ZyXuz

Day 29 to 30

Finally my long waited LEDs have arrived, here it is!!!
 

LED Earrings
 
They are actually LED earrings, and I just love the colour of the light!! I chose to use earrings as my cabin's lighting because they are small, easy to switch on/off, and most importantly I can save a lot of my time on wiring! I think it's really practical on smaller ship or cabin like my Race Horse, and cost effective. They cost me only USD$3.30!
 
Before I even purchase the LED earrings, I've already thought of using barrels to 'hide' the battery. I've also added barrel holder, as shown:

Barrel Holder
 
I was sitting on my working place, and staring at my ship, thinking a way to switch on the light from the deck.. and I've finally came up with this..


'Holder Pin' to Help Switching on from Deck
 
I added a 'holder pin' that will pin through a barrel on the poop deck,  so that it can be switched on by just moving the barrel. Like this: 

Pin Through Poop Deck
 
The barrel holder is not glued to the deck, so that it can move freely to switch on the LED. And a hole is drilled on a barrel to hold the pin.

Hole to Hold Pin

Push the pin in, and they are a switch. This whole thing can be taken out anytime, so that one day when the battery dries off they are still changeable. Only if the LED gone, then it is gone.


Camouflage Switch

Meanwhile, the LED is set through the sash of the door in the cabin, and glued to hold its position tight. 


Big Diamond in the Cabin

A secure pin is also added to 'lock' the LED still.


Earring Pin Through the Sash of the Door
 
So, it's how it looks like now
OK, I know the capstan and the barrels are too close together But there's no way I can put my switch elsewhere.


Poop Deck Full Fittings

Here's the result when the light is on. Yea, the switch is so sensitive until it seems like the barrels are not even moved! 


Light On

-Cont'-

-Cont'-
 
After the poop deck is done, I can finally glue everything on deck in place. Since I took out my bombard shots for photo shooting last time and did not seal them back, they have already rusted.

To solve it, I 're-blacken' them using my metal blackener. Surprisingly, it gave a better result! The surface became rougher, instead of shiny looks before! 


Bombard Shot After Re-blackening
 
To give a darker view, I coated with a layer of tyre shine.
 

Coated with Tyre Shine

And when I'm too bored...   
My 'Bomb-bell-shots Droid'... weirdo name.. LOL


'Bomb-bell-shots Droid'

Pin racks are on too.


Pin Racks On
 
Leftover shots stacked up. 

Leftover Shots Stacked Up
 
Well, the manual doesn't design ladders to the poop deck from the quarter, but I think it's better to have. Since I don't have enough pre-cut ladder left, I glued the other side directly on the bulwark. Like this: 


2 Ladders Added 
 
Now, with all the tritium vials left unused, I really have to come up with more ideas to utilise them! Since I've 2 bigger ones (1.5mm * 12mm), I will use one of them as poop deck lamp.

Using back the same technique as I did last time on smaller lamps, I've came up with this. 


Poop Lamp Design
 
And sprayed it to gold colour.
 

Completed Lamp

In position. 
Here's a good comparison on the brightness of a normal LED light and tritium vial. In light presence condition, you just can't see the tritium light. It's just a luminant body after all.


Lamp In Position


Stern View

Anyway, it looks good at night! And for 25 years!! 

 
 
-End of Day 30-

Day 29 to 30

Finally my long waited LEDs have arrived, here it is!!!
 

LED Earrings
 
They are actually LED earrings, and I just love the colour of the light!! I chose to use earrings as my cabin's lighting because they are small, easy to switch on/off, and most importantly I can save a lot of my time on wiring! I think it's really practical on smaller ship or cabin like my Race Horse, and cost effective. They cost me only USD$3.30!
 
Before I even purchase the LED earrings, I've already thought of using barrels to 'hide' the battery. I've also added barrel holder, as shown:

Barrel Holder
 
I was sitting on my working place, and staring at my ship, thinking a way to switch on the light from the deck.. and I've finally came up with this..


'Holder Pin' to Help Switching on from Deck
 
I added a 'holder pin' that will pin through a barrel on the poop deck,  so that it can be switched on by just moving the barrel. Like this: 

Pin Through Poop Deck
 
The barrel holder is not glued to the deck, so that it can move freely to switch on the LED. And a hole is drilled on a barrel to hold the pin.

Hole to Hold Pin

Push the pin in, and they are a switch. This whole thing can be taken out anytime, so that one day when the battery dries off they are still changeable. Only if the LED gone, then it is gone.


Camouflage Switch

Meanwhile, the LED is set through the sash of the door in the cabin, and glued to hold its position tight. 


Big Diamond in the Cabin

A secure pin is also added to 'lock' the LED still.


Earring Pin Through the Sash of the Door
 
So, it's how it looks like now
OK, I know the capstan and the barrels are too close together But there's no way I can put my switch elsewhere.


Poop Deck Full Fittings

Here's the result when the light is on. Yea, the switch is so sensitive until it seems like the barrels are not even moved! 


Light On

-Cont'-

-Cont'-
 
After the poop deck is done, I can finally glue everything on deck in place. Since I took out my bombard shots for photo shooting last time and did not seal them back, they have already rusted.

To solve it, I 're-blacken' them using my metal blackener. Surprisingly, it gave a better result! The surface became rougher, instead of shiny looks before! 


Bombard Shot After Re-blackening
 
To give a darker view, I coated with a layer of tyre shine.
 

Coated with Tyre Shine

And when I'm too bored...   
My 'Bomb-bell-shots Droid'... weirdo name.. LOL


'Bomb-bell-shots Droid'

Pin racks are on too.


Pin Racks On
 
Leftover shots stacked up. 

Leftover Shots Stacked Up
 
Well, the manual doesn't design ladders to the poop deck from the quarter, but I think it's better to have. Since I don't have enough pre-cut ladder left, I glued the other side directly on the bulwark. Like this: 


2 Ladders Added 
 
Now, with all the tritium vials left unused, I really have to come up with more ideas to utilise them! Since I've 2 bigger ones (1.5mm * 12mm), I will use one of them as poop deck lamp.

Using back the same technique as I did last time on smaller lamps, I've came up with this. 


Poop Lamp Design
 
And sprayed it to gold colour.
 

Completed Lamp

In position. 
Here's a good comparison on the brightness of a normal LED light and tritium vial. In light presence condition, you just can't see the tritium light. It's just a luminant body after all.


Lamp In Position


Stern View

Anyway, it looks good at night! And for 25 years!! 

 
 
-End of Day 30-

Hello Zyxuz,
 
i just hooked up with your building log again after some time and i must say your progress is stunning. Very clean planking, very nice painting of the hull and the LEDs spend a really natural light. Cant wait to see photos of your fully rigged Race Horse next to the cannons of Fort Cornwallis in the sunset......;-) 

yea.. it's already glued, and I've just tried moving it but seems like it's holding its position real tight.. i'm afraid it might 'wreck' my deck planking up if more force applied!
Anyway, I've tied the bowsprit to my chair foot toward the starboard..
I'll leave it overnight, and hope for magic happens
 
Thanks anyway!

Almost two weeks after ordering my LEDs, they haven't arrived... I really have to start working other part without my poop deck on..
 
Anyway, I've done all the fitting around the hull, including bowsprit!
 
Here they are

Port view of my Race Horse currently..
 

Closer view on the deadeyes and companion ways..
The companion way as instructed in the kit manual is actually 4 at one side, but since I've a tight distance between wales, so I'll need to reduce them to 3.. This also cause the deadeye strops angled almost 90 degree to the hull =.=" you can see the difference between the main channel and mizzen channel..
 

View from stern
My nightmare just doesn't stop.. The bowsprit is not as straight as it should be
I was planning to rework on the rigging, but then I think that maybe it can be adjusted by the flying jib stay? Any comment?
 

View from Bow

I read your build log from the first page, and I must say she is just neat and nice!! especially the cannons and barrels details... 
BRAVO!! Can't wait to see you to finish this ship!!
 
Cheers!

what a superb planking job!!! I wish I could do the same!!
well done!

ZyXux, 
 
Im glad you found the bell, a ship needs her bell, and I must say the lighting is way too cool....
 
Cheers,
Tim

Zyxuz,
 
I just caught up with your log.  There's some very nice work going on here.  The wales and lighting are making this ship special.  Very impressive build.

your riggings work is neat!
bravo!!

wow! she is neat!
The unicorn had been in my list for a while!! (to welcome the year of horse in Chinese Zodiac )
your build log is certainly my good reference!

Hello ZyXuz,
 
I had the same problem, but on the innerside of the bulwarks. I didn't removed the dust andused too much glue, which I didn't sand correctly. And I didn't use any wood conditioner.
 
Wood dust from sanding will cause problems if it's not removed from the surface before staining. Dry rags or brushes aren't the most effective tools for removing dust. Instead, use a tack cloth, a sticky piece of cheesecloth made especially for this purpose. Wipe the folded tack cloth across the wood to remove dust. As each side becomes saturated with dust, refold the cloth to expose a fresh surface. Tack cloths are available at hardware stores.
 
Did you use any wood conditioner? A number of soft woods aren't conducive to stained finishes. To help even out the color when working with new, bare woods such as pine, fir, maple and birch, try using a pre-stain wood conditioner. These conditioners are designed to penetrate into the wood and allow the stain to absorb more evenly when it is applied later.
 
Sometimes it is also necessary to degrease the wood before you put any finish on it.
Degreasing the wood also removes the dust. What to use for degreasing depends on the sort of wood you are using.
 
I don't know if it is necessary or advisable to sand the hull again and start over. I really don't know what the effect from sanding the hull again will be. You need an experts advise on this. Either from a member of this forum or from your local hobby or hardware store.
 
Please also look for tips on this forum. you may even ask your question there.
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/21-painting-finishing-and-weathering-products-and-techniques/
 
I'm sorry I can't solve your problem instantly, but I do hope you will get an answer soon.
 
Good luck and take care,
 
Anja

ZyXuz,
 
I have the same kit, I purchased it five years ago from Model Expo.  It currently is about number four on my build list.   I plan to follow your build in order to get important building tipf for future use.  I look forward to following your build, keep up the nice work!
 
Cheers,
Tim

Day 4
  As mentioned in the previous day, the cabin sits between bulkhead #10 and #11 where only very limited space for me to design it. I drew plan to make sure everything sits right: Draft on Captain's Cabin   So, I've only 49mm * 25mm of space for me to include everything into the cabin!!! This is going to be very challenging!!   I started with the table first. Since I still kept all leftover wood pieces of my Black Pearl making, it makes my work easier...  No big issue on making the table.. around 20mm * 8mm. And then, the chair.. The Chair, Tiniest Among All   Making the chair is the HARDEST part!!!   To make sure all these furnitures looks in ratio, the chair's seat needs to be only at 4mm * 4mm, and its legs at 1mm * 1mm!! The tiniest wood strips I have is only 1mm * 2mm, in which I'll have to cut them in two!! It took me around 30 minutes to complete this, with few breaking wood strips..   The Map! 'Map' Dip with Coffee to Give Vintage Effect   I've also made a map (ok, just a paper.. ) to fill the table. In order to give it a vintage effect, I added some flavours (IPOH White Coffee) on it I canceled my cabinet planning, and replaced it with a mirror. This idea came out when I was eating snack for my breakfast, which the inside of plastic bag is a good reflective body. Mirror with Stands Using Previous Ship's Material   The stands are the leftover pinrail material from the Black Pearl, which I think suitable for this too.    To fill up the big empty space on the port side, I added another pole hanger. It is made by using one copper nail as its pole, and copper rings as the hangers. It really took me sometimes to glue the hangers on the pole... Pole Hanger Beside the Table   For the bed.. Too sad that I've forgotten to take photo on its progress.. It's done by using a 4mm thick wood piece, and few small pieces to tissue papers. I put a folded tissue beneath first, to make a 'bulge' effect, and then only 'wrapped' the whole thing up as a bed sheet.  For the pillow, I cut out a long 'tissue-strip' and wrap it up at one end of a wood strip. Glued it, and then cut off the end of the strip. Captain's Cabin As Seen to Stern Side   Take a close look, and you'll see a pen in a container on the table!! :lol:  The container is made by a spanker bead from my Black Pearl; while the pen is made by a refill of mechanical pencil! Take a clear look again!!! YES, I made another chair to fill up the space!!!    Now left only a door to complete..    It's done by using the removed part from the half deck.. I added planks on it, and drilled a hole as sash of door, and then a nail as door knob! Door to Captain's Cabin   So, it's how it looks like now!!! ^^ The Captain's Cabin   I can finally proceed to the most fun part of ship modelling... PLANKING!! - End of Day 4 -  

You'll find that most ships have a "sheer", where the deck is lower in the middle compared with the fore and aft, a long sweeping curve, and a "camber", where the deck is higher in the middle than at the sides. Think banana.
 
You'll need to clamp/pin/weight the false deck down to the bulkheads, providing they're correctly shaped from the factory (look at the plan's drawings) rather than shimming them up to the deck.