modeller_masa
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Popeye the sailor // I would say that the Robotime chose level of completion instead of same scale and unity. Their series of doll house have different scales, but the each model's design sense is very attractive. It is bad that I can't make one big doll house by putting together them, but great for sole present. The reason I don't want to touch a structure thing is that one of my close relative is a famous retired architecture professor. If I make a building model, his pupils will laugh at low level of reality. It feels like checking with a retired ship carpenter about my model ship. Fortunately, he really loves my wooden model ship. Lou // I've already replaced most of my book to digital scanned books for same reason. I want more docks to build another ship.
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The LED assembly part is not polished and easily breakable. Someone who uploaded walkthrough movie on the Youtube skipped or modified the LED part to less complex structure such as 1 LED lamp instead of 4 LED lamps. The other parts are super easy and flawless like the Bandai's Gundam models. I would say that the LED light should have made the kit 100 times better!
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Thanks for your comment, Yves. I couldn't close my eyes when I first saw this kit. I hope the Robotime will make better doll house kit in the near future.
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That article made me to buy this kit. I made my kit for the past week to get a rest. I spent approx. 12 hours. Overall, this is a very good kit unlike most of china cheap goods. I would say that this company has very talented people like the Trumpet or Meng. Unfortunately, the LED parts is gone while I was finishing assembly. The reason of LED fail was an insufficient assembly guidance and inaccurate manual like most wooden model ship kit does. That's an only issue of this kit. Almost perfect! Now it's a time to go back to the priority project...
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Thanks, popeye. The roof part determines 90% of this kit's charming point.
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Thanks for your comment, Egilman. I should recreate myself for a while. A good result is residue of enjoying mind.
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I made a new jig for same height adjustment. Much easier than before. Very slow work. I already gave up finishing on time.
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The AL's the last legacy! Thank you for uploading.
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I replaced paper chimneys to MDF blocks. However, When I tried to apply them... I found that the angle is different due to my new MDF structure. Tomorrow, I'll cut the roof simply, and place the cube chimney on it. The balsa reinforced ridge is flexible for this kind of job. By the way, you may be interested in the blue and green 4.5 strips. It is a distance between roof tiles. I calculated the number from manual, and... It is verified. I made the paper sticker rulers using powerpoint and laser printer. Due to a MDF structure, I had to make new roof ground. (Check the orange cardboard.) The ruler sticker will help me to draw guide lines with masking tape.
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This is really challeging issue. To get the best result, I tied tiles together at corner. This method took TWO HOURS to do this picture only. I simplified the first method a little bit as you see. The second method took ONE HOUR to do same amount of part. Still slow , but the quality is similar. The third method that manual explained may take about 10~20 minutes to do same amount of work. However, it is not beautiful. In reality, The first method is more like a real arlington row, but the block's scale is too big. (1/18~1/24) For this Ho scale (1/87) kit, The third method is more like realistic at distant view although the roof tiles are too big. I have no time, but I don't want to lower quality...
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That's a point. I'll give a finished kit to someone this week. The person doesn't have knowledge of modelling hobby, and usually likes a neat and clean things like many common people. I would say that the person won't like weathered model, and it is one of the reason I made a GLOSSY acrylic base and case. My minimum goal is a picture on an original package. If I didn't have a due date, (Actually, the birthday was last week...) I would have added drain pipes and terrains just like your picture.
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I tried to attach a thermal transfer paper on acrylic panel... Failed. Looking for the other ways. The most famous and best solutions cost a lot. (over $30) Finished to build a bottom of roof . Started to attach roof tiles... Why didn't I use a masking tape? It works like a superman. I thought the roof tiles are better than wall blocks. NO. Every tiles are not SQUARE. I have to sand them all... Phew. Also, the size of the tiles are super different that makes ugly pattern. I decided to make a jig that produces exact same parts. After thousands of seconds... I made a simple jig for adjusting length of tiles to 10.0mm simultaneously. Adjusting method is a screw bolt. Attached UHMW tapes to lower friction. Works fantastic! I should have made the jig when I started!
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After 4 days, I finally finished polishing work. The wall is done. I used a cheap multi-use water based matte varnish. The stone really absorbs water quickly, so the brushing a varnish was smooth work. I satisfy the result of the varnish. This will be a final showcase. I already received acrylic panels for case asembly, and I'll paste the texts on the transparent front window using transfer paper. I'm testing the two kind of transfer paper to get the best result (water based transfer paper and thermal heat transfer paper)
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The wall is almost done. Making the balsa block ridges was easy task thanks to a mini belt sander, but the placing a roof was really time consuming hard work. I'll go to a roof after more tuning - filling the gaps and polishing edges. Three days left, but i'll keep going on. A new due date is a next week.
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If you know how to use a milling machine, I recommend to buy cheap Chinese CNC machine with digital controller at $100. You can move the drill bit by 0.01mm to X, Y, and Z axis.
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Passed the test. Great result. Now it looks like 13th century building to compare with the yesterday's wreckage. If you pay more time for sanding, it will be a 21th century modern style building. There is a warning point. The modeling paste dries quickly, but it tends to be... gummy. It seems to be a solid rock and very tight, but it can be easily removed by sharp knife. When you remove the rubber film without care... it will bite the nearby stones like the upper picture. This is my methodology. Just sand it. Don't try to remove the film with knife easily. Hard work will make looking better. Don't spread it. Fill the crack only. It can be a kind of paint, but it is very weak paint for long period of time. Just use it to fill cracks.
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This is the most important part of my project. I didn't pay attention to the gap between blocks. The result after sanding is catastrophic, but I wasn't disappointed because it is part of my plan. Which one will save more time? Polishing each blocks? or filling the gaps? To get the answer, I executed my plan that using acrylic modeling paste with block dusts. The color is ok, viscosity is ok, and the drying speed is a bit fast, but better than mixing with PVA glue. It seems promising after filling the gaps and broken edge blocks, but it's not solid answer yet. I'll slightly sand the excessive pastes and check the final result tomorrow.
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Yes. The Chinese sellers moved to their country's flea market from the middle of 2010s. At first, they increased the price on the Ebay, and then removed listings. The Ebay still offer much better customer protection, but I don't use it anymore when I purchase chinese cheap items. Of course, I'm always aware of a chance of loss money at Aliexpress.
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Although the Aliexpress removed some pirate items such as ZHL ships this year, there are many similar items that don't have enough quality original has. I also ordered another belt sander at first, and then cancelled it soon due to bad feedbacks. This is one of the caution points when you purchase something from the biggest Chinese store. - Find the best, not the cheapest item on the list. All the items may not be same. Some cheap items can be a lower quality item that couldn't pass QC or copied item by the other shops. - Read feedbacks carefully. If no feedback, avoid the item if you can. - Buy the reliable item as someone recommended. However, don't estimate that the seller sell the same item in the next time. - Be patient. the shipping speed from them is always terribly slow before and after COVID-19. It will take 2~3 months. You can cancel it after 3 months.
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Oops. I turned off a notification setting. Thank you for many replies! After I read replies, I gained enough confidence and got much clearer plan to replace broken masts. Thanks again to your advices!
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Wow, the page went to 2 page. I didn't notice your comments. Sorry. Popeye the sailor : Exactly. But, I think I didn't need to care about leveling if I drew horizontal lines on the MDF. If I used the original cardboard paper, the leveling would have been 100 times easier than now. I should have to draw the lines when I made CNC MDFs. mtaylor : Here is the link I ordered. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33014864680.html?spm=2114.13010708.0.0.60d44c4dmqrYLv In your case, the type 6 is the best one. (Type 1~3 : 15mm width, Type 4~6 : 25mm width) If you choose the 25mm belt sander, you can purchase additional 25mm width sanding belts from here. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000510159483.html?spm=2114.13010708.0.0.60d44c4dmqrYLv Also, I recommend you to buy this speed controller. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32945884969.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.67964c4dyI7vVg This one makes the mini belt sander perfect. When I tested it with the sander, I was able to slow down the speed to make it less aggressive and more slience. I think the sander with this speed controller will be very useful for my next wooden model ship project.
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I fixed them. All things are connected, so I had to finish rest of wall parts to fix it. By the way, I have only a few days until the birthday. No time to rest and sleep. The walls are almost done (90%), but placing a rooftop takes lots of time to fit tightly. The wood blocks are balsa wood. I'm running out of sanding paper.
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Hello. I have a picky question about lead free soldering. Today, I purchased a Revell 1:450 HMS Victory. Unfortunately, the masts in the kit are broken due to under 1.00mm thickness. I want to replace them to brass rod with soldering. The only thing I worry about soldering is a lead corrosion. https://www.navsea.navy.mil/Home/Warfare-Centers/NSWC-Carderock/Resources/Curator-of-Navy-Ship-Models/Lead-Corrosion-in-Exhibition-Ship-Models/ According to the NAVSEA, the lead corrosion is caused by lead parts. I have soldeing station and have experiences on lead free solderding. However, when I checked the compositions of the "lead free wire', I found that the wire has a very tiny lead. http://www.almit.com/dloads/Specs/leadfree/spec_kr19sh lfm48.pdf There is 0.09% of lead in the 'lead free' wire. This is a SAC (Sn, Ag, Cu) solder wire. Do you think the 0.09% of lead component will cause a lead corrosion in the future? Do you think it is considerably or strictly ok for 'Museum grade model'? I want to use the solder wire in the future if it is ok. It is scary to handle torch for silver soldering. If it is not a 'proven' issue, I'll wait for a conclusion. Thank you for reading.
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Sorry about late post. I was been busy with care of child. When I finished the first chimney and tried to place the first roof, I realized that the tiles don't maintain level! The biggest reason is that I made the part at side direction. (Couldn't check out the level with my eyes.) Also, I became careless after long time same work. Fixing the trouble was really horrible. It is super sturdy, and not possible removing blocks without breaking it. I used brush with water and art knife. Fortunately, I was able to remove the wrong blocks roughly without structural destruction. I don't want to imagine if I didn't use the MDF inner skeleton instead of original paper cardboard.... If you have same problem, I would recommend to bash the part with hammer, and buy additional blocks. 🙂 Most of removed tiles are not usable... It is a kind of boring job, but needs great attention on leveling each stage for the finest result. Lesson 256.
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WHAT? 1/10 ? ARE YOU KIDDING?! By the way, no Korean will go to the museum by historical reason... The company or the artist is looking for investors. If everything goes well, he will sell the full kit to western area inlcuding the US and Europe. As you expected, we Korean don't have enough market for hobby, so he will sell it to Korean by custom order unlike yours. 😂 I think you should wait for a long time until the kit is completed. (I don't know him personally, so it is up to you to send him an e-mail directly. The e-mail address is in the link.) This gun part is made by 3D printer and resins. He said that he will use several manufacturing methods for each parts to lower the final price.
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