modeller_masa

(source : https://mmzone.co.kr:40004/mms_tool/mt_view.php?mms_db_name=mmz_media&no=5913 ) One of South Korea hobby company is designing a 1/35 fletcher class destroyer model. This prototype is a part of the ship, and the price of this gun is 90,000 won which is equivalent to $73.44. I have no space to display it...

Thank popeye worrying about our family. The answer is no. A few days ago, I've read about post that grandfa was looking for good basic wooden model ship kit for working together with his grandchild. The post made me to think about the best kit for family-cooperation work. In my opinion, this easy and simple stone block construction kit is much more friendlier than conventional wooden model ship kit for kindergarten students. Wooden model ship is relatively complex, and use various and dangerous tools for preschoolers. However, this kit requires only PVA glues and sanding sticks when parents or grand parents take charge of making blocks with that mini belt sander machine. Of course, I don't say this is the best kit for both of parents and children. I just compared this kit with wooden model ship kit only . Probably, the best kit for cooperation with preschoolers should be the Lego or plastic kits for juniors. I don't want to expand discussion to that, so I conclude it like this. "When you consider cooperation with your children, this stone model kit is relatively safer than making wooden model ship kit. Also, you won't need time to educate children how to use knives and motor tools properly."

Thank Mark. If I worn about the virus more explicitly from my experiences a month ago, could it help people in this forum? What I can say now is that you should wear a facemask or scarf when talk with any people out of your house, and stay away from people who don't equip any protective gears. It is a valid method proved by many cases. The only problem is that many countries doesn't have enough masks for people and doctors. It is the biggest reason some governments don't recommend it, and only time with more product lines will solve it. I hope you are well, and hope this pandemic will come to an end very soon. It is not fun that hobbies I can enjoy became only one.

Hello. Today is the last day of march. It's been busy days, so I had no chance to touch the stones. My parents came back from the US after a month of journey last week. I planned a schedule to move them from airport to home safely. It was so detailed like a military operation. We used a private car instead of public transportation, and we wore face masks in a car and nobody didn't take off it until we arrived at home. 😷 Now my parents are doing self isolation. It's not regulated by government because they didn't have any explicit symptoms when they passed quarantine office. However, the COVID-19 is really good at hiding. Therefore, they won't go outside for two weeks voluntarily. For the self isolation, I've already purchased and filled storages with lots of frozen foods and a bundle of toilet paper. Because of the reason, I'm doing my parent's errands and delivering fresh foods to in front of door. (I don't go indoors.) Fortunately, they said that they have no symptoms such as fever or cough yet. Anyway, The mini belt sander proved its usability. I was able to sand 360 blocks in an hour. Honestly, it was not a fun job. I spent 2 hours and accomplished about 15% of all work of wall. I stopped today's work earlier than before because of lack of blocks. The new process is several times faster than previous process, but it also consumes several times more polished blocks at once. If you have will to make this kind of stone kit with your tiny children, you should distribute tasks into two parts. When you sand tons of blocks tediously, your children will ask for more blocks with a joyful scream. 😂

Day 6... Approx 40% of wall completed. (4~5 hours) I bought some tools for the next process. Theses are niddle piles. I also bought mini belt sander to optimize sanding work. This is really small and tiny belt sander. 120 x 100 x 150mm. It uses 775 RC motor. The motor speed is variable, but it is controlled by power adapter as most of chinese cheap tool does. The structure is too simple, so I don't worry about quality of it. It is a durable piece of steel. I attached 120 sandpaper belt. I was scared by huge noise and too fast speed at the lowest setting. It sounds like a band saw. I finished installation. After some trials, I concluded that this is a must have item for sanding blocks! I used to spent 10 seconds to pick up neat block ready for gluing. However, if I couldn't find neat block and had to sand askewed blocks, I had to spend 60 seconds to sand the block. This machine makes perfect cuboid at 5 seconds! It will really save my time and increase productivity dramatically! The mini belt sander's price is $41.83 including shipping cost. It uses 330mm x 25mm sanding belt. Here are downsides. - No dust removal system. It scatters stone chips everywhere. It is the reason I use it just under air duct. - Noisy. However, if you use it just under ventilation duct, the exhaust sound will exceed the noise from the belt sander. - Default minimum speed is too fast. You may need PWM speed controller to get lower noise and suitable sanding speed. - The edge of steel is very sharp. It cut my finger slightly. I highly recommend to sand sharp edges before use. I hope the remaining half side will be done faster than now... 🤪

In case of special contract such as license between a book writer and an owner of a ship, it can be a problem indirectly. It is common when it is a commercial building by famous architecturer. In the US, werk der baukunst was established in 1990. Also, license between model kit maker and original maker is very common like gun and car models. However, they are 18~19th century ships. You don't need to get any permission from Queen Victoria.

Thank you for comments. Posting progress is not an entire reason I build, but your interests definitely accelerate my work. I've never been in Europe before. I added the Bibury to my bucket list for tour to Europe sometime. This 'masonry' work is completely different from wooden model ship work in my opinion. It doesn't need deep and various knowledge about each parts. The most important thing of this kit is patience with the greatest care for each blocks. It feels like a meditation. 🙂 It is very flat work and takes lots of time, but very new experience for me and would have made me ease if I don't have due date. In addition, this kit's price per time is exceptional! Maybe it is the best kit when you are in a shelter and want to waste time. 😉

Day 3, 4, and 5... approx. 20% of wall completed. (6~7 hours) I'm pretty sure that I can finish entire kit at the end of this month if I don't sleep and eat.

Wow... I can't believe she was 6 years old when started. Her way of using sander and power tools is very skilled. Probably I have too underestimated children's ability. It is time to change from gifting plastic kits to wooden model kit!

I've never seen such detailed and comprehensive review. Thank you.

Day 2. I made a pre-made pillar because of too narrow space. This way is a lot easier. Well... I spent 3 hours today, and not a big difference... I calculated total amount of work by surface area. The total surface area of wall is approx. 1,800㎠, and these are my work area per day. Day 1 - 55㎠ (3.1%) Day 2 - 58㎠ (3.2%), 3 hours spent. Based on my calculation... I need 30 days or 90 hours for completing the wall only. ...... 🤪

Wow. The giant's hand is really big.

That's the exact same reaction when I saw this kind of kit. If you want to build one of the Aedes ars kit, I highly recommend you to equip these devices. (1) Good ventilation system. Tons of sanding works are waiting, pile of stone dust will make your hand pale. (2) Any kind of belt sander, disc sander or electric sander. The stone blocks are not perfect cubics. You need to adjust each blocks one by one. I use a dremel 3000 with 2 inch sanding disk bit.

I expected the kit has kind of tar glue which has volume, but the bond was just a regular PVA glue. Of course, the titebond is much better than this. I have to use modeling paste to fill gaps between blocks later. I didn't want to sort blocks, but sorted some blocks to make a kit nice. The center is regular whity blocks, and the right is more pinky blocks. I laid the pinky blocks on the bottom of wall. The upper blocks will be whity one. From here, everything is pretty much repeatitive work. Sanding, gluing, laying, and sanding again. I added some detailed on windows and doors because manual's example is too boring. I made two kind of walnut strips. (1.0 x 2.4mm, 1.5 x 4.8mm) The day 1 finished. I hope I finish the walls within a week. I can't finish all in a week. It is pretty much boring job more than I expected. However, if you are interested in carving work, you will find plenty of attractive spots for additional details such as window sill.

Thank you for advice, Mark. This is the second project I'm digging in. The first project was a La Recouvrance from last year. The first project is locked down due to technical barrier. I packed the hull and won't open it until I solve issues regarding metal cored mast. The next project will be the half-hull planking kit, and I wont't start it before I finish this kit and get a rest.

MDF is the best for making jigs. When I tried to make a rectangle hole, I realized that it is almost impossible by hand. Therefore, I had to cut it by CNC again. Nice and sharp cut. I decided to use CA for permanent fixation. There are some reasons that I used acrylic panel and high glossy film coated MDF. I gave up some of features because...... um... because of lots of reasons. One of my plan was LED light. I had to determine which one is my main hobby. My choice is wooden model ship rather than construction model. Therefore, I decided to skip many ideas I intended at first. I decided to run fast, so I skipped some details that may hurt level of completion. I don't like diorama. I decided to delete surroundings, and replaced the hill terrain to the transparent floor. Ok. Finally the stone work. I need to make some standards to make the block wall looks nice. Unfortunately, all of the blocks are inconsistent on size and color. If I sort 5,500 pieces of blocks properly, then I will be able to get the best result. However, there is more important thing I really want to do now. I received the half-hull planking kit from the NRG! I really want to go to the kit, so I'll finish this stone kit ASAP regardless of quality!

Don't forget the alex snodgrass' adjustment method! When I was discouraged by the $139 cheapest bandsaw, his method gave a new life to my band saw, and I was able to do resawing 90mm cherry woodsheet properly by the troublesome band saw! However, I definitely recommend you to buy 14 inch bandsaw if you need serious resawing work as someone said above.

This is the first parts using CNC machine. After several trials and errors, I decided to make the spaces of windows and doors. When I tried to trace the windows, I realized that I need OHP film and I don't have it. The thickness of the cardboard is about 0.50mm, so I applied the depth to CAD file. The first part is done. Not everything is perfect, but acceptable level of error. If I made rails at the edges of bottom plate, assembly would have been a lot easier than I did. I made birch plywood blocks to support them. I didn't know I'm out of balsa wood. I ordered new balsa for the next ship. Mass production! From House 4 to 10. It is normal that the door trims poked up due to a thickness of MDF. While I was testing the roof parts, I found that I need to cut more than the plan designated. The bottom side of R3a is designed to cut, but I cut more than it like the bottom of the R4a. Works perfectly. All done. it is a front side or street side. Back side or garden side. I decided to use original cardboard roofs. It is much more difficult to convert them to MDF because of the thickness of MDF. The base plate is a film coated MDF. I won't use it because it is a spare part for the next process. The next process is a making display cabinet. I bought 5mm dark tinted transparent acryl plate and 18mm black high glossy film coated MDF to make the bottom of display cabinet. I'll do plaster work on it directly. The stone work won't start in the next post.

Hello, Doug. Welcome to MSW. I'm a newbie like you, so my advice may not be helpful for your case. The core contents of this forum is centered on wooden model ship among the 18~19th century ship of the line. Therefore, this board which covers plastic models may help your work. Plastic model kits : https://modelshipworld.com/forum/26-plastic-model-kits/ Also, you can try a liquid masking sol instead of masking tape. It is more tangible and easy to cover bumpy surface.

A hawk will hunt your duck if you launch it on river.

https://www.amazon.com/s?i=aps&k=aedes ars&ref=nb_sb_noss&url=search-alias%3Daps Here is the link. The price is usually from $25 to $99. Please check the full catalog from the manufacturer's site. Only a few of them looks good in my opinion. I'm almost done to make the MDF bones. I may upload the next progress today.

Confirmed the first source. He is running a hobbyshop in South Korea. ( https://hobbyall.co.kr/ ) He opened me an information about future import kits in April. 1. Caldercraft - HMS Victory 1:72 - HMS Agamemnon - HMS Snake - HMS Cruiser - HMS Diana 2. Victory Models - Revenge 1577 - Mercury russ. Brigg - HMS Pegasus - HMS Vanguard - HMS Fly - HM Granado 3. Amati - Bireme griech It is the first time SK hobby shops sell wooden model ship kits except from the AL! Also, the Model Shipways, Constructo, Mamoli, Billing boat kits will come after these kits. Moreover, he has more plan to expand import lineup widely. Finally people in SK will know that the wood ship maker is not the only one. I hope it becomes a singularity for SK modellers.

OMG... Is it true? I planned to follow the tracing lines of the stones precisely... To fit the lines, I was making some flatten jig with MDFs, and will cement the gap with modeling paste and white acrylic paints. Yes. The realism is one of my goal. Some youtubers used CA glue with huge gap between blocks, and it looks really... not nice. This is the only part I'll use CNC machine. It's not that difficult job to make me discouraged. I can't make supports like you because it seems difficult to me. Although I'm a picky guy obsesses over a right angle, my handcraft skill is not good to make a right angle. Therefore, I use the computer machine that cut the MDF precisely for me. Please consider it as a beginner's overaction. I really appreciate your advices, and my track will line your route soon.

Some base parts are bigger than my CNC coverage, so I copied the line with carbon paper and gimlet. The base parts are easily done. The next is inner bones of each houses. It is a House 1. I had to consider a thickness of the 3mm MDF. I'll draw block guide lines on it with carbon paper. However, not everything ran smooth. The real problem is due to an inaccurate original cardboard itself. The plan's cutting lines are not fairly accurate, the scales of each of printings are slightly different, and each of rectangles' corner is not perfect right angle. There are always 0.2~0.3mm of margins or errors. I can't bunden the fatal errors. I'll fix all of the plan and make them all very sharpened right angle. Oh, you may not need to consider these errors if you use the flexible cardboard instead of thick MDF. -------- OOPS. I just found that the MDF's thickness is not 3mm, but 2.80mm which can cause the serious differences. I may not need to fix all of the plans. I should have check all of materials precisely...

Thanks for the advice, Ekis! The tip'll reduce my work. I'll follow your fantastic middle age castle I dreamed. 😁