modeller_masa

Yes. Today, international e-commerce is very common in South Korea. I also bought another kits from eBay. However, kits that I can see, open and check, and buy immediately at hobby shop is only from AL. Accessibility is very important for new comers I think.

In South Korea, AL is a dominant brand of wooden model ship. It is the only common wooden ship in this country's market. Also, AL ship was my first ship. I couldn't understand why people in this forum hate AL. But after 3rd and 4th ship builds, I began to understand cruel truth about AL. I don't have many experience of the other company's kits, but now I admit and can say that AL's kit is not a good for noobies. I hope merchants will import better kits from Model shipways and etc. SK hobbiests need better kits for entry level.

The final planking took so much time. I'm not sure I will finish it tomorrow... Next. Because of twisted frame, I had to sand the boards a lot. Did AL really test before they sell this kit? Next. The circle is smaller than 5.00mm cherry stick. I need to sand the stick rather than enlarging the hole. The part is so small, that it can be easily broken. I used a small patch to protect wood stick. Sanded from 5.00mm to 4.60mm. I used an IKEA STOPP. 🙂 It can't protect everything, but can minimize damage. Alright. It's a bit tricky... Make sure the color is same. It is a problem of kit strips. Oops. Another mistake. And another mistake. I had to detach the upper A and cut it off. As a consequence.... next problem. 😂 But predicted problem. The reason I bought additional cherry woodsheets. Before I make the upper deck. I decided to cover frame. The AL manual and box art shows like this while the kit's wood is a plywood. Isn't it a fraud? Not surprising. Working... Done. It looks like... The cherry color means that I didn't do planking properly. The hull is slightly narrow than the manual, or AL didn't test their kit before making. Sanded them all. Making the last and final plank... More tricky. And the other side. Done. But I don't think so. I can't afford to accept this quality. I removed the final plank, and will make another one tomorrow. I may need to use soldering machine and water to bend the end of plank. I already spent too much time for this tiny boat, and making an industrial waste is not I intended. Is this really a kit for beginners? I can't recommend this kit to new comers.

I decided to use dewaxed shelloc sealcoat. The wood conditioner is useful as primer. Silon tea color. I spooned too much. Only one spoon is ok for this small ship. I hope it lasts until I finish the next parts. The color didn't change much, but the shelloc makes wood shiny which is considered as taboo in model world. Therefore, I slightly sand them with 1200 sandpaper. It's been an year I used air brush. I almost forgot how to use it... Masking is mandatory. Although it can't block all the paints, we have a sander. I used 4ml white lacquer and 8ml lacquer which is considered too thin. I used matt clear varnish a little bit after that. Nice. I should have paid attention when I did planking... Matt coating makes model beautiful. Because the masking tape couldn't block all the air brush, I'll sand them later. Because the coating is too weak, I used masking tape the hull. It will be problematic, but ok for a few days. I'll finish the ship tomorrow or the day after tomorrow.

Bought 1.00 and 1.60 wood veneers. I didn't have a tracing paper, so I used 3M scotch magic tape. Cut and made shapes. Nice. It works. Drew lines on wood veneer. Cutting 1.60mm wood veneer is very easy. I removed 9th and 8th strips I installed. Compared with stock strip. The difference mean that I had to force to attach it properly. No resistance, no force, happy planking! Tremendous. I did't fix the 'square' line because the frame is problem. Not easy to fix all of them... Next is the last plank strip. Gorgeous. Meanwhile, the manual said me to sand like this... What?! Oh, really? After some frustration, I overcomed it by this sanding method. The next is keels. I sanded them with this sanding bit. It is relatively weak, so that doesn't bite wood pieces. Another challenge. I couldn't find a standing point because I cut off all of bottom of keel. I dug the strips slightly to open a stripes of plywood. The reason we use plywood for frames. Made 1.0mm holes on the center of keel. Inserted 1.0mm brass wire. It works. Already tight enough without glue. Looks like a helmet of the legion, don't you? Keel is done. Before I paint it, I have to cover my mistakes and crevasses. The wood filler is the cheapest one. The color is not important for me because I'll paint them. Rubbed the wood filler all the body. I spent 2 hours to polish the wood fillers! How stupid! Oopsy. There is one mini crevasse. In this case, I scrapped overflowed filler wisely. I sanded all the body with 800 paper sander. The next is painting time.

The 4-axis CNC starts from $1,000 on Aliexpress. 5-axis CNC costs more than $2,000 which is not beyond the horizon. The 'formal' all in one 5-axis CNC from pocket NC in USA costs around $6,000.

Thank you for reading. That's what I expected when I joined this community.

I did same thing on the red one. I gave up to fix the blue one because... I don't have an appropriate basswood sheet. I also thought about partial repair, but my varnish showed very different colors as I worried. I need full size wood sheet. Go back to a planking... After the 3rd plank, the rubber band method made a huge problem. The band forced the plank to bottom side. It hurt level of complition. Therefore, I made a simple jig using 3mm MDF. Nice. Saved a lot of time and efforts. (about 2~3 times) I was so fun that I didn't realized some serious mistakes... From the 6 to 8 planks, The rubber band jig didn't help that much. I began to use quick release clamp which is my favorite. Also, because of my mistakes on plank 3~5, I began to feel a resistance slightly from here. The bad feeling rose quickly as I advanced to next planks. Here is the final result from 1st to 8th planks. As you see, planking line is not good. Not good. I didn't pay attention to the line because of fun of making jig. Front. I tried to make it a bisymmetry. Rear. I failed. Also, due to a huge resistance between plank 6~8, the work was so hard that I had to use quick release clamp tightly. It hurt planking line. When I felt huge resistance on planking, it always resulted catastrophic ending. Should I remove the planks and do it again? It is really irritating. Finally, when I attached the 9th plank, which is thicker than the others, (1.00 -> 1.50mm) It happened. Because of huge twist force, the strip broke as I clamped them. I removed it, and cleaned glue gums. I'll buy some basswood sheets tomorrow. I'll make my own warped strip from it.

It's done. Testing strip band using masking tapes. I hope a planking will go like this... Attaching 2nd planks. Clamping planks is not easy for this ship. Takes much time for each plank. Clamping the edge. Bisymmetry ! There are some gaps between planks. Expected from design. No mercy. I'll fill the gaps with wood putty. Sanded the edge because the thickness makes planking harder. (I didn't cut anything from 7.00mm strip.) The blue one is hided, but red one will be exposed. No glue gums and no tool scratches for red one. Yes nuclear waste for blue one. By the way, I found that the front frame will be exposed. The laser burn looks ugly. Also, the wood is plywood which shows stripes. I don't want to show it. Parts of used planks. Enough length. To sand a thin part, use two sand papers. It offers enough grip. To cover the burn, 0.50mm is enough. Not bad. huh?

After tons of inspections, I decided to... remove the... Bottom of the keel !! The manual did it. I did it. Nobody can't blame me. 😁 Gringing, grinding, and griding... Attaching a garboard. Garboards. After the garboard, I re-confirmed that each side will have 8 planks. The 1st is garboard, and the 8th plank is thicker than the other. However, I found that errors from the sheet. In case of frame 7, (53-4-5)/ 6 = 7.3mm, which needs strips bigger than 7.00m from a kit. It's nonsense. I rechecked everything on the manual, and found that each side has 9 planks. The manual doesn't say that. Only part counts say that. How unkindness... Here is corrected plank sheet. Before drawing marks, I printed out ruler paper with powerpoint. Laser printer give me a sharpest result. I would say that this is the best way to count 0.1mm scale. I drew marks on each planks using this ruler paper.

I posted it. Thank you. 😄

Because I'm not an English speaker, I apologize for not explaining every pictures. I hope my build log help new comers. Bought it to get a rest. Good packaging, but... The keel twisted just after a week. I couldn't let it anymore. Don't open sealing before you are ready. It's sanding time. Time to battle with myself. Made some jig for exact vertical sanding. Very common technic. Found significant differences. Already banned from NAVSEA museum guideline. Fixed, but it's my best. Sanding before cutting is the best way. I didn't know which side is front or not. Veritas miniature blockplane is my best friend. Much accurate than sander. My second mistake. The part 9 must be sticked together with the side of part 7, not the bottom of it. Museum curator will say that"Your skill is so fledging that even dead AL will be revived!" Finally found the mistake, but I couldn't accept my mistake and didn't fix it... Huge resistance required many clamps. Because the parts' gluing was too week, I used a gorilla glue instead of fixing all of them. How bad... Found the wood bar from plastic case. Used degraded replica of Proxxon FET table saw from Japan. Don't buy it. It is $100 cheaper than FET, but the function is disappointing. Oops. Third mistake. I thought 1.40mm is enough, but it was too big for it. Arround 0.50mm is good. As you know, kit's wood strips are not enough for museum quality. Different colors, width, thickness, and grains. To make a same width, I had to sand the wood bar. I temporally attached the straight guide to frames. The fence made work easier. One of the most easiest part. And, finally encountered the second mistake. It is too narrow to stick the 8mm strip! I had to push the side strips to make an enough space. Too late. Closed my eyes and made a best effort to cover my mistake, but the defect is already making model looks bad... ouch. It's planking time! Measured them all, and the balance is not bad. 1mm differences are within an error. I don't need two planking sheet for portside and starboard.

I thought the forum is very formal place. I'll do it by your encouragement.

Yeah, I've already searched, and the few logs didn't help me. I think people in this experts' community doesn't make the 'easy' ships frequently. Also, because of my pooor english skill, opening build log is too much pain for me. 😂 I don't like grammar quiz... I have a a plan to post all of the pictures only when it's done. The La Recouvrance is from french company, 'Soclaine'. http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:Acoc68c58GsJ:www.soclaine.com/patrimoine/25-la-recouvrance-3249916016003.html+&cd=13&hl=ko&ct=clnk&gl=kr I temporally holded it for a week, and I'm making the Providence by Artesania Latina (#ref 19018). Sorry about confusing text.

These are my mere assumption. I can't wait to go. I'll post a result when everything is done.

Hello. I'm making a new ship to refresh myself. My current build is la recouvrance from Soclaine which is 80cm long midlde size ship. I've already spend half year for it. This is a little ship, so it won't take more than a week. By the way, I found an issue from the kit's manual. The keel looks bisymmetry, but actually not. Unfortunately, the manual doesn't explain which side is a font and rear. Here are the part numbers. The wood is 4.00mm birch plywood. I measured them all, and confirmed that the vertical keel has front and rear side. The problem is I don't know which side is front. I also double checked the next sections of manual, and confirmed that this is not an error, but scheduled design by Artesania. The problem is that the manual doesn't explain which side is a front! In addition, there are no clues to find a front and rear side on the other sections of manual in my opinion. As you know that the Artesania went bankrupcy, I can't find a place to ask this question. Could you help me to find a correct way? Even it is a small ship, this difference will affect mast and riggings considerably in my thought.

I made this method when I tried to make a mast with 'weak woods' such as padauk. Also, my padauk wood's grain was so bad for making wood stick. After many trials and errors, I choose to keep the padauk rather than use very common birch wood stick because of its beautiful color. People consume wood pretty much quickly. I know we cannot buy 'real Mahogany' which used widely 50 years ago. Because of too much demands on mahogany and danger of extinction, lumbering of it is strictly banned by nations' laws. After that, people began to find another 'mahogany', and merchants are selling fake mahoganys like an indonesian mahogany. In addition, it is already difficult to find Campo woods from Australia after the big wildfire. Therefore, I would say that wood market has 'trend' by consumption rate. I think there are no guarantee we can buy same wood in the near future. (Of course, birch and walnut will be long enough while pine wood is encountering threat of critical vermin issue.) Furthermore, I want to use various woods regardless tensile strength. Padauk is one of an alternatives of mahogany, and I want to use the color because of the similarity. In conclusion, I want to use any kind of woods. I have a plan of very pinky ship with fancy sail for a little girl. Someone may think wood stain is enough, but making a new way is more funny when everybody say no. By the way, it is shame that a national museum in my country doesn't fix the cutty sark. I think a creator of the ship might do a mistake on rigging. I have more pictures of broken ships in the museum, but I won't upload them due to a same reason. (Added) Thanks to the modern science, we have various kind of steels. Some steel offers better chemical durability. I think anything is ok while the model looks like a wooden made ship.

I'm an engineer. It is very difficult to understand art for me. I choose wooden model ship because of beautility like an airplane. I believe that good engineers make things better without doing too obvious.

You're right. I didn't want to underestimate other people's value and efforts. My goal is keeping what I made in a good shape until I get soil in my eyes. It may be a reason I felt kind of uncomfortable when I read museum guidelines. Between creativity and realistic limits, my purpose tends to be more adventurous, but I don't think my idea will not change in the future. Maybe more experiences will give me a higher viewpoint.

You give me a lot of inspirations. I may not use or use only piece of epoxy resin to hold metal stick in wood. Also, some gaps what you implied may increase lifetime significantly longer than filling CA glue. I have made some furnitures like tables, so I found similarities from what you said and technics to extend durability of furniture.

Thank you for the information. I thought there were no favorite scales. After I translated the museum guideline, I realized that my goal is not making a realistic model, but a beautiful, gorgeous, and looking good model. I bought some serious books about wood preservation, and will dig on the metal-wood gluing, but my priority interest is slightly different from your interests like wood grains and non-painting surfaces. :-) I wish people share their knowhows in various perspectives.

Thank you for good information! 'Museum quality guidelines' sounds extremely beautiful. Never heard about it. It will be an awesome guideline for SK modellers when I translate it to Korean. I think a few decades of life time is enough reason to build model ships. Like our(hm! actually your) ancestors made same wooden model ship hundreds years ago and we refer their works when we build, our sons and grand sons will look up our works.

In the next post, I'll upload the cheapest and easiest way to make a wood stick. I'm tired of turning lathe. (updated) Oops. I found significant issue from the method. I give up to post it. By the way, you can find tons of ways to make dowel=mast from Youtube.

Good brainstroming. I think tungsten rod with epoxy coated tank canon will be good. I like your creativity.

I agree that. That's what I'm worrying the most because I don't have any clues to measure the destructive effect. Hm... I remember that I saw some books regarding conservation of wooden cultural properties at a Maritime library. I'll check the books and add more theoretical evidences as much as possible. It will be more rational than a test I planned at first. (I planned to freeze and melt metal cored masts several times using refrigerator.) By the way, we already use lots of metal parts such as rings to decorate masts or to fix horizontal masts. I guess that 'inner' metal parts are less destructive than 'outer' parts because metal is more stable than wood. There may be a reason that nobody used metal cored wood sticks in hundreds years of wooden model history. It seems very interesting, and I want to figure out the reason if your worry is correct.