modeller_masa

I bought each kit for specific themes. I'm not sure all the results will satisfy Old Collingwood's favour, but you can believe that they will be slightly unique models. I'm going to concentrate on late homeworks such as La Recouvrance, stone house, and train models for the rest of year. I need to clear my dirty workshop before adding new project. 😂

Your pleasure is my happiness, Old Collingwood! I'm also really appreciated to Mark, Javlin, and everyone who watched and enjoyed my project!

Thanks, Egilman! I was so happy when I was taking a picture. 📷

It's done. It looks like a temple of modeller when turns off the light, or modern museum when turns on. Details are not outstanding, but I'm satisfied with overall visual. Thank you for following my rough work. Secured, contained, protected.

I printed out new catchphrases. Masking and painting was hard lesson. I may need different approach in the next time. Looks not bad. 😎 I decided to add some focussers. It is not like a spotlight, but better than nothing. For the side panels, all the LEDs are too straight and strong. I need diffuser, but distance is not enough. I made some reflector + diffuser. Better than past, but not great. It has single mirror, and two mirrors should have had better result. I may upgrade them in the next time. All light is white! The resistances are cheat support. 🤪 The bottom layer of cabinet is combination of 1.5T mirror acrylic and MDF. I put stand from Airfix which is still compatible with original FROG airplanes. Ouch, I placed the stand in wrong place... I'll change it someday. The last part is top cover and back door. I won't bond them because of maintenance issue and potential of future upgrade. I'll paint them tonight and finish everything tomorrow. 😄

Finished a spaghetti like circuit. 🤪 It works... unbelievable! 😱 Next and final job is 3d printing transparency neon signs.

I'm making a LED case. https://www.vectis.co.uk/lot/frog-penguin-series-the-blackburn-shark_563129 Its color theme is based on the original box design, https://www.pamono.eu/20th-century-english-shop-display-cabinet-promoting-selected-sponges-1920s and cabinet design is based on the 1920s display cabinet. I wanted a curved cabinet design like a jukebox, but it should have taken time more than this.

Roger // Thanks for the comment. I'll pay attention to the case more. Egilman // I've never seen any real fabric wing with silver dope in South Korea just like middle age sailing boat. I hope to see the old biplanes if I have a chance. I applied one coat of Holbein acrylic ink - pearl silver color with vallejo gloss varnish.

I just finished an airplane. I didn't decide case design yet... Both wood and acryil works take a lot of money and time.

Most parts are fine or bit annoying, but not a real big problem. This was really huge issue. It almost killed me... I would have given up if this last approach was failed. NOT BAD. NOT BAD. The main issue is that length of the rods are not correct. I would say that they are designed to folding position. I had to cut them a lot.

Popeye // I didn't know about the water slide decal issue because of the frequent use on plastic kits. This kit also have a decal sheet and it looks fine, and I'll build my own water slide decal to emulate the 1936 original model plane. I want to finish it quick and simple, so I won't use stencil technique. This kit has embossed rivets and panel lines unlike modern engraved panel lines. It is one of reasons I don't retouch this kit heavily unlike the Russian modeller. If someone want to retool the kit, sanding is very quick and simple. This kit has some errors and mistakes due to hand made mold, but it doesn't harm joy of assembly, and imaging how they designed it in 1960s is funny. 😄

I'm building the world's first plastic model made by British company IMA. Here are some interesting stories regarding the International Model Aircraft. https://frogpenguin.com/ http://archivesite.jetex.org/history/path_to_jetex.html Actually, this kit is a new tool launched in 1968, and the first kit was produced in 1936. I decided to build this kit to pay respect to the pioneers. Also, this kit is 'genuine kit' by original company unlike many russian kits on the Ebay. The good thing of this original kit is that molding line is very clear and sharp. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235047566-blackburn-shark-mkii-eastern-express-172/ This is an ambitious work by russian modeller and my reference page. https://karopka.ru/forum/forum259/topic23364/?PAGEN_1=10 While I was researching his walkthrough pages, I found that his russian kit after several decades is fairly damaged. Of course, it is not important if you sand and fix all of them. The downside of too old kit is that some parts were missing when I bought. I bought the cheapest Frog kit on the Ebay. I designed and printed the missing parts using 3D printer. Unlike the Russian' guy's master work, my goal is immitating the original 1936 work using the 1968 kit without heavy modification. I want to celebrate the first plastic model company in the world in my own way. https://www.vectis.co.uk/lot/frog-penguin-series-blackburn_563155 The painting and decals will be like this. In addition, I'll add some gimmicks such as 1930's neon sign like LED advertising on the top of case.

Yes. I got the image from T-shirts. https://www.google.com/search?q=OMG+IT'S+R2D2&tbm=isch

I made a simple model derived from funny internet meme. 😆 For those of who aren't happy. 😄 The kit is Metal earth's PE kit. Thanks for watching. 😉

wefalck // Eveything you said is new and cutting edge artwork. Thanks for introducing so many clues to make 'non edible' rice paper sail with waterproof coating. They are very interesting and promising project, but I'll concentrate on this heat transfer paper due to financial limit. I'll stick to the paper sail after I finish this homework. Allan // I found this heat activated spray bond. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007POWZPW I'm not sure it is made of acrylic, but it offers water and odor resistance.

https://www.amazon.com/Supreme-Collection-Extra-Sheets-White/dp/B00AMNAE4W/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=1200+count+bedding&sr=8-19 https://www.amazon.com/LBRO2M-Microfiber-Hypoallergenic-Breathable-Resistant/dp/B07X57KS65/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=1200+count+bedding&sr=8-17 I found 1500 and 1800 count bedding. I read an article that there are several ways to count numbers such as weaving method and yarn. I'm not sure they are really 1800 TC performance to compare with the most expensive 800 TC cotton fabric. I'll test the 1800 TC bedding. 😍

Ken // I heard that Fairchild republic is testing unmanned version of A-10C. This is a prototype body... in my imagination... Lou // I made same kit when I was a child, and it wasn't good in my memory. This is the first jet-plane kit I finished after becoming an adult. I'm happy to hear that it looks good this time.

I planned to use Vallejo polyurethane matt varnish. I'll apply the multi coat UV blocker. Thanks, Gregory!

About a month ago, I bought fine photo printer and water slide transfer paper. It really worked well, and its detail almost beat commercial decals. I used photoshop and work space was 4800 DPI. I'll test that the heat transfer paper can hold the 2400x9600 DPI inkejt output and tack well on to a cloth. The reason I want to print all of 'sail thing' at once is my laziness. 🤪 I always want the best quality with easy and cheap method that even children can follow. If it works, I don't need to tan or sew reefing lines on the cloth. Probably the last hurdle is long term durability... I don't think the coating will last for decades.

Thanks for the good point, Allan. I didn't know that the hightest TC cloth can't beat the non-woven cloth. I already bought some finest woven cloth to cut and sew, but I should reconsider a material for high scale models. That's impressive knowledge that printer can print on silk span directly. It seems much simple and better result. I'll check the instructions and booklet. Many thanks again, Allan. Thanks for understanding me, Gregory. My goal is 'real looking' as you said. On the other hand, I'm an inexperienced modeller, so I don't know which way is the best to achieve the most realistic sail. As an engineer, I prefer to immitate and scale down real sail, and it is an Allan's approach. Therefore, both of Gregory and Allan understands me well. My printer is Canon's 2400x9600 DPI inkjet photo printer, and it is not difficult to find and buy various fabrics in Seoul, South Korea. As a dyeing technique, heat transfer paper can be an alternative option for non-flat surface material. I'll continue to research both material and dyeing technique. That's really impressive, Roger. The stencil technique with the vacuum machine will be very sharp. I'm not sure I can buy or use the vacuum machine, but will research the interesting machine. Greatly thanks to all. All the discussions expanded my knowledge. It's time to research and test each of them. 🤩

Hello. Heller Pinta 1/75 is my new side project. While I was investigating ideas about replacing plastic stock sails to realistic fabric sails, I realized that the 'red cross' dye makes it more difficult. I thought about stencil with laser cut OHP film, but its result is quite blurred. After that, I began to search any kind of 'water slide decal' for fabric, and found it. This is very common heat transfer paper for T-shirt. In my case, I'll print red cross, hole marks, sewing marks, reefing lines, and even shadows and dirty dusts. The hole marks will help to set the sails evenly. Also, I'll transfer mirrored image to both sides with some trick. If it is good, flags can be better than stock paper flags. How do you think about the idea? I ordered the paper today.

Thanks, popeye. I didn't forget the stone building. It's on my workbench now. 🤩 I forgot the word 'warthog'. 😱 Thanks for watching, Old collingwood!

canute // I appreciate to hear you enjoyed. 👍 Hermann // One more secret. The airplane has no dashboard and ejection seat handle. I forgot to add them. The pilot who refused to ride is really wise person. 😂

Thanks very much, Egilman!

One of my favorite boar. Thanks for watching.