY light coats of Rustoleum etch-primer. Then the final colour coat adhered well. The handle, because I wasn't sure if it was wood or iron, I gave it a quick dunk in Brass Black metal finish. Perfect A 1mm copper rivet secured the handle and a blackened eye-bolt made a rudimentary plunger to the stuff lower down. I don't have the Endeavour AOTS so it will have to do. Interestingly, the replica ship doesn't seem to have even dummy pumps. That space is taken by what looks like air vents (to the engines?) Which pump parts are wood or iron! If anyone can advise, thanks The pumps are not glued in place yet as I read that they could make the rigging harder later on........we'll see! I am procrastinating as to how the various companion-ways and skylight will be made - certainly different than the kit. Thanks goodness for all the kind folk who logged their own builds of this ship. Pat A rudimentary pump from the kit
  8. Thanks for the comments folks - yes I love the seemingly rapid day-to-day progress. I guess that will slow down when the rigging starts I decided to rig the rudder tiller and prepped a few of the smallest blocks - a light sanding, a coat of grain filler and a coat of walnut stain - they could be better but wasn't sure how much time to spend on them. I'm getting myself psyched up for rigging one of these days so hopefully things will be sorted by then! While rummaging around in a box of 'stuff', I found a treasure trove of wire! esp. the black-coated 24 swg steel. Perfect for strops on the little blocks. Apart from using them back-to-front (I think) they will work OK. The black beading thread is only to checkout the run of the rope. The horrible L.A. supplied 'rope' is probably OK when waxed - I'll try it tomorrow. The blocks all seem a bit over-scale but with my 75 year old eyesight, I'm glad they're not smaller btw, the design of the goose-neck is based on the replica. Pat
  9. Every day or two - some more bits This basic fitting out is my favourite part of the deal. The frames that hold the spare spars, ship's boats etc were built up to look vaguely like the replica with curved and capped ends. Plus the capstan and the wheel were tidied up and fitted. The wheel was a bit chunky compared with the replica but it cleaned up OK. A bit of re-touching can be done later. I'll tackle the rudder linkage as my first use of rigging materials on this model which raises a question - does anyone use the rigging thread that comes with these kits? It seems a bit hairy and of rather poor quality. I have some beading thread that looks superb but not in the larger sizes. Banyan, ny good suppliers in Oz? Otherwise I guess a USA supplier can be found...... I cleaned up the wheel in the lathe - I was going to paint some brass décor but the replica seems to be all varnished wood so I left it at that Pat
  10. A few odds and ends done - as usual it is a mix between the kit, a few drawings (ex AOTS?) that I have found on the net, plus other's builds and of course, the replica! Add to that my own interpretation and it will be different from everybody else's The rectangular plates at the base of each mast don't show on the kit but are present on many models - are they flat iron? I made mine from 1/64" birch ply. Gratings are only being used in a couple of places - mainly the main hatch. I'll make up wooden structures and covers for the rest. This is the part of a build I really enjoy - doing small sections at a time. Heaps f fun on cold winter nights! Pat
  11. I'm reasonably happy with the windlass (lots of errors to remember for next time ) and so I charged on to the ships bell and its mounting. I wasn't keen on the supplied lintel so made a slightly more 'wooden' looking item from kit scraps using the replica as a guide. Some simplification was made but it gives a rough idea of 'a' real thing. Due to lack of observations skills and how my model was built, I made the belaying pin racks straight - not curved! Smack on the wrist for me........but at least they are there, unlike the kit plans. I was amazed that at this late stage I realised the Endeavour seems to use only a few belaying pins for the running rigging. Most 'ropes' are apparently tied off around the heavy railings - and I'd bought a bunch of tiny A.L. pins as I didn't see any in the kit! Another slap on the wrist. I haven't made the windlass pawls yet but will model them on the replica - just short bits of 1mm square stuff with dummy hinges. Well, that's the current thinking. The metal cleats provided seemed far too large at this scale so I filed about 5mm off the length and thinned them down somewhat. Still a bit big but more acceptable - only a couple of dozen more to do! Pat ps. I just realised the cleats should be brown, not black........
  12. Thanks Pat. At last - some structure on the deck. Not quite finished yet but the windlass needed a bit of work and will be OK when I've tidied it up a bit. The original kit parts were used except for the forward braces which should have been the same thickness as the windlass bearing bits. The drum was drilled through in the lathe and then reassembled after shaping and painting. I'll rough up the winding drum a bit to show some wear as shown on the replica. I'm going to use a mixture of the replica style pawls but only two of them! Just to be different! The square holes were easy with a 1/16" drill and a tiny square file. Time for a break! Pat PS - I seem to have got the pictures back to front. Apologies!
  13. Thanks Pat - I just spent an hour or so perusing your Victoria thread - lots of hints and tips to keep me on my toes! It's great to reach a goal or benchmark - but now the channels, lower deadeyes and their associated hardware are done. Not without many, many errors and mistakes but that is part of the learning curve. Biggest lesson is that I should have drawn or found a reliable drawing of the hull to get the placements of parts where they should have been So the main channels are a little too far forward (or the mast rearward), the chains and their anchoring plates are too far south - etc etc....... Like others, I had chains anchoring in the middle of hatches etc. I have since found a scale drawing on the 'net that can guide me in the future. It is probably an illicit copy (looks Polish) so wont show it here. Next time I'll get stuff right. The dead-eyes and associated bits are not accurate but look a lot better than the A.L. kit parts. After painting with dark grey Tamiya acrylic, the new bits were given a very light dusting with graphite dust with a soft brush - just enough to give a little bit of definition to the painted parts. And now, something completely different - staring on the deck fittings. Pat
  14. Hi Pat - I read through your scratch build and, as expected, have seen enough new ideas and techniques to make my head spin! A great and unusual subject. Cheers, Pat
  15. Making mistakes is the best way to learn - I've made heaps and am still very much a beginner Do you have a photo of what the completed model will look like? The deck planking looks interesting! Pat

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